Introduction

Clothing selection and construction continues to challenge the abilities of those, who have learned
to appreciate more than a visual impression of newest fashion. Understanding the technical
aspects of apparel construction gives tools through which creativity and individuality may be
expressed. In addition, sewing helps to develop self-confidence and imagination.

An important step in clothing construction is the mastery of the basic concepts. Clothing
construction concepts includes ‘Words’ or ‘Terms’ which are frequently used with each word
conveying a special meaning to the ultimate end users.

Glossary of sewing terms

ALTER: To change or modify the shape, size and position of various constructional lines in the
garment to fit the individual exactly or as desired. This alteration is made by increasing or
decreasing the depth of the seams, darts, fullness etc.

ALLOWANCE: An extra fabric which can be used to accommodate gathers,

ease, tucks and pleats or during alteration of a garment.

ARMSEYE: Arm hole of a garment.

BESPOKE: A means of holding two pieces of fabric together with a long open hand stitch, in
preparation for the permanent stitch.

BIAS: The diagonal line formed when a piece of fabric is folded so that the crosswise threads run in
the same direction as the lengthwise threads. A true bias makes an angle of 450 across the length-wise
and width-wise grain and has the maximum stretch.
BINDING: Enclosing of the raw edge of a garment section by another section.

BLOCK PATTERN: Also called as basic pattern or master pattern or sloper, with the
basic darts made to a set of special measurement for an individual or in standard size. It is used like a
template. A set of block patterns consist of front bodice, back bodice, sleeve, front skirt and back skirt.
It is usually made without seam and hem allowances and style.

BODICE: Close-fitted upper part of women’s dress, down to the waistline.

CLIP/SLASH: A small cut made in the seam allowance of a pattern, which allows a curved area to
spread and lie flat.

CUTTING LINE: The line marked on pattern pieces parallel to and outside the stitching line.

CUTTER OR TRIMMER: A small tool used to trim thread ends after stitching.
CONSTRUCTIONAL LINES: The lines on which the garment is stitched to fit an individual
perfectly. The construction lines in the garment always match with imaginary constructional lines of
the silhouette. They are also called stitch lines.

CREASE: A pressed fold line.

DART: A triangular folded fabric stitched to a point at one end and used for fitting the fabric to body
curves.

DESIGNER: A person who is able to sketch and produce the original styles for the garment trade.

DRAFT: A sketch or plan of a garment; working out the style on a flat piece of paper from the block
patterns.

DRAFTING: A system of drawing patterns on paper with mechanical precision on the basis of body
measurements.

DRAPING: A method of pattern making in which patterns are made directly by draping material on
the figure or a model or a dress form.

EASE: The extra allowance of fabric allowed in a pattern design for ease of movement, breathing etc.,
unlike any form of fullness. It is also the difference measurement between the stitching line and the
actual body measurement along that line.

FACE OF THE FABRIC: The right side of fabric.

FACING: A shaped or bias piece of self-fabric applied to the raw edges in a garment as a finish and to
support the shape of neckline, armhole, collar etc.

FASTENERS: The mechanical aids that helps to close an opening of a garment. Ex: Buttons,

press buttons, zippers, hooks and eyes are called fasteners.

FINDINGS / NOTIONS: Any extra items attached to a garment during the manufacturing process.
This can include trims, buttons, hooks, snaps, or embellishments.

FITTING: A process of making a garment fit the body with optimum ease for movement and its seam
lines following the silhouette of the body.

FLAWS: Defects in material, caused by faults in weaving and finishing of the fabric. These can be
marked for visibility during fabric cutting. Before cutting any fabric, it is advisable to examine the
material carefully for imperfections/damage and to mark any damaged part with chalk or pins, to
avoid those parts in a garment.

FRAYING: The threads that tend to come out from raw cut edges during handling of fabric. It is also
termed as ravelling.

FULLNESS: Addition made to the basic block meant to give good shape, proper fit and allow
freedom of movement and comfort. Ex: Gathers, Pleats, Tucks etc.

GRAIN: The direction of warp and weft yarns in a woven fabric. The grain running parallel to the
selvedge is length-wise grain and the grain running from selvedge to selvedge is the cross-wise grain.

GUSSET: A shaped piece of fabric inserted usually at the underarm and crotch of a
garment to provide freedom of movement.
LAYOUT: An economical arrangement of pattern pieces on fabric to ensure proper
cutting.
LINING: A fabric used inside the garments made of sheer or coarse fabric. This is added for support.

MITER: Diagonal seaming of two edges at a corner to reduce bulk.

