When 721 St. Nicholas Avenue (below, corner house) made its debut in 1891, the formerly sleepy village of Harlem was rapidly becoming part of the urban streetscape.
What had been a rural area dotted with estate houses in the 18th century (like Alexander Hamilton’s country retreat, the Grange) became a popular place for wealthy New Yorkers to enjoy harness racing by carriage or sleigh after the Civil War.
That was due to the official opening of St. Nicholas Avenue—a broad, 80-block boulevard running from about Central Park to the wilds of Upper Manhattan. Before it was widened into St. Nicholas Avenue, the road was known as Harlem Lane (third image).
In the 1880s, however, developers arrived, hoping to capitalize on St. Nicholas Avenue’s carriage and trotter cache. One of these developers snapped up land stretching to the corner of 146th Street and hired an architect to design five row houses.
Described as “Victorian Romanesque” by the Landmarks Preservation Commission (LPC) in a 2000 historic designation report, the first four row houses, Numbers 713 to 719, were splendid confections of brownstone and brick turrets, gables, and dormers.
But the real showpiece was Number 721. Larger than its sister houses, it featured a curved tower with a flat roof, plus what the LPC report described as a “mansard roof with slate tiles,” “dormer with scrolled gable,” and a “paneled, brick parapet.”
Some would describe this house as storybook-like, something mysterious and delightful from a fairy tale. Others found it pretentious, like Christopher Gray, who called it “bulbous” and a “hot-air balloon of masonry” in a 2009 New York Times column.
Both descriptions might fit. But in the Gilded Age, when home-buyers sought out Queen-Anne style row houses with lots of decorative doo-dads, 713-721 St. Nicholas Avenue would have commanded attention. These would be white home-buyers, as Harlem’s transformation into the center of African American life in New York was a few decades away.
Who occupied Number 721 on the corner? The first residents in its earliest days are unclear. But by 1898, the house was purchased by an organization called the Heights Club, a “newly formed club” composed of upper-class residents who held an inaugural “smoker” in March 1898 where images viewed through a stereoscope made for the entertainment.
By the early 1900s, the Heights Club was gone, replaced by the Barnard School, a boys’ college preparatory school. The school held sports events called the Barnard School Games at the Kingsbridge Armory and invited other schools to compete.
When the Barnard School departed is a mystery. But in 1925 with Prohibition the law of the land, the ground floor of Number 721 transformed into a speakeasy. The Silver Dollar Cafe was considered one of the first speaks in this part of Harlem, now known as Hamilton Heights or Sugar Hill, according to the LPC report.
The Silver Dollar Cafe “became the Seven-Two-One Club following Prohibition,” per the LPC report. “The spot featured local jazz talent, such as the Kaiser Marshall Trio, Harlem Harley’s Washboard Band, and the Ernie Henry Band.” The space operated until 1964. (Below, in 1940)
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In the ensuing years, numbers 713-717 have had commercial spaces installed on the ground floor, replacing the stoops. That, along with the alteration of other original details, made for the loss of “the genteel appearance with which they faced the carriages and sleighs of the avenue,” wrote Gray.
What’s next in the life of Number 721? It looks like this storybook survivor has been marketed as a condo building with five separate units, according to a Streeteasy description.
Imagine what it would be like making your home here and feeling the phantoms of the trotters, club-goers, schoolboys, secret drinkers, and jazz trios who occupied this space in its earliest, most colorful years.
[Third image: NYPL Digital Collections; fifth image: MCNY F2011.33.193; sixth image: NYC Department of Records & Information Services]