Decorated like a movie theater, with a lobby in front and screening room in back, Potluck Club is a hyper-modern restaurant that remakes Cantonese food with spins by the next generation. A salt-and-pepper chicken arrives with scallion biscuits standing in for scallion pancakes; while rock shrimp, candied walnuts, and caulilini, come smothered in mayo. Exploring the menu is downright fun.

Cantonese food has been enjoying a resurgence lately and Green Garden Village is a prime example. A lush display of ducks and other cured meats hangs in the window, as well as an impressive seafood selection, though standards like wonton soup (in deconstructed form) and beef chow fun hold their own. It’s also a great place for dim sum, especially rice noodle rolls.

Golden Steamer has been a staple in Manhattan’s Chinatown since 2009. The bakery, a one-room operation on Mott Street, is popular in the area (and online) for its fluffy steamed buns filled with a variety of meats and custards, including barbecued pork, Chinese sausage, red bean, pumpkin, and salted egg yolk. A second location appeared not long ago around the corner at 210 Grand Street.

Chinatown’s newest noodle and dumpling spot is heralded by a bright red awning, right over the Grand Street station on the D and B trains. The interior is quite comfortable, done up to look like a forest, with a Buddha peeping out of a knot in the tree. Stir fried udon, soups, and soup dumpling are specialties, encompassing Shanghai and Taiwanese standards, and half the menu is devoted to bubble teas and related beverages.

Yi Ji Shi Mo is one of the neighborhood’s top purveyors of cheung fun, the springy rice noodles that can be rolled up with a variety of fillings. One of the most popular orders is the rice roll with shrimp, pork, and cilantro, although they can be modified with a variety of ingredients and sauces, including hoisin sauce, peanut sauce, and Sriracha. An aluminum container’s worth of them starts at around $3. Cash only.

The decades-old institution remains one of Chinatown’s top bakeries, a place for ultra-affordable Chinese pastries. Hot dog scallion buns are always a smart move, as are the freshly made onigiri rice balls. But the chief draw is a warm egg tart (dan tat), filled with custard dense with the richness of egg yolks and with the top bruleed for a Macao-inspired treat. Also, look out for the ham-and-omelet breakfast sandwich.

This Fujianese mini-chain with branches in Sunset Park and Flushing concentrates on homestyle cooking, with oodles of soups, stews, stir fries, and congees presented “in casserole” as the menu describes them. There are lots of smaller dishes, too, including pork tongue, pickled vegetable soup, and Shaxian peanut noodles, and you don’t have to look far on the menu to find variety meats.

Shu Jiao Fu Zhou has perfected the peanut noodle. For $3, the restaurant heaps a large portion of rice noodles onto a disposable plate with peanut sauce. It’s one of the most affordable meals in Chinatown, and videos of the dish have turned this small, cash-only establishment into a social media sensation. The pork and chive dumplings are good, too.

Wendy Lian and Ren Fu Li’s gem of a Forsyth Street restaurant is a temple to a spectacular dish: big tray spicy chicken (da pan ji). The preparation involves dousing thick, hand-pulled noodles in a stew of chicken, garlic, potatoes, cumin, chiles, and star anise. With the capacity to feed at least two, the feast ranks as one of the city’s best large-format deals. Also go for a pork pancake, where stewed pork comes in sandwich form as a must-get appetizer. Spicy Village is BYOB.

Uncle Lou is one of several restaurants remaking Cantonese food in Chinatown, taking traditional recipes and kicking them up a notch — served on big round tables with turntables in the middle for easy sharing. Chef’s specials are called lo wah kiu (“the old timers”) and include steak cooked with chives, vegetarian tofu skin wraps, and homestyle chenpi duck, with an unusual sun-dried mandarin-orange-peel sauce.

The city’s premier Teochew restaurant has occupied a prominent storefront on Bayard since 1990, serving Chinese food with Southeast Asian flair. There’s a version of pho using pork instead of beef, notable deep-fried shrimp rolls, and a fish noodle soup in which the noodles are actually made of fish. But flagship of the fleet is “country style duck,” in which the quacker is braised rather than roasted, and quite a contrast to the other ducks of Chinatown.

Hopefully, this Malaysian spot represents the resurgence of the cuisine in Chinatown, where there was once a half-dozen such restaurants radiating from the corner of Allen and Grand. The compact dining room is casual and stylish, and jellied ices are a focus, including the wonderful black jello snow ice. The oyster omelet is also worth trying.

Follow a visit to any of the restaurants on this list with dessert at this petite ice cream shop that’s one of New York’s oldest and most distinguished. Specialty flavors like green tea, black sesame, lychee, and a highly nutty zen butter — that’s peanut butter ice cream with toasted sesame seeds — shouldn’t be missed. Any flavor can be packed in a pint and taken home.

Great N.Y. Noodletown is one of Manhattan Chinatown’s classic restaurants. It has been open since 1981, and it found some notoriety outside of New York after appearing in an episode of the Layover, hosted by Anthony Bourdain. Its roast meats are a must-order — duck, char siu, and chicken can be acquired over a plate of rice, together or separately, for about $10 — and we recommend the wonton noodle soup. Cash only.

House of Joy is one of the largest dim sum parlors in Manhattan’s Chinatown, and one of the only restaurants in the area that still delivers its dim sum on carts. Grab a number from the host at the front and wait patiently to be called — which, if you don’t arrive before 11 a.m. on weekends, might be an hour or more. Once inside, plates of rice noodles, pineapple buns, pea shoots, and chicken feet cost a few dollars each, and there’s a full menu of larger meat and seafood dishes.

Wonton Noodle Garden, which closed after four decades, was revived as an offshoot of Mei Lai Wah earlier this summer. The expanded menu has splendid wonton noodle soup with a wealth of big dumplings, Hong Kong-style wheat noodles, and the surprise addition of gluey pig feet, which fortify the broth immeasurably and make for some great chewing. Unusual for Chinatown, a bar serves draft beer in the back.

Founded in 1938, Wo Hop is the second oldest restaurant in Chinatown. The old-guard Cantonese American menu remains largely intact. This is one of the only restaurants in Chinatown where you can still find chop suey. The walls of the subterranean space are lined with snapshots of patrons, including celebrities.

Though there’s plenty to choose from, most fans of Taiwan Pork Chop House seem to sit down for one of the two specialties of the house, offered with abundant quantities of rice and pickled mustard greens. It can be a difficult decision to choose: the epic, thin-cut pork chops with a sweet glaze, or the bulbous chicken leg, briny and delicious. Both are equally good. Closed Tuesdays.

Head to this Hong Kong-style restaurant for Cantonese barbecued meats like duck served over rice, noodle stir-fries like beef chow fun, and “super-wonderful” rice noodle rolls. The restaurant opens at 8 a.m.; drop by for a bowl of congee in the morning, or its fragrant rice casseroles served in clay pots.

M Star is one of a new crop of Hong Kong-style cafes to open in NYC. As with the cuisine of New York City, the menu incorporates global influences. What that means in practice is lots of noodles, egg breakfasts, Spam, hot dogs, fish balls and beef balls, and plenty of other casual food skewed toward breakfast.

Carol’s Bun is a modest sort of place, a bastion of homestyle Cantonese food since the mid-1990s. All its offerings line up on a steam table; you can make any combination of dishes into your own personalized assortment. Dumplings are available, too, prepared to order. A modest amount of seating is found outside. Softshell crab, fried pig intestines, green beans sauteed with garlic, and small fish fried or braised are favorites.