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FINDING YOUR ROLLEIFLEX TLR, - 1B

Harry Fleenor

harry@[Link] [Link]
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Warning – Disclaimer

This report is designed to provide information on buying Rolleiflex TLRs. It

is not the purpose of this report to re-print all information that is otherwise
available. You are urged to read all other material on this subject.
For more information see the sources and the ones at the end of this paper.
Every effort has been made to make this report as accurate as possible.
However there may be mistakes both typographical and content. Therefore this
should be used as a general guide and not as the ultimate source for this
information.
The serial number ranges give a general reference. I have seen Rolleiflex TLRs
that were out of these ranges.
The purpose of this report is to educate and entertain. The author shall have
neither liability nor responsibility to any person or entity with respect to any
loss or damage, caused or alleged to have been caused directly or indirectly, by
information contained in this report.
By buying this report you are agreeing to be bound by the above.

I will give you my insights, as a Rollei repairman, (since 1966) how you can
choose the best Rolleiflex TLR for photography, your collection and pride of
ownership?

harry@[Link] [Link]
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Which Rolleiflex model should you buy?

1) Features

2) Price

3) Best optics

4) Testing

5) Best Mechanically

6) Most Reliable

7) Most collectable

8) Best re-sale value

9) Models to avoid

10) Questions to ask the seller

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Which Rolleiflex model should you buy?

1) Features,

Here, I will help you decide on the features. For example the Rolleiflex 2.8F has
a removable hood, meter, and front controls that link to the meter follow pointer.
This model also has a high re-sale value. The highest value depends mostly on
cosmetics.
Like new in the box, a Rolleiflex 2.8F may go for over $2000.00. A “user” will sell
for around $700.00.

If you don’t need the removable hood or meter, you can find a good Automat X
for around $200.00. In either case you need to budget around $300.00 for
overhauling the shutter and transport and minor repairs so that you will have a
Rolleiflex that works like new. After a few decades, the lubricants will evaporate.

Transport Mechanism

The Rolleiflex TLRs, including Rolleiflex 2.8F, 3.5F, Rolleiflex 2.8E-3, 2.8E-2,
2.8E, 2.8D, 2.8C, , 2.8B, 2.8A, Rolleiflex 3.5E-3, 3.5E-2, 3.5E, 3.5, Automat X,
3.5 Automat MX, Automat MX E-V, Tele Rolleiflex and Wide-Angle Rolleiflex,
have basically the same transport mechanism.

This is very well designed and can remain reliable for decades. The main
bearing has grooves for lubricant. The main bearing also holds 2 spring loaded
plastic pins that help to smoothen the winding and increase the life of the
bearing.

Using this mechanism you transport the film and simultaneously cock the shutter
by pulling out the wind handle and turning it in a clockwise direction until it stops.
It will automatically stop on the first frame. You then turn the wind crank
counterclockwise until it stops.

In this position it will be locked until you fire the shutter. This prevents accidental
double exposure. Then you can wind to the next frame etc. These models
(except the 2.8A, 2.8C***) also have double exposure capability.

Shutter

*** Rolleiflex 2.8F, 3.5F, 2.8E-3, 2.8E-2, 2.8E, 3.5E-3, 3.5E-2, 3.5E, , T,
Rolleicord Vb, Va and V have the newer synchro compur shutter.

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Rolleiflex 2.8D, 2.8C, 2.8B, 3.5, Automat X, 3.5 Automat MX, Automat MX E-V
have the older synchro coumpur shutter.

The Rolleicord transport mechanism is very reliable. The Rolleiflex T was made
for the amateur market and is not built for heavy use.
EVS coupling

The Rolleiflex Automat starting from serial #1.464.000 has the EVS coupling
system. The shutter speed and aperture settings lock on an EVS setting.

On the MX-EVS type 1 (serial number 1464000 to 149999) you can disengage
the interlocking shutter and aperture control wheel only by continuously pressing
the center button on the aperture control. The Rolleiflex 2.8D uses this same
system. This may be an inconvenience for some owners.

Starting with the MX-EVS type 2 the EVS coupling can be locked or unlocked by
turning the center button on the aperture control wheel 90 degrees. The E
models, Tele and Wide also use this EVS system. This system is more
convenient since you can lock or unlock it.

