CHAPTER 1

THE ANATOMY OF SKIN, HAIR & NAILS

Introduction
The study and practice of cosmetology involves practicing various treatments and using new
technology to improve and maintain a client’s skin. A thorough understanding of skin
structure, growth and nutrition is important for a cosmetologist to provide proper skin care
to a client. A cosmetologist must also be able to recognize adverse conditions, including skin
diseases, so that the client can be referred to a medical professional when necessary.

Key Terms:
Dermatology: - The medical branch of science that deals with the study of skin - its nature,
structure, functions, diseases, and treatments is called dermatology.
Dermatologist: - A dermatologist is a physician who specializes in diseases and disorders of
skin, hair and nails.
Cosmetologist: - Is a professional who works on cleansing, beautifying and preservation of
health of skin. Cosmetologists do not diagnose, prescribe or provide any type of treatment
for illness, disease or abnormal conditions.

Healthy Skin
A healthy skin is free from any signs of disease, infection or injury. It is slightly moist, soft
and flexible. A healthy skin has smooth, fine grained texture. Skin appendages include hair,
nails and sudoriferous (sweat) glands and sebaceous (oil) glands.

The skin on scalp is constructed similar to the skin elsewhere on the human body but scalp
has larger and deeper hair follicles to accommodate the hair on head.

Callus - continued, repeated pressure on any part of the skin, especially the hands and feet,
can cause it to thicken and develop into a callus. A callus is an important protective layer
that prevents damage to the underlying skin.

Structure of Skin

The skin is composed of Epidermis, Dermis and Hypodermis.

Epidermis:
The epidermis is the outermost and the thinnest layer of skin. It contains no blood vessels,
but has many small nerve endings. There are five layers in epidermis from outside to inwards
are:
 Stratum corneum (Horny layer) - Outermost layer of epidermis. This layer is cared for by
salon products and services. The scale like cells of this layer shed continuously and are
replaced by cells coming up from underneath.
 Stratum lucidum- is the second layer which consists of small cells through which light
can pass.
 Stratum granulosum- also known as granular layer, this layer is composed of cells that
are filled with keratin.
 Stratum spinosum- is the spiny layer above stratum germinativum. The process of skin
cell shedding begins in this layer.

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 Stratum germinativum (basal layer) - is the deepest layer of epidermis. This layer of
epidermis producees new epidermal cells and is responsible for the growth of epidermis.
It contains special cells called melanocytes, which produce a dark pigment called
melanin. The melanin protects the sensitive cells in the dermis from the destructive
effects of sun’s ultraviolet light.
Dermis:
The dermis is the inner or the underlying layer of skin. It is highly sensitive layer and consists
of connective tissue Dermis is 25 times thicker than the epidermis. Dermis contains various
structures like blood vessels, lymph vessels, nerves, sudoriferous (sweat) glands, sebaceous
(oil) glands and hair follicles. It also contains Arrector pili muscles. These muscles are small,
involuntary muscles in the base of hair that cause goose bumps. They are also known as
papillae,
The dermis consists of two layers:
 Pappilary Layer - is the outer most layer of dermis and is directly beneath the epidermis.
The papillary layer consists of dermal papilla which are small cone shaped elevations at
the base of the hair follicles. Some papilla contain tactile corpuscles, with nerve endings
that are sensitive to touch and pressure. This layer also contains melanocytes, the
pigment producing cells.
 The Reticula Layer - is the deepest layer of the dermis that supplies the skin with oxygen
and nutrients. It contains the following structures within its network:
 Fat Cells
 Blood Vessels
 Lymph vessels
 Sebaceous glands
 Sudoriferous glands
 Hair follicles
 Arrector pili muscles
 Nerve endings.
 Subcutaneous Tissue - also known as adipose tissue is the fatty tissue below the dermis.
It gives smoothness and contour to the body, contains fats for use as energy and also
acts as protective cushion for the skin. Subcutaneous tissue varies in thickness according
to age, gender, general health of the individual.

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The skin on the under eyes and on the eyelids is the thinnest skin of the body. The skin of
palms of our hands and soles of feet is the thickest.

Skin Nourishment
Blood supplies oxygen to the skin. The food that we eat contains nutrients like proteins,
carbohydrates, fats etc. These nutrients are essential for life, repair and growth. The skin
also needs nourishment in the form of nutrients and cannot be nourished properly from
outside in by applying cosmetic products only.
Lymph removes the toxins, cellular waste and toxins from the body and help to protect the
skin and body against diseases. Network of arteries and lymph vessels in the subcutaneous
tissue send their smaller branches to hair papillae, hair follicles and skin glands.

Nerves of the Skin

Skin contains the following nerve fibres:
i) Motor Nerve Fibres- are distributed to the arrector pili muscles attached to the hair
follicles and carry impulses from the brain to the muscles.
ii) Sensory Nerve Fibres - react to touch, heat, cold, pressure and pain. The sensory
receptors send messages to the brain.
iii) Secretory Nerve Fibres - are distributed to the suderiferous and sebaceous glands of the
skin. Sensory nerves regulate the excretion of perspiration from the sudoriferous glands and
control the flow of sebum to the surface of skin.

Sense of Touch
The nerve endings that provide the body with a sense of touch are placed in the papillary
layer of the dermis. The nerve endings are most abundant in the finger tips. Complex
sensations such as vibrations, seem to depend on the sensitivity of a combination of these
nerve endings.

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Skin Colour
The colour of the skin depends upon the melanin (colouring pigment) produced by
melanocytes. The melanocytes produce the pigment melanin and deposit it into the cells in
stratum germinativum layer of epidermis and the papillary layers of the dermis. The colour
of the skin is determined by the amount of melanin secreted and is governed by the genes of
a person.

There are two types of melanin:

a) Pheomelanin - red to yellow in colour. Found in light coloured people.
b) Eumelanin - dark brown to black in colour. Found in dark coloured people.

Fitzpatric Skin Typing - Fitzpatric skin typing is a way of classifying the skin types with specific
referecne to the risk of sunburn and cancer. Scientists developed this skin typing system in
1975. Skin with little melanin has little protection from sun’s UV rays and is more likely to
burn quickly. When skin burns it increases the risk of skin cancer.

SKIN TYPE FEATURES TANNING/BURNING

1 Very pale white skin, often with blue or Burns without tanning
green eyes and red hair
2 White skin with blue eyes Burns and does not tan easily
3 Fair Skin with brown eyes and brown hairBurns first and then tans
4 Light brown skin, dark eyes, dark hair Burns a little and tans easily
5 Brown skin, dark eyes and dark hair Easily tans to a darker colour
and rarely burns
6 Dark brown or black skin, dark eyes and Never burns, but turns darker.
dark hair

Skin Strength and Flexibility

The skin gets its strength, form and flexibility from two specific structures found within the
dermis - Collagen and Elastin.
Collagen - is a fibrous protein and give skin its strength and form. This fibre makes up a large
percentage of dermis and provides structural support by holding together all the structures
lying in dermis. When collagen fibres are healthy, they allow the skin to stretch and contract.
However, when collagen fibres become weak due to age, lack of moisture, environmental
damage such as UV rays ro frequent changes in weight the skin will begin to lose its tone and
suppleness and will become wrinkled and sagged.

Elastin - is a protein base similar to collagen and forms the elastic tissue. Elastin is
interwoven with collagen fibres and gives the skin its elasticity and flexibility. It helps the
skin to regain its shape even after being repeatedly stretched or expanded. It gets weakened
due to age, lack of moisture, environmental damage and weight changes.
As we age, gravity causes these fibres to weaken and result in sagging skin.

Using a SPF, maintaining a moisturizing skin care regimen and keeping skin disease free will
slow down the weakening of collagen and elastin fibres and will keep skin looking younger.

The word collagen comes from the Greek words kolla, meaning glue, and gennan meaning to
produce.

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Glands of Skin
Sudoriferous Glands: Also known as sweat glands, excrete perspiration and detoxify the
body by excreting excess salt and unwanted chemicals. Sweat glands have a coiled base and
a tube like sweat duct that ends at the surface of the skin to form a sweat pore.

Sweat glands are present all over the body however, they are found in greater numbers on
palms of hands, soles of the feet, the forehead and the underarm. The sweat glands perform
the following functions:
i) Regulate temperature of the body
ii) Help eliminate waste products
The activity of these glands increases by heat, exercise, emotions and certain drugs.

Sebaceous Glands: the sebaceous glands are known as the oil glands and are connected to
the hair follicles. They contain little sacs with ducts that open into the hair follicles. These
glands secrete sebum, a fatty or oily substance that lubricates the skin and preserves the
softness of the hair. They are found in all parts of the body except the palms of the hands
and soles of the feet. They are larger in numbers and size on the face and scalp.

Black head: the sebum flows through the oil ducts leading to the mouth of the hair follicles,
however, when sebum hardens and the duct becomes clogged a pore impaction called
comedon or black head is formed. Blackhead is a hair follicle filled with keratin and sebum
and can lead to an acne, a papule or a pustule.

Acne: known as acne vulgaris, is a skin disorder characterized by chronic inflammation of the
sebaceous glands with retained secretions and bacteria.

Papule: is known as a pimple and is a small elevation on the skin that contains no fluid but
may develop pus.

Pustule: is a raised, inflamed papule with a white or yellow centre containing pus in the top
of the lesion referred to as the head of the pimple.

Functions of Skin:
1. Protection: The epidermis is a water resistant layer made of a thin layer of sebum and
fatty lipids. The skin protects the body from injury, bacterial invasion and is resistant to
temperature, minor injuries, and many forms of bacteria.
2. Sensation: The skin responds to sensations of heat, cold, touch, pressure and pain. Some
sensory nerve endings are located near the hair follicles.
3. Heat Regulation: The skin protects the body from the environment. It helps to maintain a
healthy body temperature of 98.6 degrees Fahrenheit.
4. Excretion: The sudoriferous glands secrete perspiration from the skin. Water lost through
perspiration takes salt and other chemicals with it.
5. Secretion: Sebum is secreted by sebaceous glands. This oil lubricates the skin and keeps it
soft. Oil also keeps the hair soft. Emotional stress and hormone imbalance can increase the
flow of sebum.
6. Absorption: Very few ingredients can penetrate the epidermis. Small amounts of fatty
materials such as those used in many advanced skin care formulations may be absorbed
between the cells and through the hair follicles and openings of sebaceous glands. However,
cosmetic products are not formulated to penetrate the epidermis.

