Welcome to Crystal Kerian's Asian-immersion kitchen

I'm not sure I've ever met anyone as passionate about a cuisine as Crystal Kerian is with Japanese foods. This Rochester woman embraces it all, from the simple to the more complicated and prepares it for her husband and five children almost exclusively.

Don't expect pizzas or hotdogs here.

As one who grew up in North Dakota on meat and potatoes, Kerian is an expert on the intricacies of Japanese cuisine, calling it her "comfort food." It wasn't always so.

In 2006 she flew to Japan for two weeks to visit her now-husband who was in college there.

On the flight over she remembers thinking, "What will I eat there? I'll probably starve to death."

Hardly. Every day he fed her a new Japanese dish and by Day Three she was a convert. It has only gotten better from there.

Fast forward. From 2013 to 2015, he was transferred to Japan and the family all went. That was the opportunity for her to learn all the intricacies and essentials, and she did.

"I tried to perfect the simpler things first by preparing them over and over. Noodles: udon, soba and somen, a version of pasta finer then angel hair," she says. It's not quite as thin as a strand of hair but close.

She is a quick study and soon, with the help of local Japanese women, she had a repertoire of dishes.

"Theirs is based on actual fresh foods, not fusion or sushi and ramen. They take great pride in what they prepare and its presentation," Kerian says. "Fruits are often wrapped in cellophane to be more presentable."

The food itself is a harmony of five different elements — salty, sweet, bitter, savory and sour, Kerian explained. What she prepares appreciates and makes use of those flavors.

She is also proficient at using Japanese cooking equipment, especially a rice cooker, which has a prominent place in the kitchen and is pretty much in use all day.

"It's more important than my stove," she explains. "It's also like my brain — it asks me questions like how long it should cook, how would I like it done, it regulates everything."

There are also two large plastic containers for rice, one for short grain, the other for Jasmine. In fact, she orders 50-pound bags of the short grain once a month.

The ingredients she uses come mostly from local Asian markets, specifically Saigon Far East and the Asian Food Store. A few are also ordered from Amazon, mostly flavorings like a special curry.

There were several things simmering on the stove while I was there and I was hoping I'd get a taste. I did — of a dish called chashu pork and a Japanese curry — both sensational.

In fact she said that the Japanese curry is the most home-cooked meal in Japan. I could easily have eaten it all but of course just took tastes knowing her five children were hoping there'd be leftovers.

Asked about favorites, one of hers is a miso soup with rice. "It's hearty, full of protein and makes a great start to the day."

The family is fortunate in that they've been able to return to Japan several times. In 2023 they were there for six weeks and again this past fall for six weeks. That allows her to continue to add to her culinary skills.

Right now she's learning to make ramen from scratch. Interestingly, she recently entered a chili cook-off here and won first place with a kimchee and Japanese sweet potato chili. Knowing her expertise, it's not surprising.

In addition to the cooking she does, Kerian also homeschools all of her children. No pun intended, but she truly has a full plate.

Contributed / Holly Ebel

3/4 pounds pork belly
1 tsp. salt
1/2 Tbsp. oil
2 inches ginger, sliced
1 Tokyo negi (or leeks/green onions)
Seasoning
3/4 cup water
1/2 cup sake
1/4 cup soy sauce
3 Tbsp. sugar

Cut negi into 2-inch lengths and separate green parts from white parts. Cut white parts lengthwise and remove soft green core. Keep with green parts. Soak white and green parts separately in cold water for 10 minutes. Put in air-tight container for later. Next, peel and slice ginger. Then sprinkle and rub salt onto pork belly. Roll pork belly and tie with butcher's twine, fat side on the outside. Heat oil in cast iron skillet or frying pan over high heat. Brown the fat side of the pork belly first then brown the other side, total of 10 minutes. While browning, put all seasoning ingredients into a heavy-bottom pot. Place pork belly into pot and add ginger and negi, and bring to a boil. Place an otoshibuta (drop lid, or aluminum foil substitute) directly on top of the meat. Lower heat to medium low and simmer, turning occasionally for about an hour until about 1/4 inch of liquid is left. Remove the otoshibuta and continue to reduce the sauce until you can see the bottom of the pan, continue cooking for about 15-20 minutes (don't leave unattended) until bubbles appear and meat appears shiny. Remove from heat and cut meat into thin slices. Transfer to a serving plate and top with white part of the onions and Japanese seven spices (shichimi togarashi), or serve with ramen.
Japanese curry
2 pounds of beef (can also use chicken, lamb or shrimp)
2 pounds onion
9 ounces carrots
10 ounces potatoes
2 Tbsp. cooking oil
5 cups water
Japanese curry roux pieces (try Asian Food Store).

Chop meat and vegetables to desired size. In a large skillet on medium heat, stir-fry meat first to brown surface, then add vegetables for five minutes. Add water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and cover, simmer until ingredients are tender (about 15 minutes). Add pieces of curry roux and dissolve until sauce reaches desired consistency. Serve over hot rice or noodles.

Post Bulletin food writer Holly Ebel knows what’s cookin’. Send comments or story tips to [email protected] .