Join Waitlist We will inform you when the product arrives in stock. Please leave your valid email address below.

7 Ways to Protect Garden Plants From Frost: Covers, Mulch, and More

Last Updated on October 18, 2024

Don’t let the cold stop you from gardening, or kill your precious plants! Come learn several easy and inexpensive ways to protect your garden plants from frost. All it takes is a little creativity and preparation.

This post will cover seven effective garden frost protection methods and tips, including the use of garden bed covers, cloches, mulch, careful selection of plant varieties, watering and more. We’ll also explore frequently asked questions about what kinds of plants need frost protection (or not) and at what temperatures.

A planting calendar for Zone 7, it has many different vegetables lined up on the left side of the chart and all of the months of the year listed on the top of the chart. Each vegetable has different colored lines that correspond with when to start seeds inside, transplant outdoors, and plant seeds outside, along with corresponding last frost date and first frost date where applicable. The lines start left to right, showing what months you should do each particular task depending on the season and where you live.
Do you know your area’s frost dates? Use our Homestead and Chill planting calendars (available for every USDA hardiness zone) to see and plan! The vertical blue line represents the average last frost date in spring, while the vertical red line represents the average first frost in fall.

Would you like to save this?

We'll email this post to you, so you can come back to it later!

Disclosure: Homestead and Chill is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.


How Frost Damages (or Benefits) Plants


When plants are exposed to freezing temperatures and frost (which can occur at 36°F or below), ice crystals form and burst plant cells – most commonly within their leaves. When this happens, it disrupts the plants ability to provide water or nutrients to those areas. In turn, frost-damaged leaves or plant tissues appear soggy, scorched, dark, thin, and limp. Young and tender plants are the most susceptible to frost damage, so they will need more protection during a cold snap. 

Keep in mind that even if they look sad, many plants can bounce back from mild frost damage! Frost usually impacts fresh new growth and the outer perimeter leaves the most, but that doesn’t mean the plant roots are dead or won’t continue to grow. Plus, many cold-tolerant perennial plants and trees go dormant during the winter time. They shed their leaves and hunker down for the winter, rebounding with fresh green growth come spring.

Some plants even benefit from extended periods of cold. For instance, many fruit trees require a certain number of “chill hours” to properly develop fruit. Kale and other members of the brassica family become increasingly sweet in flavor after a kiss of frost!


Rows of lettuce plants are toppled over, brown and wilted after damage by frost.
Sad limp lettuce damaged by frost. Photo from Missouri Botanical Garden


Which plants should I protect from frost? Hardy versus tender plants


Frost doesn’t impact all plants equally. Plants are characterized by the degree of cold temperatures they can tolerate, classified as either “hardy” or “tender”. 

Tender plants have soft, succulent tissues and are easily damaged or killed by freezing temperatures (unless protected). Examples of tender plants include summer garden crops like tomatoes, basil, cucumber, squash, peppers, and eggplant along with tropical fruit trees (citrus, mango, banana, avocados), succulents, most annual flowers, and common houseplants. Young sprouts and seedlings are also considered tender, even if they’ll grow up to be cold-tolerant plants (such as broccoli or cabbage seedlings). 

On the other hand, hardy plants can withstand frost or short-term freezing conditions. Hardy annual vegetable plants include common cool season crops like cabbage, broccoli, kale, cauliflower, Swiss chard, carrots, radishes, turnips, and beets. Once established, these types of plants should readily survive a light frost or even temperatures in the high 20s with little-to-no protection.

Some cool season crops are more on the tender side, like lettuce, mustards, and bok choy. These leafy greens do enjoy cooler conditions but their thin leaves will become more easily damaged when exposed to frost (without protection) than tougher, thick-leaf hardy vegetables.  


Our garden in early November after an unexpected light frost. As you can see, the tender butternut squash vines were damaged by frost and wilted (and some of the most exposed fruit had frost damage too) while the hardy cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower plants in the other beds were not impacted by the frost at all.


Preparing Your Garden for Frost


In addition to physically covering garden beds and plants to protect them during a frost or freeze warning (which we’ll cover next), there are a number of easy ways to proactively prepare your garden plants for frost too.