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STRUCTURE OF HAIR
Hair is simple in structure, but has important functions in social functioning. It is the
appendage of the skin that projects from the epidermis. The hair is made up of 95% of a
tough protein called Keratin which is synthesized by Keratinocytes.
Fully grown human hair is divided into 2 parts:

The Hair Shaft

The hair shaft is comprised of three layers:
1. The Cuticle: Cuticle is the outer layer of hair. It looks like fish scales overlapping
each other. It helps to control water content of hair fiber. It is also known as protective
layer.
2. The Cortex: Cortex is second layer of hair. It provides strength, elasticity, color and
texture of the hair. It is also known as heart of the hair because keratin chains and color
pigments are available in this layer. Keratin chains is responsible for the structure of hair
and color pigments determine the natural color of hair.
3. The Medulla: It is the innermost layer of the hair which is sometimes absent and does
not have any functional importance. Usually very thick hair have medulla in it.

The Hair Root

Hair root is that part of hair structure which is located under the skin surface (beneath
epidermis).

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1. The Dermal Papilla - It is the small cone shaped elevation located at the base of hair
bulb. The dermal papilla contains blood and nerve supply that provide nutrients needed
for hair growth.
2. The Hair Bulb - It is located at the base of hair strand. It is a thick & club shaped
structure. It acts as a cover for the dermal papilla.
3. The Hair Follicle - It is a tube like pocket present in to the dermis which is the inner layer
of the skin. The follicle does not run straight down into the scalp but sets at an angle. The
natural flow is called hair stream.
4. The Arrector Pili Muscles - These muscles are connected at the base of the hair follicle. It
is responsible for making hair stand in case of fear or cold (Goosebumps).
5. Sebaceous Glands - These are the oil glands of the skin, connected to the hair
follicle. The sebaceous glands secrete an oily substance called “sebum” which lubricates
the hair and skin.
6. Sudoriferous Glands - These are small tubular structure within and under the skin. They
discharge sweat by tiny openings in the surface of the skin. There are two main types of
sweat glands:
 Eccrine Sweat Glands - These are distributed almost all over the human body, in
varying densities. Its water-based secretion represents a primary form of cooling in
humans.
 Apocrine Sweat Glands- are mostly limited to the axilla (armpits) in humans.

NAIL STRUCTURE
The nail is technically referred to an “Onyx”. Nails are made up of tightly packed, hard,
keratinized epidermal cells. They protect the fingers and toes from mechanical stress. A
healthy nail should be translucent in appearance with the pinkish color of the nail bed below
showing through. The horny nail plate contains no nerves or blood vessels.

The water content of the nail is related to the humidity of the surrounding environment. Nail
Plate has between 10% to 30% water content. The water content directly affects the nail’s
flexibility.

The lower the water content, more brittle the nail becomes.

1. Matrix: This is the growing portion of the nail. It produces new nail cells. Any injury or
damage to this part effects the nail growth. It contains nerves, lymph, and blood vessels to
nourish the nail. The matrix will continue to grow as long as it receives nutrition and is kept
in healthy condition.

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2. Mantle: Mantle is the layer of epidermis at the base of the nail before the cuticle .Nail
mantle is to protect the matrix from physical damage.
3. Nail Root: Portion of the nail which is the base of nail and is buried under the skin. It
produces most of the volume of the nail and the nail bed.
4. Lunula: Visible portion of the matrix bed is called the lunula or half-moon. The light color of
the lunula is caused by the reflection of light where the matrix and the connective tissue of
the nail bed join. This is located at the base of the nail, lying over the matrix .It is white in
color and known as half-moon.
5. Eponychium: The eponychium is the extension of the cuticle at the base of the nail body that
partially overlaps the lunula.
6. Cuticle: The cuticle is the semi circled or curved toughened skin around the base of the
finger nails and toe nails. A normal cuticle should be loose and flexible. It seals the area
against foreign material and micro-organism, thus helping to prevent injury and infection.
7. Nail Plate: The horny nail plate, (also called nail body) rest on and is attached to the nail bed.
It is formed by the matrix cells and is the most visible and functional part of the nail unit. It is
composed of hardened, flat, translucent, non-living, keratin nail cells that form a solid,
protective layer over the underlying soft tissue. The average person has 50 layers of keratin
cells that make up the nail plate. The nail plate is composed of layers of keratinized skin
cells .The pink color of the nail plate derives from the blood vessels that passes beneath it.
The main function of the nail plate is to protect the living nail bed of the fingers and toes.
8. Nail Bed: This is the part of the skin upon which the nail plate lies. It contains many nerves
and blood vessels which provides nutrients for the continual growth of the nail.
9. Nail Wall: The folds of the skin overlapping the sides of the nail, it forms a “Frame” which
surrounds and protects the visible part of the nail from all three sides. The “Frame” is
constantly reproducing new cells and shedding off dead cells.
10. Hyponychium: The hyponychium lies underneath the free edge of the nail. It is highly
sensitive part of nail which is found near the fingertips.
11. Free Edge: The end of the nail plate that is shaped during Manicure & Pedicure.

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CHAPTER 2
BEAUTY FROM INSIDE OUT - UNDERSTANDING NUTRITION FOR SKIN

Nutrition is closely associated with skin health and is required for all biological processes of
the skin from youth to aging to disease. Nutritional levels and eating habits can repair
damaged skin or can also cause damage to the skin. The food one eats regulates hydration,
oil production and overall functions of the cells. Skin disorders, stress, fatigue, depression
and some diseases can be caused by an unhealthful diet or improper hydration.
Nutritional status is vital for skin health. Micronutrients and macronutrients constitute the
essential components of food.
Macronutrients: These are the nutrients your body needs in larger amounts namely,
Carbohydrates, Proteins, Fats, Fibre and water. These provide the body with energy or
calories.
Micronutrients include: These are the nutrients your body needs in smaller amounts. These
are known as water soluble vitamins, fat soluble vitamins, and macro minerals and trace
minerals.

Food Pyramid
This pyramid helps people determine the amount of food they need to eat from the five
basic good groups: Grains, Milk, Vegetables, Meat, Poultry, fish and beans, Fruits

Eating Habits
 Eat a variety of foods,
 Select a diet that is high in fresh fruits, vegetables and grain products,
 Select a diet that is low in fats, saturated fat and cholesterol
 Eat moderate amount of salt and sugar, including sodium and modified sugars used in
prepared food products
 Drink appropriate amount of water
 Keep consumption of alcoholic beverages to minimum
 Balance your diet with right amount of physical activity
 Maintain or improve your weight.

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Mentioned below are a few nutritional elements and their impact on the skin:

MACRONUTRIENTS
Macronutrients are those nutrients that are required in large amount to maintain body
functions and carry out daily activities.

1. Carbohydrates
Carbohydrates, or carbs, are sugar molecules and the body’s primary source of energy.
These sugar molecules are among the three primary nutrients found in foods and consist of
oxygen, carbon, and hydrogen atoms. Carbohydrates come in three main types: sugar,
starches, and fiber.
The following are the three types of carbohydrates:
 Sugars – Sugars are the most basic carbohydrates; hence, they are simple carbohydrates.
They commonly get added to foods, such as candy, desserts, processed foods, and non-
diet soda, and are typically found naturally in fruits, milk, and vegetables. When
processed sugars are added to the diet, it can cause inflammation.
 Starches – Starches, or complex carbohydrates, are described as many simple sugars
strung together. The body must break starches down into sugars for energy.
 Fiber – Fiber, a complex carbohydrate, cannot get broken down, so eating foods with
fiber helps the stomach feel full and aids in overeating, lowering cholesterol and blood
sugar. Fiber also helps prevent some stomach and intestinal issues, such as constipation.
2. Fats (2 Types)
Fats give the body energy and aid in the absorption of vitamins (A, D, E, K). Many foods
naturally contain fats, including dairy, poultry, red meats, seafood, pork, eggs, nuts, seeds,
avocados, and coconuts. Omega-3 fatty acids are important in keeping skin supple and
moisturized.
3. Fiber (2 Types – Soluble & Insoluble)
Again, Fiber is a complex carbohydrate, and cannot get broken down.
4. Protein
Protein is a complex group of molecules that does more than one job for the body. Proteins
create building blocks that help produce hair, nails, bones, and muscles, give tissues and
organs their shape and help those organs work properly. Some hormones get produced
using amino acids, a significant part of the protein. Protein hormones regulate the body’s
cell function and metabolism. When muscles work vigorously, the muscle’s tiny fibers
sometimes tear, and repairing those tears requires protein. Structural proteins known as

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keratin make up the structure of hair and nails. Protein falls under two main categories:
Animal proteins and plant-based proteins.
The following are the two main categories of protein:
 Animal Proteins – These proteins include animal proteins but are not limited to whey,
casein, eggs, beef, and chicken. Most animal proteins fall under the header of complete
proteins, meaning they contain all nine essential amino acids: histidine, leucine,
isoleucine, lysine, phenylalanine, methionine, threonine, valine, and tryptophan. Amino
acids are used by the body to make other proteins that keep the skin supple – collagen
and keratin.
 Plant-based Proteins – These types of proteins include but are not limited to soy, pea,
brown rice, and chickpea. Most plant proteins, or incomplete proteins, lack at least one
essential amino acid. However, eating multiple sources of plant proteins creates an
effect of eating a complete protein.
 Enriched Proteins - are also essential in keratinocyte development and functions of
keratinocytes. The functions of proteins are:
 to construct and repair tissues ,
 mediate physiological functions
 supply energy

All tissue cells in the body are constantly renewed and only adequate protein intake can
maintain normal tissue renewal and repair.

The skin renewal cycle is considered to be 28 days and protein deficiency or excessive intake
can cause metabolic disorders and affect physical health.

