Textbook of
Cosmetology in
Unani Medicine
(as per newly revised CCIM syllabus)
Nazim Husain
BUMS, MD (Mu’ālajāt)
Assistant Professor, Dept. of Mu’ālajāt,
Luqman Unani Medical College Hospital and Research
Center, Bijapur, Karnataka
Mohd Khalid
BUMS, MD (Mu’ālajāt)
Assistant Professor, Dept. of Mu’ālajāt,
Luqman Unani Medical College Hospital and Research
Center, Bijapur, Karnataka
NOTION PRESS
2021
NOTION PRESS
India. Singapore. Malaysia.
ISBN: 978-1638861782
This book has been published with all reasonable efforts taken to
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Dedicated to
Hippocrates
the father of medicine
Contents
1. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF TAZ’ĪNIYĀT
(COSMETOLOGY) .................................................................. 1
INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................... 1
BRIEF HISTORY OF COSMETOLOGY .............................................................. 2
RELEVANCE OF COSMETOLOGY IN UNANI MEDICINE ............................... 5
2. SKIN NUTRITION (TAGHZIA-I JILD) ...................... 9
SKIN ANATOMY & PHYSIOLOGY .................................................................... 9
SKIN NUTRITION ........................................................................................... 14
ESSENTIAL NUTRIENTS ................................................................................ 14
MACRONUTRIENTS ....................................................................................... 15
MICRONUTRIENTS ........................................................................................ 17
OTHER ESSENTIAL NUTRIENTS .................................................................. 20
3. SKIN CARE (TAḤAFFUZ-I JILD) .................................. 22
3.1. SKIN AGEING ............................................................... 22
1. CHRONOLOGICAL AGEING .................................................................. 24
2. PHOTO-AGEING .................................................................................... 26
MAJOR CHARACTERISTICS OF SKIN AGEING ............................................. 27
ANTI-AGEING MEASURES OR ANTI-WRINKLE MEASURES ..................... 28
UNANI CONCEPT OF SKIN AGEING .............................................................. 36
3.2. FACIALS ........................................................................ 38
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Contents
FACIAL CLEANSER/FACEWASH/(RŪSHOYA-ﮧ%$ )روﺷ.......................... 39
FACIAL EXERCISE (RIYĀZAT-I WAJH) ....................................................... 47
3.3. FACIAL MAKE-UP ....................................................... 55
EYE COSMETICS ............................................................................................ 55
KUHL (SURMĀ) ............................................................................................. 56
KĀJAL .............................................................................................................. 58
BARŪD ............................................................................................................ 60
MASCARA ....................................................................................................... 61
EYE SHADOW ................................................................................................ 63
EYELINERS ..................................................................................................... 63
3.4. BODY MAKE-UP ......................................................... 65
TASHWĪM (TATTOOING) ............................................................................. 65
SIMAN-I MUFRIṬ (OBESITY) ....................................................................... 69
TAHZĪL (WEIGHT LOSS)/MANAGEMENT OF SIMAN-I MUFRIṬ
(OBESITY) ...................................................................................................... 73
HUZĀL MUFRIT (EMACIATION) ................................................................. 78
TASMĪN (WEIGHT GAIN)/MANAGEMENT OF HUZĀL-I MUFRIṬ ........... 84
3.5. HAIR REMOVAL .......................................................... 88
TYPES OF HAIR REMOVAL ........................................................................... 89
PERMANENT HAIR REMOVAL ..................................................................... 90
ELECTROLYSIS .............................................................................................. 90
LASER HAIR REMOVAL ................................................................................. 92
PHOTO-EPILATION ....................................................................................... 93
TEMPORARY HAIR REMOVAL ..................................................................... 95
EPILATION (HALAQ AL-WAJH) .................................................................. 95
TWEEZING ..................................................................................................... 96
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Contents
THREADING ................................................................................................... 96
WAXING .......................................................................................................... 97
SUGARING ...................................................................................................... 99
SPECIAL INSTRUMENTS FOR PLUCKING ................................................. 100
DEPILATION AND NAWRA ........................................................................ 100
SHAVING ...................................................................................................... 100
MECHANICAL SCRAPING ........................................................................... 101
CHEMICAL DEPILATORIES ........................................................................ 102
UNANI DEPILATORY/HAIR REMOVER (NAWRA) ................................. 104
HAIR BLEACHING ....................................................................................... 106
4. CULTURAL COSMETICS ............................................. 108
HAFT QALAM ĀRAYISH ............................................................................ 108
GHĀZA/SURKHĀB ..................................................................................... 109
