Welcome to our biweekly column in which we offer recommendations on fall Fridays, with new restaurants or unsung dishes or drinks from familiar places in the mix.
Right in front of Long Island University, where Fleet Street abruptly turns and intersects with Flatbush Avenue Extension, a plume of fragrant smoke rises into the air. It issues from the blackened smokestack of Texas Smoked, a mobile smoker purchased in Texas. This smoker is used to make jerk chicken ($15 for half, including rice and peas) by a crew of Egyptians. The chicken is smoky tasting and sweet, smothered in a jerk sauce concocted by the owners. The smoker is parked there from around noon till the chicken runs out on weekends, and the chicken is halal. Fleet Street and Flatbush Avenue Extension, Downtown Brooklyn
Tziki Souvlaki is a new Greek sandwich shop that appeared in Chelsea over the summer. It occupies a corner location, and is nicely decorated for a counter-service spot, with dried herbs hanging above the counter and paintings of Greek themes aligning the walls. The place makes its own sourdough pitas, and these can be used to make four sandwiches: chicken breast, pork shoulder, beef, and wild mushroom. The pork, which is carved from a rotating vertical spit, is especially good ($11) topped with tomato, onion, yogurt, and paprika, and an optional spicy tomato sauce. The Greek salad ($15) is also worth ordering. The fridge offers a selection of Greek juices and sodas. 209 Seventh Avenue, at 22nd Street, Chelsea
If you’re headed to a Rangers game or even just killing time before an LIRR train, the recently opened Roberta’s near Penn Station is pretty great. Sure, you can grab a slice in the lower level R Slice, but for a more satisfying visit, hit the second-level restaurant; if its nice out, grab seats on the giant patio. Start with this puff of house bread with stracciatella, olive oil, and anchovies ($19), and move on to a tuna carpaccio with cherries, horseradish, and lime ($26). Consider pasta like a satisfying bucatini Amatriciana ($27), or if pizza is a must, there’s margherita ($22) for a simple order, or the more elaborate Bee Sting, with chile, honey, and soppressata ($25). It’s a great hang for an area that I used to avoid at all costs. Penn One at 33rd Street, Midtown
Andrew Tarlow’s Borgo is hoppin’ in the old I Trulli space. Tables dressed with white tablecloths and butcher paper are lit with actual candles in candlesticks, a rarity. Yet nothing about it feels fussy. Otherwise the room is luxuriously minimalist with a view of the back patio and its waterfall if you’re seated toward the back of the room. Sure, you can start with suppli (several to an order) or beef heart spiedini with grape reduction. Or you can go right for a tangle of chitarra with tiny sweet Manila clams and bottarga. 124 E. 27th Street, at Park Avenue South, Murray Hill