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Garden Hoops and Row Covers for Pest Control, Shade & Frost Protection

Woden raised garden beds are covered with hoops an row covers, protecting the seedlings growing in the beds.

Last Updated on September 30, 2023

Hoops and row covers are an invaluable tool in our organic garden. We use hoops and various fabric garden covers to protect young sprouts and seedlings from the beaks of wild birds, shade tender greens on abnormally warm days, block out the dreaded white cabbage moths, cover plants from frost, and more. Truth be told, I was hesitant to use hoops and row covers in our raised garden beds in the past. I was worried they’d look unsightly… yet I have come to cherish them more than I ever thought I could!

Read along to learn all about using hoops and row covers. Garden bed covers come in many shapes, materials, and styles – and have numerous valuable uses. First we’ll talk about different garden bed hoop options, including pre-made hoops or DIY hoops for raised beds. Once you have hoops, you can use them with various types of plant covers including garden insect netting, shade fabric, or frost cloth. Last but not least, we’ll address one potential drawback of using garden row covers – inhibiting pollinators. 


Four raised garden beds are in the foreground, each one has a row cover draped over the top of it. The cover is fine mesh white insect netting and it is supported with metal hoops that are inserted into the inside of each garden bed allowing room for the plants below. There are various flowering perennials around the beds, the flowers ranging from purple to pink to yellow and blue. There are cacti, vines, and various trees around the perimeter.
Hoops and insect netting in use in our old front yard garden.

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The Basics: What Are Garden Hoops and Row Covers?


Individual garden plots, raised beds, or sections thereof can be shrouded with row covers. Also known as “floating row covers”, their purpose is to block out or otherwise protect plants from undesirable elements.

Some garden covers are designed to stop insects or other pests. Other row covers may have the purpose of shielding plants from excess sun or cold, used during unusual weather events or to generally extend the growing season. On a larger scale, hoop houses (similar to greenhouses) can accomplish the same results.

Traditionally, hoops are used to support various garden covers at the gardeners desired height over the plants. Some covers are held even higher on tall supporting structures, allowing space for taller plants (or even people!) underneath. Other gardeners skip the hoops and lay light garden row covers directly on top of the plants themselves. That is, as long as the plants are mature enough to not get crushed.


Using several types of covers at once in our new garden. This photo was taken during a heat wave in early fall – shielding tender leafy greens with shade cloth while the other more heat-tolerant seedlings are covered with insect netting to block pests and birds.


Raised Garden Bed Hoop Options


Garden bed hoops can be made of metal, conduit pipe, PVC plastic, or other materials. You can purchase pre-made hoops, or make DIY garden bed hoops! See both options below. Then we’ll talk more about various row cover material in the pest, shade, and frost cloth sections to follow.


Pre-Made Garden Bed Hoops


In our garden, we use sleek metal wire pre-made hoops for our raised garden beds. I personally love the no-fuss installation, lightweight material, and ease of taking them in and out of the beds as needed. They stack nicely in a neat pile when they’re not in use. Since the hoops have two rows of wire/stakes, the hoops can’t tip side to side. Overall, I love the way they look! 

Our favorite garden bed hoops come in two sizes: super hoops and high-rise hoops. We have the shorter super hoop option, which fits perfectly over shorter plants in 2, 3, and 3.5-foot wide raised beds. To fit 4-foot garden beds and wider, we use these base extender stakes to help the hoops stay more secure while also gaining some nice additional height. (The hoops fit okay without the bases in 4 foot wide beds, but are fairly short and would be best to cover seedlings or low-growing plants.)

Depending on the length of your beds and weight of the plant cover fabric, you’ll want two or three hoops per garden bed. In a modest square bed (about 4-foot by 4-foot), two hoops work perfectly. In beds longer than 5 feet, we prefer to use three hoops: one at each end, and one in the middle to prevent the row cover from drooping.

There are many other pre-made garden bed hoops out there to explore as well.


