Sewing Techniques For Lingerie
Sewing Techniques For Lingerie
FOR LINGERIE
Lingerie is arguably one of
the most complex
categories of clothing.
SEAM EDGE
AND
FINISHES
Seams are the point at
which two pieces of
fabric join together.
TYPES OF SEAMS
Overlocked seam
- overlocked seams are arguably one of the most common type found in
lingerie.
They are one of the quickest and easiest to construct with the stitch ‘sealing’
the raw edge of the fabric in a single operation.
FRENCH SEAM
This type of seam is most commonly found in high end
lingerie, as it requires more accuracy and time.
There is a minimum of two stitch operations required to
create this seam, with additional trimming and pressing to
achieve a good finish.
RAW SEAM
This type of seam has no kind of stitch
finishing.
Fabric is typically joined with a lockstitch and
the raw fabric edges left as they are.
TAPED SEAM
This type of seam is covered by a tape.
The seam allowance (the fabric 'space' required to
stitch two panels together) can either be pressed
open or to one side with the tape applied on top.
Some tapes form a channel that perform a
function, such as underwire and bone
casings (these will enclose the bra
underwires and bones at bra side seams or
basques).
BUTTED SEAM
Butted seams are typically found in very thick fabrics, like
bra foam.
Rather than stitching along a seam allowance, the garment
panels are cut with no seam allowance and are
sewn over to join the two panels.
This type of seam is generally only found in bra foam cups
or heavier weight athletic wear.
It gives a very flat seam finish. In bra cups this type of seam
will typically be taped over, so it can be difficult to spot
SEAM
FINISHES
SELVAGE FINISH
Appropriate for straight seams of
woven fabrics, it requires adjusting
the pattern layout so that the
seam is cut on the selvage.
STITCHED AND PINKED
SEAM FINISH