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Jonathan Gold files on chef David LeFevre's Fishing with Dynamite, mostly focusing on the restaurant's fresh, well-prepared raw selections. He seems to generally enjoy composed plates, though isn't overly ecstatic about anything:
There is whole grilled sword squid with sliced chiles on LeFevre's short menu; super-thin grilled asparagus and a competent tomato salad with burrata; seasoned fries and tasty, if one-dimensional, Thai-influenced mussel soup with coconut. One afternoon, there was a whole New Zealand snapper stuffed with garlic, bok choy and ginger and then tempura-fried. When you eased a fillet off the snapper's frame, you unleashed a universe of Asian fragrance, and it was hard to stop eating until there was nothing left but bone.Though in comparing Michael Cimarusti's Connie & Ted's to Fishing with Dynamite, Goldy states that each restaurant is completely different "[a]nd while Cimarusti is perhaps more labor-intensive than LeFevre — his kitchen will always take the extra step to extract the essence from a lobster shell or to ensure that your next bite of sea urchin does not include a mouthful of crushed ice — LeFevre is also a master at building flavor." [LAT]
The Elsewhere: Darin Dines at Osteria Mozza, Gastronomy visits Yai's On Vermont, The Offalo considers Tar & Roses and The Unemployed Eater hits Stout.
