5 Things to Know About Manuela in Soho, Opening Soon
New York City will soon be home to the second location of Los Angeles’ Manuela, a sustainability-focused restaurant from Artfarm’s Iwan and Manuela Wirth, the husband-and-wife duo behind Hauser & Wirth, one of the most respected galleries in the art industry.
Manuela New York, opening on Oct. 29, will be filled with custom art activations, serves an eclectic, multicultural menu, and we sat down with U.S. operations director Ben Crofton and wine director Lauren Hoey to find out everything you need to know about the restaurant before you go. P.S. Reservations are now live.
The Resy Rundown
Manuela New York
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Why We Like It
It’s a gallerist-owned spot with a focus on sustainability and seasonality, complete with an in-house composter and a commitment to local producers, where the food is as equally stunning as the art inside it. Manuela comes to New York by way of Los Angeles, with an all-star team of industry vets. -
Essential Dishes
Dishes here change often, but any of the fresh vegetables are worth an order. Plus, go for the biscuits with country ham, the fluke crudo, and the spiced monkfish skewers. -
Must-Order Drinks
The wine list, from wine director Lauren Hoey, has close to 30 by-the-glass options and should command most of your attention.
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Who and What It’s For
Anyone with an interest in art or who has a weakness for a well-designed space, plus those who care about combating food waste and supporting East Coast farms. -
How to Get In
Reservations drop one month in advance. -
Fun Fact
You might see a $1 addition to your bill — rest easy knowing it’s going toward Project Eats, an New York City-based nonprofit that maintains farms on rooftops and in industrial spaces for neighborhoods with a lack of access to fresh fruits and vegetables.
1. This is a sequel, not a remake.
Manuela is making its way to New York by way of Los Angeles, where the original location is housed. Here, things will be more focused on the city’s culture and arts scene, says Crofton, but some things will remain the same.
The original Manuela in Los Angeles is located in the Arts District and has the distinction of being located in an antique warehouse that also has its own courtyard and a garden where they grow much of the produce used in the dishes and cocktails, from herbs and pomegranates to chiles and fresh eggs from the on-site chickens.
You won’t find free-range chickens or an expansive garden on site here in New York — especially in Soho — but, as Crofton notes: “There will be continuity [between the two].”
2. The art world influences are very apparent.
The restaurant, which operates separate from the gallery side of the business, is located just feet away from the group’s Soho art space, a hangar-style room with plenty of light and room.
Despite the separation of the two aspects of the business, you’ll be able to tell that Manuela was built by those with a keen sense for art and design. Inside, they’ve worked with local artists to create unique, custom aspects of the space, and the couple has even lent some of their personal collection to adorn the walls.
“[Art galleries can be] very intimidating, but this space is really quite approachable. They have really interesting art. When you walk into this restaurant, you’re almost transported into a completely other world,” Crofton says.
There’s a bar designed by Mika Rottenberg complete with a chandelier of “mushroom-like” figures that’s made completely out of recycled plastic. The tables were designed by Mary Heilmann, and the walls are adorned with a mural from Lorna Simpson. In the center of the space sits a “home-like” structure made of wood and metal, intended as a callback to the design of Food, a similar artist hub restaurant open in New York City in the 1970s that inspired much of Manuela’s mission.
3. Sustainability is more than just a buzzword here.
The theme running through both locations of Manuela is sustainability. Everything from the food to the art is as locally and sustainably sourced as possible, just as it is in L.A.
However, in New York, they don’t have the ability to grow their own food or keep their own chickens the way they do on the west coast.
“In California, you’re spoiled because there’s an abundance of things like amazing fruit, citrus, and vegetables all year round because of the weather. When we were in New York, I was slightly apprehensive about what to expect in terms of suppliers. We started to pay attention to the Union Square [Greenmarket], and it was really quite refreshing to see how that’s the center point for many restaurants and chefs to have time with people that grow their ingredients,” Crofton said.
Manuela’s team has worked to cultivate relationships with a number of local suppliers, sourcing ingredients like beef from Pennsylvania’s Happy Valley Meats, mushrooms from New York’s Tivoli Mushrooms, seafood from Montauk’s Dock to Dish, and chicken from New York’s Snowdance Farms.
They’re even devoting a precious piece of their real estate to a composter that they’ll use to compost 90% of the restaurant’s food waste.
“I’m quite proud of the composter,” Crofton says. “Real estate in New York is obviously so expensive, and it’s a real commitment to take a room and put a composter in it, when everyone is screaming for more storage or dining space.”
The results from the machine, plus $1 from each check, will go toward New York-based Project Eats, a collective of urban farms in vacant lots or located within high rise buildings in areas without much access to fresh fruits and vegetables.
4. The menu spans from fluke crudo to biscuits with country ham.
Continuing with their theme of sustainability, Manuela’s menu aims to be at least 50% plant-based and vegetarian. In the kitchen is chef Sean Froedtert, formerly of Buvette and Celestine, whom the team was drawn to for his shared values.
“It was his deep passion for ingredients and sourcing. His values were in line with us in terms of caring and about sourcing locally and working with small farmers,” Crofton notes. “When the ingredient is exceptional, you don’t need to do very much to it.”
Dishes will rotate, but they’re opening with dishes that include a Long Island fluke crudo resplendent with nectarines and basil; biscuits with country ham and butter made with Steen’s maple syrup; and roasted oyster mushrooms with black vinegar. For mains, there’s a spiced monkfish skewer with lovage and guindilla peppers, a ribeye from Gibson Family Farm with bone marrow and green peppercorns, and Montauk royal red shrimp with roasted tomato and barbecue spice.
5. Expect to find a new favorite wine to drink by the glass.
Lauren Hoey, formerly of Jupiter, King, and Hawksmoor, oversees the wine program, which will hover between 250 and 300 labels. Cocktails will also be on the menu, with a similar focus on seasonality and ingredients.
“It’ll be an international program, which I think is quite exciting and fun. It allows me to be dynamic with my selections,” Hoey says. “Sustainability is huge, so we’re selecting winemakers who approach things sustainably, whether that’s regenerative farming, organic, or biodynamic wines. That’s ultimately so important for wine and for the wine industry.”
They’ll have an extensive selection of choices by the glass, offering close to 30 options, including an English sparkling wine and a sake that Hoey is particularly excited about.
“We’re starting out with a very ambitious by-the-glass program. It allows me to be a little more seasonal and switch things out,” Hoey adds.
Manuela will be open daily for lunch and dinner.