NIGĀR/HINĀ .............................................................................................. 111
SURMA/KUHL/ATWAD ............................................................................. 114
ZARAK .......................................................................................................... 117
GHĀLIYA ....................................................................................................... 118
SAFIDĀB/SAFED ĀB ................................................................................... 119
WASMA ........................................................................................................ 120
KHĀL ............................................................................................................ 120
SOLAH SHRINGAR ....................................................................................... 121
UBTAN ......................................................................................................... 123
MISSĪ ............................................................................................................ 124
5. HAIR NUTRITION ........................................................ 127
HAIR FOLLICLES ......................................................................................... 127
HAIR NUTRITION ....................................................................................... 129
ESSENTIAL NUTRIENTS AND DEFICIENCY DISORDERS ........................ 130
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Contents
6. HAIR CARE .................................................................... 135
KHIḌĀB (HAIR DYE) ................................................................................... 135
HAIR GROWING (INBĀT AL-SHA’R) & HAIR LENGTHENING (TAṬWĪL AL-
SHA’R) .......................................................................................................... 144
HAIR STRAIGHTENING (TASLĪṬ AL-SHAʻR) ............................................ 148
TEMPORARY HAIR STRAIGHTENING (NON-CHEMICAL TREATMENT)
....................................................................................................................... 149
PERMANENT HAIR STRAIGHTENING (CHEMICAL TREATMENT) ........ 150
OTHER TYPES OF HAIR STRAIGHTENING ................................................ 151
CURLING OF HAIR (TAJ’ĪD AL-SHAʻR) ...................................................... 152
SPLITTING OF HAIRS (TASHAQUQ AL-SHA’R) ........................................ 160
7. NAILS (AẔFĀR) ............................................................. 163
STRUCTURE OF NAIL .................................................................................. 163
NAIL NUTRITION ........................................................................................ 164
SOURCES THAT CAN HELP THE NAILS ..................................................... 165
8. NAIL CARE ..................................................................... 170
MANICURE ................................................................................................... 170
NAIL POLISH ................................................................................................ 171
NAIL HARDENERS ....................................................................................... 173
NAIL MOISTURIZERS .................................................................................. 174
ARTIFICIAL NAILS ....................................................................................... 174
9. TAGHSĪL & SPA THERAPY ........................................ 177
TAGHSĪL/GHASŪL ...................................................................................... 177
ḤAMMĀM ..................................................................................................... 181
SPA ................................................................................................................ 186
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Contents
10. AROMATHERAPY (‘ILĀJ BI’L SHAMŪM) ... 191
AROMATHERAPY (‘ILĀJ BI’L SHAMŪM) .................................................. 191
CONCEPT OF AROMATHERAPY IN UNANI MEDICINE ........................... 197
PERFUME (‘ITR)/ DEODORANT (MUZĪL AL-‘IRQ) ............................... 203
11. REFERENCES .............................................................. 207
CHAPTER: 1: BASIC DESCRIPTION OF TAZ’ĪNIYĀT (COSMETOLOGY)
...................................................................................................................... 207
CHAPTER: 2. SKIN NUTRITION (TAGHZIA-I JILD) ............................... 207
CHAPTER: 3.1. SKIN AGEING ................................................................... 209
CHAPTER: 3.2. FACIALS ........................................................................... 210
CHAPTER: 3.3. FACIAL MAKEUP ............................................................ 211
CHAPTER: 3.4: BODY MAKEUP ............................................................... 212
CHAPTER: 3.5. HAIR REMOVAL .............................................................. 214
CHAPTER: 4. CULTURAL COSMETICS ..................................................... 214
CHAPTER: 5. HAIR NUTRITION ............................................................... 216
CHAPTER: 6. HAIR CARE .......................................................................... 217
CHAPTER: 7. NAILS (AẔFĀR) .................................................................. 219
CHAPTER: 8. NAIL CARE ........................................................................... 220
CHAPTER: 9. TAGHSĪL & SPA THERAPY ................................................. 221
CHAPTER: 10. AROMATHERAPY (‘ILĀJ BI’L SHAMŪM) ...................... 223
12. INDEX ........................................................................... 225
v
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vi
Preface
The use of cosmetics has originated from an inherent and
primitive human need for self-decoration. Women and men
have always had a fascination for changing their appearance
with the use of paints, powders, dyes, depilatory devices, and
other artificial methods. The wider acceptance of
cosmeceutical products has given greater impetus to modern-
day industry backed by innovative ideas and changing
perception by the advertising tactics. On the other hand, it has
enormously created job opportunities and entrepreneurship
skills in the society.
