Sandy's Browned Butter Applesauce

This delicious, Browned Butter Applesauce is a recipe I had saved from the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel food column of Sandy (Sanford) D'Amato, a James Beard Award-winning chef and former owner of famed Sanford Restaurant in Milwaukee. He sold his restaurant to his talented chef-de-cuisine and moved to New England with his wife to write his cookbook and memoirs, Good Stock, and has recently opened a cooking school in Massachusetts called Cook Stock Farm Cooking School. With autumn and apple season in full throttle, I made his recipe this past week.

Speaking of New England, I was the VERY fortunate winner of a seafood giveaway from Fresh New England recently!  El lives in and promotes New England through her gorgeous photography and amazing baking skills. The giveaway was her way to celebrate the recent launch of her new website, Fresh New England Eats which, with her team, promotes the New England food community.  Not only did I win 2 beautiful, live, New England lobsters...

 

...but an entire clambake for two including mussels, steamers and clam chowder direct from Ipswich Shellfish Market in Ipswich, Massachusetts.  They were a pleasure to contact and very helpful with tips on how to store the shellfish until time to cook them. The shellfish came beautifully chilled and packaged this past Friday, arriving early the very next morning after it was shipped, which just happened to be National Lobster Day!

Two very dear friends, who have many years of lobster boils under their belts, were invited to share our bounty, cooked over our back yard fire pit.  We supplemented with Gulf shrimp, Littleneck clams, Wisconsin corn-on-the-cob, locally made sourdough bread and my garden tomatoes. A delicious collaboration of East meets Midwest, and, what a feast! Warm clam juice, melted butter, and seafood sauce were supplied for copious dipping of the shellfish.  FYI, I had never eaten New England Steamers before and they are unlike any other clam I've eaten. Thankfully, our friends had and were able to teach us how it's done. They are delicious!

The clams, mussels and shrimp were wrapped and tied in cheesecloth 'bags' for the boil and were our first course followed by the lobsters, corn and tomatoes for the main course. Here is an easy method for an Indoor, Stove-top Clambake from Ina Garten if you'd like to try one at home! Ours was kept simple with no other additions to the water for the boil.

Not only were the fresh shellfish delicious and a special treat in itself, but we were lucky enough to enjoy a gorgeous, early fall evening with the almost-full Supermoon overhead! It was a magical night!

If all this weren't bounty-enough to shout about, I also received this charming, vintage-replica basket loaded with New England goodies from El! A variety of crackers, preserves, raspberry and hibiscus jam (oh my), New England honey and maple syrup, country ketchup, and a bottle of craft made, pure cranberry soda mixer. The basket also included Food Rules - an eaters manual by Michael Pollan, which is wonderfully well written, humorous and beautifully illustrated.  I highly recommend it for anyone who wants to live a healthier life by eating good, natural food.

Thank you very much to El, Fresh New England and Fresh New England Eats for this amazing, delicious, bountiful, fresh, New England prize!!

Sandy's Browned Butter Applesauce

Adapted from Chef Sanford D'Amato

Printable Recipe

Use this wonderful applesauce to top pancakes for breakfast, add to cottage cheese for lunch or serve with pork chops or roasted pork for dinner. Even the apple peels are put to use. It is loaded with the rich flavors of cardamom, butter, vanilla extract and a touch of bourbon.

Makes approximately 1 quart

My Note:  Instead of mace, cardamom and cinnamon, I used Penzey's Baking Spice mix which contains all three.

2 tablespoons salted butter
4 pounds Gala, or another tart apples (about 6 large), peeled (reserve peels), cored and cut in half, each half cut into 8 pieces
2 bay leaves
½ teaspoon ground mace
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon, cassia preferably
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Cider peel liquid:

1 tablespoon butter
Reserved apple peels
¼ cup bourbon
1 ½ cups unsweetened apple cider

Place a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. When hot, add the butter, let it melt and turn golden brown. Immediately add the apples and stir. Add bay leaves, mace, cardamom, cassia cinnamon and salt.  Cook, covered and stirring regularly, so that the apples evenly turn a light golden brown, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat.