  • Choose season-appropriate plants. Meaning, grow heat-loving plants in the summer time and cold hardy plants in the early spring, fall, or winter garden. This may sound like common sense, but could confuse new gardeners! For instance, even though it’s called “winter squash”, hard squash and pumpkins should be grown during the summer; they’re not frost tolerant.

  • Select varieties thoughtfully. Certain varieties of kale, spinach, or cabbage may be more frost-tolerant than others. If you have harsh winters, selecting the most hardy varieties will help the plants survive longer! Different plant cultivars also have varying days to maturity, which is important to consider if you have an especially short growing season. Choosing faster-maturing options can help maximize your harvest before the deep freeze sets in.

  • Harden off seedlings. If you start seeds indoors like we do, be sure to harden off seedlings by gradually introducing them to outdoor conditions before transplanting them outside. All seedlings are fairly frost-sensitive, but especially those that haven’t been properly acclimated first.

  • Have an action plan. Keep an eye on your weather forecast, and have a plan in place (including necessary supplies on-hand) to respond to frost and freeze warnings. Be ready to harvest any remaining frost-sensitive fruit, or cover crops as needed. Many northern gardeners leave hoops on their garden beds year-round, making it easy to throw frost cloth over in a jiffy.


Frost tolerant green curly kale with frost and ice covering the tips of its leaves.
Curly kale or “Scotch” kale is exceptionally frost-tolerant compared to smooth-leaf varieties, though all kale is pretty hardy!


At what low overnight temperature should I cover my plants?


It depends on the hardiness and age of plant.

According to the National Weather Service, frost advisories are usually issued when overnight temperatures are forecasted to be between 33 and 36°F. During a frost warning, plan to cover young seedlings, tropical plants, summer garden crops, and other tender (cold-sensitive) plants. Just to be safe, I’d consider protecting those types of plants with a forecast of 40 or below since the weather forecast isn’t always accurate!

Freeze warnings are issued when temperatures below 32°F are forecasted, and when significant and widespread freezing is expected. Cover, move, or otherwise protect tender plants during hard freeze warnings. Even hardy and mature winter garden crops will appreciate added protection when temperatures dip below freezing, especially for an extended period of time. When in doubt, cover them!

Frost and freezing is also more likely to occur in rural areas or open microclimates that are less sheltered by buildings, roads, and trees. We learned that lesson the hard way when we moved to “the country” and started seeing significantly more frost than at our old urban homestead, even with similar overnight lows predicted!


After a few unexpected frosts at our new homestead, we got a personal home weather station so we could more accurately monitor temperatures in our garden microclimate.


How to Protect Plants from Frost


Now let’s explore 7 effective ways to protect your garden from frost, including hoops and frost cloth, plastic poly tunnels, cloches, cold frames, sheltered planting locations, mulch, and watering practices. I’ve included a few tips for protecting potted plants from frost too!


1) Cover Garden Beds with Frost Cloth, Blankets or Fabric


One of the best ways to protect plants from freezing conditions is with specialized frost cloth or fabric garden bed covers, also known as horticultural fleece.

Perched over vulnerable plants (usually supported by hoops) frost cloth offers added insulation and shields against the icy moist air. In fact, garden frost covers can protect plants from frost damage even in outdoor temperatures as low as 20 degrees – depending on the type of frost cloth used! Garden fabric warms the soil, which protects roots and also helps spring-planted seedlings grow better during otherwise chilly conditions.

Garden frost covers are available in various shapes, sizes, and temperature ratings. See the chart below. Here where it rarely gets below 30F, we use a fairly lightweight frost cloth (.55 oz). Colder climate gardeners would want to choose something thicker, such as this 1.2 oz cloth or this heavy-duty 1.5 oz frost cloth. We usulaly buy large sheets/rolls and then cut it to fit over individual garden beds. Some frost covers even come in a dome-shape, ready to cover shrubs or small trees.