MUSLIN: An inexpensive, medium weight, plain weave, low count (less than 160 threads per square
inch) cotton fabric. In its unfinished form, it is commonly used in fashion design to make trial
garments for conducting preliminary fit.

NAP: It is a fuzzy surface on the fabric produced by a special finishing process.

NOTCH: Small V-shaped cuttings made within the seam allowance of garment section to match
design details or to serve as a balance mark.

PIVOT: It refers to a way of stitching a sharp corner by keeping the needle in the fabric raising
machine presser foot, turning the fabric to desired angle, lower the foot and to continue stitching.

PLACKET: A finished opening in a garment that allows for ease in dressing and undressing.

RAW EDGE: Any unfinished edge.

SEAM: A means by which two pieces of fabric or parts of a garment are joined together.

SEAM ALLOWANCE: The fabric edge that extends beyond the stitching line. This is a minimum
extension without which a seam cannot be done.

SELVEDGE: The self-edge or finished edged of a woven fabric that runs parallel to the warp threads.

SILHOUETTE: The shape, outline or profile of a garment when it is worn.

SLASH: An even cut in the pattern or a fabric along a straight line, longer than a clip.

TRIM: To cut off ragged edges or a part of seam allowance, to prevent it from being bulky and to give
neat seam edges.

TRIMMINGS: Ornamental decorative additions used on garments.

YARDAGE: The quantity of fabric needed to make a specific garment.

References

1. Labanya, M and Vastala, R, 2004, Textbook of Fundamentals of Clothing Construction,

ICAR, New Delhi.
2. Thomos, A.J 1993, The art of sewing , UBS Publishers, Bombay.
3. Armstrong, H.J 1986, Pattern Making for fashion Design. Harper and Row , New York
4. Lewis, V.S 1984, Comparative Clothing Construction Techniques. Surjeet Publication,
New Delhi.
5. Horn, M J 1981, Second Skin, Hounghton Muffin, London.
6. http://www.stitchrippers.com/forum/topics/sewing-terminology

FUNDAMENTALS OF CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION 3(1+2)

Lesson 2 : Sewing Equipment and Tools

Introduction

In today’s fashion era greater importance is given to well fitted comfortable garments. Garment
construction starts with correct measurements on hand used in drafting patterns, cutting and
stitching the fabric. Each of these steps requires some tools and equipment for quick and accurate
work. Knowledge of the equipments is very important to communicate effectively in the
workroom and to minimize errors.
FUNDAMENTALS OF CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION 3(1+2)
Lesson 2 : Sewing Equipment and Tools
Classification of tools used in clothing construction

Clothing construction requires a variety of tools that can be classified into the following
categories:

 Measuring Tools
 Marking Tools
 Cutting Tools
 Fitting Tools
 Sewing Tools
 Finishing / Pressing Tools
 General Tools
Using the right tool will help make the garment construction easier. These tools help increase the
accuracy of the finished product, saves time and also simplify tasks.

Measuring tools

The following are the commonly used measuring tools for garment construction

1. Measuring tape

2. Ruler or Yard Stick

3. L -square or Tailor’s Square

4. Hem marker/skirt marker

5. Gauge

Measuring tape

Tape should be of good quality with a smooth surface and with metal tipped ends
that prevent the tapes from raveling. At one end of the tape the metal tip is long (3”)
and is used when vertical measurements are taken. The other end has a short metal
tip with a small hole at the centre. This side is used in taking circumference
measurements. The small hole aids in drawing circle of perfect measure. Tape is
marked with centimeters as well as inches to facilitate the conversion from one
system to another. Generally tapes are of 150 centimeters (60 inches) long. The best
tape choice is a flexible synthetic or fiberglass, which will not tear or stretch.
Ruler or Yard Stick

Ruler or yard stick is the best device for taking long, straight measurements on
paper. Sticks of good quality and that are smoothly finished should be used. Ruler of
15 cm to 30 cm long and yard stick of 1.5 meter scale marked in centimeters and
inches are commonly used.

L -square or Tailor’s Square

It resembles the letter L – with perfect right angled corner. It is more accurate than
ruler and convenient for measuring skirt lengths or straight lines of material before
starting pattern layout. It is made of good quality, light weight, smoothly finished
hardwood. Sometimes it is available with French curve, useful to mark corners,
perpendiculars and curves of the pattern.

Hem marker/skirt marker

A hem marker is used to measure skirt hem lengths evenly from the floor. It
provides much quicker and more accurate method of marking hems than yardstick.
It is available in various types- Pin marker, chalk marker and combination of pin
and chalk marker .Pattern maker usually prefers pin marker because of its accuracy.
The chalk marker is convenient because it is self administered aid that enables a
person to mark her/ his own hem lines.

