Atlanta

Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee, courtesy of Gigi’s

The RundownAtlanta

Gigi’s in Candler Park is Back, And It’s Better Than Ever

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Having just celebrated its two-year anniversary in Candler Park, Gigi’s Italian Kitchen recently underwent a renovation and has expanded its cozy, winsome, New York-style space. It’s won plaudits and a legion of fans for serving Georgia produce through an Italian-American lens, combining tradition and familiarity with creativity and wit.

In many ways, Gigi’s is unlike any other restaurant in the city of Atlanta. Small and dimly-lit, it’s an establishment that has always felt warm, friendly, and inviting — so much so that it’s amassed a collection of devoted neighborhood regulars who don’t mind waiting for a table, no matter how long that takes.

But now, after having extended to the space next door (the two sides connect via a hallway), Gigi’s has doubled its original capacity with five new tables plus a drink rail and waiting area, which will allow for shorter wait times, more reservations available nightly, and more diners having the opportunity to enjoy everything the restaurant has to offer. Here’s what to expect.

Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee, courtesy of Gigi’s
Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee, courtesy of Gigi’s

There’s More Room to Breathe in The Dining Room.

When it comes to the interior, chef-owners Jacob Armando and Eric Brooks have taken design choices into their own hands — there are no big-name, expensive design firms here. From vintage purchases and antique shopping to sourcing from estate sales and even acquiring some pieces from the Rusty Nail (a legendary Buford Highway dive bar that closed after nearly five decades in business), walking into the revitalized dining room still offers the familiarity of stepping into your best friend’s family’s home.

In this new iteration, Gigi’s has graduated from red checkered tablecloths to chocolate-checked ones, with beautiful new wooden floors, and a gorgeous new bathroom to boot. Hand-painted signs come courtesy of Nathan Tavel, a local artist born and raised in Atlanta. “We’re still working with the same amount of kitchen and bar space,” Armando says, “but we have a few ideas to enhance the dining experience as we get our bearings…time will tell.”

Photo courtesy of Gigi’s
Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee, courtesy of Gigi’s

Local Produce Brings a New Lens to The Menu.

Local produce drives the seasonal menu at Gigi’s, and the restaurant rotates seven or so of its nine dishes every month-and-change, sometimes sooner, based on what local farms have to offer. “Oftentimes, Eric and I will have an idea for a new dish we bring to the table, maybe something we had dining out or made at home, and then we look at farm lists to see how we could put our spin on it to highlight something we can get our hands on,” Armando tells us.

And while most of the ingredients and dishes shift regularly, a couple of favorites remain the same week after week. There’s always a salad of some sort, a pasta, a tartare and/or a crudo – but never lasagna. Then there’s the caviar and polenta, for example, with creme fraiche, dill, trout roe, and Sturgeon caviar — it’s a $20 staple that’s adored by all. For dessert, you’ll consistently see the ‘world famous’ tiramisu (self-proclaimed “best in town,” we do not disagree) and a seasonal wildcard like coconut creamsicle sorbetto, which incorporates winter citrus in the form of orange-vanilla sorbet and citrus curd – perfect for those long winter nights as colder weather sets in.

Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee, courtesy of Gigi’s
Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee, courtesy of Gigi’s

Let’s Talk About Drinks.

Like the food menu, the wine and beer selection remains tight — house red and white by the glass or carafe — and out of six cocktails, two are staples and the rest rotate seasonally. In the spring, you can expect spritzes while fall brings boozier options. Combining gin, dry vermouth, and olive brine, the classic Dirty GiGi is always on, and the restaurant’s regulars go crazy for it.

The restaurant’s assortment of amari comes from Italy, France, Oregon, and Decatur (the locally loved Murrell’s Row Eno Amaro is distilled in a warehouse just 10 minutes down the road), and for now, you can even get Antique Pelinkovac, a premium herbal liqueur from Croatia.

Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee, courtesy of Gigi’s
Gigi’s owners Jacob Armando and Eric Brooks. Photo by Andrew Thomas Lee, courtesy of Gigi’s

Gigi’s is Only Getting Better with Age.

“It sort of feels like we’re here,” Armando says, when asked about the future of the restaurant. While phase two could be considered a light facelift between the expanded dining room, personal touches, and added storage, nothing lasts forever and nothing, really, is meant to remain the same. “We’re trying to stay focused and not lose sight of what we originally set out to do… so who knows what phases three, four, and five could be.”

It’s clear that Gigi’s is only getting better with age, and that just a few more seats at the table means an enhanced dining experience for all – and a chance to finally try that tiramisu.

 

Gigi’s is closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays, and is open every Friday through Tuesday for dinner.

Allison Ramirez is a bicoastal, Atlanta-based (for now) freelance journalist. She has over a decade of experience writing for publications like Travel + Leisure, the Daily Beast, Liquor, Thrillist, and others. Her recent work spans art, architecture, travel, and food & beverage stories, focusing on diversity within those spaces in the South and beyond. Follow her on Instagram here. Follow Resy, too.