This book is intended primarily for medical students,
interns, and general practitioners interested in improving
their ability to deal with beauty care and ushering in this field.
We have essentially chosen to present the theoretical as well
as the practical aspects of cosmetology in order to approach
the most appropriate strategies suitable for skin type in an
abridged manner. Our primary goal is to provide our readers
a better understanding of the subject enriched with Unani
concept and therapeutic strategies.
How well does this work will, however, depend on our
readers’ willingness to collaborate and commit towards the
subject. We suggest that you pay particular attention to the
management strategies in consonance with an individual’s
beauty care needs. We would like to stress, however, that a
concise and rigorous presentation of the topics represents
already the most important task of the authors. There is
always scope for improvement; hence, we would request our
vii
Preface
esteemed readers to send their suggestions and we would be
fortunate to hear you.
_____________________________________
Nazim Husain, LUMC, Vijayapur, Karnataka
Mohd Khalid, LUMC, Vijayapur, Karnataka
Date: 12/03/2021
viii
Acknowledgement
Acknowledgement
In the name of Allah, the Most Gracious and the Most Merciful.
All praise are due to Allah for the completion of this work. I
thank God for all possibility, trials and strength that have been
drizzle on me to finish writing this title. My modest appreciation
to the holy Prophet Muhammad (Peace be upon him) whose way
of life has been always-on guidance for me.
I wish to express my deep sense of gratitude to the following for
their valuable help and support to this work: Dr. Aqil Quadri,
(principal), Dr. Shehnaz Banu (vice principal), Dr. Mariyam
Rouqaiyya, Dr. Bibi Ayesha, Dr. Nuzhat Patel, Dr. Tasmiya
Indikar, Dr. Meenu Doni, Dr. Ilyas Patel, Dr. Nikhat Kausar
Inamdar, Dr. Khalil Ahmed Hungund and Dr. Wajeehul Qamar
from Luqman Unani Medical College Hospital and Research
Center, Bijapur. I am greatly thankful to them for inspiring me
through their precious suggestions.
I extend my profound thanks to Mr. A. S. Patil, general secretary
SECAB association Bijapur for providing the best possible
facilities that led to the successful completion of this work. I am
also grateful to all my students for their co-operation.
Lastly, I would especially like to mention the name of my beloved
wife Mrs. Nargis Jahan, without her moral support, constant
ix
Acknowledgement
encouragement, persistent co-operation, endless forbearance
and inexhaustible store of affections, there was no way to
complete this work who sustained me at each and every step
and helped me bring this work to the logical end.
____________________________________________
Nazim Husain
Assistant professor, dept. of Mu’ālajāt,
LUMCH&R, Bijapur, Karantaka
x
1. General description of
Taz’īniyāt (cosmetology)
Introduction
The term “cosmetology” is derived from the Greek terms
“kosmetikos” meaning ‘beautifying’ or ‘skilled in adornment’
and logia meaning ‘study and application of’1–3.
Cosmetologists are wellness and beauty practitioners with an
aim to help people look and feel the best about personality4.
