The Viral Food That’s Actually Good

Madison Fare’s pistachio knafeh fro-yo, in selfie mode. Illustration: Igor Bastidas

On Instagram and TikTok, anything worth eating comes with a line. Whether social-media fame is sparked by an influencer or is the result of a concerted marketing effort to engineer a food’s viral moment, digital popularity does not always correlate to actual quality. With this in mind, our Underground Gourmet columnist will queue up each month to try some of the city’s most-shared, most-liked foods to determine what Instagram bait is really worth the wait. 

Line 1: The Hype Cinnabon
Red Gate Bakery, 68 E. 1st St., nr. First Ave.
Until recently, these cinnamon rolls were only available on Fridays and Saturdays, a scarcity that certainly led to their reputation, along with the visuals: a sizable spiral of enriched dough slathered with a lavish layer of fluffy cream-cheese frosting and cinnamon drizzle. In reality, the roll is slightly tough, lacking the supple texture of a Cinnabon, while the cinnamon filling was not spiced enough to make all that bread seem interesting.
Worth the wait? The frosting was fine, with a nice buttery taste, but it’s not enough to make me want to get another.

Line 2: The Riceless Burrito
Son del North, 177 Orchard St., nr. Stanton St.
Though it didn’t take long to order, I was quoted a 20-minute wait for my carne asada burrito on a recent Friday night, which was enough time to have a glass of wine across the street. I came back to a hot, hefty bundle wrapped in a lightly spotted, slightly translucent flour tortilla imported from Sonora, Mexico. The combination of charred beef, gooey Monterey Jack, and a sprinkle of soft beans was delicious, but the emphatically riceless burritos lacked structure and ultimately left me unfulfilled.
Worth the wait? Yes, though you may find yourself longing for a little more starch.

Line 3: The Viral Pistachio Knafeh Frozen Yogurt
Madison Fare, 1225 Madison Ave., nr. E. 88th St.
Nearly every cooking influencer has attempted to re-create the “Dubai chocolate bar,” filled with pistachio paste and crisp shredded phyllo. Amin Kinana from this uptown gourmet market decided to interpret it as a new topping for their Greek yogurt soft serve. Now, the line to try it has become a fixture stretching down the block. Far from being an ice cream dupe, the froyo is pleasantly tart and refreshingly icy, while the pistachio sauce is nutty, bordering on savory. The most surprising part is how crunchy the knafeh remains the entire time.
Worth the wait? As long as the weather is warm, yep.

Line 4: The Dominican Smashburger
El Sazón R.D., 83 Baxter St., nr. Bayard St.
For the full effect, you must order the smashburger at this small restaurant on the edge of Chinatown with fried cheese. It costs $2 extra, but without it, the thin Pat LaFrieda patty stacked with American cheese and a pickle on a potato roll would be just like any other burger. The bronzed square slice hangs handsomely over all sides of the bun, and its crusty, bouncy chew contributes the heft of another protein, making even a single burger quite satisfying.
Worth the wait? Only with the fried cheese.

Line 5: The Fancy Chopped Sub
Brown Bag Sandwich Co., 218 Thompson St., nr. W. 3rd St.
Because this counter-service shop specializes in sandwiches with fillings minced to oblivion, it has become best known for its chopped cheese, which is often the first menu item to sell out for the day. But I’d pick the roast beef sandwich, made spicy with a triple threat of horseradish sauce, arugula, and very sharp provolone, plus a layer of pickled mustard seeds that perk up the rosy house beef on a fresh long roll. The coarse chop preserves the integrity of all the ingredients and makes sure every bite is complete.
Worth the wait? An emphatic yes.