Excessive intake of plant protein increases kidney load and excess animal protein intake
increases the risk of osteoporosis.
Protein deficiency on the other hand causes:
 Reduced immunity
 Slow growth
 Weight loss
 Apathy
 Irritability
 Anemia
 Thinness and edema.
 Enhanced aging

5. Water
Water is the most vital constituent of the body and facilitates maintenance of balance and
tissue function in the body. In body, apart from being a solvent, water plays the following
roles:
A) Nutrient,
B) Transportation carrier
C) Maintaining body volume
D) Regulate body temperature.

Lack of water in body can cause the following problems:

A) Tissue dehydration
B) Functional disorders such as aging and inflammation. Skin on lips and limbs is a direct
reflection of body’s moisture status.

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One must drink more than 3 litres of water daily as this significantly impacts skin’s
appearance and promotes superficial and deep hydration of the skin.

MICRONUTRIENTS
The Micronutrients refers to Vitamins & Minerals. They can be further be divided into
Vitamins, Macro-minerals, and Trace Minerals.

1. Vitamins - Vitamins play an important role in the skin’s health, often aiding in healing and
softening the skin and in fighting diseases< Vitamins such as A, C, D and E have been shown
to have a positive effect on skin’s health when taken by mouth. Remember that vitamins are
nutritional supplements, not cosmetic ingredients.
The following vitamins can help the skin significantly:
 Vitamin A - Supports overall skin health and helps in function and repair of the skin cells.
It improves skin’s elasticity and thickness.
 Vitamin C - needed for proper repair of skin and tissues. Vitamin C aids and accelerates
skin’s healing process. It helps in fighting aging process and promotes the production of
collagen in the skin’s derma tissues, keeping the skin healthy and firm.
 Vitamin D - enables the body to properly absorb and use calcium. Calcium is needed for
proper bone development and maintenance. It also helps in rapid healing of the skin.
 Vitamin E - helps to protect the skin from harmful effects of the sun’s UV light.

2. Trace Elements - such as iron, iodine, zine and copper etc. are called trace elements as
their presence in the body is less than 0.01-0.005% of the body mass. Trace elements have
the following impact on the human body:
A) Enhance skin immunity
B) Prevent inflammation
 Zinc - Zinc’s content in the skin ranks third among all tissues and is an essential element
for the proliferation and differentiation of skin epidermal keratinocytes. Dietary zinc rich
amino acid complexes may affect the proliferation of goat horn and interphalangeal skin
keratinocytes.
 Copper - In skin copper is involved in extracellular matrix formation, synthesis and
stabilization of skin proteins, and angiogenesis.

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Copper plays the following functions in skin:
 Improves skin elasticity
 Reduce facial lines and wrinkles
 Promote wound healing.
 Iron - Iron is a catalyst for bio-oxidation. A study has shown that ultraviolet radiation and
iron content in a post-menopausal women’s skin cells increases rapidly and reduce the
skin’s anti-oxidant capacity and lead to skin aging.
 Selenium - Researches done on mice skin shows that the lack of selenium in diet
weakens the UV-B induced ant oxidative ability of skin, making the skin more sensitive to
oxidative stress due to ultraviolet radiation.

What are Antioxidants

Antioxidants are substances that can prevent or slow down the damage to the cells caused
by free radicals, unstable molecules that the body produces as a reaction to environmental
and other pressures.
Anti-oxidants can be endogenous (produced within body) or exogenous (coming from
outside the body).

When our body processes food, waste substances are produced within the cells. These
waste substances are known as free radicals. If they are not removed from body, oxidative
stress can result. This can harm the cells and body functions. Internal factors like
inflammation or external factors like pollution, UV exposure, smoking etc. can increase free
radical production. These free radicals cause oxidative stress that is linked to heart diseases,
cancer, respiratory diseases and many more such conditions.

Antioxidants help us neutralize free radicals in our bodies and boost overall health.
Body can get antioxidants from outside the body form sources of:
Vitamin A, C, E,
Betacarotene, lycopene, lutein,
Manganese, selenium etc.

RDA Chart for Vitamin and Minerals

Vitamin/Mineral Natural Sources Functions Deficiency
RDA Symptoms
Vitamin A 4600 mg Yellow and green Growth and repair of Night Blindness, dry
IU fruits and body scaly skin, loss of

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vegetables, carrots, smell and appetite,
dairy products, fish fatigue, bone
liver oil, yellow fruits deterioration.
B-2 Riboflavin 1.7 Whole grains, green Metabolism, Dermititis, blood
mg leafy vegetables, formation of disorders,
yeast, bananas, antibodies, sodium nervousness,
organ meats and potassium weakness, skin
balance cracks, loss of
memory
B-7 Biotin 300 mcg Legumes, eggs, Metabolism, Dry, dull skin,
grains, yeast formation of fatty depression, muscle
acids, pain, fatigue, loss of
appetite.
Folic Acid 250 mcg Green leafy RBC formation, Gastrointestinal
vegetables, organ growth and cell disorders, poor
meats, yeast, milk division growth, loss of
products memory, anaemia
B-complex Niacin Meat, poultry, fish,Metabolism, healthy Fatigue, indigestion,
12 mcg milk products,
skin, tongue and irritability, loss of
peanuts digestive system, appetite, skin
blood circulation, conditions
synthesis of sex
hormones
B Complex Yeast, wheat germ, Metabolism, red Digestive disorders,
molasses blood cell formation, fatigue, depression,
intestines, colour of constipation
hair, sunscreen
Vitamin C Ascorbic Citrus fruits, Healing, collagen Gum bleeding,
acid 65 mcg vegetables, maintenance, bruising, slow
tomatoes, potatoes resistance to disease healing of wounds,
nose bleeds, poor
digestion
Vitamin F Wheat germ, seeds, Respiration of body Brittle nails and hair,
vegetable oils organs, lubrication of dry dandruff,
cells, blood diarrhoea, varicose
coagulation, veins, underweight,
glandular activity acne, gall stones.
Copper 2 mg Whole grains, green Healthy red blood Skin lesions, general
leafy vegetables, cells, bone growth weakness, laboured
seafood, almonds and formation, respiration
elastin formation
(when joined with
vitamin c)
Iodine 150 mcg Iodized table salt, Metabolism control Dry skin and hair,
shell fish obesity,
nervousness, goitre.
Sulphur Fish, eggs, nuts, Formation of NA
cabbage, meat collagen, body
tissues, keratin

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CHAPTER 3
SKIN AGING AND SUN DAMAGE

Aging of the skin is a common concern of every individual over 30 years of age. Skin aging
refers to the body’s ability to adapt to environmental and internal damaging factors in body
and its environment. As this adaption increases the macromolecular damage, impaired
tissue repair and gradual loss of skin’s functions and loss in skin’s integrity increases. These
changes are called skin’s aging.

Aging can be chronological (age related) or photo-aging (exposure to light).

Skin’s aging manifests in the form of dry skin, dullness, lack of elasticity and fine wrinkles.

There are two types of factors that influence skin aging: Intrinsic factors and Extrinsic Factors

Intrinsic Factors - These are the factors inside our body that are responsible for aging
process like:
A) Genetic Aging - depends upon our genes, skin colour, resistance to sun damage etc.
B) Gravity - is the constant pulling downward on our skin and bodies.

Facial expressions - are the repeated movements of the face that result in the formation of
expression lines such as crow’s feet (lines formed around corners of eyes), nasolabial folds
(forming in the corners of nose to the corners of mouth) and frown lines (on forehead). In
addition skin’s aging manifests in the form of dry skin, dullness, lack of elasticity and fine
wrinkles.

Extrinsic Factors: - These are primarily environmental factors that contribute to aging and
the appearance of aging. Many scientists and dermatologists believe that extrinsic factors
are responsible for upto 85% of skin aging. These factors include sun exposure, stress,
pollution and poor nutrition.

The damage caused due to these factors manifests as skin roughness, wrinkles, relaxation,
roughness, yellowish or greyish yellow ness in skin, capillary expansion and pigmented spot
formation.

A) Exposure to sun - Tanning and sun bathing and every day sun exposure is the number one
factor for skin damage. The sun’s ultraviolet radiation is divided into A, B and C categories,
depending upon the wavelength.

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 UV-A (320-400nm) - also known as aging rays, these sun rays have low energy but strong
penetration power. The impact of these rays impacts the dermis of the skin. It
accelerates the hydrolysis of skin collagen and elastin fibres of skin by promoting the
production of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP’s) leading to tissue destruction and
progressive degeneration of dermal extracellular matrix. UV-A inhibits the synthesis of
hyaluronic acid (HA).
 UV-B - also known as burning rays, these rays penetrate and act on keratinocytes in the
skin’s epidermal layer, potentially induce DNA damage and mutation in keratinocytes in
the skin’s cells. These rays result in symptoms such as aging, inflammation, tanning,
burning, carcinogenesis. However, keratinocytes have a strong antioxidant capacity in
response to UV-B exposure.

Simple tips to prevent sun damage -

1. Use of a broad spectrum sunscreen that filters UV-A and UV-B and has a sun protective
factor (SPF) of at least 15 every single day. A sunscreen inbuilt in a moisturiser is a good
solution. As a cosmetologist you must advice your clients to use the best sunscreen and
moisturizer every single day.
2. Avoid prolonged sun exposure during peak hours when UV exposure is highest (between
10 am to 3 pm)
3. Apply sunscreen at least 30 minutes before sun exposure to allow time for absorption.
Many a times we make the mistake of applying sunscreen when the skin is already
exposed to heat and sun for at least thirty minutes. The already inflamed skin is likely to
react to chemicals in sunscreen if applied after sun exposure.
4. If the skin is subjected to sun exposure for long period of time then one should apply
sunscreen periodically throughout the day.
5. Avoid exposing children young than 6 months to sun.
6. In addition to the sunscreen, people who are prone to skin burn should wear a hat and
protective clothing when outdoors.