Ancient cultures were as preoccupied with the aesthetics
of appearance as the individuals are of today3. Physical
appearance has always been an inseparable part of daily
human existence, and most individuals prefer to be labeled as
beautiful. Historically, the aesthetic concept of beauty has
always been subject to changes and modification influenced
by social, material, and ethnic factors, in addition to religious
beliefs and customs. Lastly, culture plays a vital role in shaping
and influencing the human beauty and appearance2.
Beauty, cosmetics, costumes, fashions, and jewelry were
and will continue to be vital issues for physical appearance. It
has been represented in different patterns through the fine
arts in early civilizations of humanity. It has been visualized in
carvings, portraits and statues throughout the centuries. It has
been a fascinating preoccupation of artists to divulge the
beauty and explore the attractive parts of the female body in
their work. Since the invention of motion pictures such as
films and television, the depiction of women’s body contours
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Chapter: 1. General description of Taz’īniyāt (cosmetology)
has been explored and used for different purposes, but the
expression of beauty has always been the foremost
pursuance2.
The three elements that exert the greatest influence in
human relationships are physical and sexual attractiveness as
well as beauty. Physical attractiveness by itself influences
success, power, happiness, and satisfaction in life. The many
facets of beauty throughout the centuries has varried from
one civilization to another. The roles, parameters, and
dimensions of beauty also differed. Hence, the need arose to
give it a scientific base and devolope an evidence-based
curriculum to serve the humans with their needs of
beautification, attractiveness and physical appearance2.
Brief history of cosmetology
The initial records of beauty practice may be traced back to
the Ice age in the forms of hairstyling evidenced by
archeological studies5. In Egypt, as early as 10,000 BC, men
and women used scented oils and ointments to clean and
soften their skin and mask the body odor. Dyes and paints
were used to colour the skin, body and hair6. Tattooing
(Washm/ )وﺷﻢwas the first cosmetic procedure that was
utilized for beautifying the eyelids and eyebrows3.
Although the term “cosmetae” was initially used for Roman
slaves who were assigned to bathe men and women in
perfume, Egyptians were the first who used scented oils,
ointments, hair dyes, nail paints, and Kuhl around 3000 BC.
They tinted their eyelids black with Kuhl (powdered
antimony) or green with copper salts and lips with red
colour3. Henna was used for rendering a red hue to the nails
and soles of the feet3. These beauty products were made from
2
Chapter: 1. General description of Taz’īniyāt (cosmetology)
myrrh ()ﻣﺮ, thyme ()اﺟﻮاﺋﻦ, chamomile ()ﮔﻞ ﺑﺎﺑﻮﻧہ, lavender
()اﺳﻄﻮﺧﻮدوس, lily ()ﻧﺮﮔﺲ, henna ()ﺣﻨﺎ, peppermint ()ﭘﻮدﯾﻨہ, rose
()ورد, aloe ()ﮔﮭﯿﮑﻮار, olive oil ()روﻏﻦ زﯾﺘﻮن, sesame oil ( )روﻏﻦ ﮐﻨﺠﺪ
and almond oil ( )روﻏﻦ ﺑﺎدامand were stored in special jars
meant for makeup boxes6. The Ebers Papyrus has dedicated a
specific chapter on hairstyling and ointments for facial
wrinkles made of incense, wax, fresh olive oil, and cypress
bark. Alabaster, natron, sea salt, and honey, all mixed with
milk, were recommended for dermabrasion3. The ruling
monarch of Egypt, Cleopatra VII, the popular epitome of
beauty used lactic acid to achieve the smooth skin and
sandalwood perfume, and women emulated beauty practices
attributed to her for many centuries3.
It is documented that the Mesopotamians used facial
makeup, hair dyes, skin-care ointments, and lotions around
2000 BC which were largely borrowed from Babylonian
culture. Around 1000 BC, the Jews perfumed their body with
myrrh, incense, aloe, and cinnamon; women used the paste
made of honey and curd for facial wrinkles3.
The Indus culture of 500 BC is reported for the usage of
incense and sandalwood as fragrance; Kajal and Kuhl for
beautifying the eyelids, and tattooing on the forehead and
hands3.
