Beyoncé Knowles, 2012. Is skin bleaching consistent with indigenous African values? (source)
A Zambian-born sociologist visited his home village
with his white American wife and two of their children. Having lost his way, he
asked an elderly lady for directions. She gladly told him:
But then she said, addressing his
boys in the car, in the Tumbuka bantu
African language:
"Monile asungwana, muli uli?" ("Greetings girls, how are
you?")
At first, the author was
flustered as he assumed the woman could not see very well since the boys were
sitting in the car and their full bodies and clothes were concealed from her.
The author corrected her. She didn't seem perturbed at all. He thought to
himself how could she or anyone not see that these boys had no breasts, were
not wearing earrings, blouses, or dresses. His pubescent fifteen year-old had
even the beginnings of dark whiskers around his chin. The author dismissed the
incident and did not reflect on it again. But a couple of times again, total
strangers at a glance, while the two boys were sitting in the vehicle, referred
to them in the Tumbuka language as
"asungwana" or "those
girls". What surprised him was that these comments were not made in a mean
way or out of visual perceptual error. (Tembo, 2010, p. 5)
He came back to the United States and began writing
up an article about his visit. For this, he had to select a few photos from the
hundreds he had taken of men, women, and children from the village. Only then
did the answer to his puzzle dawn on him:
His children, who have quite
pronounced features of a Sub-Saharan African, but are light skinned compared to
many relatives in the village, stood out in all the group photographs. There
was nothing unusual about this obvious reality. But then he noticed something
very subtle; all women had lighter glowing ambience to their skins than men
although both men and women had dark skin tones. Some women had a definite
characteristic glow to their lighter dark skin compared to the other women and
the men. (Tembo, 2010, p. 6)
Women are in fact lighter-skinned than men
throughout the world, although this sex difference is larger in populations of
medium color than in those that are very pale or very dark (Frost, 2007;
Madrigal and Kelly, 2006; van den Berghe and Frost, 1986). Girls become
lighter-skinned than boys from puberty onward, apparently as part of sexual
maturation. For one thing, this post-pubescent lightening correlates in girls with
the post-pubescent thickening of subcutaneous fat (Mazess, 1967). For another,
it correlates with the digit ratio—a marker of the degree of prenatal
estrogenization (Manning et al., 2004).
This sexual dimorphism is paralleled by a traditional
tendency to associate women with the lighter end of the local spectrum of
complexions. Hence, the ideal woman was said to be "white" in Europe
and East Asia, "golden" in South-East Asia, and "red" in
sub-Saharan Africa.
The term "red" may puzzle non-Africans. It
actually means a reddish-brown-orange complexion, which is the lightest color
that occurs locally in normal individuals:
[...] in the Tumbuka bantu African language people describe women's beauty
saying: "Mwanakazi mswesi ndiye
muwemi comene" which translates as "A woman who is red-skinned is
most attractive". This is more accurate than what would be the
conventional translation: "A woman who is light skinned is most
attractive" (Tembo, 2010, p. 10).
When Africans speak of a beautiful woman, they may describe
her as "red" or even "white," thus seeming to emulate
European standards of beauty. On this point, Tembo (2010, p. 12) quotes the
lyrics of a Zambian song from the 1950s, "Maggie":
Ndifiga yako
Maggie ulinso
Mkazi woyera
A literal translation would be:
Your figure too
Maggie you are also
A white woman
Woyera does
mean "white" but not in an ethnic sense. Maggie is simply an African
woman with a naturally light complexion. Tembo argues that Africans and
non-Africans alike have misconstrued this indigenous norm of female beauty as
something that European colonialism has imposed. While not condoning skin
bleaching, he argues that this widespread practice among modern African women
is a logical consequence of indigenous aesthetic values.
A cultural norm
for African women?