Gauge

A gauge is useful to mark areas where constant measurement is desired. It is ideal

for marking hems, tucks, top stitching lines, pleats, buttonhole placements and
lengths. It can also be used as stitching gauge for measuring distances that are not
marked on the sewing machine. A gauge can be made for any measurements
according to the pattern requirement. Notches can be cut on the guage for marking
on the fabric.

Lesson 2 : Sewing Equipment and Tools

Marking tools
1. Tailor’s chalk

2. Marking Pencil

3. Tracing Wheel

4. Dress Maker’s Carbon Paper

Tailor’s chalk

Most commonly used dress maker’s marking tool is tailors chalk and it is made of
either clay or wax. It is available in various colours like white, yellow, blue, red etc
with different sizes and shapes which facilitates quick and efficient marking. Wax
based tailor’s chalk is available in a 2 inch square white colour piece, mainly used for
marking woolen fabrics. Tailors chalk is very safe because it does not leave any stain
or permanent marking on the material. Light brushing is sufficient to rub off the
marked lines completely.

Marking Pencil

These are convenient and precise tools for marking cutting and stitching lines.
These are available in white and pastel colours. Since the marking pencil is made of
wax, the coloured lines can be removed by simple washing.

Tracing Wheel

It is used with or without dressmaker’s carbon paper to transfer pattern

marking onto the fabric. Tracing wheel is about 15 cm in length, having a wheel
with saw-like periphery, which is connected by means of stem and at the rear
end with a convenient handle. Tracing wheels are available in variety of edges
1) Needle-point wheel, makes a faint line that is desirable on fine thin fabrics. 2)
A serrated edge produces a prominent line that is good for marking heavy,
loosely woven fabrics, deep points are more effective on thicker fabrics. 3) A
smooth wheel is recommended for delicate fabrics such as velvet and knit that
are subjected to snagging and are damaged by other types of wheels. Use of
tracing wheel in conjunction with a carbon paper is very safe, because it does
not leave any coloured markings, but a line of tiny dots remain which are
temporary.

Dress Maker’s Carbon Paper

By using carbon paper constructional details such as shape of the pattern, cutting
and stitching line can easily be transferred on the material. These are available in
white and several colours.

Care to be exercised while using carbon paper.

1. No carbon markings should never be placed on the right side of fabric.

2. No lines to be marked boldly.
3. The colour of the carbon must not show through the fabric.
4. If the garment is underlined, marking may be made on the underlining
only.
5. White carbon paper is recommended for colour fabrics, because it is
removed easily during cleaning.

Cuttingtools

Scissors and shears are the important tools to the dress maker. Various types and
sizes of scissors and shears are designed to perform different constructional work.
Common working principles of scissors and shears are similar but their application
is different. Visually one can easily differentiate scissors and shears - shears have
one finger ring bigger than the other for better grip while cutting thick or several
layers of patterns. Whereas scissors have identical round finger rings. A separate
pair of scissors or shears should be kept for cutting the cloth and the paper pattern.

The following types of shears and scissors are used in clothing construction.

1. Shears
2. Scissors
3. Rotary cutter

Shears

1. Dress making shears

2. Bent-handle shears

3. Electric shears

4. Pinking shears

5. Serrated blade shears

Dress making shears

Dress making shears are heavy duty scissors which are designed specifically with

the needs of seamstresses in mind.

The distinguishing feature of dressmaker's shears is that the handle is offset from

the blades, allowing them to be used to cut fabric against a flat surface without
distortion. In shears, one of the finger rings is typically larger than the other. In
industrial terms, the finger rings on scissors and shears are known as “bows”. The
large bow of a shear is usually on the side of the blade which points towards the
floor when in use. The length of the blade varies from 25 to 30 cm.

The edges of dressmaker's shears are typically ground with a beveled edge and they
are extremely sharp. It is important to keep shears, sharp to avoid mangling of the
fabric, as specially while cutting multiple layers of fabric at a time for efficient
cutting.

Dressmaker's shears are not symmetrical, as they are available in both right and

left-handed versions to facilitate comfortable use. It is important to use
dressmaker's shears which are engineered for dominant hand, as it reduces the risk
of injury and makes work more comfortable. It is also a good idea to try out a pair
of shears before use, to make sure that they are comfortable in handling. Shears are
available in different materials from heavy brass to very light weight materials.
Some have rivets at the crossing of two blades.

Bent-handle shears

These shears have straight blades with a handle that is off-set at an angle allowing

the lower blade to stay flat on a cutting surface. The design of the handle allows the
bottom blade to rest on the flat surface below the fabric without lifting the fabric
from the flat surface. The blade size is less than 15 cm long. Sharp shears are the key
to prevent hand fatigue and accurate cutting along pattern lines.