The Romans used facial masks made up of barley, bean
flour, eggs, hartshorn, narcissus bulbs, balsam, Tuscany seed,
and honey. The Roman poet Ovid of 100 BC proposed three
classes of ingredients i.e., demulcent, cleanser, and
suspending vehicle in his book “the art of beauty”3.
Aelius Galenus or Claudius Galenus, often anglicized as
Galen of Pergamon in the Roman Empire, now in Turkey,
3
Chapter: 1. General description of Taz’īniyāt (cosmetology)
emphasized on the practice of body care, hygiene, exercise,
and balanced diet. He is credited for the development of
unctum refrigerans, or cold cream prepared from the essence
of rose water; hair tonic and facial lotion3.
The medieval period i.e., 9th to 12th century heralded the fall
of the Roman Empire and the rise of Islamic medicine. Greco-
Arab physicians such as Rabban Tabari, Zakariyya Razi, Ibn
Sīnā, Ibn Nafīs, etc. extensively wrote on cosmetics as
evidenced by their writings. These physicians had a deep
knowledge of cosmetics as they introduced facial mask,
dermabrasion, skin cleanser, etc. Avicenna highly
recommended daily bathing, massages, and aromatic
ointments2,3. Maimonides wrote a book in Arabic titled
“Preservation of Youth” in which he suggested a dietary
regimen of weight loss, hot water bath, exercise, and aromatic
ointments to retain youthfulness3.
At the same time in Europe, Paulus Aegina introduced
derma-abrasion made of ivory powder incensed with jellyfish.
Overall, no significant advancement was seen in this period as
medicine was subjudice of church rule, and monks were
forbidden to adore cosmetic products3.
During the Renaissance period, Europe marched towards
scientific temper leaving behind the church rule of magic,
religious miracles, and barber-surgeon dominance.
Paracelsus recommended aloe for baldness and wine vinegar
for facial wrinkles. Despite this, women were afraid of
wearing cosmetics as these products may cause tremors and
gastric problems3.
4
Chapter: 1. General description of Taz’īniyāt (cosmetology)
Video 1.1. The evolution of women's makeup throughout history
(Scan with “Google lens” app to generate video link)
The contemporary Americans had an organized bathing
system with hot water, had long hairs, coloured the gray hairs
with black mud; used sugar cane juice and avocado for facial
masks. Warriors used to wear tattoos in order to camouflage
with the surrounding environment. In the 17th century,
perfumery stores were initially opened in Peris. Excessive use
of make-up, perfumes, and other cosmetic practices got
prominence in England. The modern use of cosmetics got
impetus only in the 19th century backed by novel inventions3.
Relevance of cosmetology in Unani medicine
Going through the contributions made by Unani scholars,
especially in the medieval period, it gives us an impetus to
focus on this neglected subject. The herbal cosmetics have got
greater acceptance among the masses. Unani cosmeceutical
products are few to count on the finger. With the introduction
of cosmetology at undergraduate and postgraduate level, it is
fairly assumed that it may give Unani medicine the
opportunity to carve out a place in the competitive market of
cosmetics.
5
Chapter: 1. General description of Taz’īniyāt (cosmetology)
Further, this step may provide job creation as well as
entrepreneurship skills among Unani graduates. The
following career-oriented skills may be conceptualized.
§ Establishing Unani-based salons for beauty care
§ Spa wherein Turkish bath can be promoted, especially
in the tourism sector.
§ Starting cosmetic range of products after scientific
validation, skin type test, taxonomical identification of
herbal ingredients, microbial load testing, etc.
§ Career as cosmetologist
§ Extending cosmeceutical services beyond clinics and
making it relevant with day-to-day life such as
marriage ceremony, party, etc.
§ Research and development for design and
developement of cosmeceuticles.
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Chapter: 1. Generals description of Taz’īniyāt (cosmetology)
Timeline of milestone in cosmetology1,3,7,8
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Chapter: 1. General description of Taz’īniyāt (Cosmetology)
8
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