The Rolleiflex 3.5F type 1 and 2 (serial #2200000 to 2249999) have cross
coupling of the shutter and aperture controls that are coupled by a complex
planetary gearing system.

Some people like this system. However, I’ve found that most have trouble
adapting to using it.
Rollei simplified these controls on the next model (starting with serial #2250000).

The rest of the 3.5F models and the 2.8F models do not have these EVS interlocks.
However, the shutter and aperture controls are connected to the meter follow
pointer needle.

Removable hood

Rolleiflex 2.8F, 3.5F, Rolleiflex 2.8E-3, 2.8E-2, Rolleiflex 3.5E-3, 3.5E-2, Tele
Rolleiflex and Wide-Angle Rolleiflex have removable hood capability and you can
easily interchange viewfinders and screens.

The Rolleicord Vb and the Rolleiflex T model 2 also have removable hood
capability.

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The C and D models have plastic shutter release locks and sync. Connector
locks. These break easily and are not replaceable because these parts are no
longer available. One neat feature on the C and D is the adjustable viewfinder
magnifier. It will move up from the normal focusing position to compensate for
far-sighted eyes.

2) Price

For the best price you are looking at the Rolleiflex Automats made in the early
1950s or the Rolleicords made at the same time or the B, C, D or T.

However for the best *value* I recommend a Rolleiflex F model or one of the Es.
These models may cost a little more, however they are consistently high quality
and reliable. You’ll enjoy using these models and they have a good re sale value.
Also the maintenance costs will be a lower percentage of the value.

3) Optics

There is an ongoing debate among Rollei users as to which is better, Schneider

lenses of Zeiss lenses?

Glass, when it is made, does not always come out the same from element to
element even if they are the same formula made side by side. Even if it is
designed by computer as it is now, it still takes a technician to choose the best
elements and to put together a set.

Rollei had a very tight tolerance in the lens quality that they accepted. The Rollei
factory was very picky, especially from the 1950s forward. I have noticed less
variation in lens quality in lenses made after 1950 than those made in the 1940s.

All these lenses fall into a very tight tolerance and they are all basically very high
quality. However there is still some variation. I have found lenses that were soft
and had obviously escaped the quality control.

The quality of the lens depends on the technician that puts it together. All of
these lenses will be very good. However some are exceptional and some are
below average.

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I had a friend ask me to test a Rolleiflex 3.5F for him, especially the lens quality. I
examined it and advised him that this particular lens looked soft. I told him not to
buy it.

However, he insisted on buying it anyway. So I told him to offer a lower price. He

bought it and paid full price. Then, after he used it for a while, he came back to
me and asked me to adjust it so that is sharper.

I told him that this one is just a soft lens and there is nothing that I can do.

A few years later, after Rollei of America folded, I went into business and needed
a photo for my business card. I had my photo taken with this same camera and it
looked fine on the card. This just shows that even a poor Rollei lens is still high
quality comparing to what else is out there.

4) Checking the appearance of the lens.

Defects in the lens will lower the value of the Rolleiflex considerably. The
legendary German lens quality is the most important reason for using a Rolleiflex.
I wouldn’t want a compromised lens. However, I’ve taken a lot of great photos
with an exceptionally sharp lens on a Rolleiflex 2.8F that has a chip on the front
surface of the taking lens. This camera takes great photos even though the re-
sale value is diminished by the chip on the lens.

The most important factor when buying a Rolleiflex is the lens The Rolleiflex is
very sound mechanically and it is a very good medium format film camera. But
let’s face it the lens makes the camera. The Rolleiflex has some of the best
lenses ever made from Zeiss and Schneider. So you want a clean lens.

Does the lens have any defects?

- scratches
- chips
- fungi
- separation
- haze
- fog - etc.

The chips or other defects may not affect the image if they are small. So if you
want you can offer a lower price and get a deal if it has a small defect. Or you
can demand a perfect lens. They are out there. You just have to find them.

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Buying online I would steer clear of any Rolleiflex that the seller says has lens
defects however.

