The votes are in! When our Flower Power machine embroidery set debuted, we sent out an email survey to ask which type of project you’d like us to develop with one or more of these designs as featured accents. The top pick: a tote! And so, here we are with a beautiful shoulder bag that’s the perfect size and weight for Summer but in a color palette and fabric blend that works well right into the early days of Fall.

The basic tote design is straightforward and can be made with any machine, however, those embroidery accents certainly kick it up a notch. We feature a full design on the front pocket, using the companion single element as a little surprise pop of color on the interior hanging pocket.

Thanks to this project’s sponsorship by Janome America, we did both the construction and embellishment with one sewing and embroidery powerhouse: the Janome Continental M17. From the first seam to the easy hooping to the final topstitching, it has the bed space, precision, power, and features to make everything easier… and simply more fun.

We also show you a favorite Janome specialty presser foot in action. The Bi-Level foot was perfect to stitch the handles in place as well to achieve enviable edgestitching. The base of the foot is split into two levels to better accommodate layers, folds or dimensional edges. It makes it so easy to maintain beautiful, consistent stitching.

Both the linen used for the exterior as well as the solid quilting cotton for the lining are lighter weight substrates, so we did add interfacing to the exterior panels as well as to the pockets. We wanted good stability while maintaining a nice softness that makes the bag more comfortable to carry.

We also chose a mid-weight, 100%  linen for the embroidered pockets. A tightly woven linen is a favorite substrate choice for us when doing embroidery – especially the gorgeous, dense designs of this collection. You could certainly use your own favorite substrate, but be mindful you want something with enough “heft” to insure the pockets can handle items going in and coming out, yet not so heavy it causes the main fabric to sag.

As mentioned, the lining is a classic quilting cotton, and we give you two techniques to help insure your lining stays smooth and stays put. There’s a wider seam allowance done with a French Seam finish along with a unique way to stitch together the two layers along their box corners.

And speaking of those box corners. They are a generous 4” deep; plenty of room to reach in and grab what you need without digging around. We show you all the steps for a beautiful box corner with perfectly intersecting corner seams.

We selected the golden daffodil from our Flower Power machine embroidery collection, but you could also choose a Thistle, Coneflower or Pansy. Each flower is designed in a strong graphic style and includes its own matching single element. Click to see the entire set, and to access the FREE downloads in any of six major embroidery formats. Once again, it’s thanks to our sponsorship from Janome America that we can offer such amazing sewing and embroidery projects free to you.

We certainly understand not everyone has access to machine embroidery, but hope our embroidered projects provide some inspiration for why you might want to add it into your sewing space in the future. Of course, you can make this pretty tote without any embellishment on the pockets, or you could try an appliqué, decorative stitching or hand embroidery as an option.

Janome America has supported this project and many of the other most popular projects across the S4H site. To understand first-hand why we are a Janome Exclusive Studio, we invite you to visit a local Janome dealer for an in-person test stitch on the machines we consider to be the best in the industry. To find out more before you go, visit the Janome website and follow them on social media.

Our Flower Power Tote finishes at approximately 12” wide x 14” high x 4” deep with a handle drop of about 12”.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Sewing Machine and standard presser foot
• If you wish to add machine embroidery: a combination Sewing/Embroidery Machine or Embroidery Only machine and appropriate presser foot and hoop; we used the M17’s RE20d hoop (140mm x 200mm). The designs within the Flower Power embroidery collection are all created to fit most medium embroidery hoops at this approximate 5” x 7” size.
• Bi-Level foot; optional for the precise stitching of the webbing handles and other tight edgestitching

Fabric and Other Supplies

• ¾ yard of 44”+ lightweight linen, linen blend or similar for the exterior;  we used Essex Yarn Dyed Linen in Charcoal by Robert Kaufman Fabrics
  NOTE: Do not use a super lightweight or “featherweight” linen; you do need appropriate body.
• ¾ yard of 44”+ mid-weight linen in a solid color for the pockets;  we used Sew Classic Solid 100% Linen in Black from Joann Fabric
  NOTE: As you’ll see below, we recommend cutting all the pocket panels lengthwise, which does require a bit more fabric but allows for the flattest finish with the most consistent grain.
• ½ yard of 44”+ quilting weight cotton or similar for the lining;  we used Kona Cotton in Tan by Robert Kaufman Fabrics
• 1½ yards of 20” + lightweight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon Shape-Flex non-woven interfacing
• 3½ yards of 1” wide webbing for the handles; we used cotton webbing in natural
• 50wt cotton embroidery thread for the optional machine embroidery; we used Aurifil 50wt Cotton Thread – refer to the thread chart  included with our Flower Power Design Set for color and stitch details
• Appropriate bobbin thread for your machine for optional machine embroidery; we used Janome bobbin thread
• All-purpose thread to match fabric and webbing for construction
• Tearaway stabilizer as recommended for your machine; for optional machine embroidery
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Pressing cloth; optional but a good idea when pressing machine embroidery
• Scissors and/or rotary cutter and mat
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Hand sewing needle; for optional hand basting