In a pinch, something as simple as an old bed sheet, blanket, drop cloth, roll of burlap, or sleeping bag can help protect plants from frost damage too. 


A number of raised bed gardens are covered with hoops and frost cloth to protect the tender seedlings underneath from frost.
Protecting just-planted tender seedlings with frost cloth during a spring frost warning in our new garden
A nine part image that shows the various thickness of a variety of frost cloth. From thin to fairly visible through the cloth to thick and not much visibility through it. The Wright of the cloth starts at .5 ounce to 3.5 ounce.
Frost fabric is available in different thicknesses and weights (AgFabric). The higher the number, the thicker the fabric and the colder the temperatures it is rated to protect plants from… but the more light it blocks as well.
A chart graphic showing the different weights of frost cloth available and their corresponding light transmission, temperature control, sizes, and applicable plants.
Frost cover rating chart from AgFabric, which you can purchase in various thickness and sizes here. This chart says temperature control “below 28” etc, but I would play it safe and read that as “down to” X degrees (not below). Also note the light transmission ratings.
Plants or shrubs are hidden within thick burlap cloth and horticultural fleece, most are in the shape of a triangle or teepee. Snow is on the ground surrounding the plants with pine type trees in the background. Protect plants from frost to be able to grow well into the winter.
An example of using burlap and horticultural fleece to protect shrubs and small trees.
A raised garden bed is shown covered with a sheet supported by hoops. Some areas that don't receive too cold of weather may be able to protect plants from frost with lighter coverings or protection means.
At our old urban homestead we rarely got frost at all, so we never invested in proper frost cloth. Instead, I grabbed an old bed sheet one night during a freak frost warning.


Quick Tips on Using Garden Bed Frost Covers


  • If possible, keep garden frost fabric slightly elevated above the plants by supporting it on hoops, stakes, or other clever means. If the covers are in direct contact with the plants and become wet and frozen themselves, it can easily freeze the plants below. We use these sleek metal garden bed hoops, along with these base extenders for a little added height and stability.

  • Secure the covers to hoops with sturdy clips such as binder clips, clothespins, or other specialized clamps. Also be sure to tuck the covers in (or pin them down) around the sides and bottom as much as possible. We love these durable metal clamps, which clip right on to the side of our raised beds. These mini clips are ideal for attaching the row covers right to our wire hoops. (We usually use a combination of both types.)

  • In a pinch, it’s okay to lightly drape frost covers directly on top of plants. That is, as long as it’s lightweight and/or the plants are mature enough that it won’t smash them. It’s better than not covering them at all!

  • Cover plants from frost mostly overnight. You can typically leave transparent cloches, sheet plastic supported on hoops, and most frost covers on during extra cold days as well. Yet if you’re using extra thick frost blankets, opaque sheets, or dark buckets, it is best to remove the covers during the day. Pull them back in late morning as temperatures warm so the plants can continue to get sun, fresh air, and photosynthesize. Plants can survive without sunlight for a couple days, but will become increasingly unhappy the longer they’re covered.


See this article for a more in-depth look at using hoops and row covers for pest control, frost protection and shade cover (including DIY hoop options).


The corner of a raised garden bed is pictured. Frost cloth is draped over the top of the bed and a large metal clip is being used to attach the cloth to the bed itself.
These metal clamps are ideal for connecting row cover directly to thick hoops (like PVC hoops), but we also found they grab onto the sides of our raised beds really well!


2) Use Plastic or Poly Tunnels


Sheets of thick plastic (like greenhouse plastic, or even a tarp) can be used in a similar manner as fabric row covers to protect plants from frost and snow. When supported on a series of arched hoops, they’re referred to as polytunnels.

One benefit of polytunnels is that they don’t block sunlight (assuming clear plastic is used), so they don’t need to be completely removed for the plants to photosynthesize like thicker frost cloth. However, plastic isn’t nearly as breathable as fabric garden frost covers, so it’s important to open the ends of the tunnels during the daytime to give plants some much-needed airflow.