Four raised garden beds are shown with metal hoops inserted into the edges of the beds, making a perfect support for protective row covers. There are various winter vegetable plants planted throughout the beds. The perimeter of the image contains various vines, perennials, trees, and shrubs, all basking in the evening sun.
Our old front yard garden raised beds, outfitted with Super Hoops from Gardener’s Supply. The garden beds in the foreground are 3 feet wide (without bases), and the ones in the back are 4.5 wide.
A close up image of metal garden hoops with extenders making the hoops taller so larger plants can grow comfortably under the row covers. A row of cabbage is growing up and around the hoop emerging from the edge of the garden bed.
The addition of base extenders give our hoops some extra height and stability in 4 foot wide beds.


The “high rise” super hoop option is perfect to cover even larger garden beds, or over taller plants like tomatoes. Hint: the high-rise option is simply two of the smaller versions that connect in the middle. Therefore, you can use those as shorter hoops too! Again, we mostly use row covers over small seedlings and greens, so we don’t need a huge amount of space under them. Therefore we haven’t tried the high-rise option.


DIY PVC Garden Bed Hoops


One common method is to create DIY hoops for raised beds using PVC pipe. Slender ½-inch PVC pipe can be bent in an arch over a garden plot or raised bed and then secured in place on each side.

To add PVC DIY hoops to a wood raised garden bed, you can attach the pipe directly to the bed with pipe straps (a more permanent installation). Or, create a sleeve for the hoop pipes to slide in and out of, making it easy to remove the hoops when not in use. This can be done by attaching larger 1-inch wide pipe sections to the inside or outside corners of the raised bed, and then sliding each end of the smaller ½” hoop pipe into them. A similar design can be done with metal pipes, but you’ll need a pipe bender tool for that.


A two part image collage, the first image shows a small raised bed that has half inch PVC pipe connected to the sides of the bed with metal pipe clamps. The PVC arches over the bed and is connected to the other side in the same fashion. White netting is being used as a row cover and has been pulled up on one side to show how the hoop is connected. The bed is mostly full of soil and a few non descript plants. The second image is a close up of the PVC pipe connected to the corner of the outside of the garden bed with two metal pipe clamps connecting it to the bed.
Option 1: A more permanent installation of DIY PVC pipe hoops attached directly to a raised bed using pipe straps. Photo courtesy of Peaceful Valley
PVC pipe used as a hoop connected to the inside of a raised garden bed is shown. There is larger PVC piping that is connected to the inside corners of the bed while the PVC that is used for the hoop has be inserted into the larger diameter pipe so it can be inserted and removed as needed. The larger PVC diameter pipe is connected with metal pipe clamps. The raised bed is also devoid of soil to show how the hoops are attached.
Option 2: Attaching larger 1-inch PVC pipe “sleeves” to the garden bed with pipe straps, then sliding the smaller 1/2″ hoop pipe inside. This style is easier to remove or modify when desired. Photo courtesy of VeganStreet. This looks a lot like the simple design that we use to build raised garden beds.


How to Secure Plant Row Covers to Garden Hoops


Secure fabric plant covers with any type of sturdy clip that fits around your chosen garden bed hoops. We love these durable metal clamps. They’re made to attach to larger PVC garden bed hoops, but clip snugly right on to the wood sides of our raised beds! (Shown below). These mini clips are ideal for attaching the row covers right to our wire hoops. We usually use a combination of both types, but have even used binder clips and clothespins in a pinch! For PVC hoops, you could also try these specialized clips.

Tuck in the sides of the row cover down inside the bed, especially if you’re trying to keep out small sneaky critters. If needed, use bricks or other heavy objects to pin the row cover fabric tightly to the ground, which can also be helpful when it’s windy.