Defects to look for

* Chips

I usually see chips on the front surface or rear surface of the taking
lens. Sometimes I find chips on the front surface of the viewing lens.
Chips occur on other elements but they are rare.

Chips that are .5mm or larger are easily seen with a good light. I have also
seen a lot of very light chips that are not obvious and take some effort to
see.

You can examine the lens by locking the shutter open on “B”,(* Adjust the
shutter speed to “B”, * cock the shutter *push the shutter release down
and turn the shutter button lock to keep the shutter open, open the
aperture to wide open), then viewing toward a light from the back and
front you will then easily see any defects in the lens.

Please note that the Rolleiflex lenses are not sealed. So dust particles can
easily get into the elements. Don’t panic if you see a couple of dust
specks. These are normal and will not affect the photo quality.

If the chips are not too deep, a shop that does lens repairs like Focal Point
in Colorado can polish them out and re-coat the lens.

* Scratches

Most scratches are caused by unskillful attempts to clean the lens. If any
abrasive particles are on the lens before applying the pressure of the lens
cleaning tissue or cloth a scratch or scratches will result.

Also a lens without a lens cap or case will attract scratches and chips.

* Coating breakdown

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When you see discoloration splotch patterns it may be a coating
breakdown problem.

* Separation

You’ll see separation as a discoloration pattern along the edges of an

internal element.

* Fungi

Fungi look like an irregular growth pattern. Sometimes they appear like
little spider shapes or star shapes.

If this is caught early it can be cleaned easily. However, if the fungi has
grown for a while and eaten into the glass, you’ll need a fungi repair.

* Fogging

Sometimes a lens will look like it has a fog all over it. Fogging can be any
of the above problems all over the lens.

5) Testing

Testing the lens for quality

When you first get your Rolleiflex you want to test it before your trial period runs
out, in case you want to return it. So you may not have time to have the focus
adjusted and a new screen installed.

The best test for lens quality is to take a roll of photos. The best subject is several
objects at different distances.

If you take a photo with objects at different distances you will find something in
the photo that is the sharpest. This will give you an idea about the potential
quality that you can expect from that lens when it is adjusted.

If you have taken photos with a high quality camera before, you will already know
what you are looking for in the photo. If you see it in this sharpest spot then you
have a camera that you can put into shape for photography. If this sharpest spot
doesn’t meet your expectation, you need to send that one back and keep looking.

If you don’t have experience with high quality photography and you don’t know
how to tell if this is a lens that you want from the photo, I will be happy to

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examine it in the Rollei collimator. However the final judge of lens quality is in the
photos.

Testing the shutter

Usually the first speed that indicates that your shutter needs help is one second.
You can test the shutter by firing one second. It usually takes approximately one
second to say “one thousand one”. You will hear and see if the shutter is slower
or faster.

Test the shutter with the focus at infinity and three feet. Notice if the shutter is
working normally or it hanging up or not firing.

Testing the transport

Wind the transport handle and check it for stiffness. After several decades the
lubricants evaporate and it may need and overhaul. Next, test it with film.

You can use the same roll of film to test the transport on several Rolleiflex TLRs
by taping the film to the paper on both ends. This way you can run it back and
forth.
Look for stiffness, skipping frames, not stopping at #1 or any other abnormality.

Note: Be sure to feed the film between the film feeler rollers when loading.

Checking overall

Is it in a Case? Rolleiflex TLRs that I receive for repairs with a case are cleaner,
have less external wear and are usually in better mechanical condition.

Is the body clean, without dents, discoloration, fungi, smoke smell, peeling
leather or leatherette?

Is the viewfinder screen clean and bright? Does the hood open smoothly?

6) Best mechanically,

The best, Rolleiflex TLRs, mechanically are the E model, the F models and the
Wide and Tele with the exception of the first 2 models of the Rolleiflex 3.5F that
had the “gear shutter”.

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All of these are basically the same mechanically with minor differences in the
controls and metering for the E and F. They all have the same robust transport
mechanism and the focusing mechanisms work the same.

The Rolleicord models are also very reliable with their simple mechanics.

