Sip Happens
Glorified far beyond its modest beginnings as the fruit of the vine, wine has fallen victim to classism, elitism, and pretension. Buying a bottle sight unseen can feel as confounding as taking the bar exam without having attended a single lecture, and potentially just as expensive. Setting aside the rites and rituals, pomp and ceremony that seem like exclusive insider information, it doesn’t need to be that way. Wine is for everyone, which is the ethos and inspiration behind Sixty Vines. Succinctly named for the sixty wines on tap, this Texas-born establishment is changing the wine landscape, quite literally, for the better.
Having just sprouted last month in The Domain, this is thirteenth location of the thriving restaurant group. Commanding a massive open space with high ceilings, walls of windows, and long communal tables, the use of space feels downright luxurious. Outside, you have the option of dining al fresco on the dog-friendly patio, perfect for the whole family.
The benefits of offering wine on tap are multi-fold. There’s no risk in trying something new and getting stuck with a lackluster, pricey full bottle. Never had an orange wine before? Curious about the difference between a Malbec and a Merlot? This is the place to find out. If you go in completely blind, with no prior knowledge of wine whatsoever, you’ll be graciously guided without judgement all the same.
If you’re like me and want to try a little bit of everything, customized tasting flights available in 2.5-, 5-, or 8-ounce pours are much more feasible without getting a wicked hangover later. Kegged wines are also much fresher than bottles that are repeatedly opened and exposed to air. From a sustainability standpoint, one keg holds the equivalent of 26 bottles, which adds up to much less material going into landfills.
Just as wine shouldn’t be reserved for the elite few, neither should the wine bar experience itself. Thoughtfully rounding out the drink menu with craft cocktails and equally creative non-alcoholic cocktails, every visitor will find something that’s a refreshing change of pace.
This spirit of hospitality extends to all facets of the menu. Items are clearly labeled as gluten-free, vegetarian, and vegan, but there’s much more room for nuance between those crisply printed insignias. Don’t be afraid to ask for adjustments, as most meatless offerings can be made completely plant-based. Case in point, the Crispy Zucchini is typically dipped in a buttermilk batter, but a soda wash is easily substituted upon request, and request you should. More substantial and meaty than potato chips, they’re crisp indeed, but also tender and juicy, coated in a sweet chili lacquer with blistered shishitos on top for garnish.
Similarly, ask for no cheese on the Hummus and you’re good to go. It’s a two-for-one prize that includes both edamame and beet spreads, although surprisingly, no chickpeas are involved in either. Relying solely on the creamy richness of tahini and glassy olive oil to create incredibly compelling spreads, a touch of cumin rounds out the fresh flavors, as well as the impressively short list of ingredients.
Making the case for carb-on-carb action, the Broccolini & Potato Pizza is the standout entree that immediately told me the chefs had real ambitions for inclusion here. Vegan by default, there’s no red sauce lurking beneath that velvety cashew blanket, despite what the deceptively rich flavor imparted by slow roasted cherry tomatoes may lead you to believe. A thin, gently charred crust supports the tender toppings that blend together harmoniously, ensuring that no one will walk away from the bar hungry.
Wine and all its trappings deserves to be enjoyed without all the ceremony or status. Sixty Vines is making a splash to shift that perspective, creating a space for novices, solo sippers, first dates, happy hours, and larger events, too. Even for non-drinkers, you’ll find plenty of reasons to say “cheers!”
Sixty Vines
3401 Esperanza Crossing
Austin, TX 78758
Risk It For The Brisket
Brisket, historically a cheap cut of tough, barely edible meat, has come to be revered by aficionados across the globe. Some call it the “holy grail” of Jewish food, especially when the holiday season rolls around, and even more so when you factor in the difficulty of veganizing such a time-honored culinary tradition. Given the scrutiny placed on such an important centerpiece, it’s one I’ve never even felt capable of attempting.
Until now.
Brisket: A Celebratory Centerpiece
Growing up, Hanukkah dinner meant extra-crispy latkes, two or three types of homemade applesauce, and a heaping serving of brisket, cut into slick slabs that fell apart on the plate, dripping with juice. It was a point of honor when my Nana, the matriarch of meat, passed the torch to my own mother by sharing her secret recipe. The secret being powdered onion soup mix and lots of time. Three hours in the oven, an overnight rest, and then however long it takes to slowly, gently reheat the roast for the festive meal. There’s just not much to it besides meat and onions; every ingredient counts.
On that note at least, the same can be said for my plant-based rendition, a distinct departure from the beef-soaked ghost of holidays past. Where most vegan brisket recipes fail is by using just a big hunk of seitan, meaty but monotonous, without the distinct shredded texture of dissolved sinew cut against the grain, cooked into velvety submission. After the great success of my drumsticks, I knew I had the answer: finely shredded Sugimoto shiitake caps, blending into a matrix of seitan and meaty seasonings, the way to go.
Tasteful Textures
Moreover, this grand roast employs jackfruit and fresh enoki mushrooms to enhance that illusion, adding ample umami and a satisfying bite all the while. It’s a production compared to your average meatloaf, but it still takes less time than the original article. Since there’s no pesky cartilage to break down, you can slash the cooking time in half. Of course, there’s the added benefit of having no pesky cartilage in the first place.
Souped Up Supper
Onion soup mix is still an essential ingredient, but not in the same way as before. Skip the packaged blends with loads of fillers and milk solids; Sugimoto shiitake powder creates an incredibly rich, rounded depth of flavor alongside dried onion flakes, which you can buy ready-made or dehydrate yourself. This could be a stand-alone pantry staple for making instant chip dips, rice pilaf, more flavorful burgers, elevated vegetables, and, to state the obvious, soup.
