Goldies London, 10 Kingly Court, Carnaby Street, London W1B 5PW. Small plates £4.50-£11, big plates £14-£22, dessert £7, wines from £29 Here is a profound, if grossly oversimplified observation: the more rudimentary a restaurant’s cooking process becomes, the bigger the bill. At its pinnacle you get to the plutocrat... read full story

"mamma's cooking with chef's hands"

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