A New Silver Lake Cafe Flips Into a Sultry Natural Wine Bar at Night

Silver Lake’s modern sushi spot Santo opened its sister restaurant Barr Seco in late August. Both restaurants are located on Sunset Boulevard between Hyperion and Lucille Avenues across from Pazzo Gelato and a block away from the now-closed Bar Moruno and Causita. The all-day spot blends Latino and Asian flavors, with a morning menu of coffee, various bowls, and sandwiches before transitioning to snackier dishes and natural wines in the evening.

Jos Gozain, who opened the original Santo in Mexico City in 2021, partnered with The Art of Travel podcast host Olivia Lopez for Barr Seco. The two recruited New York chef David Potes (formerly of Okonomi in Brooklyn) to develop Barr Seco’s day-to-night menu. Daytime offerings are available starting September 22 and include a matcha yogurt bowl, tomato miso soup, and a spicy tuna salad bocadillo sandwich. To drink are matcha horchatas, aguas frescas, and jamaica spritzes, along with Dayglow Coffee, Mexican Coke, and Topo Chico.

After 5 p.m., Potes assembles plates of marinated almonds, charcuterie, and oysters with a yuzu ponzu mignonette. Heartier dishes also appear on the dinner menu, like a scallop crudo with tomatillo, an adobo-marinated pork tostada, and spicy vodka strozzapreti pasta. Former Kismet sommelier Kae Whalen curated Barr Seco’s natural wine list with by-the-glass options ranging from $14 to $17.

Justin Chung

Barr Seco’s lived-in neighborhood feel comes from architect Lena Kohl. Similar to her work at La Cha Cha Chá, Loreto, and Maizano, Kohl customized the interior design with the custom bar, banquette, and cabinets. Lopez sourced and commissioned LA and Mexican artists to fill the space with custom plates from LA- and Mexico City-based studio Ananas Ananas, tables from LA furniture designer Michael Felix, glassware from Highland Park designer Valerie Quant, and plateware from 1050 Grados in Oaxaca.

Since Santo opened in 2023, Silver Lake has seen ample newcomers, including Mideast Tacos, Camel Coffee, Salt & Straw, and the reincarnation of Cafe Tropical. More changes are on the way with the recent departure of Shake Shack and the impending Alimento closure on September 7.

The 3800 Sunset Boulevard address where both Santo and Barr Seco reside (along with Cafe Kitsune, Garrett Leight California Optical, Naturewell, Byredo perfumery, and Wasteland clothing boutique) experienced controversy in 2019 when Engine Real Estate purchased the property with a bold plan for gentrifying the space. The property’s tenants at the time, which included several longtime businesses like Flore Vegan, were forced to vacate. Flore Vegan closed permanently in December 2023 after relocating the business.

Barr Seco is located at 3820 Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA, 90026, and is open from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Tuesday through Wednesday and closes at 10 p.m. on Sunday. The cafe opens at 10 a.m. starting on September 22.

Drew Escriva

Drew Escriva

Drew Escriva

Mona Holmes