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A selection of dishes made by co-chefs Paul D’Avino and Jorge Olarte.
Pastas from Cafe Mars on Third Avenue.
Lanna Apisukh/Eater NY

The Best Restaurants in Gowanus

Picks include neighborhood Mexican, maximalist Italian, and Korean barbecue

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Pastas from Cafe Mars on Third Avenue.
| Lanna Apisukh/Eater NY

Centuries ago what’s now Gowanus was a rich Native American clam bed, a creek known as Gowanee. Over the years, its banks crowded with industrial architecture, including factories and warehouses, and in the process became one of the city’s most polluted waterways.

It was that maritime ambiance that, like decades ago in Soho, attracted artists and other loft dwellers, and gradually, the old usages were replaced with bars, restaurants, social clubs, and high-rise apartment buildings, though much of the industrial feel remains, especially in its picturesque bridges. So visit Gowanus and walk among its branching arms, still redolent of 19th century Brooklyn.

Note that the borders of the neighborhood generally extend to Fourth Avenue on the east, the Upper Bay on the south, within a block or two of the canal into what may also be considered Carroll Gardens on the west, and to Wyckoff Street on the north, the northernmost reaches of the Gowanus Houses.

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Descended from Red Hook’s Good Fork, Insa serves Korean food, including cook-at-your-table barbecue, and is also notable for a dining room ringed with karaoke rooms — once unusual, but now part of an entertainment mix in the immediate neighborhood that includes shuffleboard and rock climbing.

A round grill with small dishes all around it.
Barbecue grill with banchan.
Eater Video

Founded by Yeworkwoha Ephrem, Ghenet (“heaven”) has long been a mainstay of Gowanus dining, a destination for parties — it can accommodate fairly large ones — dates, and late evening suppers. Dining is communal, over big trays of injera bread. Chicken doro wett is a favorite, but you could do just as well with the vegetarian assortment, or the asa tibs, which features a whole fried fish.

A dozen dishes bedded on brown flatbreads.
Typical tray of food at Ghenet.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Parklife

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There is no cooler place to hang out in the summer than Parklife — presumably named after the great Blur album. Over the years it has undergone several transformations of the menu in its graveled, fenced yard, and the current menu incorporates Tex Mex and Persian flavors, via chef Scott Koshnoodi. Included are such things as octopus tacos with smoked lentils, and a chicken taco with yogurt.

A yard with picnic tables with people and high walls around it.
Come warmer weather, the yard is the place to be at Parklife.
Robert Sietsema / Eater NY

Sixteen Mill Bakeshop

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Sixteen Mill started as an Instagram bakery known for vegan and gluten-free baked goods such as challah; pound cake with matcha and lemon, hojicha and chocolate, coffee and walnut; as well as cake doughnuts made with hazelnuts and chia seeds, draped with chocolate ganache and garnished with a well of raspberry jam.

A selection of gluten-free baked goods from Sixteen Mill.
Sixteen Mill is known for its gluten-free baked goods.
Cole Saladino/Eater NY

Cafe Mars

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Housed in what used to be a pasta factory, the maximalist Cafe Mars is decked out with custom chairs with neon pink squiggly legs, and accents like a three-foot-tall pepper mill. Dishes are equally over the top, with some elements referencing Italian Itameshi cuisine. There’s Parmesan-cured fluke with “crazy water,” and a steak pizzaiolo with “penne fries” and tomatoes, and for dessert black olive marble cake.

A bright orange bowl of pasta with curly noodles, leaves, and tomato.
Cafe Mars calls itself an “unusual Italian restaurant.”
Lanna Apisukh/Eater NY

The lovable Wangs is really just a kitchen, a window, and a dining patio out front — killer in the warmer months. Most of its offerings involve fried chicken, of which the best thing is a banh mi sandwich. The Korean-style wings are good, and there’s also Taiwanese popcorn chicken, a chicken salad, loaded baked potato, and quite an array of vegetable sides.

A fried chicken sandwich in a cardboard box.
Vietnamese fried chicken banh mi at Wangs.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Claro is another of those destinations to hit during fine weather: Sure, there’s a comfy interior that’s fine in the winter, but the vine-hung backyard is exquisite, and there’s an open-air wood grill that’s also a draw. The menu name-checks Oaxaca, Jalisco, and Michoacán, and features hand-patted masa specialties like beef-cheek barbacoa tacos and venison garnachas, as well as multiple moles and drinks featuring mezcal.

A whole duck leg is blanketed in a pool of mole negro.
Duck with mole negro at Claro.
Amber-Lynn Taber/Eater NY

Baba's Pierogies

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Baba’s is a Slovak cafe that sells a dozen different pierogi varieties, including some surprising ones. The mac-and-cheese pierogi is a favorite, but then so is spinach and feta. Don’t worry: the usual sauerkraut and caraway, potato and cheese, and plain farmers cheese are also available, steamed or fried. Kielbasy sandwiches, salads, and soups are also worth grabbing, especially if heading for a picnic on the canal.

One pierogi is cut open and oozing mac and cheese.
Fried mac-and-cheese pierogi.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Bison & Bourbon

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Bison & Bourbon is a glatt kosher steakhouse that offers way more that its name suggests — but no dairy, of course. The steak list alone is formidable, but then there are kebabs, meat pastries, sesame-crusted fish, chicken shawarma, pizza, Caesar salad, and duck ravioli. Outdoor seating is available.

Four & Twenty Blackbirds

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Do you love pie? This pie pioneer from South Dakota sisters Emily and Melissa Elsen also serves as a coffee shop and popular daytime hang among Gowanus denizens. Bittersweet chocolate pecan, buttermilk chamomile, salted apple caramel, and black bottom oat are a few of their specialties, but do drop by to see what they have on any given day.