To make the cider peel liquid, place a large sauté pan medium-high heat. Add the butter and, when hot, add the peels and sauté, stirring, for 4-6 minutes, until golden. Remove from heat and add bourbon and cider. Place back over the heat and bring to a boil for 1 minute. Puree this mixture in a blender, then strain through a medium strainer while pressing on the solids — this should yield 1¼ cups.

Add the cider peel liquid, vanilla and lemon juice to the cooked apples and cook for an additional 5 minutes, stirring, over low heat. Remove bay leaves and puree coarsely by pulsing in a food processor. Adjust seasoning with salt and refrigerate until needed.

Fresh applesauce will keep for about 10 days refrigerated or, up to a year in the freezer.

Clam, Halibut and Sweet Corn Chowder

If you enjoy clam chowder, I think you will love this recipe! We are so fortunate to have friends who love to cook and enjoy finding new recipes to prepare for and share with each other.  On one such occasion, we were served this delicious chowder. 

I enjoyed it so much, I couldn't wait to make it myself. Our friend gladly shared the recipe and her adaptations, which I am sharing with you.  This is a perfect, late summer/early fall chowder.  Sweet corn season is nearing its end here, so if you can't get fresh sweet corn at the farmers' market any longer, it's okay to use the sweet corn from your grocer.

When our friend made this for us, she didn't use the fish called for in the recipe but used a larger quantity of clams.  When I made it at home I tried it with the addition of halibut filets and it was wonderful!

Clam, Halibut and Sweet Corn Chowder

Adapted from Chef Adam Zimmerman, Sepia (Chicago)
Printable Recipe

Serves 4

Clam juice – about 1 quart
8 ears sweet corn, shucked and kernels removed, saving cobs (divide kernels in half)
2 leeks, white part only, diced (divided in half)
2 medium carrots, peeled and diced (divided in half)
3 stalks celery, peeled and diced (divided in half)
1 medium onions, peeled and diced (divided in half)
4 sprigs fresh thyme (divided)
1 bay leaf

1 1/2 lbs small red or Yukon Gold potatoes, unpeeled and cut to the size of the pearl onions
16 peeled pearl onions
2 cups heavy cream, reduced to 1 cup
4 strips of bacon, cut into 1” pieces (can be omitted, if desired)
2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

Salt and fresh ground black pepper
4 each 5-ounce skinless halibut or cod filets
12 little neck clams, scrubbed
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/4 cup chopped parsley for garnish

In an 8-quart stock pot combine the remaining 1/2 of kernels with 10 of the corn cobs, half of the diced leek, and half of the celery, carrots and onions, as well as 2 sprigs of thyme and the bay leaf. Add the clam juice then add enough water to cover by about 2 inches and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 40 minutes. Strain the corn stock and discard the solids.

Wash out the stock pot and add 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Over medium heat add the bacon and cook until rendered and lightly golden brown. Remove the bacon and drain on a paper towel. Pour off all but 3 tablespoons of the bacon fat/olive oil mixture and add the reserved leeks, onions, carrots, celery and corn kernels. Add a pinch of salt and sweat until the vegetables are just beginning to get tender. Add the corn stock and the remaining thyme. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the potatoes, pearl onions, and cream. Simmer until the potatoes are tender. Add the clams and continue to cook just until the clams open. Add the chopped parsley and the reserved bacon (if using) and taste. Add salt and pepper as needed.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium high heat. Season the halibut or cod with salt and pepper.  Add 3 tablespoons of olive oil to the pan and fish. Sear the fish about 4 minutes per side until just cooked through. 

To serve, place a ladle-full of chowder and vegetables into each serving bowl. Add some of the chowder broth and top with a filet of halibut or cod.

Garnish with chopped parsley, reserved cooked bacon and serve with a crusty baguette.

Note:  Can be made without the fish filets - double the amount of clams.