Kraków, your gateway to Polish cuisine

Pierogi, traditional Polish dumplings. Image by MOs810. Licence CC BY-SA 4.0. Cropped from original

Pretty much every guide to Polish cuisine starts with pierogi, and for a good reason: these stuffed dumplings are the most popular dish thereof, hands down. So, this list of suggestions for a gastronomic trip to Kraków won’t be an exception.

With a variety of fillings such as sauerkraut, mushrooms, or even sweet berries and chocolate, there are pierogies for everyone. Traditionally, they are boiled, but the current trend brings up fried versions of this mainstay. The approach to serving is similar in both cases: butter and fried onions for salty and spicy varieties, butter and sweet sauce for dumplings given as dessert.

There are competing theories about how pierogi came to be, two of them attributing the dish to divine intervention with participation of Saint Hyacinth, a Polish Dominican priest (1185 – 1257), and one that points to Marco Polo and his Chinese journey down the Silk Road as the initial source of dumplings in Europe. Regardless, it’s just good to have this Polish cuisine staple on the table. Don’t miss out on pierogi in Kraków!

Pierogarnia Krakowiacy, located at Szewska, 23, is a cozy pierogi restaurant praised for its outstanding variety of fillings and reasonable prices. The establishment has been operating in the heart of Krakow's Old Town for years now, always delivering on the promise. After seeing St. Mary's Basilica, the Main Market Square (Rynek Główny), and Historical Museum of the City of Kraków, this place is a convenient pit stop for refreshments (or a full-scale meal) before further explorations.

Pączki, Polish donuts. Image by wirestock, from Freepik

How do you articulate “pączki”? All letters look familiar, except for that “a” with a tail. Does it make any difference? Turns out, it does: the correct way to pronounce the name of these traditional Polish doughnuts is “puhnch-kee.” Don’t be discouraged if locals smile condescendingly upon hearing you uttering that, they appreciate the effort and will pick out the best pączki from the freshest batch to reward you.

As a matter of fact, this treat does not exactly fit the description of doughnuts: pączki have no hole in the middle and tend to be more of a ball than an oblate sphere. Plus, there’s a filling inside, and dough, while basically similar to that used for doughnuts throughout the world, incorporates alcohol (rum, in most cases), which prevents absorption of excessive amounts of oil during frying. This latter fact even makes the Polish take on the concept somewhat more healthy.

In Kraków, you can eat pączki in virtually any bakery. They are loved by locals of all ages, although younger generations tend to go for fillings like chocolate and vanilla pudding while those wordly-wise prefer time-proven plum and rosehip jams. Poles have a special day, tłusty czwartek (fat thursday), when they consume exuberant amounts of these doughnuts; it’s right before Lent, so there’s no fixed date, but if you happen to be in the country at that time, consider yourself lucky.

Lajkonik Bakery & Cafe is a chain of 21 outlets, 16 of which operate in Kraków. It’s been around since 2012, although its roots go down to the beginning of the 20th century. Pączki, Polish doughnuts, are the specialty of the place; they fill refrigerated shelves here and come in a wide assortment of flavors and fillings. Plus, Lajkonik offers something rather unique: a pączburger, something you simply can’t miss.

Bigos, traditional Polish cabbage and meat stew. Image by JIP. Licence CC BY-SA 3.0. Cropped from original

If there’s a dish that contests pierogi for the title of the most popular Polish cuisine gem, it’s bigos. A Christmas staple all over the country, it underwent some noticeable transformations through the centuries of its existence to become the celebration of cabbage it is now.

Culinary historians claim bigos began as a hunter’s stew among Polish nobility: in the 17th and 18th centuries, they packed some fermented fruits and vegetables when going to the woods, and used it as company for game and/or fish they procured during the expedition. As a stew, bigos stayed in a pot over fire for a long time before it was considered done, so this dish was also about conversation and mingling.

Over time, the recipe acquired a heavy tilt towards cabbage, both fresh and sauerkraut. When you order a bowl of bigos in Kraków, expect it to be two-thirds that cruciferous vegetable, plus assorted meats (the more the better), kielbasa cuts, onions, optional mushrooms, and arrays of herbs and spices varying widely from restaurant to restaurant. This lack of a set-in-stone formula calls for at least two approaches to bigos in Poland, and if your trip takes you to the neighboring countries (Belarus, Lithuania), try this dish there, too.