This female norm is attested in many other
sub-Saharan societies:
The Bambara are not unmoved by
the beauty of a woman's form; they can distinguish a well-formed body from a
malformed one, a pretty woman from an ugly one, and they find a coppery skin
more attractive than one of ebony black. (Henry, 1910, p. 217)
In skin colour they vary from
black through chocolate brown to bronze, which the natives call "red"
(bon-ze'e) and regard as the most attractive bodily hue. (Fortes, 1945, p. 7)
Light skin colour, referred to as
"red", ranks high in the Hausa criteria of beauty; many variations of
colour, from black to a very light reddish brown are seen. (Smith, 1965, p. 264)
In Ibo culture, however, these
yellowish or reddish complexions are considered more beautiful than the darker,
'blacker,' complexions. [...] It is true that, in West Africa, government has
for many years been identified with pale-skinned Europeans, but the Ibo
evidence suggests that preference for paleness of complexion is indigenous.
(Ardener, 1954, pp. 71-72)
Of the women and girls, some with
babies, he kept the most beautiful in Zande eyes, those brightest of eye and
clearest of skin and with full breasts, for his couch. (Evans-Pritchard, 1937, p. 60)
Men and women affirm without any
hesitation that men are black, hot and hard and women are white, cold and soft.
(Holy, 1988, p. 471)
Men appreciate women of good
height and stature, with good hips and breasts, and plump but not fat. A
reddish tinged skin is thought highly of in preference to a dark dull black.
(Lewis, 1962, p. 13)
Further requirements for being
regarded as beautiful are an oval face, white teeth, black gums, a skin color
as light as possible ... (Merker, 1910, p. 18)
Beauty does not count very
heavily, but a man is not displeased if people notice that his wife is
attractive and well-fleshed, has a long and narrow nose, a light skin, and is
somewhat like a cow. (Albert, 1963, p. 203)
There is, in respect of the
ordinary negroid complexion, a preference for paleness deeply rooted in the
Ganda ideal of beauty. [...] The Ganda concept of skin pigmentation considers
light coloured complexions to be differing shades of white. A dark brown skin
colour is said to be eruyeru, that
is, somewhat white. A really brown-reddish-yellow person is said to be mweru = white, which in comparison would
be considered to be blonde; and this in the Ganda aesthetic language is
considered as red = myufu, the most
perfect skin pigmentation. (Lugira, 1970, pp. 34-35)
In the future the increasing use
of skin lightening creams such as "Ambi" may eventually reduce the
importance of natural skin color. But whatever the case, in Nairobi of the
1960's, as throughout much of Kenya, the lighter "brown" girls are
usually considered to be more beautiful than "black" girls — and the
more successful prostitutes are invariably "brown." (McVicar, 1969, p. 242)
Ila, Lunda, Luvale, and Chokwe (Zambia)
Here too words meaning literally
"white" are commonly used to refer to light skins though
"red" may also be used. Light skins are admired just as much as is
shown to occur among the Ibo, and young girls discussing the possible
attractions of various young men have often been heard to emphasize "very
black" as a point against someone. In the past at least one attraction of
a light skin apart from its intrinsic appeal was the fact that the tattooing
stood out against it in strong contrast. Very black skins are not infrequently
thought to go hand in hand with inherited witchcraft and a light skin to
indicate its absence. Dark-skinned women conscious of their possible
disadvantage have been heard to tell men that light-skinned women will be found
to be sexually unsatisfying. (White, 1954)
Young men say that what they like
in a girl is a light skin colour, a pretty face, and the ability to dance and
to copulate well. (Barnes, 1951, p. 30)
[...] the generally admired type
is a light-skinned girl of somewhat heavy build, with prominent breasts and
large, firm buttocks. (Schapera, 1966, p. 46)
A cultural norm
for African infants?
Lighter skin is a norm not only for African women
but also for African infants. All humans, in fact, are born pale (Grande et al., 1994; Kahlon, 1976; Walsh, 1964). This pallor is a striking contrast to
the darker color of adult Africans. In Kenya, newborn infants are often called mzungu ('European' in Swahili), and a
new mother may tell her neighbors to come and see her mzungu (Walentowitz, 2008). Among the Tuareg, children are said to
be born "white" because of the freshness and moisture of the womb
(Walentowitz, 2008). The cause is often thought to be a previous spiritual
life:
There is a rather widespread
concept in Black Africa, according to which human beings, before
"coming" into this world, dwell in heaven, where they are white. For,
heaven itself is white and all the beings dwelling there are also white.