B) Stress- scientists are of the belief that stress can significantly contribute to skin aging.
Stress causes biochemical changes that can lead to tissue damage. Exercise, relaxation
techniques and a healthy state of mind can reduce stress levels. Aromatherapy, facials and
massage are some other ways to reduce stress.
C) Poor Nutrition - Adequate diet containing all essential macro and micronutrients is
required to maintain, protect and repair the skin. These dietary components keep the skin
looking young and beautiful. Their deficiency causes various disease conditions (Table - )
D) Pollution - Exposure to pollution produces free radicals and interferes with proper oxygen
consumption. This affects the lungs and other internal organs and skin. A simple daily regime
of Cleansing, toning and moisturizing acts as a defence mechanism against pollution. Routine

16
of cleansing, mild exfoliating (removal of dead surface cells) helps to remove the building up
of pollutants that have settled on the skin surface throughout the day. Regular application of
moisturizer, sunscreen, protective lotions and even foundation products help to protect the
skin from airborne pollutants.
E) Smoking - is bad for body and skin. Smoking produces large number of free radicals which
cause biochemical aging. Free radicals accumulate and over a period of time cause wrinkles,
sagging, fine lines and other aging signs in skin. Smoking deprives skin and body of oxygen
which in turn affects blood flow and accumulation of cellular waste products called toxins.
F) Alcoholic Beverages - These contribute to the aging process and a combination of
smoking and alcohol cause devastating effects on the skin. The skin capillaries and blood
vessels experience constant dilation and contraction due to the effects of alcohol and make
the skin appear lifeless and dull. The damages caused by lifestyle habits are typically hard to
reverse.
A basic skincare program comprising of good hydration, sunscreen, an alpha or beta
hydroxyl acid exfoliating product and skin treatment products with ingredients such as
peptides and topical antioxidants.

Mechanism of Aging

Scientists have explained the process of aging using various models, some of these include:
Oxidative stress, Chromosomal (genetic) abnormalities, gene mutation and chronic
inflammation.

A) Oxidative stress - Oxidative stress plays an important role in skin aging and skin damage.
Oxidative stress increases the production of ROS (Reactive Oxygen Species). The
accumulation of ROS in cells cause DNA damage, skin inflammatory response, reduces
antioxidants, and inhibit collagen production, increase production of MMP’s to decompose
collagen and binding proteins (elastinm and collagen) in Dermis and lead to skin damage.
B) Genetic mutations - shortening of telomeres - Telomeres are small pieces of DNA -protein
complex at the end of tips of some chromosomes. The synthesis of telomere is important for
long term survival of an organism. Epidermal cells which have short telomeres have a poor
proliferative capacity. The reactive oxygen generated by UV radiation induces telomere
mutation, cell death.
C) Accumulation of Advance Glycation End products - AGE’s are the products of excess
sugar and protein binding usually derived from body synthesis and food intake. AGEs
accumulate in the photo-aging skin, affect protein function in dermis and promote skin aging.
D) Aging due to inflammation - Continuous UV radiation exposure induces oxidative stress
in the epidermal cells causing cell damage, fat oxidation and finally lead to cell inflammation.
With advancement in dermatology, in the past two decades, methods such as stem cell

17
transplantation, hormone therapy, telomerase modification and use of antioxidants and
retinoic acid have been promoted to address skin aging. However, some of these treatment
methods have serious side effects and disadvantages. For example, hormone therapy
increases the risks of breast cancer, retinoic acid may cause osteoporosis, and telomerase
modification increases the risk of skin cancer.

Due to all these factors mentioned above and to prevent side effects people have been
increasingly accepting dietary management for improving skin health.

Studies have established that people with diet high in vegetables, legumes, olive oil and fish
have lower risk of sun damage. Foods that increase wrinkling from sun’s rays include butter,
margarine, milk products, meat, carbohydrates and sugar. Evidential studies prove that
women older than 40 with lower intakes of protein dietary cholesterol, phosphorus,
potassium, vitamin A and vitamin C had a more wrinkled appearance. Women with drier skin
which can lead to increased wrinkling had lower intakes of vitamin C and linoleic acid.

Glycation starts by early adulthood, with a rate that varies depending on diet. Since it
remains impossible to repair cross-links, timely dietary prevention becomes important.
While glucose and fructose in the diet are important contributors, other foods, depending
on method of preparation, may contain preformed AGEs. Once ingested, these can enter the
circulation and react with components at the cellular level, causing protein cross-linking.
Cooking processes that lead to higher levels of AGEs include grilling, frying, and roasting.
Research has also focused on foods that may be able to inhibit the production of AGEs.
These include herbs and spices, such as oregano, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and garlic, as well
as substances found naturally in certain fruits and vegetables, such as lipoic acid.

Topical Antioxidants
Food and nutrients with antioxidant properties play an important role in prevention and
reversing of damage caused by free radicals.
Vitamin E - a fat soluble antioxidant is found in foods such as vegetable oils, seeds and meat.
The most active form of vitamin E in terms of aging and wrinkle prevention is A-tocopherol.
It has the highest anti antioxidant properties among all tocopherols. It has a photo
protective effect against sunburn when applied directly to the skin. Tocopherol creams are
applied to the skin to reverse sun damage.
Vitamin C - is a potent antioxidant found in various fruits and vegetables and help to fight
wrinkles due to its role in collagen formation. It is applied to skin to fight the damaging
effects of UVA and UVB radiation.
Creams containing combination of Vitamin E and vitamin C have been found to have more
protective action against sun damage.

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CHAPTER 4
SKIN DISORDERS

Common skin problems - Dietary & Cosmetic solutions:

A cosmetologist should study and must have a thorough understanding of skin disorders and
diseases for the following reasons:

A) In order to provide the most basic skin care services, one must understand the underlying
structure of skin and common problems.
B) One must be able to recognize adverse conditions, including infectious skin conditions,
skin disorders and you must know which of these conditions are treatable by the
cosmetologist and which need to be referred to a medical doctor.
C) By knowing and understanding the skin conditions and offering skin care treatments you
can add a new dimension of service for your clients.

Skin Diseases and Disorders

In your work as a skin therapist you will often come across skin and scalp disorders, so you
must be prepared to recognize certain common conditions and know how to treat them.
A dermatologist is a physician who specializes in diseases and disorders of the skin, hair and
nails. He attends for and a half years of medical college and then about another two years in
acquiring specialized training in Dermatology.

Cosmetologists refer the client with medical issues to dermatologists for care and advice on
medical disorders.

It is very important to understand a salon does not serve a client who is suffering from an
inflamed skin condition, infectious condition without a physician’s permission. The
cosmetologist should be able to recognize these conditions and suggest proper measures to
be taken to prevent more serious consequences.

Disorders of Sebaceous Glands

1. Acne
Acne is also known as acne vulgaris, a skin disorder involving chronic inflammation of the
sebaceous glands from retained secretions and bacteria.
Acne is both a skin disorder and an aesthetic problem and is a major concern. It can affect
people at any age, though it is commonly understood to be a teenage skin disorder. Women,
often face this problem in their 20’s or 30’s or beyond.
Acne is affected by these factors:
 Hereditary
 Hormones
 Environment
People with acne inherit the tendency to retain cells that gather on the walls of follicles
eventually clumping and obstructing the follicle.
Retention hyperkeratosis is the hereditary tendency for acne-prone skin to retain dead cells
in the follicles, forming an obstruction that clogs the follicles and exacerbates inflammatory
lesions such as papules and pustules.

The oil content of the skin is also hereditary. Overproduction of sebum by the sebaceous
glands contributes to the development of acne by coating the dead cell build-up in follicle

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with sebum. The sebum then hardens due to oxidation, cell build-up. This combination of
dead cells and solidified sebum obstructs the follicle.

The bacteria causing acne are anaerobic, which means that they cannot survive in the
presence of oxygen. However, when the follicle is obstructed, oxygen is blocked from the
bottom of the follicle allowing acne causing bacteria to multiply. The bacteria survive on
fatty acids in sebum and cause inflammation and eventually rupture the follicle wall. When
the follicle wall is ruptured blood rushes int the ruptured follicle where white blood cells of
the blood fight with the bacteria. Blood will surround and engulf the follicle which causes
redness in pimples.

Insulin and insulin like growth factor (IGF-1) also may be the culprits in acne pustules
formation. Insulin has been shown to elicit a hormonal response that increases sebum
production making acne worse. IGF-1 tends to peak during teenage years and works along
with sex hormone testosterone to increase sebum production.
Women with PCOD poly cystic ovary disease also tend to have acne.

An acne papule is an inflammatory acne lesion resulting from this wall rupture and infusion
of blood. A pustule forms from the papule when enough white blood cells accumulate to
form pus. Pus is primarily composed of dead white blood cells.

Management
Regular use of cleansers formulated for oily skin. These foamy cleansers can rinse off and
remove excess oil from the oily and acne prone skin. Toners designed for oily skin can
remove excess oils from skin.

Follicle exfoliates are leave-on products that help to remove cell build-up from the follicles
allowing oxygen to penetrate the follicles killing bacteria. Alpha hydroxyl acids (AHA)
products, salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide.

Avoid fatty skin care and cosmetic products because products that contain high amounts of
fatty materials and oils can cause follicles to clog from the outside. Make sure all makeup
and skin care products used on acne-prone skin are noncomedogenic which means that the
product has been designed and proven not to clog the follicles.

Do not use harsh products or over clean acne prone skin as this can cause inflammation and
worsen the condition.

Mild and moderate cases of acne are often treated by trained salon and spa professionals
who have received specialized education in acne treatment.

Dietary Interventions to control Acne:

1. Dietary interventions to control acne have focused on decreasing insulin levels to help in
controlling sebum production.
2. It is commonly believed that eating chocolates causes acne. However, no scientific
validation has been done on this fact.
3. While studying the correlation between dairy products like milk, cheese, cream etc. It
was found that dairy intake increases the sex hormones which in turn increase sebum
production. This further leads to increase in acne.

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4. Antibiotics have been used by doctors since ages to treat acne, however, there problem
with regular antibiotic treatments is that this also reduces the level of useful bacteria on
skin like S epidermidis. However, pro biotic are being considered as an alternative to
antibacterial treatments. Studies are going on to establish if application or ingestion of
probiotics is a more effective method.
5. Anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial herbs are used to treat acne by their anti-
inflammatory action. Oregon grape root, yellow root are herbs that contain bebeerine.
Berberine is the active ingredients in these herbs that helps inhibit the activity of P acnes
by its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory action.
6. Turmeric is an herb established for its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties.
7. Supplementation by Vitamin B12 has been found to increase acne pustules. Taking
vitamin B12 leads to the creation of compounds called porphyrins which have shown to
increase inflammation, leading to acne lesions.
8. Probiotics have shown to help in acne treatment but specific dosages have not been
identified.