The corner of a raised garden bed is pictured. Frost cloth is draped over the top of the bed and a large metal clip is being used to attach the cloth to the bed itself.
All tucked in, with the help of these large sturdy metal clips.
A small metal clip is being used to attach the insect netting to a hoop as it protects vegetables growing in a raised garden bed.
These strong smaller clips easily attach mesh insect netting covers to our metal hoops (instead of to the beds)


Other Ways to Support Garden Plant Covers


Classic hoops aside, there are many other ways to support garden covers. For example, you could build a wood frame around your garden bed to hang row cover fabric over.  I’ve also seen gardeners put traditional stakes in the corners and center of their garden bed, add a tennis ball on top of each stake (to prevent the stakes from puncturing the row cover) and then drape the plant covers over the stakes. Really, the options are endless if you think outside the box!


Using Hoops and Row Covers for Organic Pest Control


Hoops and row covers are an excellent choice for organic pest control. Acting as a physical barrier, they can protect plants from a wide array of pests without the need for pesticides or other products. In addition to insects, raised garden bed covers can protect plants from larger critters including squirrels, rabbits, birds, skunks, opossums, rodents, deer, free-ranging chickens, or even neighborhood cats.


Garden Insect Netting


To block both insects and birds, we love and use this popular fine-mesh garden insect netting. After many years of use, it’s still in perfect condition! We bought a large roll/sheet and cut it down to fit our raised garden beds as needed, though you can also buy it in smaller bed-size sections. Tip: if you’re trying to estimate the size you need, practice with an old sheet.

Keep the garden insect netting covers closed and tucked in around the sides to keep out rodents, rabbits, and a variety of pest insects including cucumber beetles, squash bugs, leaf miners, whitefly, and leafhoppers. Garden insect netting covers can also prevent cabbage moths, squash vine borer moths, and tobacco or tomato hornworm moths from accessing the covered plants. If the adult moths and butterflies can’t get to the plants, they can’t lay eggs – which later turn into pest caterpillars!


Garden Bird Netting


As much as I love wild birds, they’re one of the biggest “pests” in our garden too! They especially like to pick at tender new seedlings and leafy greens. I recommend using this same garden insect netting to protect plants from birds as well. The classic loose-weave black bird netting is dangerous for wild birds and other wildlife, as they easily get tangled it. Plus, why not keep both insects and birds out at the same time?


Raised garden beds with row covers shown tucked around the outside edges of the beds and held tightly together with clothespins. There are various flowering perennials growing around the beds with pink, orange, yellow, purple, and red flowers amongst varying shades of green.
Tucking in the insect netting row covers (doubling as bird protection) tightly around the edges.
A raised garden bed full of bok choy, mustard greens, kale, and komatsuna growing upwards amongst metal hoops that are arched over the raised bed.
In addition to blocking birds, the netting also keeps cabbage moths away from our greens – leaving them looking fresh and hole-free!


Using Hoops and Row Covers to Shade Plants in Hot Weather


Shade cloth has the ability to keep the soil and plants below it significantly cooler than without. Combined with mulch, shade cloth also reduces evaporation to keep soil moist and thus reduce the need to water as frequently during hot conditions.

We often use garden hoops and shade cloth to cover tender leafy greens like lettuce and bok choy when unseasonably warm weather hits, helping to extend their life in our garden. Without shade cloth, they’re more prone to bolting (going to flower and seed) and becoming bitter when exposed to high heat. The same applies to broccoli, cauliflower, radishes, spinach, and other cool season crops.

Therefore, using shade cloth garden covers allows spring-planted cool season crops to survive longer into the summer months, as well as protect summer-planted fall seedlings during late season heat waves. Gardeners in hotter climates like Arizona, Hawaii, Texas, or Florida may rely on protecting their garden with shade cloth all summer long! There, even heat-loving summer crops like tomatoes and squash appreciate some relief from the otherwise blistering sun.


Under the canopy of a raised bed covered in black shade cloth. Bok choy, mustard greens, and chard are growing nicely underneath its protection.
Bok choy and mustard greens, looking perky and fresh under shade cloth despite the 80+ degree weather.


Types of shade cloth garden covers


Shade cloth comes in a variety of ratings, most often expressed by the percentage of UV rays it will block. Clearly, plants still need some sun to photosynthesize and grow! Shade cloth around 30 to 60% is usually ideal to both cool plants as well as allow adequate light through. 30% shade cloth is great for most instances and plants, while leafy greens may fare best with a higher rating shade cover in extra hot conditions.