Therefore the whiter a child is at birth, the more splendid it is. In other
words, at that particular moment in a person's life, special importance is
attached to the whiteness of his colour, which is endowed with exceptional
qualities. (Zahan, 1974, p. 385)
Another Africanist makes the same point: "black
is thus the color of maturity [...] White on the other hand is a sign of the
before-life and the after-life: the African newborn is light-skinned and the
color of mourning is white kaolin" (Maertens, 1978, p. 41).
What skin color
originally meant to humans … and to ancestral primates
In sub-Saharan Africa, perhaps more so than elsewhere,
we see the older, non-ethnic way of perceiving skin color, where darker skin
means an adult male and lighter skin an infant or an adult female. Facial skin
color can also signal whether a woman is younger or older, specifically through
the degree of luminous contrast between her face and her lips or eyes
(Porcheron et al., 2013). In this older perceptual system, skin color might
unconsciously prepare the observer for situationally appropriate behavior,
e.g., if the observed person is a woman or an infant, the mental threshold is
raised for expression of aggressive impulses and lowered for expression of
caring (Guthrie, 1970).
The pale skin of infants seems to be the oldest
component of this system, being present even in non-human primates. Among
langurs, baboons, and macaques, the skin is pink in newborns and almost black
in adults (Jay, 1962). The infant coloration apparently does more than help
parents find wayward offspring. As it disappears with age, juveniles no longer arouse
the same interest, are less often sought out and held by adult females, and
cease to arouse defensive reactions from adults when humans approach (Alley, 1980; Booth, 1962; Jay, 1962).
Although there are no primate species where the
adult female has the infant's pink skin, there are some where fur coloration
shows this kind of neoteny. Of the eight primate species where adult males and
females differ in coat color, seven are characterized by persistence of the
infant's lighter coloration into adulthood among females. Interestingly, 63% of
these dichromatic species are monogamous, versus only 18% of all primate
species (Blaffer-Hrdy and Hartung, 1979). By retaining a lighter infant-like
color, the female might better cope with the riskier social environment of
monogamy, which makes her more vulnerable to male aggression and to
insufficient provisioning because of longer and more continuous cohabitation.
So why aren’t we
all light-skinned?
If lighter skin is perceived as a female trait, even
to the point of becoming an unconscious input for sex recognition, wouldn’t it
be favored by sexual selection? And since skin color is only partly sex-linked,
wouldn’t selection for lighter-skinned women end up lightening both sexes?
Humans everywhere would have therefore lightened in color right up to the end
point of white skin. So why hasn’t this happened?
There are two reasons: (1) sexual selection of women
hasn’t been equally strong everywhere; and (2) this sexual selection has been
offset to varying degrees by natural selection for darker skin.
First, sexual selection of women is weaker in
sub-Saharan Africa because of the higher polygyny rate: 20-50% of all marriages
in the West and Center and 15-30% in the East and South (Pebley and Mbugua,
1989). With too many men competing for too few women, the pressure of sexual
selection is shifted from women to men, and selection is thereby weakened for
desirable female traits. This may be why high-polygyny populations in
sub-Saharan Africa are visibly darker-skinned than low-polygyny ones (Frost, 2008).
Second, sexual selection for lighter female skin can
be offset by natural selection for darker skin—as a means to protect against UV
and such adverse effects as sunburn, skin cancer, and loss of folic acid. This is especially
true in the tropics. Since UV protection becomes less necessary farther away
from the equator, Aoki (2002) has argued that the sex difference in skin color
should become correspondingly larger, being less constrained by natural
selection. In reality, it’s largest at medium latitudes among populations that
are medium in skin color (Frost, 2007; Madrigal and Kelly, 2006). It’s actually
smaller in white-skinned northern Europeans. This is probably because of a
‘ceiling effect’: in northern Europe, women are less able to become
lighter-skinned than men because both sexes are already close to the
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