2. Comedones - Whiteheads, Black Heads & Milia

 An open comedon is known as a black head. A comedon is a hair follicle filled with
keratin and sebum. Comedones appear most frequently on the face, especially in the T-
zone, centre of the face. When the sebum of comedon is exposed to the environment, it
oxidizes and turns black.
 When the follicle is closed and not exposed to the environment the sebum remains a
white or cream colour. A closed comedon is known as a white head and appears as a
small bump just under the skin surface.
 Milia - are benign, keratin filled cysts that appear just under the epidermis and have no
visible opening. They resemble small sesame seeds and are mostly round. They are
mostly found around the eyes, cheeks and forehead and appear as small, whitish masses.
They can be treated in a salon or spa.

Comedones can be removed by trained beauty professionals as long as proper procedures

are employed and procedure is performed in sanitary environment using extraction
implements that have been cleaned and disinfected.
 Sebaceous cyst - is a large pocket like lesion filled with sebum. Sebaceous cysts are
frequently seen on the scalp and the back. They should be removed surgically by the
dermatologist.
 Seborrheic dermatitis - is a skin condition often characterised by an inflammation of the
sebaceous glands. It is often characterized by redness, dry or oily scaling, crusting and or
itchiness. The red flaky skin appears in the eyebrows and the sides of the nose.
Seborrheic dermatitis is a condition treated by dermatologist however, salon can help in
application of non-fatty skin care products designed for sensitive skin. Severe cases are
prescribed topical antifungal medications by the dermatologist.
 Rosacea - Is a chronic condition that appears primarily on cheeks and nose. It is
characterized by flushing, telangiectasis, and in some cases formation of pustules and
papules. The cause of rosacea is unknown, but the condition is known to be genetic.
Factors like exposure to heat, sun and very cold weather, ingestion of fatty foods,
caffeine and alcohol and stress are known to increase rosacea.
This can be treated by the dermatologist and factors aggravating the conditions must be
avoided.

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Pigment Disorders of Skin
Skin pigments can be affected by the internal factors of the skin such as heredity or
hormonal fluctuations or outside factors such as prolonged exposure to the sun.
Abnormal colorations known as dyschromias - accompany the skin disorders and many
systemic disorders. A change in pigmentation can be observed when certain drugs are being
taken. The following terms relate to pigmentation conditions:
 Hyperpigmentation - means darker than normal pigmentation.

 Hypopigmentation - means absence of pigment resulting in white patches or white

splotches

 Albinism - is congenital hypopigmentation or absence of melanin pigment in the body

including skin, hair and eyes. Hair is silky white, skin is pinkish white and will not tan. The
eyes are pink and the skin is sensitive to light and will age early.

 Cholasma - also known as liver spots, is a condition characterized by hyperpigmentation

of the skin in spots that are not elevated. They are generally caused by sun exposure and
can be treated by a dermatologist.

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 Lentigines - is a technical term for freckles, small yellow-coloured to brown coloured
spots on skin exposed to sunlight and air.

 Leukoderma - is a skin disorder characterized by light abnormal patches caused by a

burn or congenital disease that destroys pigment producing cells. Examples are vitiligo
and albinism.

 Nevus - known as birth-marks is a small malformation of the skin due to abnormal

pigmentation or dilated capillaries.
 Stain - is an abnormal brown coloured or wine coloured skin discoloration with a circular
or irregular shape. Its pigment colour is due to the presence of darker pigment. Stains
can be present at birth, or they appear during aging, after certain diseases or after the
disappearance of moles, freckles or liver spots.
 Tan - is the change in pigmentation of skin caused by the exposure to sun or ultraviolet
light
 Vitiligo - is a hereditary condition that causes hypo pigmented spots on the skin. Vitiligo
skin must be protected from sun exposure.

Hypertrophies of Skin
A hypertrophy of skin is an abnormal growth of the skin Many hypertrophies are benign
which means they are harmless.

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A keratoma is an acquired, superficial, thickened patch of epidermis. A callus is a keratoma
that is caused by continued repeated pressure or friction on any part of the skin especially
hands and feet. If tit thickens and grows inwards then it is called as a corn.
A mole - is a small brownish spot or blemish on the skin, ranging in colour from pale tan to
brown or bluish black. Some moles are small and flat, resembling freckles. Some are raised
and dark in colour. Long dark hair often occur in moles. Any change in mole requires medical
attention.

A skin Tag - is a small brown coloured or flesh coloured outgrowth of the skin. Skin tags
occur most frequently on the neck of an older person. They can be easily removed by a
dermatologist.

A verruca - known as a wart, is a hypertrophy of the papillae and epidermis. It is caused by a

virus and is infectious. Verruca can spread from one location to another particularly during a
scratch in the skin.

Inflammations and Common Skin Infections

1. Conjunctivitis: is also known as pink eye and is a common bacterial infection of the eyes.
It is extremely contagious and clients who have conjunctivitis or obviously irritated eyes
should be referred to a physician immediately. Any products or implements touching the
infected eye must be thrown away.
2. Dermatitis - is a term broadly used to describe any inflammatory condition of the skin.
3. Eczema - Is an inflammatory, uncomfortable and often chronic disease of the skin,
characterized by moderate to severe inflammation, scaling and sometimes severe itching.
There are several different types of eczema. The most common type is atopic eczema,
which is an inherited genetic disorder. Eczema is not contagious however, all types of
eczemas must be referred to a dermatologist for treatment.

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4. Herpes simplex - is a recurring viral infection that often presents as fever, blister or cold
sore and appears as an eruption of a single vesicle or group of vesicles on a red swollen
base. The blisters can appear on lips, nostrils, or other parts of face and can last up to three
weeks. This is a contagious disease and requires medical attention.

5. Impetigo - is a contagious bacterial skin infection characterized by weeping lesions. It

normally occurs on the face and is most frequently seen in children. Clients with any type of
open weeping lesions should be politely rescheduled referred to a physician immediately.

6. Psoriasis - is a skin disease characterized by red patches covered with silver white scales
and is usually found on the scalp, elbows knees, chest and lower back. Psoriasis is caused by
cells turning over faster than normal and rarely occurs on the face. When irritated, bleeding
points can occur. Psoriasis is not contagious, but requires medical referral. It is treatable
but not curable.

In the last decade, the association between psoriasis and cardiovascular disease has been
studied more closely, and a number of reports have presented substantial evidence that
patients with psoriasis are at higher risk for cardiovascular disease (CVD).These patients

25
should be counseled about this association and, more importantly, how to reduce their risk.
This includes counseling about cardiovascular risk factors, including those which can be
modified through lifestyle changes.

The use of calcium and vitamin D supplementation along with behavioral interventions,
including changes in diet, exercise, smoking, and alcohol use, can have just as powerful a
protective effect. With so many potential toxicities due to steroid use, and with their
potential severity, it becomes critical that dermatologists address the fact that patients
themselves can take measures to protect their health and guard against serious side effects.
Dietary recommendations are, obviously, critical in reducing weight gain and reducing the
risk of hypertension, hyperglycemia, and metabolic abnormalities. A diet is high in fruits,
vegetables, nuts, and low-fat dairy products, and emphasizes fish and chicken over red meat
is prescribed to keep the risk of hypertension and heart disease away. This diet is low in
saturated fat, sugar, and refined carbohydrates. This type of eating pattern is congruent
with what would be recommended initially for patients with psoriasis, skin cancer, and those
starting steroids like prednisone.

Disorders of Sudoriferous Glands

 Anhidrosis - is a deficiency in perspiration, often a result of fever or certain skin diseases
and requires medical attention.

 Hyperhidrosis - is excessive sweating caused by heat or general body weakness and

requires medical attention.

 Miliaria rubra - also known as prickly heat, is an inflammatory disorder of the sweat
glands, characterized by eruption of small red vesicles and accompanied by burning,
itching skin. It is caused by exposure to heat and usually clears in a short time without
treatment.

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Combating Skin Dryness and Dullness in Skin Infections and Sudoriferous glands conditions:

Sometimes interventions more than drinking water are needed to combat skin dryness.
Local application of hydrating and fatty acid based creams help in such circumstances.
Dietary fat also help the skin to retain moisture. Polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) in the
skin help maintain fluidity and flexibility in the cell walls and also help in synthesis of
intercellular lipids which help in hydration.

Most diets are adequate in PUFAs, however, those who have deficiencies in metabolism of
PUFA’s are most at risk of developing eczema.

Two types of PUFA’s specifically helpful in regards to skin moisture are:

GLA - Gamma Linolenic acid
Omega-3 fatty acids

Omega 3 fatty acids are found to decrease skin itchiness and scaling as found in dermatitis or
psoriasis.
Fish oil (4gm daily) has been found to be significantly helpful and may be safe for those who
don’t have any disease related to blood clotting.

GLA is found in evening primrose oil, borage seed oil, and black currant seed oil. It also has
anti-inflammatory properties.

Studies have found that several dietary factors are correlated with sebum production,
epidermal pH levels and skin hydration. Serum vitamin A levels has an inverse proportion
with sebum content.

Hair and Nails

Both Hair and nails are made of a protein called keratin. Therefore, any factor that affects
hair will also affect nails. The cause of hair loss or brittle nails could be related to anaemia,
fungal infections, deficiency of L-lysine or other amino acids. For pre-menopausal women,
iron deficiency is the common cause of hair and nail loss. Sometimes low ferritin levels also
cause hair loss.
Vitamin D deficiency can also linked to hair loss. A failure to absorb vitamin D can lead to
hair loss and a condition similar to alopecia in humans.
Hair regrowth after hair loss has been successful via supplementation with omega-3 and
omega-6 fats from black currant see oil and fish, in combination with antioxidants that have
reported a significant increase in hair growth and hair diameter.
Brittle, easily cracked nails could be due to excessive contact with chemicals, aging and
certain medical conditions such as hypothyroidsm. Biotin, a vitamin B, has been used to
strengthen hair and nails.

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CHAPTER 5
NUTRITIONAL STRATEGIES FOR A HEALTHY SKIN

In the previous chapters we have learnt that diet plays an important role in controlling and
repairing various skin conditions. In this chapter we will discuss and study about various
nutritional strategies one must include in daily routine to have a healthy and glowing skin
and hair.

