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The first time I ever went to Montreal, I was 20 and dumb. Some university friends and I took the bus (ungodly, unholy) from Toronto to attend the Osheaga music festival; we danced to Beach House and Devo and the National.

I remember eating peanut-butter chow mein (it’s a thing, don’t ask me why); dancing at a bar called Blue Dog because it was the hot spot and our lives depended on it; and going to an underground club called Velvet where we heard a rumour that one of our favourite DJs at the time (who will go unnamed because now he’s cringe) was playing an afterparty. This was back when it was extremely cool and fun and ironic to “Ice” someone: as the Millennial Law clearly states, if somebody presents you with a Smirnoff Ice, you have to chug it on the spot. 

We thought it would be genius to sneak one into the bar to “Ice” the DJ (notably, this was before Instagram, so we were truly just doing it for the plot)—but of course, once we got there and saw the bouncers, we chickened out, leaving the bottle behind a nearby fire hydrant and going to enjoy the party anyway.

The next morning, wandering around the city in the heat, we found ourselves back outside the club. One of our friends sauntered up to the fire hydrant, and there it was: the Ice. Which meant, of course, that she’d essentially Iced herself, and had to drink it—which she dutifully did. I recently texted her about it, reminiscing. “It’s a very good story,” she wrote back.

All of this is really just to say that I was long overdue for a trip back to this charming French Canadian city, this time as a true adult who was less interested in getting drunk and was more interested in finding a good sandwich and a luxurious bed. On a recent visit, I found all that and then some.

Where to stay

First thing’s first: a luxurious bed. Could I write love songs to the plush king-size bed at the Four Seasons Hotel Montreal? Yes, yes I could. Opened in 2019, this swish outpost of the Canadian luxury hotel chain takes city accommodations to a new level.

Located right downtown (connected to Holt Renfrew, for those feeling particularly fancy), the Four Seasons Montreal is truly special. The smell of the ground-floor lobby wafts onto the street, letting me know I’ve arrived before Google Maps does. The sixth-floor lobby bar is buzzing when I step out of the elevator, signalling that this is a place for locals as much as visitors.

The room is perfection, with a washroom bigger than my bedroom at home, complete with marble shower and Byredo’s Gypsy Water bath amenities (if you know, you know). Simple touches bring the room to life, like the modern four-poster bed frame and the automatic blackout curtains.

Where to eat and drink

When it comes to food, I’m all about high and low: give me a trendy restaurant with great decor, but also give me the best empanadas of my life at a nondescript cafe (more on that in a moment).

For the former, the Four Seasons Montreal’s onsite restaurant Marcus is a gorgeous room that comes alive at night. For something truly special, diners can opt for the chef’s choice tasting menu in which hotel executive chef Jason Morris will personally prepare a multi-course meal, incorporating a mix of Marcus menu staples and creative, seasonal one-offs. The best part? You get to sit at the chef’s bar overlooking the kitchen—and believe me, it’s mesmerizing to watch the staff as they grill octopus and chop watermelon into perfect squares. My visit includes standout dishes like the Signature Piccadilly (housemade pasta, tender lobster, rich tomato sauce, and chili) and a Potato Latke (a square of fried potato covered with lemon, chives, and a ginormous spoonful of caviar—talk about high-low). Opt for the wine pairings, and say yes to the bread.

For a bespoke post-dinner cocktail, Cloakroom Bar is a short walk from the Four Seasons. This intimate space (it is basically the size of a cloakroom) features no menu. Instead, bartenders ask what you’re looking for—something spicy, herbaceous, whisky-forward, light, knock-you-off-your-feet boozy?—and they whip a drink up on the spot.

Also, of course, Montreal is the land of smoked meat—so if you’re travelling with a few people (or have a few days), why not go on a self-directed crawl? Consider:

• Schwartz’s Deli: Famous for a reason. Great bread, succulent meat. Order takeout to skip the line. Go wild! Get a pickle!
• Snowdon Deli: An old-school diner if there ever was one. A real downhome place serving real people at an excellent price.
• Gerry’s Delicatessen: Comes with fries and coleslaw and a pickle! Now that’s a deal.
• Lester’s Deli: I didn’t go here because it was closed the day I wanted to visit, but my brother says it’s the best, and he wrote a cookbook, which my dad will never let me live down!

Other spots worth visiting:

• Pigeon is a local coffee roaster with multiple outposts and cheeky branding.
• Hinnawi Bros makes a mean BLT sandwich on a fresh housemade bagel of your choice (and you choose Everything, naturally).
• Chez Potier Epicerie Gourmande has one of the best milk chocolate chip cookies of my little life.
• Atwater Market has so many great food options, including satay, pad Thai, and smoked sausages.
• Time Out Market is a foodie paradise (just ignore the fact that you’re in a mall), with standouts including the Portuguese chicken from Campo; the Haitian pork belly, rice, and beans from Paul Toussaint; and the pork and shrimp dumplings from Chanthy Yen (who, fun fact, is now based in Vancouver, running ship at Bacaro).
• La Chilentia might make the best-ever chicken empanada.
• Chef Istanbul is nondescript, but makes a fabulous chicken shawarma on homemade bread.

What to do

With ample sidewalk patios, well-designed spaces, and truly fashionable people, Montreal is a great city to traverse by bike or foot. Old Montreal is particularly beautiful, all old brick buildings and columns. The area gives way to the port, which is home to La Grande Roue de Montreal: a ferris wheel-esque attraction that offers sweeping views of the city (the cars are fully enclosed and air-conditioned, making this a welcome reprieve on a sweltering day). It’s from up here that my partner spots the edges of Circuit Gilles-Villeneuve, the race-car track that’s home to the Formula One Canadian Grand Prix.

Surprising literally everyone in my life, I’ve become an F1 fan (go Leclerc), so it was with a childlike sense of glee that I learned the track is open to the public when the race isn’t in town. We rented some Bixi bikes (like Mobi, but better) and cycled our way to, and then around, the track. This proves to be a highlight not only for me, but for my partner—and he’s not even an F1 fan! Just watch out for the road cyclists, who are extremely intense.

And for something très Canadien, consider a maple syrup tasting. Domaine Des 15 Lots is a family-run maple syrup farm located in the Appalachian Mountains about two and a half hours from Montreal, but one of the founders’ daughters also operates a small shop in the city. Tasters will get to learn about the process of making maple syrup while sampling an array of products—from various syrups, of course, to butters and bricks and excellent baked goods that are made using only maple sugar. Tip: order a coffee to go with your tasting; the bitterness perfectly cuts through the layers of sweet.

How to relax

The pool at the Four Seasons is excellent, with a skylight that dreamily reflects the sun against the water and a steam room and sauna available for everyone. Then there’s the onsite Guerlain Spa, which naturally features all Guerlain products in its treatments; the Energy & Glow facial is remarkably relaxing and leaves my skin looking dewy and fresh. After my treatment, I make my way to the hydratherapy lounge, where wading pools with hot and cold water allow for a chilled-out version of the classic hot-cold plunge, and a centre pathway of stones provides a dose of reflexology. I feel so relaxed that I nearly forget I soon have to pack up and go home—mercifully, with not a Smirnoff Ice in sight.