Two rows of poly tunnels are shown amongst a foot or sow of snow that has covered the surrounding landscape. Hoops are used to support the thick plastic covering.
My friend Meg’s (@seedtofork) Minnesota garden in winter. A prime example of using polytunnels (thick plastic supported on hoops) to protect and insulate garden beds.


3) Cover Individual Plants with Cloches


Cloches are ideal for protecting a handful of individual small plants from frost, rather than covering an entire garden bed or area. Cloches are dome-shaped (often made of clear plastic) and sit over plants to act like a mini greenhouse. You can purchase cloches or turn average buckets, food storage containers, cut milk jugs, 2-gallon soda bottles, or other random materials into homemade ones!


4) Grow in a Cold Frame


Cold frames are small structures that cover plants or garden beds, designed to protect them from freezing conditions. Similar to a mini greenhouse, cold frames made of transparent materials such as clear plastic or glass that allows sunlight in. They are constructed fairly low to the ground and close to the plants. Create a simple DIY cold frame by laying old windows or frames of plastic over a raised garden bed. 


A raised garden bed with small seedlings growing with is shown. Glass windows framed in wood are leaning against the backside of the bed. The windows will be laid over the top of the bed to protect plants from frost.
A simple raised bed cold frame, created by my friend Crystal @wholefedhomestead who gardens in Wisconsin. During freezing nights, she slides the glass windows over the raised bed and sometimes also covers them with blankets. Then during the day, she pulls them back so the plants can get fresh air and sunshine.


5) Protected Locations


Careful site selection for frost-sensitive plants will make both of your lives easier! Tender plants will be significantly more happy in a protected location. Plus, you’ll save time, energy and stress by not having to fuss over them so much. Therefore, it’s best to avoid planting tender perennial plants in open spaces where they’re fully exposed to cold air and wind. 

You can find or create a microclimates within any yard space! For example, plant less hardy trees and shrubs near a west or south-facing wall or structure to provide valuable radiant heat and create a space that is several degrees warmer than nearby open areas. It will also help to block chilly gusts of wind. Large shrubs, fences, boulders, and canopy cover from trees offer similar protection for nearby plants.

For example, we recently planted a row of pineapple guava and loquats (both hardy below 20F) that will grow into a large living wall and help shelter the nearby sensitive avocado trees from cold wind.


We created frost cloth tents to protect our sensitive young avocado trees, especially while we wait for the living green screen to grow in around them.


Protecting potted plants in winter


To protect potted plants from frost, move them to a more sheltered location such as indoors, against the house or under eaves, to a covered porch or greenhouse, or even under the shelter of a large tree. Clustering many potted plants together also helps. Mobility is a definite perk when it comes to winterizing potted plants!

On the other hand, potted plants are more susceptible to frost damage because their roots aren’t as insulated as those planted in the ground. Thus, in addition to adding frost cover on top, you may want to wrap the pots of especially sensitive plants (or, on freakishly cold nights) with a blanket, horticultural fleece, or even bubble wrap for added protection. Also, don’t forget the mulch!


Small terra cotta pots with tender seedlings sit atop a slatted wood bench. It has been affixed with corrugated green house plastic framed to the outside of the bench to protect the plants from frost.
Another excellent and simple DIY cold-frame design from my friend Kirsty @my_little_allotment in her UK garden, using sheets of corrugated greenhouse plastic. The fence behind them is also keeping the potted plants more protected and warm.


6) Mulch


Cover bare soil! Mulch adds a protective layer that insulates soil, buffers again temperature swings, holds in warmth, and can prevent the ground (and roots) from freezing. This goes for potted plants too! A few excellent mulch options include compost, small bark, wood chips, straw, and chopped leaves or leaf mold. Read more about the pros and cons of 8 popular types of garden mulch here. 

Applying a nice deep layer of organic mulch around the base of shrubs, young trees, evergreens, or tender perennials will help protect the plants from frost damage. Aim for about 2 to 4 inches deep. You could even cover low-lying plants completely with a layer of fluffy mulch (such as straw) for a short period of time.