7) Most reliable

Rolleiflex TLRs, mechanically are the Automats made in the early 1950s the X,
MX and MX-EVS, the E model, the F models and the Wide and Tele with the
exception of the first 2 models of the Rolleiflex 3.5F that had the “gear shutter”,
are also the most reliable because of their tough mechanics.

The Rolleicord Vb, Va and V are also very reliable because of the simple
transport.

The Rolleiflex T was not made for heavy use.

Reliability can be increased in any model by storing properly, cleaning and TLC.

8) Most collectable

The most collectable Rolleiflex is probably the Rollei-Wide because of the limited
number made. Next is the newest version of the Rolleiflex 2.8F with a Zeiss
Planar lens and a “whiteface”. The “whiteface” is a designation created by
collectors because of the extra room on the nameplate below the taking lens that
the serial number is printed on.

Collectors also like the Rolleiflex 3.5F with a 6 element Zeiss Planar lens. I have
seen extremely sharp 6 element lenses and some that were just average. See
above under Optics.
The Rolleicord Vb is also bringing respectable prices.
Collectors only want the best examples of these in “like new” condition.

If you are considering your Rolleiflex purchase as an investment you might want
to purchase one of these models and keep it in “like new” condition.

9) Models to avoid

At the top of this list are the Rolleimagics, both I and II. I would also avoid any
Rolleiflex made before 1950 if you want to use it for Photography. These older
cameras are fun to collect as I have some of these models myself for decoration
purposes only.

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Also I would avoid Baby Rollei 4x4. However these models may be fun to collect
but I do not service them.

Other models,

What about the models that didn’t fit in any of the above categories?

Well, the new models, GX, FX etc. are fine and have the advantage of TTL
metering and HFT coating on the lenses.
However the GX and FX were built on either the Rolleicord or the T body. I’ve
heard both. These don’t have the film feeler mechanism and the transport
mechanism is modified from the original Rolleiflex mechanism. The shutter
release tends to be a little stiff because you are pushing a switch that turns on
the meter when you release the shutter. Also these models are quite a bit more
expensive.

Still, these are great examples of the Rolleiflex quality and any Rollei user will be
happy with the lens quality.

The earlier models of the Rolleicord have fewer features than the Rolleicord Vb
and have fixed instead of removable hoods.

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10)Questions to ask the seller

There are 2 questions you should ask any seller in person or online,

#1 – Can I have a week or two to return it?

#2 – Does the lens have any defects such as,

- scratches
- chips
- fungi
- separation
- haze - fog - etc.?

Storing

Be sure to store your Rolleiflex in a cool, dry place. If it is to be stored a while put
it in the case or a plastic bag with some dessicant packets.

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Rolleiflex TLR 220 Modifications

These modifications are possible on ,

Rolleiflex TLRs, (including Rolleiflex 2.8F, 3.5F, Rolleiflex 2.8E-3, 2.8E-2, 2.8E,
2.8D, 2.8C, , 2.8B, 2.8A, Rolleiflex 3.5E-3, 3.5E-2, 3.5E, 3.5, Automat X, 3.5
Automat MX, Automat MX E-V, Tele Rolleiflex and the Wide-Angle Rolleiflex).

Rollei originally offered 2 different 220 modifications.

#1) A switch by the strap lug.

To use 220 film you expose the first 12 then push the switch foreword. This
returns the counter to zero. Then you advance to #1 the second time and expose
the second 12.

I offer this modification for $124.-- plus any repairs needed to the transport
mechanism.

#2) A switch by the wind handle with the numbers 12/24 on it.
To use 220 film, start with the number "24" on the top. After you expose the
first 12 the advance will not work until you flip the switch so that the number "12"
is on the top. Then you advance to #1 the second time and expose the second
12. Parts for this modification are no longer available.