The Old Town of Kraków, the very heart of the city with centuries-old landmarks and one-of-a-kind sights, is also filled with restaurants, cafés, and eateries of all sorts. It would be safe to assume that this is where you can try pretty much everything Polish cuisine has to offer, even such recent additions thereto as zapiekanka (see below). Bigos, of course, can be found in most traditional establishments here, but Morskie Oko pairs food and drinks with folk band shows, so if you’re looking for a place to spend an evening in, enjoying meals like bigos and absorbing local culture at the same time, this is the spot.

Zurek, traditional Polish sour soup. Image by gpointstudio, from Freepik

Zurek is the Polish incarnation of the sour cereal soup concept transcending borders in Eastern Europe, with variations found in Belorussian, Ukrainian, and Czech cuisines, and sibling dishes registered in pretty much all cookbooks of that part of the Old World. Beyond its delicious taste, zurek also offers health benefits: fermented rye, the key ingredient, delivers probiotics for proper digestion, and the vegetable and protein components are sources of essential nutrients making this one a perfect choice for a balanced diet. 

The origins of zurek are unclear. One theory pins the invention thereof on farmers who failed to wash their pots properly, thus leaving bacteria that fermented the next soup they cooked in them; another points to a stingy innkeeper who watered down meals he served, with fermentation a natural consequence of such “ingenuity.”

Today, zurek is a beloved Polish soup offering unique flavor and creamy texture, with the recipe bringing together fermented rye, potatoes, vegetables, bacon, and a special white Polish sausage flavored with marjoram. For a twist on the classic, try ordering chlebie, which is zurek served in a loaf of bread instead of a regular bowl.

Czerwone Korale is a small Polish cuisine restaurant in the Old Town of Kraków where you can have both a typical zurek in a regular bowl and its more filling variation that comes in a loaf of bread. Located around the corner from St. Mary's Basilica and Bugle Tower, the place offers all the staples, from pierogi through kopytka to sernik (scroll down to learn about those). Plus, as many patrons point out, generous amounts of vodka!

Kaszanka, Polish blood sausage. Image by freepik, from Freepik

What’s the best known Polish sausage? Kielbasa, of course! The U-shaped delicacy with a label often reading “Polska” to underscore originality of the product. In fact, kielbasa is a generic name for any wurst in Poland, including kaszanka (pronounced kashanka), blood sausage that should be on your list of foods to eat in Kraków if you’re carnivorous.

Kaszanka is one of the best examples of how blood can be used to create a complex and delicious flavor. Of course, it’s not the only ingredient but just a base, which welcomes pork offal, fat, and liver, plus onions and spices (marjoram as the dominating note) and one ingredient you don’t often see in a sausage: buckwheat.

Polish blood sausage can be fried, boiled, or baked, and then served alongside potatoes or sauerkraut, which are classic side dishes here. While Poland is not as famous for its beer as the country’s western and northern neighbors, it does have some good brands and local craft beverages, so you definitely have to add a pint (or two) to the delicious kaszanka.

In addition to all the praise about the exceptional quality of food at Dobra Kasza Nasza (Rynek Główny, 28), from meat pierogi through kaszanka to szarlotka, patrons that cared to leave a review in words and not just stars mentioned quietness of this place, which is a rare commodity in Kraków’s Old Town. So, if you want to enjoy a glass of beer and some Polish blood sausage in silence, come to Dobra Kasza Nasza. Especially after a visit to the adjacent Museum Kata Kacianora (all things torture and executions).

Kotlet schwabowy, Polish breaded pork cutlet. Image by Silar. Licence CC BY-SA 4.0. Cropped from original

A breaded cutlet is a breaded cutlet, right? Well, considering the amount of variations thereof, it’s not exactly so. The most famous realization of the concept – worldwide – is definitely Viennese schnitzel, which, in fact, is believed to be a derivative of cotoletta Milanese. Polish kotlet schabowy is not as well-known as these two, but it certainly deserves a spot on the list of dishes to eat in Kraków.

