This walk-down Hell’s Kitchen space painted an eye-searing shade of yellow is a real Indonesian warung — an urban snack shop, in this case, selling dishes whipped up on the spot from ramen-style dried noodles with a catalog of toppings. Coffee- and tea-based beverages are also available, as well as snacks featuring tofu and tempeh, fritters, and popcorn chicken. A jovial place!

This new stall at Urban Hawker had gone the pop-up and Smorgasburg route before it moved into its new digs, peddling bowls of rice topped with chicken, beef, mushrooms, or Beyond Meat. Then there are wonton-skin tacos and chicken wings. The powerful flavors of Indonesian food are there, but somehow eating these fast-casual commonplaces only gives you a partial idea of what the food of the archipelago tastes like.

Whitney Avenue, steps from the Elmhurst Avenue stop on the R and lingering in the shadow of the LIRR elevated tracks, might be called Little Jakarta, and Sky Cafe is its hub. This storefront has been a succession of Indonesian restaurants over the last two decades, and the current occupant is an expert at providing the cuisine’s most familiar dishes, including chicken satays with peanut sauce, curry rice noodles, gado-gado salad, and lontong sayur.

Perhaps the city’s best Indonesian restaurant, Awang is located right on mighty Queens Boulevard not far from its shopping centers, and it doesn’t stint on the dark palm-sugar syrup, thick peanut sauce, and double-strength coconut milk. Goat satay is a highlight, a juicy fried chicken marinated in coconut milk, and cow tongue in a green-chile sambal. The dining room is cheery and utilitarian.

One cannot imagine a more modest eatery than this off-the-beaten-track grocery in Elmhurst, stacked with 50-pound bags of rice, spices, and frozen fish. But look here and there on its piles of groceries and find homemade meals packaged in plastic tubs including, on a recent visit, chicken satays thickly rubbed with spices and nasi padang, a full meal from Western Sumatra that features rice, beef rendang, sambals galore, and other goodies.

Named after Indonesia’s principal island, and founded in 1992, Java is one of the city’s oldest Indonesian restaurants. Don’t be deterred by its Park Slope location: The food is solid, and this is the only place in town you can score the legendary rijstaffel (“rice table”), a 15-dish meal of small, piquant dishes considered a vestige of the Dutch colonial era, but one that shows off Indonesia’s vast cuisine.