Consuming certain types of food may help keep the skin clear. Some foods have properties
that reduce inflammation and may help lessen the appearance of acne.

Foods to avoid:
 Milk and dairy products - Milk and dairy products might contribute to skin conditions, such
as acne, in some people. Studies have suggested a link between high blood levels of the
hormone IGF-1 and acne severity. IGF-1 interacts with adrenal glands, affecting hormones
in a way that contributes to acne. Since milk and other dairy products contain this
hormone, it may explain a possible link between dairy consumption and acne.

In addition to IGF-1’s impact on hormones related to acne production, other hormones

present in milk and dairy products may affect skin both positively and negatively. The
hormone estrogen, for example, may actually reduce acne.

Some studies in girls and boys have shown that consuming dairy products, especially skim
milk, was associated with having more acne. This may be due to reduced amounts of
estrogen in skim milk compared to whole milk.

Other components of milk products may also influence acne. For example, according to an
older studyTrusted Source, dairy contains the amino acid leucine, which promotes the
production of sebum in skin cells.

 Foods with a High Glycemic Index - Research Trusted Source shows that diets with a High
glycemic Index (GI) may contribute to acne.

Foods with a high GI raise blood sugar — and therefore insulin levels — faster than foods
with a lower GI.

Eating a diet with a high GI causes the body to produce more insulin. When the body has
excess insulin, it stimulates the production of androgen hormones and sebum in the skin,
which can lead to acne.
Foods with a high GI include:
 Refined grains
 Sugary cereals
 Chips
 Cookies
 White bread
 Alcohol
 Sugary beverages
 Foods with added sugars

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It is unlikely that any single food on this list can cause acne if a person eats them in
moderation. However, following a diet consistently high in many of these foods may play a
contributing role in developing acne.

Foods to include
To keep the skin at its healthiest and help reduce acne, consider increasing consumption of the
following foods.
 Fatty fish - Fatty fish is a source of omega-3 fats, an essential part of the diet with several
well-documented positive health effects. Consuming omega-3 fatty acids, such as those
found in fatty fish, helped manage inflammatory skin conditions, including:
 Psoriasis
 Dermatitis
 Acne
 Skin ulcers
Additionally, including omega-3s in the diet reduces the likelihood of developing skin
cancer and may also decrease the effect certain drugs have on the skin.
 Broccoli - Broccoli and other cruciferous vegetables have positive effects on skin health.
Broccoli contains sulforaphane, which has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Sulforaphane may also help prevent premature skin aging by stimulating several
protective processes in skin cells and promoting stem cell renewal.
This vegetable and several other plant foods contained low amounts of leucine, an amino
acid involved in sebum production.
When the skin produces too much sebum, it may lead to acne.
 Soy - Soy may have beneficial effects on the skin.
Soy contains isoflavone and has significantly decreased acne lesions, or pimples. It also
helps in reducing androgen hormone dihydrotestosterone (DHT) levels, which is related to
testosterone.
The isoflavones in soy have positive outcomes in skin elasticity, pigmentation, and
vascularity.
 Red Grapes - Red grapes and red wine contain the compound resveratrol. Rresveratrol
toxic to acne bacteria and inhibits them. Resveratrol protects the skin by helping it stay
moisturized and preventing it from losing heat.
 Probiotics & Prebiotics - An inflamed gut means inflamed skin therefore healing gut is
the, first step to healing the skin. Foods like yogurt, pickles, garlic, onions, spring onions,
cabbage, legumes, chickpeas, lentils, red kidney beans, soybeans are a good source of
probiotics and fibre.
 Low-Glycemic Index Foods- High-glycemic index foods (like refined carbs, white pasta,
white bread, cookies—any kind of refined, processed foods) have been linked with
inflammation and acne in particular. Foods with low glycemic index including any kinds
of protein sources, chicken, pasteurized eggs, vegetables, quinoa, steel-cut oatmeal,
sweet potato, brown rice can help in clearing up the skin.
 Berries- Blueberries, blackberries, and cranberries, goji berry are high in antioxidants
and packed with nutrients including vitamin A and vitamin C.
 Leafy Greens - Leafy greens like spinach, kale, collard greens, broccoli, and brussels
sprouts contain antioxidants and vitamins that provide a multitude of skin benefits. They
provide the body with vitamin A, which works against dry, flaky skin; vitamin C, which
undoes the sun's damage to collagen and elastin; and vitamin E, which helps fight
against inflammation.6 Furthermore, leafy greens contain folate, a nutrient necessary for
DNA repair.
 Eggs - Egg yolk is meant to nourish and soothe the skin while also providing vitamin A
for skin repair.

29
 Brazil Nuts -Selenium, found in Brazil nuts, is another powerful antioxidant that helps
protect the skin from free radicals. Not only that, but studies have shown selenium can
help to clear skin, reducing the risk of breakouts and decreasing acne.3
 Citrus Fruits- Citrus fruits are a naturally rich source of vitamin C, a potent antioxidant
that speeds cellular turnover, fights free radical damage and inflammation, and assists in
the production of collagen and elastin. It also encourages your body to metabolize faster
and can help you feel less bloated.
 Green Tea- Consumption of green tea is part of some East Asian cultures, and Japanese
women in particular have been aware of its skincare benefits for centuries. Some of
its many benefits include helping to slow DNA damage, stopping inflammation, and even
protecting against sun damage and burns.
 Fish- Fish boast a long list of benefits to your health, especially for your skin. Fatty fish,
specifically wild salmon, sardines, and mackerel provide essential protein and amino
acids, which make up the building blocks of our skin and keep it strong. Salmon, tuna,
halibut, cod, snapper, and sardines all contain selenium. Cold-water fish like salmon,
sardines, and mackerel are packed with essential fatty acids like omega-3s and omega-6s,
which retain skin's natural oil barrier, combatting dryness and uneven complexions.
 Good Oils - High-quality oils like cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil and avocado oil are
brimming with nutrients that may benefit skin—including essential fatty acids and
vitamin E. The monounsaturated fats (in olive oil) is good for skin health, moisture, and
elasticity.
 Chia Seeds- Chia seeds are rich in plant-based Omega 3s, protein, and soluble fiber.
Omega 3s in chia seeds provide an anti-inflammatory effect and can protect the skin
from inflammatory conditions, like eczema, hyperpigmentation, etc. Chia seeds are also
very hydrating and help to keep the skin plump.
 Sweet Potato - The vegetable is rich in beta-carotene, vitamin A, vitamin E, and
antioxidants. Beta carotene (a vitamin A precursor) and vitamin A itself fight
discoloration and early signs of aging in the skin by supporting healthy skin renewal.
Vitamin E supports collagen in the skin, and antioxidants fight inflammation-related skin
damage.
 Cucumber - Cucumbers are rich in water, vitamin C, and folic acid. Cucumber promotes
skin health both from the inside and the outside. Put it on your face to decrease
inflammation, reduce swelling, and promote healing from sun damage. Cucumber is
soothing, hydrating, and contains silica which will hydrate and strengthen your skin.
 Tomatoes -Tomatoes contain lutein and lycopene—two powerful antioxidants and
phytonutrients that may be skin protective.
 Walnuts -Walnuts contain nutrients beneficial for our skin and bodies. Walnuts are
richer than most other nuts in both omega-3 fatty acids. For example, one ounce (28
grams) of walnuts contain 8% of the daily recommended value for zinc, an essential
mineral required by the skin to function properly as a protective barrier. It’s also integral
in the process of wound healing and optimizing immune system function to combat both
bacteria and inflammation. Although not its primary skin benefit, walnuts also provide
small amounts of the antioxidants vitamin E and selenium.
 Avocados -Avocados contain high levels of healthy oils and vitamin E. "Both of which
provide the building blocks for healthy skin cell function as well as help improve barrier
function and hydration.

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CHAPTER 6
TRADITIONAL CONCEPTS FOR HEALTHY SKIN AND HAIR

According to the 5000 years old science of Ayurveda, good skin is the reflection of good
health. When we eat food we must focus not only on the taste of the food on our tongue,
but how does the food settle in your system. One must remember, what goes inside shows
on the outside. We will discuss a series of Indian food items and their benefits on the skin.
Every food has a unique value in terms of its nutritional content and our traditional science
recognized this thousands of years ago.

A. Ghee - Ghee nourishes and makes the connective tissue more elastic, boosts digestion
and increases strength. It lubricates the joints and mobilizes fat deposits. Ghee is the
highest source of butyric acid, a saturated short-chain fatty acid found in animal fat,
wholegrain and vegetable oil. Despite being a saturated fat, ghee is immensely healthy
because it increases high-density lipoprotein (HDL - which pulls fat from the blood
stream), and reduces low-density lipoprotein (LDL - that sticks to the arteries). It is made
of short-chain fatty acids as compared to long-chain fatty acids of butter which makes
ghee easier to digest. Ghee has 25-35% monounsaturated fatty acids (MUFA), a healthy
food found in olive oil, avocados and nuts. MUFA’s not only enhance cardiovascular
health but also benefit insulin and blood sugar levels. It contains a good amount of
vitamin A, E and K which is essential for beautiful skin and hair. It does not contain
lactose or cesin, which is why, it can be consumed by those who are lactose-intolerant.
Ghee is also an internal cleanser. Detoxification mainly happens through liver, which
produces bile needed for digestion of all other oils e.g. olive oil, however, coconut oil
and ghee do not require bile for digestion and therefore help in cleansing the liver.

Traditional value of ghee - Ayurveda considers ghee to be a satvic food because it

enhances the equilibrium of mind and body. It is a great carrier for any herbal medicine
(anupana) and increases the efficacy of herbal medicines. According to Ayurveda, any
sort of pain is related to vata (air factor). Vata is drying in nature and ghee is
moisturizing. Ghee works in pacifying vata in joints and along with turmeric is the best
anti-inflammatory, moisturizing and lubricating combination to relieve inflamed, aching
tissues.
Ghee reduces excess pitta which shows up as red, inflamed skin and causes burning
sensation. Ghee gives nourishment, moisture and glow to the skin.