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Date your Rollei TLR Guide - Rolleiflex TLR models with Fixed Focusing Hood

Rollei TLR Model Serial Numbers Bay size Introduced

Rolleiflex 3.5 X Synch 1100000-1169999 I 1950
Rolleiflex 3.5 M-X Synch 1200000-1427999 I 1951
Rolleiflex 3.5 M-X E-V 1428000-1499999 I 1954
1700000-1737911 I 1954
Rolleiflex 3.5E Exp. Meter 1740000-1869000 II 1956
Rolleiflex 2.8A 2.8 Tessar X - MX 1101000-1204999 Spec Hood 1950
Rolleiflex 2.8B 2.8 Biometer 1204000-1260000 III 1951
Rolleiflex 2.8C 2.8 Planar 1260350-1299999 III 1953
2.8 Xenotar 1444000-1475405 III 1953
Rolleiflex 2.8D E-V Scale 1600000-1620999 III 1955
Rolleiflex 2.8E Exp. Meter 1621000-1665999 III 1956
Rolleicord III X SYNCH 1137000-1344051 I 1950
Rolleicord IV M-X Synch 1344051-1390999 I 1953
Rolleicord V M-X - E-V Scale 1500000-1583999 I 1955
Rolleicord Va 5-format 1584000-1599999 I 1957
1900000-1943999 I 1957
Rolleiflex 4X4 127 film 2000000-2099999 I 1957

Rolleiflex TLR models with Removable Focusing Hood

Rollei TLR Model Serial Numbers Bay size Introduced

Rolleiflex 3.5E-2 1st issue 1870000-1872999 II 1959
Rolleiflex 3.5E-2 Xenotar MX EV 2480000-2482999 II 1961
Rolleiflex 3.5E-3 MX EV 2380000-2385034 II 1962
Rolleiflex 2.8E-2 MX EV 2350000-2356999 III 1959
Rolleiflex 2.8E-3 MX EV 2360000-2362024 III 1962
Rolleiflex T Tessar 2100000-......... I 1958
Rolleiflex 3.5F Ring gear shutter 2200000-2229000 II 1959
Rolleiflex 3.5F Ring gear shutter 2230000-2249999 II 1960
Rolleiflex 3.5F Coupled meter 2250000-2815050 II 1961
Tele Rolleiflex 4/0 135mm Sonnar 2300000-2304999 III 1959
Rolleiflex 2.8F Coupled meter 2400000-2452850 III 1960
Rollei Magic 3.5 Xenar 2500000-2534999 II 1960

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Wide-Angle Rollei 4.0/55 Distagon 2490000-2493999 IV 1961

Rollei Magic II Auto and Manual 2525000-2547597 II 1962
Rolleicord Vb 3.5 Xenar 2600000-......... I 1962
Rolleiflex 3.5F Coupled meter 2815000-......... II 1969
Rolleiflex 2.8F Coupled meter 2451851-......... III 1969
Tele Rolleiflex 4.0/135 Sonnar 2305000-......... III 1970

Use this as a general guide only. I have seen Rolleiflex serial numbers out of
these ranges.

Need a brighter screen?

The Maxwell screen's fresnel, split image and microprism have a fast "action", so
when the focus adjustment is changed you perceive a difference. It seems to
*snap* into focus.

I stock 2 Maxwell screens.

#1), The Maxwell screen with a rule of thirds grid, split image and
a micro prism ring. It is very bright and *snaps* into focus nicely.
This screen is great if you have any vision problems, wear glasses
or like to use focus aids.

#2), The Maxwell plain Hi-Lux screen with a grid. The Hi-Lux screen,
plain with a grid is slightly brighter and the fresnel snaps into focus
nicely.

Why should you have Harry install your new focusing screen?

-When I install your screen, I also adjust the focus of both the taking
lens and the viewfinder. (Other needed focusing mechanism repairs
and/or other repairs are extra.)

- When many people are looking for a new screen it is because they
are experiencing a focus problem.

- Finding a Rolleiflex that is within factory focusing tolerance is a rare

occurrence.

- In most cases, both lenses need to be adjusted.

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- There are differences in the focus adjustment among screens. This is
true of the original factory screens and non-factory replacement
screens.

- To take the fullest advantage of the Rolleiflex optics, the taking lens
and the viewfinder should be in precise focus adjustment. This is a lot
more likely if the focus is adjusted when the new screen is installed.
There are many variables in photography and I wouldn't want to have
to compensate for the focus adjustment. (By shooting at f8 or smaller,
avoiding close up photos that have limited depth of field etc.)

- The Maxwell screens are easily damaged by mishandling.