The roots of this cutlet can be traced back to the 19th century, when its recipe was first published in a cookbook. The approach to this staple of Polish cuisine hasn’t changed much since then: it’s still a matter of tenderized pork loin (with or without the bone), breading of eggs, spices, breadcrumbs, and flour, and lard or oil to fry the result on.

Ordering kotlet schabowy in a Kraków restaurant, you'll most likely get it with potatoes in this or that form, or seared cabbage, or fried mushrooms, or a salad on the side. Given the typically generous portions in the eateries of Polish Athens (Kraków’s nickname), this is a hearty dish you may want to have after a full day of sightseeing.

Kraków’s Old Town isn’t really big: its area is a bit less than 1.5 square kilometers. Yes, you can spend a whole day here, the number of museums and landmarks is overwhelming (the place is one of Poland’s 14 UNESCO World Heritage Sites), and all the restaurants will not leave you hungry. But it’s good to venture out, too, right? For example, just outside the heart of Kraków, there is a Be Happy Museum, an interesting attraction worth coming to at least for a change, when you grow weary of all the baroque and Renaissance architecture. And a few steps west therefrom, Smak, a cozy bar with a full-fledged kitchen, is ready to give you kotlet schabowy and whatever else Polish you may desire. The spot is quite popular, so be patient if there’s some waiting time for a table, the experience is well worth it.

Zapiekanka, Polish fast-food dish. Image by relineo, from Freepik

One theory states a cuisine can be considered a full-fledged one only if it has produced a fast-food dish, or at least a recipe that’s been converted to a meal made quickly and consumed on the go. Meet zapiekanka, the favorite street food of the Poles.

This open-faced sandwich first appeared in Poland in the 1970s, when the government allowed people some entrepreneurial freedom in the catering industry, which led to mom-and-pop shops and stalls sprouting everywhere throughout the country. Originally, zapiekanka was half a baguette (cut longitudinally, like for a sub) topped with button mushrooms and a lot of cheese, then baked, and served with ketchup and/or mustard on top. The set of ingredients factored in food shortages, not uncommon back then.

Today, zapiekanka is a late-night snack after a night out or a casual meal on a busy day, with toppings much more diverse than they used to be: bacon, pickled cucumbers, sausages, all sorts of meats, plus generous heaps of mature cheeses like Edam, Gouda, Tilsit, Emmental, or Cheddar. Kraków has a special place with legendary stalls and shops making this Polish pizza, Plac Nowy in the Kazimierz district.

Welcome to Plac Nowy, the true zapiekanki heaven of Kraków! The name of the location means “New Square”; it’s one of the spots on the map of Kazimierz, a historic Jewish quarter that’s nowadays a more touristy district with assorted shops, galleries, and bars. If you’re looking for a real taste of the famous Polish fast-food dish, and want to know what it can be, all the eateries of Plac Nowy – there’s a dozen of them here, give or take, – will be happy to shape your experience and extend your understanding of an open-faced sandwich. Endizor is just one of them; although it comes highly recommended, you shouldn’t stop your zapiekanki quest there, so go on, grab more of them at neighboring outlets!

Kopytka, traditional Polish potato dumplings. Image by Syp. Licence CC0. Cropped from original

Above, you’ve seen potatoes mentioned as a typical Polish cuisine side a couple of times. Meet kopytka, one of the options, which plays very well with chicken, beef, or pork recipes like goulash. In its more creative variations, though, it can easily pose as a standalone dish.

The name translates to “little hooves,” owing to the form these potato dumplings are shaped to have. They are quite similar to Italian gnocchi: flour and mashed taters as the main ingredients, eggs to keep everything together, and salt plus seasonings for the melody of taste. This is a transborder phenomenon, with national variations slightly different from each other: in Poland, kopytki (plural for kopytka) are simply boiled in salty water, while in Belarus and Lithuania they are first baked and after that boiled or stewed.

Topped with buttered breadcrumbs and/or fragrant mushroom sauce, kopytki are a filling healthy breakfast, second course of a lunch, or a light dinner in its own right. Moreover, the mentioned creative takes on the concept may invite anything from bacon, onions and cheese to sugar, cinnamon and sweetened quark, which underpin the dish’s dessert ambitions. Thus, when you see the name of this Polish cuisine staple on the menu of a Kraków restaurant, do ask what exactly is on the offer, and don’t hesitate to order options that sound exotic.