Getting Started and Optional Embroidery Download

NOTE: Our Flower Power Tote features embroidered pockets using a free download from our Flower Power Embroidery Design Set. As listed above, the designs are embroidered on 100% mid-weight linen fabric. They start as oversized panels backed with interfacing and are then trimmed to the correct size. If you choose not to add embroidery or substitute another type of embellishment, you can skip over the embroidery instructional steps. We offer additional detail on cutting, hooping and embroidery for those who wish to follow along.

1. From the exterior fabric (the homespun linen in our sample), cut ONE 33” wide x 21¼” high panel.
2. From the lining fabric (the quilting cotton in our sample), cut ONE 33” wide x 16¾” high panel.
3. From the interfacing, cut the following:
4. ONE 32” x WOF (width of fabric) panel
   NOTE: The recommended ShapeFlex interfacing, although listed at 20” in width, is actually 20¼” – so cutting WOF leaves a perfect ½” border of exposed fabric all the way around on the main panel. If your interfacing is different, simply cut at 32” x 20¼”.
   ONE 6” x 20” panel for the front pocket
   ONE 7” x 15” panel for the interior pocket
5. From the 1” webbing, cut TWO 57” lengths
6. From the mid-weight linen for the embroidered pockets, cut the following:
   NOTE: Mid-weight linen has a distinct weave, and should be cut “on grain”. To help establish the straight of grain, we used a “pull a thread” technique. Looking at a cut edge of fabric, you can see how the fabric is woven of individual threads. Separate one of the threads and gently pull, easing the gathers toward the opposite side. Cut along this slightly gathered line. We do recommend cutting ALL panels lengthwise for the flattest finish and the most consistent grain panel to panel.
   
   ONE 8” wide x 22” high oversize panel for the front pocket
   ONE 8” wide  x 16” high oversize panel for the interior pocket
   ONE 7” wide  x 15” high plain panel also for the interior pocket

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Optional Embroidery

Front pocket panel

1. Find the 8” x 22” panel for the front pocket and the 6” x 20” interfacing panel.
2. Center the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric panel so there is 1” of fabric showing beyond the interfacing all around. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the panel in place.
   
3. Fold the fused panel in half, wrong sides together, so it is now 8” x 11”. Press along the fold. This fold will become the upper edge of the pocket. Press well; you need a visible crease line to use as a positioning guide.
4. From the S4H Flower Power Embroidery Design Set project page, locate the template PDF file.
5. Print the template for the desired embroidery design. We used Flower Power_3 and Flower Power_3 Accent for our sample tote. Trim around each template so they can be used independently.
6. Place the folded front pocket panel on your work surface with the fold at the top, raw edges at the bottom.
7. Place the main design template on the folded panel. The upper edge of the design should sit  1½“ down from the fold.
   
8. The vertical line of the cross hairs should sit 4” in from the side edge of the pocket panel.
   
9. Pin the template in place, taking care to pin through a single layer of fabric only.
10. Hoop two layers of stabilizer in your embroidery hoop. Set up your machine for embroidery with bobbin thread in the bottom and embroidery thread in the top. Attach the hoop to the machine.
11. Unfold the fabric panel and place over the hoop, centering the crosshairs of the design under the needle.
    
12. Remove the template and secure the fabric using the. machine’s “Baste” function.
13. Embroider the panel, following our supplied color chart.
14. When the embroidery is complete, remove the panel from the hoop. Remove the excess stabilizer from the embroidery, and press from the wrong side.
    
15. Re-fold along the original crease, wrong sides together, so the pocket is a double layer of fabric. Trim through both layers to a final width of 7” and a height of 10½“.
    
