In the last few decades, New York’s Taiwanese restaurant scene has grown from a niche catering primarily to immigrants looking for a slice of home, to a vibrant, innovative food culture with its best known dishes that have become familiar well beyond the Taiwanese community.
Taiwanese cuisine is known for its crossroads nature, an amalgam of culinary traditions from Hakka, Indigenous, Fujianese, Japanese, and post-war Mainland Chinese. While certain food and flavor profiles — salty sweet and peppered, fermented, braised — are most closely associated with this island’s cooking, today’s Taiwanese food fans can experience an incredible breadth of offerings from authentic takes on braised beef noodle soups and stuffed rice rolls (fan tuan) to mash-ups like milk bun fried chicken and numbing spice pastrami fried rice, that span regional cuisine from the northern tip of Taipei down to southern Tainan.
A tour through the city’s Taiwanese restaurants is to participate in the arc of an immigrant diaspora, from the earliest Taiwanese arrivals to Chinatown, to the generation of Taiwanese-Americans paying homage and reimagining the foods of their childhood — and now, new transnational immigrants, fluent in West and East, finding their own language.
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