Electric shears

These are used in most sample rooms. Electric shear is a type of hand tool suitable
for a variety of cutting applications. They are essentially battery-powered shears.
Electric shears are also known as power scissors or cordless scissors. They resemble
a utility knife with dual crossing blades on the end rather than a single blade, but a
few models are designed slightly different. Most varieties are powered by alkaline
batteries, but a few are powered by rechargeable batteries. They are ideal for cutting
silk, nylon, and soft, hard-to-cut fabric.

Pinking shears

They produce a notched cutting line (zig zag) which gives a neat appearance to the
inside of garments, as these shears have saw tooth blades.

These shears are used for pinking seams or decorative edges on felt, suede, chintz,
etc. They are used to add a ravel-resistant seam finish to loosely woven fabric. It
automatically notches and reduces bulk in seams and creates a decorative finish.
Blade lengths range from 7" to 10 1/2" and are available in lightweight models, as
well as scalloping shears for a more rounded effect.

Serrated blade shears
Serrated blade shears range in size from 7 to 8 inches with offset blunt-shaped
blades, one of which is serrated. Blades are joined by an adjustable bolt and
designed with equally sized ring handles. These shears are excellent for cutting
polyester and other synthetics, knits, lingerie, silk, rayon and other slippery fabrics.

Scissors

Scissors are hand operated cutting instruments. They are 5 to 6 inches long, used
for light cutting, trimming, clipping corners and cutting curves. They are designed
for snipping threads and trimming seams. They are also used for cutting various
thin materials, such as paper, cardboard, metal foil, thin plastic, cloth, rope and
wire.

1. EMBROIDERY SCISSORS:
These are light weight cutting scissors with 3 to 4 inches in size with narrow
blade tapering into two sharp points. Blades are joined by a pin, screw or
rivet and designed with two evenly sized ring handles. These scissors are
ideal for clipping and notching, trimming fabric from delicate
appliqués, embroidery and snipping thread tails.

2. BUTTON HOLE SCISSORS:

These scissors are adjusted to cut button holes of required length. They are
greatly used when many button holes are to be made. Buttonhole scissors
have a special adjustable screw for securing them partially open as per the
length of buttonhole required. This open position translates to a precise
cutting length (usually between 1/2" and 1 1/4") that prevents cutting of the
stitches at the buttonhole end.

3. TRIMMING SCISSORS:
These are used for trimming or clipping seams and cutting corners, and are
generally 15 to 17.5 cm long with narrow blades and tapered sharp points.

4. SNIPPING SCISSORS:
These are spring-action clippers with or without a finger loop featuring very
short blades for cutting thread tails and clipping seams quickly.

1. CARE GUIDELINES WHILE USING SHEARS AND SCISSORS:

1. Take long strokes using the length of the blades.
2. Do not use fabric-cutting scissors for cutting paper or other non fabric materials.
3. Wipe scissors with dry cloth after each use. This is especially important after cutting
polyesters and other synthetics, since lint from these manmade fibers is abrasive and
can dull the blades.
4. Keep the cutting blades sharp. Scissors and shears may be sharpened using a
professional-style electric sharpener or they may be sent to a professional sharpening
service.
5. Occasionally oil the pivot screw with a tiny drop of sewing machine oil. Open and
close the blades few times, then wipe the blades with a soft cloth.
6. Don't force a cut -this can deform the blades or spread them permanently.
7. Store scissors or shears in a box or pouch.
8. Never drop shears on the floor, it looses its sharpness.
Rotary cutter

This tool helps in cutting more than five layers of cloth at a time. It is electrically operated having a round circular shaped
blade with a guard in the front of the blade. It is generally used in small garment manufacturing units. There are several
sizes and types of rotary cutters available. Blade sizes range from 18 mm to 60 mm in diameter. Smaller diameter blades
make cutting out curves and details much easier; whereas the larger-diameter blades make quick work of long, straight
cuts.

Fitting tools

Flexible Spline: It is mainly used to determine the crotch depth as well as front and back crotch
length measurements. It is also used to compare the front and back waist-to-crotch contour and
length of the pattern.

French Curve / Tailor’s Curve: The main function of the curve stick is to give shape especially
at neckline, arm hole, waist, crotch etc. It is made up of good quality wood or plastic with shaped
curves marked in inches. Sometimes it is also used for measuring the length of the curve that is
shaped.

Sewing tools

The correct selection of sewing thread and needle prior to garment assembly is

essential in order to achieve required finish to the garment.