    NOTE: If you decide to skip embroidery, simply remember that you need to end up with this folded, double-layer, interfaced pocket at 7” x 10½”.
16. Re-set the machine for sewing. Thread with all purpose thread matching the pocket fabric in both the top and bobbin.
17. Re-fold the panel right sides together along the original crease line, aligning the raw ends.
18. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch across the raw end only.
    
19. Press open the seam allowance and turn the pocket right sides out. Flatten the pocket so the fold is at the top and the seam is at the bottom. Press well. As always when doing embroidery, we suggest using a pressing cloth.
20. Set aside your completed front pocket.

Interior pocket panel

1. Many of the steps for this pocket are similar to the front pocket, but as a hanging pocket, its fold is off-set. To start, find the 8” x 16” oversize panel and the 7” x 15” interfacing panel.
2. Center the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric panel so there is ½” of fabric showing beyond the interfacing all around. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the panel in place.
3. Fold the fused panel, wrong sides together, bringing up one raw edge so it measures 7½” from fold to raw edge. This fold will become the bottom of the interior pocket.
4. Press along the fold. Press well as you need a visible crease line to use as a positioning guide. We also chose to add marking pins to either outer edge as additional guides.
5. Find the single element paper template.
6. Place the folded interior pocket panel on your work surface with the fold at the bottom and the off-set, raw edges at the top..
7. Place the single design template on the folded panel. The lower edge of the design should sit 1“ up from the fold.
   
8. The vertical line of the cross hairs should sit 4” in from the side edge of the pocket panel.
   
9. Pin the template in place, taking care to pin through a single layer of fabric only.
   
10. As you did above for the front pocket, set up your machine for embroidery with bobbin thread in the bottom and embroidery thread in the top. Attach the hoop, brining the crosshairs into position directly under the needle. Remove the template and secure the fabric using the. machine’s “Baste” function.
11. Embroider the panel, following the supplied color chart.
12. When the embroidery is complete, remove the panel from the hoop. Remove the excess stabilizer from the embroidery, and press using a pressing cloth.
    NOTE: Pay attention to the trimming for this panel so you get a perfectly positioned design as well as the proper pocket depth and enough fabric at the top to insert under the facing, creating the hanging pocket.
13. Keeping the embroidered panel flat, first trim the embroidered section so it measures 7” from the fold.
    
14. After that end is trimmed, trim as needed from the opposite end of the panel so the entire length equals 15”.
15. Finally, trim the panel to a final width of 7”.
16. Find the 7” x 15” plain panel, which is a perfect match to your embroidered and trimmed panel. It becomes the pocket’s lining.
    NOTE: If you decide to skip embroidery and keep the interior pocket plain, simply remember you need to end up with two panels that are 7” x 15”. If using a different design, an appliqué or decorative stitching, you can still follow our positioning guidelines to get your embellishment in the proper position on the pocket.
17. Re-set the machine for sewing. Thread with all purpose thread matching the pocket fabric in both the top and bobbin.
18. Place the embroidered panel and the plain panel right sides together, aligning the raw edges of all four sides.
    
19. Pin in place along both sides and across the embroidered end.
    
20. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch along both sides and across the embroidered end. Remember to pivot at the two bottom corners. The end opposite the embroidery should be left open for turning.
    
21. Trim the corners on the diagonal and trim the seam allowance to ¼“.
22. Turn the panel right sides out through the open end.
23. Using a long blunt tool, gently push out the bottom corners so they are as sharp as possible. A knitting needle, chopstick or point turner are all good options.
24. Press flat, then fold up the panel at the original crease markings, creating a pocket depth of 6½”. Edgestitch both sides together from bottom fold to top seam to form the pocket. We switched to the Janome Bi-Level foot to create perfect edge stitching. Adjust the needle position so the stitches are about 1/16” from the edge.
    NOTE: Black thread on black fabric is very difficult to shoot, so to help emphasize the beautifully precise edgestitching achieved with the Bi-Level foot, we added a red overlay in Photoshop to the photo below.
    
25. Set aside your completed interior pocket.

Tote construction – place the pocket and add the front handle loop

1. Find the main 33” x 21¼” exterior panel and the 32” x 20¼” interfacing panel (aka WOF panel for our ShapeFlex interfacing).
2. Center the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric panel so there is ½” of fabric showing beyond the interfacing all around. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the panel in place.
3. Along the upper edge of the panel, fold back the 33” raw edge ½” and press well.
   