A Brief Brisket Primer
Brisket means many things to many people, but at its core, simply refers to a prime cut of beef. Jewish brisket is made of the same stuff as Texan brisket; the difference is in the cooking. Texan brisket is the crowning achievement of any pit master, the litmus test determining their ability. Deeply smoked from a low and slow process that can take anywhere from 18 to 24 hours, each bite is intense and heady. Sometimes it comes crusted in a highly spiced rub, or slathered in BBQ sauce, lacquered with that sweet, tangy, spicy finish. Jewish brisket, on the other hand, sometimes called pot roast (especially if made in a slow cooker) is baked, braised, stewed, or slow-cooked for 3 to 6 hours in a flavorful liquid with plenty of onions. Always, always, lot of onions.
If you wanted to take this Jewish-style brisket and make into a barbecue feast, simply increase the liquid smoke to 2 teaspoons and brush it liberally with your favorite BBQ sauce 15 minutes before it’s done baking, and then once more right out of the oven. Or, if you happen to have an actual smoker, do your magic with the roast as is.
Brisket Tips and Tricks
This is not a quick-fix meal; never has been, never will be. Part of what makes it so special is how much time and care it takes to come to fruition. The most important piece of advice I can give you for making a meatless brisket is to have patience, plan ahead, and relish the leftovers. Prep and bake the brisket the day before, so all you need to do is reheat it for the big event. It only gets better as it sits, becoming more tender and intensely flavorful. Leftovers keep beautifully in the fridge for at least a week, and can be frozen for around 6 months. That is, if you’re lucky enough to save a few pieces. It may look like a beast of a roast, but trust me, it disappears fast.
Brisket isn’t just for Hanukkah. It’s a prime guest of honor at any important gathering, from Passover to Thanksgiving, birthdays to summer barbecues. Finally, with a genuinely meatless option that might even make my great-grandparents proud, there’s even more to celebrate.
Wordless Wednesday: Bet The Ranch
Oat Yeah
Once an undistinguished pantry staple, oats have seen one of the greatest glow-ups of our time. As we navigate an era increasingly focused on sustainable, whole foods, oats are not just for breakfast anymore—they’ve become a versatile building block for culinary creativity, essential throughout all meals.
Historically, oats have been a mainstay in the diets of various cultures for centuries. However, originally cultivated in the cooler climates of Europe, they were often deemed fit only for livestock. It wasn’t until the 18th century that oats began to find their place in human cuisine, with recipes ranging from hearty porridge to oatcakes. Fast forward to today, and these grains are celebrated not only for their rich, nutty flavor, but also for their nutritional prowess. In a forbidding landscape of food allergies and dietary restrictions, oats offer a safe haven for all to partake.
In addition to their health benefits, oats have sparked a wave of food innovations. There’s nothing they can’t do, from creamy risottos to decadent frozen desserts, showcasing their adaptability at every turn. Beyond the kitchen, the rise of oat milk has revolutionized the beverage industry, providing a creamy, dairy-free alternative that’s both eco-friendly and delicious. The fact that it’s now the default milk of choice in many coffee shops, even offered before dairy milk, speaks volumes.
There’s no such thing as having too many oats. Should you find yourself with a sizable stockpile, I have just the recipe (or 25) for you.
Get A Cobb On
Salads shouldn’t just be a side dish or an after thought. Down with wilted iceberg lettuce and stale croutons! I’m all about those hefty, fully loaded meal salads that have tons of color, texture, and flavor going on. The classic Cobb is a good example of that, traditionally piled high with meats, cheese, and eggs. On top of my obvious vegan conversions, I wanted to take a more seasonal approach for a new, novel Autumn Cobb Salad.
Vegan Innovations
To start with the vegan adaptations, we can replace traditional proteins with plant-based alternatives that not only complement the dish but enhance it. Instead of crispy bacon, consider using pecans seasoned with a smoky flavor to provide that quintessential crunch. Hard-boiled eggs can be swapped out for hearty, diced potatoes, seasoned with sulfurous kala namak, which lend a satisfying creaminess without sacrificing substance. For the chicken, chickpeas are an excellent choice, adding protein and a nutty flavor that ties the salad together.
Seasonal Swaps
Seasonality is the secret ingredient that can transform an ordinary salad into something truly special. In this fall feature, pomegranate arils take the place of conventional tomatoes, infusing each bite with a burst of sweetness and vibrant color. Instead of the typical scallions or chives, opt for pickled onions. Their tangy crunch elevates the flavor profile and adds depth.
When it comes to greens, we’re turning to shredded collard greens instead of the usual lettuce. This hearty green not only provides a more robust texture but also aligns perfectly with the season’s bounty. Finally, rather than dressing the salad with traditional ranch, a maple-balsamic vinaigrette introduces a balance of sweetness and acidity, capturing the essence of fall in every drop.
Timeless Staples
Even amidst these changes, there are certain staples that remain unassailable. Creamy avocado adds richness to the dish, while a sprinkle of vegan blue cheese, store-bought or homemade, provides that unmistakable funk, rounding out the flavor experience perfectly.
Salad Days Are Here Again
Salads can be so much more than an afterthought. With a little creativity and a focus on seasonal ingredients, they can take center stage as a nourishing, satisfying meal. Say goodbye to the wilted greens of the past and hello to a vibrant, fully loaded salad that you’ll want to dig into all autumn long.