In addition to covering individual garden beds with hoops and shade cover, you can also hang it high above a larger garden space on stakes or arbors, between trees, or even from your house roof. We also use shade cloth in our greenhouse when needed. Shade cloth is available in black, white, green and sometimes tan. All options effectively prevent some heat and sunlight from passing through to the plants below.


Shade cloth is draped over slender metal hoops in a wood raised garden bed, protecting the plants (broccoli) from extreme heat and sun during a heat wave.


Using Hoops and Row Covers for Frost Protection


Similar to shade cloth, garden frost cloth fabric can create a desirable microclimate for the plants below. In fact, frost cloth (aka garden fleece or frost blankets) can protect plants from frost damage even in outdoor temperatures as low as 20 degrees – depending on the rating and thickness used! See frost cloth rating information to follow.

In the springtime, frost cloth row covers enables northern gardeners to start seeds outdoors earlier in season, warming the soil for a more quick and successful germination. Garden frost cover can also protect tender just-transplanted seedlings from cool spring nights or a sudden frost warning. In the fall and winter, garden frost covers can help mature plants survive and continue to grow even after frost arrives.

When all else fails, you can also grab old bed sheets to protect plants if frost is in the forecast. Bed sheets aren’t quite as strong or guaranteed as specialized frost row covers, but on a chilly night, they’re better than nothing! If you secure sheets or row covers well enough on garden hoops, they can also shield plants against hail, wind, or other inclement weather.


A raised bed garden with many raised beds and metal arches are set atop gravel. About half of the raised beds have been covered with frost cloth to prevent the plants from freezing, while the other beds show frost on top of the exposed soil
Frost cloth doing it’s job, protecting early spring seedlings during a frost.
A hand is pinching the top of frost cloth covering a raised bed to show the frozen water droplets on top of the fabric.
Frozen ice drops on top of our frost cloth, with tender seedlings safely protected below.


Garden frost cloth ratings and thickness


Frost blankets or garden fleece is available in various sizes, ratings, and thickness. See the chart below. Here where it rarely gets below 30F, we use a fairly lightweight frost cloth (.55 oz). Colder climate gardeners would want to choose something thicker, such as this 1.2 oz cloth or this heavy-duty 1.5 oz frost cloth. Some even come in a dome-shape, ready to cover shrubs or small trees.

Keep in mind that the thicker the fabric, the more heat it will trap in and less sunlight it will let through during the day. So, you may want to open up your frost cloth during warmer days, especially if you are covering plants for many days in a row.


Related: 7 Ways to Protect Plants from Frost Damage. Please see this article for even more tips on using frost cloth (e.g. opening it during the day or not).


A chart graphic showing the different weights of frost cloth available and their corresponding light transmission, temperature control, sizes, and applicable plants.
Frost cover rating chart from AgFabric, which you can purchase in various thickness and sizes here. This chart says temperature control “below 28” etc, but I would play it safe and read those as “down to” X degrees (not below).
A nine part image that shows the various thickness of a variety of frost cloth. From thin to fairly visible through the cloth to thick and not much visibility through it. The Wright of the cloth starts at .5 ounce to 3.5 ounce.
The thicker the fabric, the colder temperatures it can protect against… but the more light it blocks as well.


Pollinators: A Potential Drawback to Using Garden Row Covers


Maybe you’ve already considered it… but how will the pollinators get in if the plants are covered? Plants that rely on pollinators to set fruit, such as squash or cucumbers, are a bit trickier to protect than other crops. Therefore, hoops and row covers are most popular to prevent pests on young seedlings, leafy greens, brassicas (cabbage family), and root vegetables – all of which don’t need pollination.

However, it is still possible to use row covers for plants that do need pollination! You’ll just need to get creative and use a little personal trial-and-error. Keep those plants covered while they’re young. Then, once they begin to flower, you could either hand-pollinate, or open your row covers during key times of day when pollinators are active in your garden. Plants like tomatoes and bell peppers are usually self-fruitful and will do okay when covered.