4. Fold back an additional 4” and press well again. This creates the self facing.
   
5. Flip over the panel so it is now right side up.
6. Along the bottom raw edge of the panel, find the center point and mark this point with a pin.
7. Find the completed front pocket.
8. Place the pocket right side up on the panel so it is centered above the marking pin and 2½” up from the bottom raw edge. Pin the pocket in place.
   
9. The machine should still be set up for standard sewing and threaded with all purpose thread matching the pocket fabric in both the top and bobbin.
10. With the pocket pinned in place, edgestitch across the bottom of the pocket only. This is another great opportunity to use the Janome Bi-Level foot, adjusting the needle position so the line of stitching is about 1/16” from the edge of the pocket.
    NOTE: As above, we’ve once again added a red overlay in Photoshop to the image below to enhance the precise edgestitching. For more about the Janome Bi-Level foot, you can take a look at our full review article. 
    
11. The side edges of the pocket are covered and secured to the tote by the 1” webbing that creates the handles. Find the two 57” lengths of webbing.
12. To start, make sure the self- facing is unfolded (the original ½” and 4” folds). Position the length of webbing starting at the lower edge, along one side of the pocket, continuing to the upper edge of the tote, forming a loop for the handle, then down the second side of the pocket, ending at the lower edge of the tote. Make sure there are no twists in the handle loop and that you’ve covered equal amounts of the pocket on either side so the pocket’s design remains centered..
    
13. The two sides of webbing should measure 6” apart. Measure and pin in place.
    
14. Re-thread if need-be to insure the thread color matches the webbing. We opted to leave the Janome Bi-Level foot attached. It was yet another perfect use for this versatile foot, allowing us to edgestitch the webbing in place. Again, make sure the needle position is adjusted so the line of stitching is about 1/16” from the edge of the webbing.
15. Start stitching the webbing in place on one side of the pocket, at the lower edge of the tote. Continue stitching toward the upper edge of the tote, securing the pocket in place as you sew.
    
16. Stop at the fold line for the facing, and pivot to stitch across the webbing.
    
17. Pivot at the opposite side of the webbing, then stitch along the remaining side of the webbing, ending at the lower edge of the tote. Repeat for the webbing on the other side of the pocket.

Seam and add the back handle loop

1. To create the back seam, fold the tote right sides together and align the 21¼” raw edges. Pin in place.
   
2. If you’ve been using the Bi-Level foot, replace it with an purpose foot and return the needle position to center. Re-thread if need-be to insure the thread color matches the linen you’re using for the exterior.
3. Stitch the back seam with a ½” seam allowance. Press open the seam allowance and turn the tote right side out.
4. Find the remaining length of webbing, positioning it and pinning it in the same manner as the front handle, but using the back seam as your center point. You should still maintain that same 6” distance apart and again, make sure there are no twists in the loop of the handle.
   
5. And as you did on the front panel, switch to a Bi-Level foot if possible and stitch the webbing in place, also re-threading with thread to match the webbing if need be. You are now stitching against a “tube” rather than a flat panel. The linen fabric with which you are working should be soft enough to simply “scrunch” out of the way so you are stitching just on the single layer that is the back of the tote. Stop, with the needle in the down position, lifting the presser foot to reposition the layer as needed. When done, simply drop the presser foot and continue. As with most things, slow and steady wins the race.
   NOTE: A quick discussion about re-threading – we lucked out because the all purpose thread in natural we used worked for both our exterior fabric and the webbing. Yay, less -re-threading. However, if you’re a S4H regular, you know we add a fair amount of steps into our instructions that cover threading and re-threading. This is because a matching thread is one of the top details that mark a professional finish.

Box the corners of the exterior layer

1. With the tote wrong side out, flatten it to align the bottom raw edges. Pin in place across the bottom.
2. If you’ve been using the Bi-Level foot, replace it with an purpose foot and return the needle position to center, re-threading the top and bobbin if need be to best match the exterior linen fabric.
3. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch across.
   
4. Press open the seam allowance. If necessary, you can clip into the seam allowance at the corners so the seam will open completely flat.
5. Our box corners are designed for a depth of 4”
6. With the tote still wrong side out, use both hands to pinch and pull apart one corner. As you pull, the fabric will begin to form a little peak with the corner point at the top and the seam line running down the middle. It is very important your seam is centered within the peak; this is what will make the lines of your finished corner look perfect.
7. Slide your ruler or seam gauge along the peak until you reach the point at which your “triangle” is the appropriate 4” width.
   
