Sitting Minion Amigurumi Crochet Pattern
Sitting Minion Amigurumi Crochet Pattern
Sitting Minion Amigurumi Crochet Pattern
I shared the popular movie character Minion Rush amigurumi toy for you. You will
be able to make the Amigurumi pattern step by step easily and without difficulty.
Kids will love the Amigurumi free pattern. You can prepare holiday gifts for them.
The Sitting Minion amigurumi pattern consists of a large body part and arms and
legs. We start from the body part first to make the amigurumi pattern. After the body
part is completed, we crochet the arms and legs. While making the sleeves, we also
make the black gloves of the minion amigurumi pattern. After completing the parts,
we add them to the body. The eye part of the amigurumi pattern is crocheted
separately. Don’t forget to add this superhero amigurumi pattern to your favorite list.
Sitting Minion Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern
Designer
Instagram: chibiscraft
Ravelry: chibiscraft
TIPS
• Crochet the doll with tight stitches. Use a smaller crochet hook for better result.
• Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark ending of the round.
• It is highly recommended that you read through the pattern completely before
beginning to crochet.
MATERIAL
– 2.0 mm hook or size suitable for yarn used.
– Tapestry needle
– Sewing needle to attach buttons
– 2 black small buttons (5 mm)
– Fiberfill for stuffing
– Scissors
– Yarn in the same size (I used 4 ply, cotton blend yarn for a 2.5 hook) for the
following colors:
yellow, blue, black, white, grey, dark brown
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ABBREVIATION
This pattern is written in US Standard Crochet
Terms, and assumes knowledge of basic stitches.
– R = Row/Round
– MR = Magic ring
– st = stitch/stitches
– sc = single crochet
– inc = sc increase
– dec = sc decrease (use invisible decrease for better finish)
– sc4tog = single crochet 4 together
– hdc inc = hdc increase
– hdc = half double crochet
– ch = chain
– sl st = slip stitch
– BLO = Back loop only
– FLO = Front loop only
– FL = Front loop/loops
– FO = fasten off
– (__) = stitch count at the end of the row/round
DIMENSION
The size of the doll will vary, depending on the yarn used. If you use the same
materials as me, the finished doll is about 10.5 cm (4.15”) tall.
Standing sc
First, start with a slip knot on your hook. Insert your hook into the first stitch you want
to work into. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over again and pull through both
loops on your hook.
Standing hdc
First, wrap the yarn around the hook 3 times. Then, insert the hook into the first stitch
you want to work into. Pull the working end behind the piece you are working into.
Yarn over and pull up a loop. Now you have 4 loops on the hook. Then, yarn over
again and pull through the first 3 loops on the hook (You may need to pull over the
end of the hook with your other hand). Make your next couple of regular hdc st
according to the pattern. Then you can let go of the tail. At the end of this step, you
will already have 2 hdc.
Let’s crochet the body and head of the minion amigurumi pattern together.
Let’s crochet the pants and trouser pockets of the Minion amigurumi toy.
OVERALL’S BIB
The bibs are worked at the FL left from R32 of the body (you worked R33 BLO). You
need to make 2 bibs. The back bib is located near the color changing st. The bibs are
crocheted in rows. When you start the bibs, hold the doll body with blue part facing
you, and work from right to left.
NOTE: work the bibs as right as the body.
FRONT PART
Start with blue yarn, attach to the FLs of round 32 and make a loop.
R1 : standing hdc (you will already have 2 hdc), 12hdc (14), 2 turning ch
R2-R4 : turn, 14 hdc (14), 2 turning ch
R5 : turn, 14 hdc (14)
FO and make a long tail for sewing.
BACK PART
Do the same as the front part up to the end of R5. Then continue to make the straps:
make 25ch, 1sc at the second loop from the hook, then 23sc. At this point, check the
length of the strap. It should be long enough to reach the front bib correctly. If
necessary, adjust the number of ch. Continue to work 14ss along the bib line, then
make 25ch again. 1sc at the second loop from the hook, then 23sc. Make a ss at the
last hdc of R5. FO. Cut the yarn, weave in ends.
POCKET
Start with blue yarn, work in rows.
R1 : 6hdc in MR (6), 2 turning ch
R2 : 6hdc inc (12)
then make some ss at the upper part of the pocket.
FO and leave a long tail for sewing.
LEGS (make 2)
First, you will make an oval by crocheting around the foundation ch. Start with black
yarn.
R1 : make a foundation ch: 6ch then 1sc at the second loop from the hook, 3sc, 3sc
in the last st. turn and continue on the other side of the foundation ch, 3sc, inc (12)
continue crocheting in spiral.
R2 : inc, 3sc, 3inc, 3sc, 2inc (18)
R3 : BLO 2sc, 2dec, sc4tog, 2dec, 2sc, dec (10)
NOTE: everytime you work dec in BLO, use a normal dec (not an invisible dec).
R4: 2sc, dec, sc, dec, 3sc (8)
Change to blue yarn.
R5 : FLO sc, 6inc, sc (14)
Stuff the shoe with fiberfill. Continue stuffing while you move next rounds.
R6 : BLO 3sc, 4dec, 3sc (10)
R7 : sc, inc, 7sc, inc (12)
R8 : 12sc (12)
R9 : 2dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec (8)
R10: 8sc (8)
NOTE: Do not overstuff near the last round/flatten part (to keep the shape of the legs
so the doll can sit well).
Last round: Flatten and work through both thickness 4sc (4).
FO and leave a long tail for sewing.
ADDITIONAL DETAILS
• Embroider a smile to the head at round 20-23.
• Embroider hair to the head.
• Sew the black small buttons to the straps of the bib.