Fitting the Fast & Easy way with... Sure-Fit Designs™ Pg.

Flared Dress
FLARED DRESS by Elsabe Hurn for Sure-Fit Designs
The Flared Dress is drafted using your Dress Kit body blueprint. This simple, feminine design
sports a boat (or bateau) neckline, cap sleeves, and a skirt that is flared from the waist to the
hem to fall gracefully over your hips. Best made from knit fabric with 25% to 40% crosswise
stretch and minimal lengthwise stretch, this dress will be your go-to garment when a casual,
comfortable design is the order of the day. This dress can be made from so many different
fabrics, including cotton knit, rayon knit, DTY knit, rayon spandex, double brushed knit, scuba
crepe, viscose knit, rib knit, polyester knit, mélange knit, roma, french terry, and interlock knit
(ITY). The pink maxi-length dress sample uses 3 1/4 yards (3 meters) of 58” to 60” wide double
brushed DTY poly/spandex knit with 25% to 30% crosswise stretch and a slight vertical give.

NOTIONS:
 Matching Thread
 Compatible Fusible Stretch Interfacing (e.g., tricot)
 Fusible Hem Tape

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Pattern Preparation
a. Trace the Bodice Front without seam allowances from your Dress Kit body blueprint onto a piece of
tracing vellum longer than the desired dress length.
b. Mark the center front and grainlines.
c. Trace the Bodice Back without seam allowances from your Dress Kit body blueprint onto a piece of
tracing vellum longer than the desired dress length.
d. Mark the center back and grainlines.
e. Trace the short Knit Sleeve without seam allowances from your Dress Kit body blueprint onto a
piece of tracing vellum.
f. Mark the grainline.
2. Dress Front
TIP: For the maxi version, measure from your waist to your ankle to get the correct length to
add; measure from your waist to your knee for the shorter version.
a. Extend the center front down to the desired finished length of the dress.
b. Draw the hemline at a right angle to the center front.
c. Size down for knit fabric:
i. Mark a dot on the shoulder line 1/4" (0.6 cm) in from the shoulder point.
ii. Mark a dot on the armscye 1/2" (1.3 cm) in from the underarm point.
iii. Mark a dot on the waistline from 1/2 to the full waist dart intake amount in from the side
waistline point. The amount of the dart intake you remove will depend on how fitted you want
the waist of your dress to be.
TIP: If you use fabric with more than 40% crosswise stretch, you will need to size down
accordingly. You may prefer to size down more than 1/2" (1.3 cm) when sewing with
40% plus crosswise ease. Try basting the side seams, then adjust for personal
preference. Refer to Sewing with Knit/Stretchy Fabric on page 6 of the Dress Kit
Instruction book.

Copyright© 2021, Sure-Fit Designs™ Ranita Corporation, Star, Idaho. All rights reserved.
Fitting the Fast & Easy way with... Sure-Fit Designs™ Pg. 2
d. Redraw the armscye, connecting the shoulder point dot and the underarm point dot, and keeping
the armscye length the same as the original front armscye length.
TIP: Trace your original front armscye on a separate piece of tracing vellum, and place
the tracing under your drafted front pattern, lining up the shoulder and underarm
points with the new shoulder point and underarm dots. Trace the armscye. This will
ensure your sleeve will fit.
e. Draw the boat neckline:
i. Mark a dot on the shoulder line 1 1/2" to 2” (4 to 5 cm) in from the new shoulder point. Make
the new shoulder line longer or shorter depending on how wide you want your boat neckline.
ii. For a traditional boat neckline, raise the center front neck point up 1/2" (1.3 cm). If you prefer a
lower neckline, you can use the original front neck point.
iii. Draw the new neckline in a gentle curve,
connecting the new shoulder neck point and
the center front neck point, and maintaining a
right angle at center front.
f. Draw the front neck facing. Refer to page 22 of the
Dress Kit Instruction book.
g. Move the side bust dart to the armscye. Refer to
page 24 of the Dress Kit Instruction book for dart
manipulation instructions. Refer to the page 23 of
Beyond Bodice Basics for armscye dart placement.
h. Draw the new side seam in a straight line from the
underarm dot to the waistline dot.
TIP: In the final step of adding seam allowances to all required edges, be sure to
perfect/true the armscye seam allowance to achieve the correct cutting line for the
dart. Refer to video D.7.i Perfecting (Truing) the Bust Dart Extension found in
www.SFDLearningCenter.com.