- Some replacement screens also need a spacer to compensate for the

difference in thickness between the new screen and the old one. This
is not a focus adjustment. Cleaning lenses,

Most or the cameras I receive for repair have very dirty lenses and some
have what the customer describes as "cleaning marks". There's no such thing
as cleaning marks. call them what they are - scratches! They may be very
light scratches only penetrating the coating, but they are scratches. How do
you keep the lenses clean and avoid scratches?

Practice

Experience is the most important tool in cleaning lenses as it is in

anything that requires skill.

Have you seen an optician clean a pair of glasses? He does it quickly

and easily. And he gets them sparkling clean. And he leaves no
scratches. How does he do that? - Practice, practice, practice. He
cleans several pair a day 250 days a year. That is the professional
secret! Just practice.

So -- Don't practice on a fine, expensive optic like those found on

Rolleis. Practice with some old piece of glass that you won't cry about
when those "cleaning marks" appear. An old pair of glasses, a cheap
pair of binoculars an old point and shoot camera, or any other
worthless piece of glass. Keep practicing until you are consistently
successful before cleaning your Rollei lens.

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Tools,

You will need some lens cleaner. Any water based lens cleaner is ok.
For some stubborn dirt particles you can use some denatured alcohol.
Get an air blower. I've found that one of the handiest portable air
blowers is an ear syringe you can buy at the local drug store. You can
also use an air compressor but be sure there is no oil or water in the
air line. You'll need a soft brush. A sable brush is ideal. Also use some
soft lens cleaning tissue and Q-tips. The lens tissue sold at camera
stores is best for sensitive surfaces such as plastic viewfinder screens.

Technique

First blow off whatever particles you can with the air blower, and then
use the sable brush. Now all the looser particles are gone and usually
this includes the largest ones, the ones that cause scratches.

Rule number one - Be gentle! - Don't scrub or rub or use force in any
way to clean a fine optic!

Take a lens cleaning tissue and add some lens cleaner. Wipe the dirt
off *gently* in a circular pattern starting from the center of the lens and
working your way in a spiraling pattern to the edges. Then take a dry
tissue and repeat *gently*. If there is any dirt left try to clean it with a Q-
tip *gently*. If there is still some stubborn dirt try alcohol *gently*.

Other sources of information.

COLLECTORS GUIDE TO ROLLEI CAMERAS, by ARTHUR EVANS

COMPLETE ROLLEI TLR COLLECTOR’S GUIDE, by Ian Parker

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• The Rollei-List email group
• The Rolleiusers email group
• The book - "Rollei Users, A collection of photographs"
Edited by Daniel Ridings
• Rollei (Germany)
• Rolleiflex SL 66 Club Web Site.
• Global Rollei Club
• Re-Stitching a Camera Case
• 220 instructions
• Paul's Primer on Beginning with Rolleiflex TLRs
• Rolleiflex Factory at work
• Loading film in a Rolleiflex - YouTube
• Rolleikin Installation - YouTube

History of Rolleiflex models

By Sui Fai Au [Link]

Please contact Harry Fleenor with questions or comments at:

Email <harry@[Link]>

Address
Oceanside Camera Repair
909 Aviation Blvd. #4
Manhattan Beach, Ca 90266

Phone: 310 374 6506 [Link]

Servicing Rolleiflex since 1966, 15 years of that time in the factory

service centers of Honeywell and Rollei of America, Harry Fleenor is
recommended in "Collector's Guide to Rollei Cameras"..

Repairing Rolleiflex TLRs, (including Rolleiflex 2.8F, 3.5F, Rolleiflex 2.8E-3,

2.8E-2, 2.8E, 2.8D, 2.8C, , 2.8B, 2.8A, Rolleiflex 3.5E-3, 3.5E-2, 3.5E, 3.5,
Automat X, 3.5 Automat MX, Automat MX E-V, Tele Rolleiflex, Wide-Angle
Rolleiflex, Rolleicord Vb, Va, V and IV,) Rollei SL66 and Rollei 35.

I don't service the Rolleiflex T, Rollei Magic, Baby Rollei 4x4, Rolleicord I, II,
III, the Original Rolleiflex or the Standard Rolleiflex

harry@[Link] [Link]