How to Spot Bad Gelato, According to Italians

Upon arriving in Italy, it is hard not to get tempted by the glamorous-looking gelato shops with their heaps of colorful sweets. The mountainous swirls and rainbow palettes are just begging to be scooped into cones to enjoy while sitting in an ancient piazza.

But according to local Italians, you should not be so quick to place an order. Many of the shops catering to tourists serve "fake" gelato, pumped full of air, artificial colors, and flavorings. They are not the true thing and are therefore a waste of money. A better tactic is to learn how to identify "real" gelato and then seek it out in the smaller artisanal shops that can also be found in every Italian town and city. 

How Can You Tell if Gelato Is the Real Thing?

A real gelato is dense, not fluffy. It should get packed into a cup or a cone with a paddle-like tool, not scooped. The gelato should lie flat in the serving dish or in a stainless steel canister set into the countertop, sometimes with a lid on top so you can't even see it. It is a product that the producer is trying to keep as fresh and cold as possible, not on display in big fancy piles. 

Roman tour guide Val warns Americans in a viral Tiktok video, "If you see the big mounds, what are they trying to do? Impress you. But also, they whisk it up so they grow with the air and they go down in the evening. So you're paying for air, literally."

Another tip is to look for three key flavors—pistachio, banana, and mint. Banana-flavored gelato should never be yellow, but rather off-white. This is "because we don't eat the peel," according to Val. "I know it's obvious, but a lot of people think it should be yellow." Similarly, mint gets its flavor from an extract, which does not affect color; any green (from fresh mint leaves) will be pale and subtle. Pistachio is a dull brownish-green, not bright green, almost ugly (but delicious).

Look out for other bright, bold colors. If you see brilliant blues and pinks, you can tell that the gelateria uses artificial colors, which indicates that they likely use artificial flavors, too. If a place lets its production standards slide for just one flavor, it is likely to do the same for others. Keep in mind always that if a gelato uses local, seasonal ingredients, the colors will reflect that. 

Keep an eye out for signs that say gelateria artigianale (artisanal gelateria, in English). Ask locals, if you can, for their recommendations of where to go. Often the best shops are further away from the busy tourist centers, but well worth the walk.

Buon appetito!