A wedge of dark brow pie with a thick crust and blob of whipped cream on the side.
A slice of chocolate pie with whipped cream at Four & Twenty Blackbirds.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Alma Negra

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Gowanus has other Mexican restaurants, but none deliver on the holy trinity of dining out — good food, good vibes, and good drinks — as well as Alma Negra. The restaurant from a former bartender at Aldama, a previous best new Mexican restaurant, serves fried fish tacos, a vegan mole verde with tortillas on the side, and a marinated chicken worth going out of the way for. Round out a meal with a $10 michelada or a well-crafted non-alcoholic cocktail.

Insa

Descended from Red Hook’s Good Fork, Insa serves Korean food, including cook-at-your-table barbecue, and is also notable for a dining room ringed with karaoke rooms — once unusual, but now part of an entertainment mix in the immediate neighborhood that includes shuffleboard and rock climbing.

A round grill with small dishes all around it.
Barbecue grill with banchan.
Eater Video

Ghenet

Founded by Yeworkwoha Ephrem, Ghenet (“heaven”) has long been a mainstay of Gowanus dining, a destination for parties — it can accommodate fairly large ones — dates, and late evening suppers. Dining is communal, over big trays of injera bread. Chicken doro wett is a favorite, but you could do just as well with the vegetarian assortment, or the asa tibs, which features a whole fried fish.

A dozen dishes bedded on brown flatbreads.
Typical tray of food at Ghenet.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Parklife

There is no cooler place to hang out in the summer than Parklife — presumably named after the great Blur album. Over the years it has undergone several transformations of the menu in its graveled, fenced yard, and the current menu incorporates Tex Mex and Persian flavors, via chef Scott Koshnoodi. Included are such things as octopus tacos with smoked lentils, and a chicken taco with yogurt.

A yard with picnic tables with people and high walls around it.
Come warmer weather, the yard is the place to be at Parklife.
Robert Sietsema / Eater NY

Sixteen Mill Bakeshop

Sixteen Mill started as an Instagram bakery known for vegan and gluten-free baked goods such as challah; pound cake with matcha and lemon, hojicha and chocolate, coffee and walnut; as well as cake doughnuts made with hazelnuts and chia seeds, draped with chocolate ganache and garnished with a well of raspberry jam.

A selection of gluten-free baked goods from Sixteen Mill.
Sixteen Mill is known for its gluten-free baked goods.
Cole Saladino/Eater NY

Cafe Mars

Housed in what used to be a pasta factory, the maximalist Cafe Mars is decked out with custom chairs with neon pink squiggly legs, and accents like a three-foot-tall pepper mill. Dishes are equally over the top, with some elements referencing Italian Itameshi cuisine. There’s Parmesan-cured fluke with “crazy water,” and a steak pizzaiolo with “penne fries” and tomatoes, and for dessert black olive marble cake.

A bright orange bowl of pasta with curly noodles, leaves, and tomato.
Cafe Mars calls itself an “unusual Italian restaurant.”
Lanna Apisukh/Eater NY

Wangs

The lovable Wangs is really just a kitchen, a window, and a dining patio out front — killer in the warmer months. Most of its offerings involve fried chicken, of which the best thing is a banh mi sandwich. The Korean-style wings are good, and there’s also Taiwanese popcorn chicken, a chicken salad, loaded baked potato, and quite an array of vegetable sides.

A fried chicken sandwich in a cardboard box.
Vietnamese fried chicken banh mi at Wangs.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Claro

Claro is another of those destinations to hit during fine weather: Sure, there’s a comfy interior that’s fine in the winter, but the vine-hung backyard is exquisite, and there’s an open-air wood grill that’s also a draw. The menu name-checks Oaxaca, Jalisco, and Michoacán, and features hand-patted masa specialties like beef-cheek barbacoa tacos and venison garnachas, as well as multiple moles and drinks featuring mezcal.

A whole duck leg is blanketed in a pool of mole negro.
Duck with mole negro at Claro.
Amber-Lynn Taber/Eater NY

Baba's Pierogies

Baba’s is a Slovak cafe that sells a dozen different pierogi varieties, including some surprising ones. The mac-and-cheese pierogi is a favorite, but then so is spinach and feta. Don’t worry: the usual sauerkraut and caraway, potato and cheese, and plain farmers cheese are also available, steamed or fried. Kielbasy sandwiches, salads, and soups are also worth grabbing, especially if heading for a picnic on the canal.

One pierogi is cut open and oozing mac and cheese.
Fried mac-and-cheese pierogi.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Bison & Bourbon

Bison & Bourbon is a glatt kosher steakhouse that offers way more that its name suggests — but no dairy, of course. The steak list alone is formidable, but then there are kebabs, meat pastries, sesame-crusted fish, chicken shawarma, pizza, Caesar salad, and duck ravioli. Outdoor seating is available.

Four & Twenty Blackbirds

Do you love pie? This pie pioneer from South Dakota sisters Emily and Melissa Elsen also serves as a coffee shop and popular daytime hang among Gowanus denizens. Bittersweet chocolate pecan, buttermilk chamomile, salted apple caramel, and black bottom oat are a few of their specialties, but do drop by to see what they have on any given day.

A wedge of dark brow pie with a thick crust and blob of whipped cream on the side.
A slice of chocolate pie with whipped cream at Four & Twenty Blackbirds.
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY

Alma Negra

Gowanus has other Mexican restaurants, but none deliver on the holy trinity of dining out — good food, good vibes, and good drinks — as well as Alma Negra. The restaurant from a former bartender at Aldama, a previous best new Mexican restaurant, serves fried fish tacos, a vegan mole verde with tortillas on the side, and a marinated chicken worth going out of the way for. Round out a meal with a $10 michelada or a well-crafted non-alcoholic cocktail.

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