B. Neem - Neem has antifungal, antibacterial insecticidal properties. There are 140
compounds in a Neem tree that can be used for therapeutic purposes. This compounds
include polysacharides, catechin, gallic acid, sodium nimbidate among others and work
as anti-inflammatory agents. Because of all these properties Neem is used as a
complementary treatment for diabetes as it brings down the blood sugar levels.

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Traditional value of Neem - All parts of Neem are useful and therefore most concoctions
of Neem include its leaves, bark, root, fruit and flower. The leaves are used against
inflammatory skin disease and were consumed in the form of a concoction. Neem leaves
purify blood and provide relief from skin diseases like eczema and psoriasis. The paste of
neem bark and leaves is applied on acne breakouts. It increases immunity, removes
toxins from the body and boosts metabolism. Neem also cools down the body and is
used in problems caused by excess heat in body and reduces blemishes and breakouts.
Application - Neem is very potent and must not be consumed for more than a month at
a stretch.
C. Triphala - Is packed with vitamin due to amla which also contains iron and B vitamins,
among other precious nutrients.
Haritaki, the second ingredient of triphala, is a digestive herb and detoxifier.
Bhibtaki, the third component of triphala, is rich source of vitamin C, selemium and iron.
It fights infections, clears respiratory tract and relieves inflammation.
Studies have revealed that triphala controls cholesterol and glucose leels, reduces fat
and boosts immunity.
Generally taken in a powder form it is packed with antioxidants, protects liver. It has
antiviral, antibacterial, anti-allergic and anti-carcinogenic properties.

Traditional value of Triphala - Ayurveda calls triphala - a rasayana (anti-aging &

rejuvenation). It balances all three doshas and is good for skin, hair and overall health.
The benefits of Amla, Haritaki and Bhibtaki give body a boost of anti-oxidants, work as
colon cleansers, nourish the tissues and organs, add luminosity to the skin and strength
to the hair, purify the blood and help in weight loss and improve bone health along with
many more benefits.
D. Turmeric (Haldi) - Curcumin is the key active ingredient of Turmeric is considered to be a
very powerful polyphenol known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-
carcinogenic properties. Curcumin is known to reduce blood fat and sugar levels. Other
than curcumin turmeric also contains phytochemicals like demethoxycurcumin which
helps in reducing inflammation, along with lung, breast and ovarian cancers; tumenorols

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(anti-inflammatory, antioxidant compounds).Turmeric also contains minerals like
manganese, copper and potassium.

Traditional value - It has warming properties and therefore must not be applied directly
to face or on sensitive or inflamed skin. It must be mixed with some cooler base like
fuller’s earth (multani mitti) to be applied on face. It has healing and pain relieving
properties due to which it is commonly used with milk in injuries and for relieving pain.
Ayurveda says that turmeric is said to improve the skin quality and imparts a golden hue
to the complexion, it also provides relief from itchiness, worm or microbial infections
and has scraping qualities which helps to detoxify the internal organs. In terms of
digestion turmeric is light and dry. Its potency is hot and therefore many herbalists or
doctors suggest you to avoid this spice in summers.
There are two varieties of turmeric:
 White Turmeric - also known as Amba haldi is a part of some green, organic skin care
products. It contains maximum amount of essential oils and hence is the most
aromatic variant of turmeric. It is especially good for irritated itchy skin and doesn’t
stain the skin as much as yellow turmeric. It has a cooling and soothing effect on skin
and therefore forms a part of face masks.
 Wild Turmeric - is antibacterial, anti-inflammatory (fights acne), anti-oxidant (fights
wrinkles and sun damage). It balances the excessive production of oil on face and
reduces itchiness and burning on skin. It is not used for internal consumption.
E. Ginger and Garlic- These two spices are warming in nature. Ginger is purely sattvic
whereas garlic is rajasic and tamasic in nature. Sattvic foods calm and centre the mind,
Rajasic foods are energizing and give you the motivation to achieve more from the
outside world, Tamas means laziness, dullness or inertia. All three properties are needed
to maintain balance in life.
 Ginger- Ginger is highly effective in bringing down inflammation. Its antioxidant
properties are surpassed only by pomegranate and certain types of berries. Ginger
contains vitamin C, polyphenols, beta-carotene and flavonoids all working together
to make this food a superfood. The active ingredients in ginger are phenolic
compounds called gingerols. They are so effective in bringing down inflammation
and swelling that this spice is strongly recommended in the treatment of arthritis.
Inflammation is the reason behind various skin conditions like acne, eczema and
psoriasis. By eating ginger we help our body to reduce inflammation.
Traditional Value - Ginger is known as the universal medicine in Ayurveda. Ginger is
a purely sattvic food, which brings about the qualities of balance and calm. It
increases circulation, promotes, sweating, removes phlegm from lungs and aids in
easy breathing. It enhances the effects of the other herb with which it combines.
 Garlic - It is believed that rubbing a slice of garlic on a fresh acne flattens it and
prevents it from coming back. The main component of garlic is allicin, which is
responsible for its The compound decomposes as soon as it comes in touch with the
free radicals in air and produces anti-oxidants. It contains sulphur and is beneficial
for skin conditions like acne. Besides sulphur, garlic also contains manganese,

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vitamins C and B6, trace minerals such as copper and selenium that are essential for
healthy skin. A great benefit of garlic is that it reduces toxin-related damage and also
helps to support our internal detoxification system.

Traditional value - It is considered to be a rajasic or energizing food. It nourishes and

detoxifies the body, boosts immunity and metabolism. It is used in skin conditions
for its anti-microbial properties.
F. Aloe Vera - It is a panacea for skin problems and contains vitamin A, C, E and B12,
twenty of the twenty two amino acids required by humans and also skin friendly
minerals such as copper, selenium and zinc. It has eight enzymes that break down sugar
and fat (one of them brings down inflammation on the skin), salicylic acid (to reduce
breakouts) and saponins (cleaning antiseptic agents). Aloe gel is effective on first and
second degree burns and reduces the severity of psoriasis. The application of aloe also
helps in seborric dermatitis and acne. Studies show that aloe gel reduces the appearance
of wrinkles and improves elasticity of the skin. Gibberellin (a growth hormone) present
in aloe Vera increases collagen synthesis when eaten or applied.

Traditional value - Aloe is also known as rasayana (anti-aging elixir) and is used to treat
everything from tumours to acne, boils, burns, wounds ulcers and fibroids, balances
three doshas, improves immunity, reduces hair fall and dandruff and enhances tissue
regeneration which is why it is so effective for skin conditions. It is known for its cooling
and detoxifying properties. It is used in form of gel or mask for skin and hair.
G. Giloi - Giloi or guduchi is one of the most potent medicinal herbs of India, which has
seen a recent revival because of the unfortunate prevalence of mosquito-borne diseases.
Dengue is one of the ailments that does not have any particular cure. However, many
have benefitted from the decoction made by boiling giloi with carrom (ajwain) seeds and
tulsi leaves.
This herb is used for its immunity-boosting, anti-allergic properties. A decoction made by
stem of the plant is commonly used, however, each and every part of the plant is useful.
A decoction from its stem is used to treat skin diseases and the leaves are used to cool
the burning sensation.

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Traditional value - The word guduchi literally means protecting the body from disease.
The anti-toxicity properties of the herb make it effective against many diseases. It is
specially recommended in skin conditions related to vata and pitta. Therefore it worlks
well for inflammatory acne, burning sensations and rosacea which are all pitta related
and dry flaky skin which is a manifestation of vata related conditions. It is the best
immunomodulator and therefore it is used for conditions caused by a weak immune
system. The plant is a creeper and grows wild in the jungles of India. The leaves and
stem of giloi can be boiled together - stain them and drink the decoction, it increases
platelet count which in turns helps to fight various diseases conditions.
Indian Berries - like Indian goose berry (amla), jamun and falsa, rashbhari and seabuck
thorn are some of the rich and potent indian berries which are power house of
antioxidants and antimicrobials. Here we will study these four berries among the many
others for their superpowers.
H. Amla- a 100 ml of amla juice contains anything between 600-900 mg of vitamin C. It also
contains iron that gets absorbed and assimilated by the body when combined with
vitamin C .So in that sense, amla not only contains the best kind of nutrients but also has
the most ideal combination.
The fruit is beautifying, restorative and health giving for its antioxidant properties, It
contains vitamin A, small amounts of calcium, copper, manganese and phosphorous.
Vitamin A is another powerful antioxidant which together with these minerals help to
protect the skin and fortify the body.
The best part about amla is that its vitamins do not get destroyed when you juice, dry,
cook, pickle or store it.

Traditional value - It is tridoshic - works on all three doshas. Its cooling sensations helps
calm burning sensations in the eyes, feet and stomach. Premature greying, which is
traditionally caused due to excess of heat in body can be brought under control by amla.
It reduces hyperacidity, works as a cardoac tonic, detoxifies the liver, cleanses out
impurities, improves eye health and helps slow down age related wear and tear.
Gooseberries are also packed with pectin, a fibre, which helps in cleansing our colon.
I. Jamun and Falsa - These deep purple fruits have a more astringent taste than
blueberries. There purple colour is due to the presence of the antioxidant anthocyanins.

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 Jamun - is appreciated for its anti-diabeti effect on the body especially the seeds
because they contain two compounds that prevent confersionof starch into sugar. It
also burns fat, is rich in antioxidants, iron, vitamins A and C along with trace
amounts of other minerals and B vitamins. It shields the skin from pollutants
Traditional value - Jamun is a fruit which has been used to stimulate appetite. Its
special power is that it reduces excess sugar while nourishing the body and has anti-
aging effect.
 Falsa - contains anthocyanins, flavonoids and carotenoids along with vitamin A and C,
all of which work against environmental stress.
Traditional value - It is a brilliant thirst quencher and reduces the extra heat in the
body. These fruits are seasonal and have antioxidants known to improve skin
conditions.
J. Rashbhari - originally from South America with a scientific name of Physalis peruviana,
this fruit originate in Peru. It is one of those rare fruits that contain high amounts of
vitamin K and enhances heart, bone and skin health because it works as an antioxidant.
Also known as golden berry, it also contains trace minerals including iron, copper and
zinc. It is rich in fibre and have a rich amount of antioxidants.