Krakow isn’t the warmest and sunniest destination in Europe. Summertime, the average temperature ranges from 11°C to 24°C (52°F to 75°F), and only two-thirds of the days are sunny. But when you do have sun in the sky and no-overcoat air around you, it’s really nice to enjoy lunch sitting at a table on the sidewalk of an Old Town’s street. Domowe Przysmaki is one of the restaurants where you can do just that. Here, kopytka can be a side or a proper dish, your choice; if you’re feeling more hungry than a plate of potato dumplings, go for borscht, zurek, or kotlet, all cooked the right way.

Sernik, Polish cheesecake. Image by Silar. Licence CC BY-SA 3.0. Cropped from original

Did you know that cheesecakes have been around since circa 5th century BC? Greeks of the island of Samos made plakous, which means “flat mass,” and essentially, they were cheesecakes. In the form more familiar to us, the concept was realized in medieval Europe as soft-cheese patties on a flat pastry base.

Polish cuisine has a cheesecake of its own: sernik. It’s believed to have been brought to the country by King Jan III Sobieski from the war with the Turks in the 17th century. Since then, this sweet marvel made of eggs, sugar, and twaróg, a type of curd cheese, has been a traditional Easter and Christmas treat in most households of the country. 

Over the years, sernik has evolved and branched out noticeably. Some recipes of the cake include raisins, chocolate sauce, or fruits, while others have a sponge biscuit as a base and fruits plus jelly on top. Thus, eating this cheesecake in Kraków should never be a one-off affair, because a bakery or a café next-door to the one you’ve had a piece at will definitely offer you a different sernik.

One of the Old Town’s eateries that’s evolved into a proper attraction, Jama Michalika is a Polish cuisine restaurant established in 1895. The place was favored by creative folk: many writers, artists, performers, and musicians used to frequent Jama Michalika, which gave backdrop to their arguments and joint quests for perfection. The cooks of the spot, in the meantime, searched for ultimate combinations of ingredients of the dishes they made for patrons, and in the case of sernik, at least, they have obviously reached the goal.

Kremówka (Napoleonka), Polish dessert. Image by Franek Vetulani. Licence CC BY-SA 4.0. Cropped from original

Napoleonka, also known as kremówka, is another traditional Polish dessert that’s related to a whole family of such layered sweet desserts. Here, it is a matter of two tiers of flaky puff pastry with rich whipped cream, buttercream, vanilla pastry cream, or egg white cream between them. Arguably, the best-known member of this family is French mille-feuille, commonly referred to as Napoleon, which is why kremówka (“cream cake,” give or take) has a second name in Poland.

Kremówkas became hugely popular in Poland, a deeply Catholic country, when people learned that Pope John Paul II loved them. The story was made spicier by a clarification having the pontifex preferring variation of the dessert soaked in alcohol, which turned out to be a lie, but the cake was already launched to stardom and stayed there.

Visiting Kraków, you may be surprised at the amount of sweet items on the menus of the city’s restaurants. Kremówka, with its luscious cream filling and crispy puff pastry layers, should be one of those you enjoy without fail.

One of the patrons of Cukiernia Czarodziej mentioned that he loved the place because the cakes made here “taste like they did in the 80s.” For all you boomers and older millennials, this should be incentive enough to step out of the Old Town, walk a couple blocks north-east up Karmelicka, and find this little bakery that remembers how to make classic desserts without messing them up adding twists to them. Kremówka, or napoleonka, is one of the highlights of Cukiernia Czarodziej’s menu; this is your chance to learn the authentic taste of this acclaimed Polish sweet treat.

So, what’s your Kraków? As you understand, it can be different things to different people, and that nickname, Polish Athens, is a well-earned one: the city, with its tumultuous history, never lost the creative spirit you can feel on every corner of its more touristy parts. As for the food, it really is a gateway to Polish cuisine: all the prerequisites of a foodie’s destination of choice are present, from fresh locally sourced produce to acclaimed chefs who decided to settle here and share their art.

We hope this article helped you find your way around gastronomic Kraków. For further guidance, check out these pieces prepared by the Restaurant Guru team:

– Top tips for all foodies: The best restaurants in Kraków, Poland 
– Top Michelin-recommended restaurants in Krakow, Poland