8. Draw a horizontal line at this measurement.
   
9. Stitch along the drawn line. You can stitch across two or even three times to reinforce the corner.
10. Trim away the peak to ½” from the line of stitching.
    
11. Repeat to box the opposite corner.
    
    NOTE: If you are brand new to boxed corners, check out our full tutorial that shows you two different ways to create this type of corner as well as the formulas for cutting the correctly sized starting panels.

Create the lining and attach to the exterior

1. Find the 33” x 16¾” lining panel. Our tote lining is designed with a French seam, centered at the back. A traditional French seam is a beautiful and durable finish, but is most often hidden within a garment. For our tote, we’ve turned things around so the French seam adds a professional finishing detail to the interior. If you are brand new to this technique, we have a complete tutorial you can review before starting, as well as a four-part series covering all our favorite machine sewn finishes.
   NOTE: In the instructions below, we are calling out “wrong side” and “right side” even though our solid quilting cotton doesn’t really have a right or wrong side. This is because you need to keep track of your sides when doing this technique, and if you decide to use a fabric with a true right side/wrong side, it makes it easier to follow along.
2. With wrong sides together, align the 16¾” raw side edges of the tote lining and pin in place.
3. Make sure you have thread to best match the lining in the top and bobbin, that you are set up for standard sewing, and that you have a standard presser foot attached
4. Using a ⅜” seam allowance, stitch this seam.
5. Trim back the seam allowance to a scant ¼“ (about 3/16”).
   
6. Turn the lining right side out and press the along the seam line.
7. Stitch the seam a second time, this time using a full ¼” seam allowance. With this second seam, you are enclosing the raw edges of the first seam within the second seam.
   NOTE: The combination of the two seams also creates a slightly wider total seam allowance (⅝”) than the ½” seam you used on the exterior of the tote. This helps prevent the lining from being too “baggy” inside the tote.
   
8. Press the seam to one side.
   
9. Turn the lining wrong side out again and flatten to align the bottom raw edges. Pin across the bottom.
   
10. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch across the bottom. Then create a 4” box corner in each of the lining’s bottom corners just as you did above for the exterior.
11. The next step is a new technique we’re sharing that helps keep lining and exterior together and smooths the lining. Start with both the exterior and the lining wrong side out and make sure the center back seams for both are facing up. Butt together the bottom seams of the two pieces.
    
12. Align one exterior box corner seam allowance with the lining box corner seam allowance and pin in place.
    
13. Stitch across, within the seam allowance, to secure the corners together. You are stitching only within the seam allowance – do not stitch onto the body of the bag.
    
14. Repeat for the second box corner.

Finish with the facing

1. Turn the lining right side out (you can now see your pretty French Seam) and pull it up over the exterior. The exterior and the lining are now wrong sides together. Smooth the box corners of the two layers together and then continue smoothing the layers, making sure the two back seams match up. The top of the lining should stop just below the bottom fold line of the self-facing.
   
2. Find the completed interior pocket.
3. Align the top raw edge of the pocket with the ½” folded back top edge of the exterior. The right side of the pocket should be against the right side of the folded edge so when the hanging pocket drops into its final position, the pocket will be facing out.
4. Pin the pocket to that single fold; do not pin all the way through to the exterior of the tote. You could simply pin, but we suggest hand basting in place as the pocket is a bit heavy.
   
5. Fold the self-facing down into its final position (½” and then 4”). Pin in place – now you can pin through all the layers. Pin along the top of the facing…
   
6. … and along the bottom. As shown in the photo below, your hanging pocket should be facing out.
   
7. Double check that the exterior pocket is not caught in the pinning. You do not want to stitch your front pocket closed!
8. We recommend starting at the back seam of the tote. Stitch along the bottom edge of the facing, removing pins as you stitch. If your machine has a free arm, now is a great time to use it. This line of stitching will cross the webbing, so make sure the handles are pulled up and away from the upper edge of the tote so they don’t get caught in the stitching.
   
9. Continue all the way around the tote.
   
10. When you reach your starting point, overlap the stitches and trim threads.

Project Design: Anne Adams
Sample Creation and Embroidery: Michele Mishler