Traditional value - it has been used in India for decades and is known to cure ailments
like malaria and leukaemia. It is rich in betacarotene, in just 100 grams of this berry you
will find 14 percent of your daily requirement of Vitamin A and. The vitamin E content in
the pulp of the berry.
K. Seabuckthorn - grows in high altitudes of Ladakh in the bitter cold conditions. It is a rich
source of vitamin C and has fourteen vitamins including A, D, E, F, K, P and B complex. It
contains amino acids and powerful antioxidants such as anthocyanins along with high
amounts of minerals including potassium, calcium, and magnesium, iron and
phosphorous. They also contain omega fatty acids. The berry has omega - 3, 6 and 9 and
is the richest source of the rare Omega-. Omega-7 is known for its high anti-lipid and
anti-inflammatory properties and helps reduce blood sugar and fat. This makes it an
effective tool against type-2 diabetes.

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Traditional value - Sea buck thorn oil is excellent to apply on the skin. The high vitamin C
content makes the skin look brighter while its range of fatty acids and lipids add
luminoisty to complexion. This can be used and is beneficial to acne prone skin also. The
oil contains salicylic acid which makes up for 50-70 percent of its phenolic content. It
also contains gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) which acts as a cement between cells, building
up the skin’s outer most layer and protects from environmental pollutants. It is also used
in treatment of atopic dermatitis. Seabuck thorn contains linoleic acid (LA) which
regulates sebum production, thereby making it suitable for acne prone complexions.

Meal Plan for a Glowing Skin

MEALS WHAT TO EAT

Early Morning (6:00 am) 1 cup lukewarm water + half lemon juice+ 4
soaked almonds
Or
1 cup lukewarm water + aloe Vera juice + 4
soaked almonds
Breakfast (7:30-8:00 am) 1 wheat bread + 2 boiled eggs+
papaya/pomegranate or any seasonal fruit.
Or
1 cup oats with milk + fresh fruits + 1 cup green
tea.
Mid-morning (9:30-10 am) 1 cucumber/carrot sliced with yogurt/hummus
Or
1 cup freshly pressed fruit/vegetable
juice/coconut water
Lunch (1-1:30 pm) 1 chapatti + Veggies with
chicken/mushroom/tofu + 1 cup buttermilk
Or
Blanched veggies + grilled fish/chicken/lentil
soup + 1 cup brown rice/quinoa
Snack (3:30-4:00 pm) 1 cup green tea + 2-3 walnuts or 1 cup freshly
pressed fruit/vegetable juice (unstrained)
Dinner (7:30-8:00 pm) Vegetable/chicken stew + 1 flat whole wheat
bread + 1 cup raita
Or Mixed vegetable curry + 2 flat whole wheat
breads + 1 cup raita
Bed Time (10 pm) 1 cup warm water/milk + a pinch of turmeric.

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Glossary

AGAR
Used as a thickener in makeup, skin-care products, and shampoo, this gelatinous, algae-
derived sugar molecule also has mild antioxidant benefits.
ALLANTOIN
Known for its soothing properties, this chemical moisturizes and encourages cell turnover.
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHA’S)
These chemicals loosen the fluid that binds surface skin cells together, allowing dead ones to
be whisked away. This "glue" becomes denser as we age, slowing down the natural cell-
turnover process that reveals younger skin — making AHAs a particularly useful ingredient in
fine line-fighting creams and cleansers.
ANTHOCYANINS
A class of flavonoids, these red, blue, and violet plant pigments are thought to protect
against inflammatory diseases and free-radical damage. The most recent data suggests they
may help slow skin aging by curbing UV-induced skin damage.
ARBUTIN
Extracted from the bearberry plant, this complexion-brightening antioxidant is known as a
natural (and milder) alternative to skin-bleaching hydroquinone. Arbutin works by directly
inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase enzymes central to the production of melanin.
ARGININE
A critical building block of skin collagen and hair keratin, synthetic versions of this wound-
healing amino acid are found in fine line-fighting topical (as well as sports drinks and oral
supplements).
ASCORBIC ACID
Also known as l-ascorbic acid, this topical form of antioxidant vitamin C brightens the skin,
increases collagen production, and stems free-radical damage, making it a popular
ingredient.
AZELAIC ACID
It's a natural component of wheat, barley, rye, and the yeast normally living on human skin.
Used in topical rosacea and acne treatments, synthetic versions help kill bacteria living in pores
while reducing inflammation. It's also used to lighten melasma patches and other
hyperpigmented areas tone and texture.
BETA HYDROXY ACID (BHA)
These chemical exfoliants can smooth fine lines, even pigmentation, and penetrate deeply
into pores, dissolving sticky plugs of sebum and dead skin. One of the most common BHAs,
salicylic acid, is found in many acne washes, creams, and peels.
BOTOX
The trademark name for one of the forms of botulinum toxin used in injections targeting
facial wrinkles. Botox paralyzes facial muscles, such as those that cause frown lines, in order
to soften wrinkles.
BROAD SPECTRUM
A term for sunscreens proven to defend against both UVA (aging) and UVB (burning)
radiation. Passing the FDA's broad-spectrum test shows that a product provides UVA
protection that is proportional to its UVB protection. "Scientific data demonstrated that
products that are 'Broad Spectrum SPF 15 [or higher]' have been shown to reduce the risk of
skin cancer and early skin aging when used with other sun protection measures, in addition
to helping prevent sunburn.
CASEIN
A protein found in mammalian milk that may contribute to acne in certain people.
CELLULITE
Affecting up to 90 percent of women (due to estrogen and genetics), cellulite occurs when
fat cells swell and push through the tight, fibrous tissue bands (or septa) walling them in,

38
creating a dimpled or lumpy appearance. Only about 10 percent of men suffer cellulite, as
their septa is constructed differently, and better able to contain fat cells to prevent bulging.
CERAMIDES
Naturally occurring in sebum (skin's oil), these fats hold together the cells of the epidermis
to reinforce the skin's protective barrier.
CHOLESTEROL
One of the three main lipids (or fat molecules) comprising the skin barrier, it helps prevent
water loss to keep skin moisturized and functioning properly.
CITRIC ACID
Found in many fruits, the antioxidant alpha hydroxy acid acts as a natural preservative.
When used in peels, masks, and washes, it brightens and exfoliates the upper layers of the
skin, encouraging new collagen formation.
COLLAGEN
This protein makes up 80 percent of the skin, and its fibers give skin its firmness and
strength. Collagen naturally breaks down over time, but certain ingredients, such as retinol
and peptides (including Matrixyl), can stimulate new collagen production. The most
abundant protein in the human body, it makes skin thick, strong, and smooth. Laser
treatments and retinoids build it up; UV rays and free radicals tear it down.
DIMETHICONE
A slippery form of silicone that hydrates and protects the skin; often found in oil-free
moisturizers.
ELASTIN
Stretchy structural proteins that allow skin to snap back into place, elastin is particularly
vulnerable to sun damage.
EMOLLIENT
Any ingredient that increases water levels in the epidermis. Synonym: moisturizer.
EMULSIFIER
Chemicals such as cetyl alcohol that bind together ingredients in skin-care products.
GLUCOSAMINE
Found throughout the human body, the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory ingredient has long
been used as an oral supplement to relieve arthritis. Research shows that topical application
may reduce hyperpigmentation and boost hyaluronic acid production, smoothing fine lines
and wrinkles.
GLYCOLIC ACID
An alpha hydroxy acid derived from sugarcane, it dissolves the gluelike substance between skin
cells, aiding in exfoliation and improving skin texture. It's commonly used in high-end
products, such as cleansers, creams, and peels.
HYALURONIC ACID
A sugar molecule found naturally in the skin, it increases skin's moisture content and prevents
water loss. It can hold 1,000 times its weight in water and is typically found in expensive
creams and serums.
HYDROQUINONE
Available without a prescription in strengths up to 2 percent (4 percent in prescription
formulas), it inhibits pigment production to lighten dark spots.
HYPERPIGMENTATION
Often triggered by UV light exposure, a wound, illness, hormonal changes, or certain drugs,
this darkening of the skin might appear as a uniform tan, melasma (patches of discoloration),
or an isolated acne scar.
KAOLIN
A claylike mineral that absorbs oil and tamps down shine.

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KOJIC ACID
This skin lightener, especially popular in Japan, has been proven to be effective at blocking
the production of new melanin in the skin, but it can also cause skin irritation when used in
higher concentrations.
LACTIC ACID
Derived from fermented milk, this alpha hydroxy acid exfoliates dead skin cells and is gentle
enough for people with sensitive skin or rosacea. Since it's part of our natural moisturizing
factor, it's especially compatible with human skin.
LASER
Intense, concentrated beams of a various colors of light used to treat a variety of skin
problems, including dark spots, spider veins, wrinkles, and unwanted hair or tattoos.
MELASMA
A chronic skin disorder characterized by brown patches of pigment usually on the forehead,
cheeks, and chin. It tends to occur more in women — those with ethnic skin types, in
particular — and can be triggered by hormonal changes, UV rays, and heat.
MICELLAR WATER
A mix of purified water, hydrators (like glycerin), and low doses of mild surfactants,
these no-rinse liquid cleansers attract makeup, oil, and dirt when swiped over skin with a
cotton pad. They're mild enough for sensitive and acne-prone complexions.
PARABENS
A class of preservatives used to protect cosmetics against the growth of bacteria and fungi.
These controversial ingredients — including methylparaben, propylparaben, and
butylparaben — have been shown to possess weak estrogen-like properties, but the FDA
deems them safe when used at very low levels (.01 to .3 percent) in cosmetics.
RETIN-A
The brand name for the prescription vitamin A derivative tretinoin. First approved by the
FDA for the treatment of acne, Retin-A was eventually found to fight signs of aging by
speeding up exfoliation, repairing skin on a molecular level, and boosting new collagen
production.
SALICYLIC ACID
A beta hydroxy acid that removes excess oil and dead cells from the skin's surface. It's used
in nonprescription cleansers, moisturizers, and treatments for acne-prone skin in
concentrations of 0.5 to 2 percent.
VAMPIRE FACIAL
An in-office treatment that combines microdermabrasion with an application of platelet-rich
plasma (PRP) to hasten cell turnover and collagen growth.
ZINC OXIDE
A mineral in sunscreen that prevents UVA and UVB light from entering skin and doing
damage.

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