Are you growing squash? Be sure to check out this article all about hand-pollinating zucchini and squash plants. Row covers or no row covers, we always hand-pollinate our squash to prevent end rot – even with plenty of bees buzzing around our garden.


Raised garden beds are shown at dusk, covered with row covers. The sky is shown in the background, a bright glowing orange sun has illuminated the horizon with shades of pink and purple mixed in. There are various trees and plants that are visible in the dwindling light.
Stay safe, baby plants.


And those are some of the ways to use garden hoops and row covers.


What do you think? Do you already use hoops and row covers in your garden beds? Or will this be a new and exciting addition for you? In all, I hope you found this article to be useful and interesting. As you can see, hoops and row covers can be incredibly useful AND attractive-looking! Please feel free to ask questions or leave feedback in the comments below. See you next time!


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Deanna Talerico (aka DeannaCat) is a garden educator and writer with over 15 years experience in organic gardening. She is a retired Senior Environmental Health Specialist, and holds a M.A. in Environmental Studies and B.S. in Sustainability and Natural Resources.

41 Comments

  • Marylynn

    Hi Deanna,
    I live in the high desert of Arizona where it frequently gets above 90 degress, so I have to shade my tomatoes pretty much every day, let alone when we get a heat wave when it’s over 100 degrees. My question is though, aside from the shade cloth kit from Gardeners Supply (I love them, but I don’t have 6 weeks to spare waiting for their products to arrive), do you have any advice besides hoops for shade cloth support? I’ve already tried super hoops but they are not really stable enough especially because it can get quite windy here with the monsoon weather pattern. Maybe use those metal stakes for fencing and somehow lash the shade cloth through the grommet holes? Any suggestions?

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Marylynn, the super hoops work great for smaller crops like lettuce, greens, cabbage, etc. but won’t work great for full sized tomatoes. T posts would work great to support your shade cloth but they can be a bit of work to get them into the ground depending on if you have a t post pounder or not, there are shade cloth clips that you can then clip onto your shade cloth and use some rope or paracord to attach the corners to the posts as the t posts have a studded end which can help hold the rope in place. Hope that helps and good luck!

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Angie, not it’s not too late, while you don’t want to trap grasshoppers (or other pest insects) inside the netting, it will definitely help keep most of the grasshoppers off of your plants. Just keep an eye on your plants to make sure nothing is inside the netting or continuing to damage the plants. Hope that helps and have fun growing!

  • Lisa S.

    Do you get holes in your insect netting, and if so how did you go about repairing it? I bought the same insect netting (love it!) and there are some places where the clips have stretched holes due to the wind and these areas may allow the brassica pests on. Needle and thread?

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Lisa, we have seemed to get holes more in our frost cloth than what we get in our insect netting as it seems to hold up pretty well for us. I would think a needle and thread would work to at least pull the holes together, if there are only a few small holes here and there, I likely wouldn’t be too worried about it though as long as most of the growing area is covered. Hope that helps and have fun growing!

  • Mariangela

    Love all the tips & resource links – got the hoops, row cover, insect barrier, etc HOWEVER my little direct sowed radishes and carrots were consumed by the still thriving pill bugs in the soil! I kept everyone else out and then saw all the seedlings disappeared. What amount of diacetomous earth could address the situation? I had already added new soil, amended with compost and kelp meal. Help!

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Mariangela, DE works but if you have to water your seedlings or even before the seeds sprout, DE is rendered useless while it’s wet. If you have any melons or potatoes, you can set melon peels flesh side down on the soil, or cut a potato in half, scoop out some of the flesh from the middle and set the potato in the soil flesh side down. The pill bugs will be drawn to feed on the moist and dark areas under the fruit and veggie scraps. From there, each day, pull up the scraps and dispose of the pill bugs elsewhere. Beer traps will also work for pill bugs and slugs if it’s an easier option for you as well. Hope that helps and good luck on keeping those pill bugs away from your radish and carrot sprouts!

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