Copyright© 2021, Sure-Fit Designs™ Ranita Corporation, Star, Idaho. All rights reserved.
Fitting the Fast & Easy way with... Sure-Fit Designs™ Pg. 3
4. Dress Back
a. Extend the center back down to the desired finished length of the dress.
b. Draw the hemline at a right angle to the center back.
c. Size down for knit fabric:
i. Mark a dot on the shoulder line 1/4" (0.6 cm) from the shoulder point.
ii. Mark a dot on the armscye 1/2" (1.3 cm) from the underarm point.
iii. Mark a dot on the waistline from 1/2 to the full waist dart intake amount
in from the side waistline point. The amount of the dart intake will be the
same ratio removed from the front.
d. Redraw the armscye, connecting the shoulder point dot and underarm point
dot, and keeping the armscye length the same as the original back armscye
length.
TIP: Trace your original back armscye on a separate piece of
tracing vellum, and place the tracing under your drafted back
pattern, lining up the shoulder and underarm points with the
new shoulder point and underarm dots. Trace the armscye.
This will ensure your sleeve will fit.
e. Draw the boat neckline:
i. Mark a dot on the shoulder line the same distance from the new
shoulder point as you did on the Dress Front.
ii. Lower the center back neck point 1/2" (1.3 cm).
iii. Draw the new neckline in a gentle curve,
connecting the new shoulder neck point and the
center back neck point, and maintaining a right
angle at center back.
iv. True the neckline with the Dress Front so that
the neckline forms a curved V at the shoulder
seam.
f. Draw the back neck facing. Refer to page 22 of the
Dress Kit Instruction book.
g. Draw the new side seam in a straight line from the
underarm dot to the waistline dot.
5. Sleeve
NOTE: Be sure to use your Dress Kit Knit Sleeve blueprint when drafting the Cap
Sleeve.
a. Draw the cap sleeve. Refer to page 26 of the Dress Kit Instruction book.

Copyright© 2021, Sure-Fit Designs™ Ranita Corporation, Star, Idaho. All rights reserved.
Fitting the Fast & Easy way with... Sure-Fit Designs™ Pg. 4
6. Skirt
NOTE: The following instructions apply to both the front and back. Illustrations show the knee-length version front
only.
a. Draw the side seam in a vertical line from the waist to the hemline, maintaining a right angle at the
hemline.
b. Draw a horizontal line parallel to the hemline to indicate your full hip level. This line will be placed at the
largest circumference below your waist.
c. Draw evenly spaced vertical slash lines from the waistline to the hemline.
d. On the side seam, mark a dot 1/2" (1.3 cm) up from the waistline.
e. On the slash line to the left of the side seam, mark a dot approximately 2 1/2” (6.4 cm) below the
waistline.
f. Mark a dot on each remaining slash line approximately 3” (7.6 cm) below the waistline.
g. Working from left to right, connect each slash line dot to the top of the next slash line with an angled line.
h. Cut each slash line to the waistline, then cut along each angled line to the waistline, leaving a tiny hinge
at the waistline. This allows flaring the skirt without impacting the level of the waistline.
i. Place a new piece of tracing vellum under the skirt pattern, and tape down the center front / center back
securely.
j. Measure the full hip width, and the distance from the waistline.
k. On the bottom piece of vellum, mark a vertical line down to your full hip level from your waistline, and 1/4
of your full hip measurement away from center front / center back.
l. Pivot the side skirt piece until the full hip line meets the vertical line on the bottom piece of vellum. This
will determine the width of the skirt flare so that it fits comfortably over your hips.
TIP: If your waist measurement is greater than your hip measurement, use the hemline as your guide to flare
out the dress. You determine how much flare you prefer.
m. Tape the side seam securely to the bottom piece of vellum.
n. Pivot the remaining slashed sections of the skirt, spacing
them evenly.
o. Tape all remaining slashed sections securely to the bottom
piece of vellum.
p. Redraw the hem, curving it to match the new hemline
created by flaring the skirt.
q. Redraw the side seam at the waist to create a pleasing
curve.
r. True the side seams so that the front and back shape and
length match exactly.
7. Seam & Hem Allowances
a. On the Dress Front, add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to
all edges, except the hem.
b. On the Dress Front, add a 1/2” (1.3 cm) hem allowance.
c. On the Dress Back, add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to
all edges, except the hem.
d. On the Dress Back, add a 1/2” (1.3 cm) hem allowance.
e. On the Neck Facing Front, add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam
allowances to the neckline and shoulder edges.
f. On the Neck Facing Back, add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to the neckline and shoulder edges.
g. On the Sleeve, add 5/8” (1.6 cm) seam allowances to all edges, except the hem.
h. On the Sleeve, add a 1/4” to 3/8” (0.6 to 1.0 cm) hem allowance.

Copyright© 2021, Sure-Fit Designs™ Ranita Corporation, Star, Idaho. All rights reserved.
Fitting the Fast & Easy way with... Sure-Fit Designs™ Pg. 5
8. Pattern Pieces with Markings

Copyright© 2021, Sure-Fit Designs™ Ranita Corporation, Star, Idaho. All rights reserved.
Fitting the Fast & Easy way with... Sure-Fit Designs™ Pg. 6
GENERAL SEWING CONSTRUCTION STEPS:
TIP 1: You can use your serger/overlocker or sewing machine when sewing your dress. If using your sewing machine,
use the stretch stitch/lightning bolt stitch or small zigzag stitch. The zigzag setting should be 2.5 mm stitch length
and 1.0 mm stitch width.
TIP 2: Preferred seam finishes for knits include
(choose one):
 Serge/overlock the seam allowances.
 Sew another row of stitching 1/4" (6 mm)
from the seam line in the seam allowance;
trim excess fabric close to the stitches to
keep the seams flat and prevent seam
edges from rolling.
1. Stabilizing
a. Fuse a narrow strip of hem tape or lightweight
interfacing to the following locations:
i. wrong side of the front neck edge
ii. wrong side of the front shoulder line
iii. wrong side of the front hem
iv. wrong side of the back neck edge
v. wrong side of the back shoulder line
vi. wrong side of the back hem.
b. Interface the wrong side of the Front Neck Facing with fusible stretch interfacing.
c. Interface the wrong side of the Back Neck Facing with fusible stretch interfacing.
2. Darts
a. Stitch the darts in the Dress Front.
3. Shoulder Seams
a. With right sides together, stitch the Front Neck Facing
to the Back Neck Facing at the shoulder seams.
b. Finish the facing edge using your desired method.
c. With right sides together, stitch the Dress Front to the Dress Back at the shoulder seams.
d. Press the seam allowances open.
e. Finish the seam allowances using your desired method.
4. Neckline
a. With right sides together, stitch the facing to the dress at the neckline.
b. Trim and grade the seam allowances, clip once or twice on either side of the shoulder
seam, and notch into the corner at the shoulder seam.
c. Turn the facing to the inside, and press.
d. Understitch the facing to the seam allowances using a narrow zigzag, being careful not to
stretch the neckline. This will help prevent the facing from rolling to the outside of the
garment.

Copyright© 2021, Sure-Fit Designs™ Ranita Corporation, Star, Idaho. All rights reserved.
Fitting the Fast & Easy way with... Sure-Fit Designs™ Pg. 7
5. Sleeve
a. With right sides together, stitch the Sleeve cap to the dress armscye.
b. Press the seam allowances toward the Sleeve.
c. Finish the seam allowances using your desired method.
d. With right sides together, stitch the side and sleeve underarm seams in one continuous seam
from the dress hem up to the sleeve hem.
e. Press up the cap sleeve hem allowance.
f. Stitch the hem using two rows of stitching, a double needle, or a cover stitch.
TIP 1: When serging/overlocking a single layer to finish a hem allowance edge, cut a
strip of your fashion fabric on the same grain, and serge/overlock them
together with the strip on the wrong side of the dress. This will allow the hem
to stretch around your arm. Refer to Elsabe’s Overlocker Tips on YouTube
starting at the 5:52 minutes mark.
TIP 2: When using a double needle, place a strip of wash-away stabilizer to prevent a
pucker between the two rows of stitching.
g. Finish the seam allowances using your desired method, and press.
6. Finishing
a. Press up the hem allowance.
b. Stitch the hem using a double needle or a cover stitch.
TIP 1: If stitching the hem using a straight stitch, set the stitch length to 3 to 4 mm.
TIP 2: When using a double needle, place a strip of wash-away stabilizer to prevent a pucker between the two
rows of stitching.
c. Secure the neck facings by stitching in the ditch for a few stitches on the shoulder seams close to the shoulder point.

NOTE: In addition to this Fashion Leaflet, Elsabe Hurn has provided the Flared Dress Design and Sew-Along at
www.SureFitAcademySA.com.

Copyright© 2021, Sure-Fit Designs™ Ranita Corporation, Star, Idaho. All rights reserved.
Fitting the Fast & Easy way with... Sure-Fit Designs™ Pg. 8

Maxi Dress Knee-Length Dress

Copyright© 2021, Sure-Fit Designs™ Ranita Corporation, Star, Idaho. All rights reserved.