The importance of thread and needle is often under estimated though fundamental

to garment construction i.e. forming of stitches and subsequently joining of seams.
Without hand and machine needle the construction work is incomplete. Clothing
industry has demanded the development of threads and needles of various sizes and
shapes to cope up with advanced technology at which the garments are
manufactured with minimum machine troubles.

1. Needle
2. Sewing threads
3. Sewing aids

Needle

Needles are classified as follows

1. Hand sewing needles

2. Machine sewing needle

Hand sewing needles

A hand sewing needle is a long, slender steel shaft, with an eye at one end. The shaft tapers to a fine
ball point tip or wedge end. These needles function to carry the thread through the fabric while hand
sewing. Needles are designed in a variety of sizes, types, and classifications developed according to
specific use.

For each needle type, sizes range from a low number, (coarse needle) to higher number (finer needle).
Diameter of the needle shaft increases proportionately at the eye end according to the length and size.

Hand needles are selected according to the following factors

1. Structure of fabric
2. Weight and type of fabric
3. Type of thread
4. Size and weight of thread and
5. Intended use
The needles available for hand sewing are specified below

1. Ball point needle
A needle is designed with a rounded tip and a small round eye, designated as medium length,
sizes range from 5 to 10 for knits and lingerie fabrics. Ball point needle slides between the
yarns instead of piercing as it penetrates the fabric. It reduces occurrence of holes and runs
in fabrics such as jersey and tricot.

2. Ball point needle
This needle is very fine, long with a small round eye used for beadwork, sewing sequins, pearls,
etc.

3. Betweens
A needle designed with a small rounded eye and designated as short length; sizes range from 1
to 12 to produce short fine stitches as in tailoring, handwork and open work

4. Crewels/embroidery
A needle is designed with a long oval eye and designated as medium length; sizes range from 1
to 12 to carry multiple strands of thread for embroidery.

5. Chenille
Large-eye needle with sharp point for ribbon embroidery,

6. Darners
A coarse needle designed with a large, long oval eye. Designated as long length, the sizes range
from 14 to 18. It can carry multiple strands of thread for weaving on loosely woven woolen and
open weave knit fabrics.

7. Sharps
A needle with a small rounded eye and of medium length is called the sharp. Sizes range from 1
to 12. These are general purpose needles with sharp point for sewing and appliqué

8. Tapestry
Large-eyed needle with a blunt point for cross stitch, needle point and for stitching knitted
items.

Machine sewing needles

Sewing machine needles are made up of steel. They are manufactured in different sizes and types
for both industrial and home sewing machines. Size range from fine to coarse and are chosen
with regard to interaction of yarn of the fabric and size of thread. Higher numbers indicate
thicker points and coarser needles. Needles are standardized and classified with regard to the
type and model number of machine on which they are used.

There are many different kinds of needles among which majority of sewing needles are listed
below

1. Ball-point needles are used for sewing knits and meshes. The rounded tip of
this needle passes between the fibers of the fabric.
2. Sharp-point needles are used for sewing fine woven fabrics. The pointed, sharp tip
pierces the fibers of the fabric.
3. Universal point needles can be used for sewing both knits and woven’s. It is an
excellent needle for general sewing use.
4. Denim needles are used for sewing heavy, dense fabrics such as denim.
5. Leather needles have a wedge-shaped tip for punching through leather, even for
heavy vinyl and similar fabrics. Care should be taken while sewing with these needles as
they leave large holes on removal of stitches.

Sewing threads
Sewing thread is an integral component of the garment though it is often invisible.
Typically, the cost of thread is less than 5% of the retail selling price of the garment
but 50% of the responsibility of the garment’s performance is dependent on sewing
thread.

A wide variety of threads from cotton, polyester, polycot to rayon are available for
varied uses. It is customary to use cotton thread or cotton materials and polyester
or polycot thread for synthetics. Rayon threads are used for embroidery work.

Sewing aids

 DRESSMAKER’S PINS:
Comes in different sizes for use in different fabrics for holding
of fabrics together temporarily before machining. These are long
slender pins with highly polished finish and a fine tip for easy
penetration into fabric without puckering it.

 THIMBLE:
A sewing thimble protects the middle finger of the right hand
while hand sewing. Helps to push needles through the material
being sewn and to prevent fingers getting pierced by the needle.

 SEAM RIPPER:
A seam ripper is used to remove and pick out unwanted stitches/threads.
The fine tip of a seam ripper picks out single thread and cuts it.

 NEEDLE THREADER:
It can be used for both hand and machine needles to push the wire
through needle eye.

