Nearly everyone in Seattle knows China Harbor, even if they’ve never eaten there. It’s hard to miss: a jet-black rectangular structure lurking on the edge of Lake Union with a neon sign that glows an almost menacing red at night. If you’re unfamiliar with it but driven by on Westlake Avenue, maybe you’ve wondered, What goes on there?
For 30 years, what went on there were banquets, speed dating events, weddings, political rallies — anything that someone would need a big space for. For the last half-decade under its most recent ownership, it’s also been a popular dim sum destination. But after September, nothing will be going on inside China Harbor, as the restaurant will close down permanently.
“This decision is not made lightly and comes with heavy hearts, but we believe it is the right choice at this time,” the restaurant team wrote on Facebook on Sunday. The closure announcement (written in both English and Chinese) cited challenges including inflation and rising labor costs — common difficulties among restaurant owners in Seattle and nationwide — as contributing to the decision to close. China Harbor also had to contend with a 2021 closure after some of the building’s steel support beams shifted in the night, necessitating repairs.
According to Seattle Met, the building, which opened in the early 1960s and has a pool in the basement, started life as an Elks Club. In 1976 the main space began to be used by a series of restaurants. “In 1994, China Harbor took over,” the Met wrote, “making a name for itself by hosting dances, political rallies, karaoke, and speed dating nights, along with many other gatherings.”
In 2019, Thomson Zhao bought the restaurant and brought in chef Danna Hwang to help update a not particularly inspiring menu. “In the past, so many people complained about the food,” Hwang admitted to the Seattle P-I in 2021. New dishes included honey-walnut prawns with slices of green apple, taro balls with abalone, and pan fried chive dumplings wrapped in delicate rice paper, all of which helped establish China Harbor as a place one might actually go for the food.
Hwang also serves as executive chef for Zhao’s other restaurant, Vivienne’s Bistro on Mercer Island, and the duo will be focusing on that business now. According to the Met, they plan to open a second Vivienne’s downtown in mid October.
It’s unclear what will happen to the iconic, if strange, building.