We Finally Figured Out the Secret To New York Pizza and Bagels

We all know someone that always mentions how New York pizza and bagels are so much better than any others. But what really sets these doughs apart and why is it so tied to location? Well, the number one cited reason is in the ingredient list: the water. The claim is if the water isn't from New York, your pizzas and bagels won't have that perfect crisp yet tender, chewy bite that so many find irresistible. But does the water make that much of a difference? It turns out, yes!

How Is New York Water Different?

The New York Watershed contains water that travels all the way down from the Catskills and after treatment, contains low concentrations of calcium and magnesium, making it "soft". This is critical to taste as well as gluten development.

According to the American Chemical Society, "calcium and magnesium in hard water strengthens the gluten in the dough, making the finished product tougher and stronger. With very soft water, the dough tends to get soft and sticky." But the water and gluten are only the first half of the story.

The soft water also affects the actual flavor of the dough, as low concentrations of calcium and magnesium taste slightly saltier due more sodium ions.

Do You Have To Be in New York To Recreate New York Pizza and Bagels?

Luckily, you don't have to be in New York to recreate "the best" pizza and bagels. And don't worry—you also don't have to ship special water if you want to make the best bagels or pizza at home. Determining the pH level of your water and identifying any major flavor elements such as chlorine, iron, or sulfur will help.

To get the best water for pizza, all you need to do is filter it!

For bagels, adding calcium sulfate to the water can get it to that perfect Goldilocks state. Just don't forget to boil them!

The Key to a Real New York Bagel

New York bagels get boiled prior to baking, defining their special texture in a solution of water and barley malt. A long boil and thicker crust inhibit rising, resulting in a dense interior while a short boil yields a crusty yet chewy bagel bite.

This technique can be credited to Eastern European Jewish immigrants coming to the United States during the 19th century. In The Bagel: The Surprising History of a Modest Bread, author Maria Balinska traces the famous bagel to a 13th century boiled ring-shaped bread called "obwarzanek". A smaller, single serving version of the bread was also made called "bajgiel" in Polish.

The more modern method of making bagels introduced in the 90's uses ovens that inject steam during baking, giving bakers the ability to make more bagels in a shorter amount of time, but also skipping the crucial boiling step. Steam gives the resulting bagels color and shine, but not the cravable chewiness purists seek.