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Adding a splash of color to your hair is a popular way to express your individuality and personal aesthetic. From jewel tones of bold cobalt blue and forest green to pastels of baby pink and dreamy lavender, the options are limitless. But in all the excitement of trying a new shade, one aspect of the journey tends to get overlooked: the removal process.
It's true—just like how some colors are more challenging to maintain, some colors are more difficult to get out. Master colorist Shelley Gregory explains, "Cool and darker colors definitely stay longer," as "the dye molecules in the cooler colors versus the warmer colors are larger, so they have more staying power and less fading happening."
To help you remove colorful hair dye safely and successfully, we asked Gregory, celebrity hairstylist Kevin Kelly, and pro colorist Lauren Paglionico for their expert advice.
Keep reading to learn how to return to your natural shade after a colorful dye job.
Meet the Experts
- Shelley Gregory is a Kérastase Global Pro Club Color Expert.
- Kevin Kelly is a celebrity hairstylist and owner of Kevin Kelly Salon in New Jersey.
- Lauren Paglionico is a master colorist and the founder of lrn beauty.
Skip The At-Home Removal
Our experts agree that if there is one thing to avoid, it's the concept of doing any color removal yourself at home.
Master colorist Lauren Paglionico advises seeking the assistance of a trained professional to remove hair dye. As for what to expect, she says they will "Start with a test strand to see how it lifts and then determine what the next steps should be. They may use a color remover like Effasol, Malibu CPR, or Vanish, which eliminates unwanted pigment while preserving the hair's integrity and natural color."
"I do not recommend removing without a professional," Gregory emphasizes. "As a pro, we can assess your hair’s porosity and plan out the way to not only remove the color but also the aftercare for it. Sometimes, we can even remove the color and do a gloss or toner to enhance what you have left over in your hair. Then, we can send you home with diagnosed hair care routines to make sure you are really giving your hair the best love it needs after a color correction."
"For overall hair color care, I recommend the Kérastase Chroma Absolu collection because it helps to preserve the integrity of the hair and hair color post-treatment," Gregory shares.
Try a Bleach Wash
For stubborn remnants of colors, the experts recommend a bleach wash (sometimes known as a French fluff). "This is a quick way to remove leftover pigments by mixing two parts bleach to one part shampoo," says Gregory. "Apply the mixture onto wet, clean hair and watch to rinse as soon as the desired level or removal is achieved."
It's important to note the potential damage bleach can cause to hair during this or any bleach-related process. Scalp burns, damage and breakage to the hair, yellow coloring, and a pungent smell were all studied effects of applying bleach to hair.
Use Sulfate Shampoo and Baking Soda
"I wouldn’t recommend doing any of this at home as far as shampoo with sulfates goes," Kelly notes off the jump about this next tip. However, logistically, combining the two will help contribute to hair color removal.
"Sulfates strip the color, so when you use a shampoo with it, it will start to make the color oxidize and slip from the cuticle," Kelly continues. "You can start by mixing sulfate shampoo and baking soda and letting it sit, but most of the time, you need bleach to remove at a lower volume because the hair is already processed under the color, and the bleach will lift it out."
Opt for a Clarifying Shampoo
Clarifying shampoo is formulated to remove unwanted buildup on your hair, typically caused by products such as gel, hairspray, and mousse, as well as shampoo and conditioner. "A good clarifying shampoo and hot water will help color fade over time," says Gregory.
Try a Color Eraser
While Kelly does not recommend this as a complete solution, he does note that this tip can help begin the color fading process: "The only formal color remover I would recommend would be a color remover, which they call a color eraser," Kelly says. "It doesn’t always get all the color out, so your second option would be bleach."
Sunshine
This method is rather simple and, in fact, a DIY. While the experts advise against using the old lemon-water lightening method as a typical tactic, Gregory shares, "Sunshine is not ideal, but it will fade any colors from hair over time."
While sunshine can fade color-treated hair, it can also cause it to turn brassy and dull due to UV rays penetrating the shaft and breaking down the color molecules that keep your hair color bright.
Byrdie Tip
If using this method, be sure to apply sunscreen and take care not to burn your scalp. Avoid using sunshine to fade your hair color for long periods as this can also lead to a breakdown of proteins in the hair shaft that keep hair strong.
Choose Your Color Wisely
If you fancy yourself to be a bit of a chameleon who likes to change their look up often, consider what colors may allow for a quicker transition. For example, Gregory recommends choosing a pastel hue if you're indecisive or know you'll want a new color soon after the first dye job. Regarding the color growth, she says, "I know (the hair) will fade into the blonde that I created underneath, so I can change someone’s hair to a different pastel each salon visit."