For Oyster Season in Atlanta, the “R” Month Rule May Be Outdated

Growing up on the coast of South Carolina, cold weather meant oyster season — along with dark beer, mulled wine, and homemade soup. In Atlanta, though, it was a different story. Many people were ordering a raw dozen in mid-July. Months with “R” in them, everyone always said, is when to enjoy oysters (Georgia’s recreational harvesting season for oysters opened on October 1). So, is it safe to slurp down this treat in a Southern summer? Is there a difference in taste between summer and winter oysters in Atlanta?

“The wives’ tale of eating oysters in months with an R is from before refrigeration when an oyster could actually harm or even kill you,” says Eli Kirshstein, culinary director at seafood and gourmet distributor Inland Foods. “We’ve gotten to a place where oyster harvesting is safe and sustainable.”

A year-round oyster farm

It’s called aquaculture — when shellfish are grown in a controlled environment, making it possible to eat raw oysters year-round. Aquaculture environments are controlled — the oysters still live in the ocean and have a more predictable existence than their wild counterparts. Think of it like wild-caught salmon versus the farm-raised variety.

But it’s not just their cushy life that makes aquacultured oysters safe to eat. Once the oysters are harvested, they are placed on a refrigerated truck and checked periodically for quality and freshness every few hours. These regulations, known as the Molluscan Shellfish Protocol, were put into place on a federal level by the National Shellfish Sanitation Program.

Roberto’s Deluxe Oysters

Plenty of restaurants across the country sell aquaculture oysters. Take Roberto’s Deluxe Oysters and Fine Fish in Woodstock, which offers the Merepoints from Maine, billed as salty, sweet, and creamy; the Barnstables from Massachusetts, which are briny with seaweed finish; and the best of the bunch, the Hama Hama from Washington, which are clean, crisp, and briny.

These varieties are just as available in June or July as they are on a chilly November afternoon. Chefs say aquaculture gives them a consistent product, plus, it allows restaurants to plan their oyster menus further in advance.

Seasons and weather matter, just not as much

Still, those who associate the winter season with an ice-cold oyster dressed with lemon or mignonette have a point — oysters are different in the winter. This is because their flavor profiles change with their environment — they are, after all, the official filter of the sea. But chances are, you won’t notice, says Nico Moellering-Baratas, general manager of Alici Oyster Bar in Midtown.

“I would say the average oyster lover won’t be able to tell anything [apart] unless you’ve had that exact same type of oyster before, then you might be able to tell,” he says.

Two oysters from Florida are on the menu at Alici: the Sharkbite, which is small, plump, and briny, and the Saucy Lady, which is a medium to large variety, and creamy with a mineral finish.

According to Moellering-Baratas, Florida oysters have been a rarer commodity this year. Hurricane Milton, which hit the state in early October, dispersed many aquaculture habitats for fresh oysters, making it difficult to control the water temperature. So, even though the two Floridian varieties (both delicious, by the way) were not wild-caught, they were still rare.

Are wild-caught oysters better?

Sarah Hope Barber at Bowen’s Island Restaurant in Charleston says not only are aquaculture oysters of equal quality, but the iconic seafood restaurant recently started serving them in an effort to keep up with demand.

“Up until three years ago, we had only wild-caught oysters,” says Barber. ”Now we buy from a few local companies. Charleston Oyster Farm oysters taste similar to the wild ones — they’re raised in Folly Creek.”

Many would disagree and say wild-caught oysters have a distinct sense of place. Since aquaculture oysters are farmed in natural settings, they, too, take on the regional flavor. When ordering, it’s best to ask restaurant servers about the oysters on the menu and where they come from. No two oysters are the same, even if they are from a similar area.

“There are five species of oysters available in North America, and of those five, they have preferences of where they like to grow,” says Phil Schneider, lead oyster purchaser at Inland Foods. “We work with Chesapeake Bay, the ocean side and the bay side. There are only 20 miles between those two types of oysters — but it dramatically affects their flavor profiles.”

So, it’s up to the individual, and if they can even detect a taste difference between wild-caught oysters and aquaculture ones. For Atlanta serving icy oyster platters throughout the year, rest easy knowing that even a midsummer’s mollusk is fine to throw back.

“I think people should feel fine about eating oysters year-round,” says Kirshstein. “If you’re in a reputable establishment, you can feel confident.”