Seam roll

A seam roll is a firmly packed cylindrical cushion with a cotton cover on one half
and wool on the other. The wool absorbs moisture rapidly preventing it from
"returning to the work." The soft rounded surface prevents a ridge from forming,
when seams are pressed open. It is also small enough to fit into sleeves and pant
legs.
Iron

There are different types of irons available in the market like flat iron, thermostatic,
automatic, non automatic, charcoal, steam iron etc. Among all, the thermostatically
controlled or automatic electric irons are the best, in which the temperature can be
adjusted to various types of materials. These are most convenient for general purpose
and home ironing.

Irrespective of types available in the market one should remember to keep base of the
iron very clean and follow the guidelines given by the manufacturer while using.
TXAD 111 
FUNDAMENTALS OF CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION 3(1+2)

Sannapapama K J,
C.H.Sc, UAS, Dharwad
Shahnaz Jahan,
C.H.Sc, Pantnagar

LEARNING OUTCOMES

By the end of the course the students will be able to

 Learn about various sewing equipment that are essential in a sewing room.
 Gain an insight of various sewing machines available in the market, their
functioning & common problems faced while usage.
 Get knowledge of basic stitches that a seamstress can employ in garment
construction.
 Study about various pre-preparatory processes involved in fabric preparation for
garment construction & get familiar with fabric grain & its importance.
 Understand various garment construction processes like seams,
fullness, neckline finishes, placket openings, hems, fasteners etc
 Get awareness on common layouts used in clothing construction and also
the special layouts applicable for special fabrics.
 Comprehend the importance and function of clothes.
 Discover the clothing requirements of Infants, toddlers, preschool child,
Elementary school children.

 News forum


28 February - 6 March
Introduction to Clothing Construction

 IntroductionPage

 Glossary of sewing termsPage

 ReferencesPage

 AssessmentQuiz


7 March - 13 March
Sewing Equipment and Tools

 IntroductionPage

 Classification of tools used in clothing constructionPage

 Measuring toolsPage

 Measuring tapePage

 Ruler or Yard StickPage

 L -square or Tailor’s SquarePage

 Hem marker/skirt markerPage

 GaugePage

 Marking toolsPage

 Tailor’s chalkPage
 Marking PencilPage

 Tracing WheelPage

 Dress Maker’s Carbon PaperPage

 CuttingtoolsPage

 ShearsPage

 Dress making shearsPage

 Bent-handle shearsPage

 Electric shearsPage

 Pinking shearsPage

 Serrated blade shearsPage

 ScissorsPage

 Rotary cutterPage

 Fitting toolsPage

 Sewing toolsPage

 NeedlePage

 Hand sewing needlesPage

 Machine sewing needlesPage

 Sewing threadsPage

 Sewing aidsPage

 Finishing/ pressing toolsPage

 IronPage

 Iron boardPage

 Sleeve boardPage

 Point presser and pounding blockPage

 Seam rollPage

 Tailor’s hamPage

 Pressing mittPage

 ClapperPage

 Press clothPage

 General ToolsPage

 Criteria for selection of sewing equipment, use and care of the toolsPage

 ReferencesPage

 AssessmentQuiz


14 March - 20 March
Sewing Machine
 IntroductionPage

 Types of sewing machinesPage

 Hand operated sewing machinePage

 Treadle sewing machinePage

 Electric sewing machinePage

 Embroidery sewing machinesPage

 Parts of a sewing machine and their functionPage

 Operation of the machinePage

 Selection of thread and needle, changing needlePage

 Upper and lower threadingPage

 Drawing the bobbin threadPage

 Fastening the thread endsPage

 AdjustmentPage

 Testing the tension of threadsPage

 Stitch LengthPage

 Pressure of the presser footPage

 Care of sewing machinePage

 ReferencesPage

 AssessmentQuiz


21 March - 27 March
Sewing Adjustment for Defects

 General repairsPage

 Machine trouble causes and remediesPage

 Tangled thread at the beginningPage

 Skipped StitchesPage

 Upper Thread BreakingPage

 Lower Thread BreakingPage

 Fabric PuckeringPage

 Needle BreakingPage

 Looped StitchesPage

 Uneven Stitch LengthPage

 Material not feeding correctlyPage

 Machine running heavilyPage

 Damage to fabricPage

 Puckering on both layers of fabricPage

 Puckering on under layer onlyPage

 ReferencesPage

 AssessmentQuiz


28 March - 3 April
Basic Hand Stitches

 IntroductionPage

 Classification of hand stitchesPage

 Temporary hand stitchesPage

 Even BastingPage

 Uneven BastingPage

 Diagonal BastingPage

 Slip BastingPage

 Pin BastingPage

 General guide lines for bastingPage

 Permanent stitchesPage

 Running stitchPage

 Back stitchPage

 Run and Back/Combination StitchPage

 HemmingPage

 Slip StitchingPage

 Over handingPage

 WhippingPage

 Decorative stitchesPage

 Buttonhole stitchPage

 Blanket stitchPage

 Herringbone StitchPage

 SmockingPage

 AppliquePage

 EmbroideryPage

 ReferencesPage

 AssessmentQuiz


4 April - 10 April
Preparation of fabric for cutting

 IntroductionPage
 Preparation of fabric for cuttingPage

 PreshrinkingPage

 Preshrinking for washable fabricsPage

 Preshrinking for non washable fabricsPage

 Straightening of fabric grainPage

 Checking the grain in woven fabricsPage

 Methods of straightening woven fabricsPage

 Grain and its importance in clothing constructionPage

 ReferencesPage

 AssessmentQuiz


11 April - 17 April
Construction Process

 IntroductionPage

 Methods of pattern makingPage

 DraftingPage

 Flat pattern methodPage

 DrapingPage

 Transferring pattern markings from paperPage

 Stay stitchingPage

 Ease stitchingPage

 ReferencesPage

 AssessmentQuiz


18 April - 24 April
Seams

 IntroductionPage

 General considerationsPage

 Selection of seams for various garmentsPage

 Classification of seamsPage

 Plain seamPage

 Self finished seamsPage

 Special or decorative seamsPage

 Hints on stitching and finishing seamsPage

 Standards of a well-constructed seam should bePage

 Seam FinishesPage
 Types of seam finishesPage

 Suitability for different fabricsPage

 ReferencesPage

 AssessmentQuiz


25 April - 1 May
Fullness

 IntroductionPage

 Reasons for introducing fullnessPage

 Types of fullnessPage

 DartsPage

 Straight dartPage

 A double pointed straight dart (Couture dart)Page

 Standards of a dartPage

 General rules for stitching a dartPage

 TucksPage

 Pin tucksPage

 Plain/Wide tucksPage

 Corded or piped tucksPage

 Shell tucksPage

 Criss Crossed tucksPage

 Calculating fabric quantities for tucksPage

 PleatsPage

 Knife or side pleatPage

 Box pleatPage

 Inverted box pleatPage

 Kick pleatsPage

 Accordion PleatsPage

 GathersPage

 Hand GathersPage

 Machine GathersPage

 ShirringPage

 Thread shirrs – Hand and machinePage

 Elasticized ShirrsPage

 Ruffles and frillsPage

 GoresPage
 GodetsPage

 FlaresPage

 ReferencesPage

 AssessmentQuiz


2 May - 8 May
Neckline finishes

 IntroductionPage

 Neckline finishesPage

 Choice of a necklinePage

 How to cut biasPage

 Marking the biasPage

 Joining biasPage

 Importance and uses of biasPage

 BindingPage

 FacingsPage

 Fitted or Shaped facingsPage

 Difference between facings and bindingsPage

 Placket openingsPage

 Standards of a placketPage

 ClassificationPage

 Inconspicuous placketsPage

 Continuous Bound placketPage

 Bound and faced placket or two piece placketPage

 Faced placketPage

 Conspicuous placketsPage

 ReferencesPage

 AssessmentQuiz

Seam roll

A seam roll is a firmly packed cylindrical cushion with a cotton cover on one half and wool on the
other. The wool absorbs moisture rapidly preventing it from "returning to the work." The soft
rounded surface prevents a ridge from forming, when seams are pressed open. It is also small
enough to fit into sleeves and pant legs.
Tailor’s ham

A tailor's ham or dressmaker's ham is similar to a sleeve roll. It has soft oval shape
wider at one end than the other. The surface is covered in wool on one side and
cotton on the other for pressing shaped areas. It helps to retain a curve when
basting, pressing or shaping any curved section, such as darts, curved shoulder
seams etc. The ham is also useful when setting the roll of a collar and when shaping
the cap of a sleeve.

Pressing mitt

A pressing mitt has padded glove like cushion made with a scotch proof heat
reflecting surface on one side and cotton on other side with a pocket to slip hand
into it and used as pressing surface for small area. It is especially useful for pressing
rounded sleeve caps.

Clapper

A clapper is an oblong piece of wood with one end narrower than the other and
usually with a groove in each side. The groove allows to hold the clapper
comfortably. The top and bottom are flat.

A clapper is used to flatten areas that are already pressed but may remain
resilient and need further flattening. The area is dampened with a cloth and
later pressed with the clapper exerting pressure for a few seconds. As clapper
absorbs moisture it is turned over constantly to use the cool side. It is cautiously
used to avoid marking the garment.

Press cloth

Most fabrics that are to be pressed on the right side should be pressed under a

pressing cloth. A press cloth is a layer of protective material placed between working
area and the iron. Selection of press cloth depends upon the kinds of fabric to be
pressed. It can provide moisture or assist in drying. It can allow pressing without
leaving marks or shine. The best press cloths are 100% cotton or 100% linen,
preferably old and the limp. A piece of soft wool fabric may be used to press woolen
garments.

Criteria for selection of sewing equipment, use and care of the tools

Equipment Selection, use and care

Measuring Tools

Tape Tapes selected should be non-stretchable and

flexible. Very little maintenance is required for
a measuring tape. It is enough to just preserve it
carefully when not in use.

Ruler/Yard Stick Chipped out rulers should be replaced as they do

not give accurate measurements.

Gauge Metal gauge may bend with rough or repeated use.

Once bent, it cannot help in accurate marking and
hence needs to be replaced.

Marking Tools

Tailor’s Chalk It is ideal to store tailors chalk in the case

Cutting Tools

Shears The blades are to be kept clean and oiled

occasionally. Use shears only to cut fabric. Cutting
papers with shears will dull the blades. Shears can
be sharpened if they become dull.

Sewing Tools

Needles Hand needles are to be stored in black sulphur

paper to prevent rusting.

Pin Cushions Some pin cushions come with a strawberry that is

filled with fine sand or emery, which is useful to
clean needles/pins. The abrasive action of these
fillers, removes dirt and rust, keeping the pin
or needle sharp and smooth.

Seam Ripper It should be covered when not in use to prevent

injuries and damage which may occur with the
sharp ends.

Needle Threader Forcing the threader through a small needle eye will

cause the wire to break, so care should be exercised
during its use.

Pin Cushion: Pin cushions are useful to store needles before and after
they are removed from the fabric. They can be made at home by using
soft fabric and filling it with hair instead of cotton wool. Some pin
cushions have an emery pack for cleaning and sharpening pins and
needles, and some cushions can fit on the wrist for handy use. Pin
cushions are available in a variety of styles like a tomato pin cushion, a
wristband pin cushion and magnetic type.

Awl: It is a small, sharp-pointed tool used to punch small, round holes

for marking in paper or leathers

Loop Turner: It is a long wire with a latch hook, used for turning bias
strips to make spaghetti straps and narrow belts.

Bodkin: It is used for drawing elastic, cord or ribbon through a fabric

casing. They are basically large needles with large eyes meant for easy
threading.

Orange- stick: This is a long tool whose point can be inserted into the
corners of collars, seams, etc., so as to give a neat pointed appearance.
Stiletto: This is a pointed metal with a wooden handle and is used to make eyelet
holes or openings.

Dress Form: It is a padded form of body and may be made of wood, cardboard,
plaster, reinforced plastic. It is an essential necessity in all sample rooms for
designing and fitting.

 
Cutting board or table: A table of convenient height and size is a definite aid in
cutting and constructing garments. 5’ x 3’ is a desirable size with 2’ x6” height.

References

1. Labanya, Mazumdar and R Vatsala, 2004 Textbook of Fundamentals of

clothing Construction. ICAR, New Delhi.
2. Mary Jo Kallal 1985. Clothing Construction Macmillan Publishing
Company. New York.
3. Mabel D Erwin, Lila A Kinchen and Kathlen A Peters. 1979. Clothes for
Modern Macmillan Publishing Co. in New York.

FUNDAMENTALS OF CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION 3(1+2)

Lesson 3 : Sewing Machine
Introduction

Sewing machines range from most basic versions of having only simple lock stitch to the
electronic machines with multitude work types. New models are constantly being brought out
with improvements and variations to suffice the needs of customers.

Types of sewing machines

1. Hand operated sewing machine

2. Treadle sewing machine

3. Electric sewing machine

4. Embroidery sewing machines

Hand operated sewing machine

This is simplest form of machine which is operated by hand. A detachable handle
provided to the flywheel is used to operate the machine. This machine is generally
suitable for domestic purpose due to its low work speed. Moreover the operator has
to use only single hand in directing the material under the needle as one hand is
engaged in operating the machine.

Hand operated sewing machine

This is simplest form of machine which is operated by hand. A detachable handle

provided to the flywheel is used to operate the machine. This machine is generally
suitable for domestic purpose due to its low work speed. Moreover the operator has
to use only single hand in directing the material under the needle as one hand is
engaged in operating the machine.

Treadle sewing machine

It is similar to hand sewing machine except that it is operated by foot using an

additional provision provided for peddling. This machine operates faster than hand
operated machine. On this machine both the hands are free to handle the fabric and
accelerate the work. This machine does not require power supply.