A fenced in garden space that shows heavily mulched area with straw that has garlic growing. There are also may buckets that are turned upside down over plants to protect them from frost. The background contains many trees with chickens pecking around in the grass.
My friend Crystal’s garden (@wholefedhomestead), preparing for a freezing Wisconsin night ahead using several frost protection methods – including bucket cloches over individual plants, and deep straw mulch in her garlic patch.


7) Water Before a Frost


It may sound a little counter-intuitive, but watering your garden before an exceptionally chilly evening can help protect plants from frost damage. Stressed, thirsty plants are more susceptible to frost damage. Also, damp soil provides superior insulation, holds in heat, and freezes less deeply than dry soil.

When frost is looming, water earlier during the day. This gives the plants ample time to absorb water and get perky for the cool evening ahead. Keep in mind that damp soil is good, but overly soggy soil could actually make the problem worse. That also goes for any time in the garden! 

Take care to water the soil only and not intentionally wet the plant’s leaves. One frost prevention trick used in the agricultural industry is to directly spray plant foliage with water. However, that method is most effective when the water is continually sprayed throughout the period of freezing (such as overnight via overhead sprinklers in an orchard or vineyard) – not as a single application of water before a frost. When the spraying ceases, the water droplets left on the plant leaves will freeze. 


A couple rows of vegetable seedlings and plants are shown underneath row covers. Protect plants from frost with hoops and frost protecting row covers.
Another shot from my friend Meg’s garden (@seedtofork) in the spring. Gardening in Minnesota, she is able to significantly extend her short growing season by using hoops and row covers to warm the soil and air around the plants.


And that sums up this list of ways to protect your garden during frost.


All in all, many plants are more resilient than we think. Even tender veggie plants may recover from leaf scorch, wilt and browning caused by frost. Just give them some time. I hope this article gave you a few new ideas to extend your growing season! Did I miss any clever ways you protect your plants from frost? Let me know in the comments below, and feel free to ask questions as well.

To dive even deeper into the world of winter gardening, I highly suggest the book “The Year Round Vegetable Gardener” by Niki Jabbour. If you found value in this article, please spread the love by sharing it. As always, thank you for tuning in!


Don’t miss these related articles:



DeannaCat signature, keep on growing

Deanna Talerico (aka DeannaCat) is a garden educator and writer with over 15 years experience in organic gardening. She is a retired Senior Environmental Health Specialist, and holds a M.A. in Environmental Studies and B.S. in Sustainability and Natural Resources.

5 Comments

  • Eden

    Great article for garden frost protection. Thank you for giving ideas on how to maintain the beauty of the garden. Hope to read more from you.

  • Debbie

    One year we got an unexpected frost and I had read somewhere that if you watered the plants before the sun hits them (the sun breaks down the cells apparently) the plants can usually be saved. It worked but I wouldn’t want to chance it every time.

  • Edward Cantarella

    Great article. A tarp can help tremendously. I’m in Michigan, one eyar I planted(before 10 day forecasts) and freaked out – snow in late MAY!!! Threw every tomato cage I had out there for support, threw on a 30X60 tarp and prayed. 3 days later I looked. Better than just good – they actually thrived. I left the tarp on for a week after that. Didn’t want that hassle again.

  • Anne T.

    Hi Deanna,
    I live in Santa Barbara and subscribe to your website, Homestead and Chill.
    My lantana I planted in late August has splotchy leaves, a dusty type of mold underneath it, and stems with no flowers? Is this a bug? Or winter blight?
    Could you recommend a product to treat the disease?
    Thank you,
    Anne

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hello Anne, thank you for being a member of the community! It sounds like your lantana has powdery mildew, they should not be grown in the shade and may be more susceptible to mildew if done so. The ways to control powdery mildew are to spray with fungicides such as Green Cure or MilStop Broad Spectrum Foliar Fungicide which are mostly made of potassium bicarbonate. It is best to apply the foliar spray as a preventative to plants that are more susceptible to mildews. I have found that using a routine foliar spray with neem oil also helps to prevent mildew, here is the article if you are interested in looking into it further; How to Properly Emulsify Neem Oil & Make a Safe Garden Pest Spray. Hope that helps and good luck!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *