What You Need to Know to Plant and Grow Hyacinth Flowers

Hyacinths are an old-fashioned springtime favorite with brightly-colored spikes of flowers and an intense fragrance that wafts throughout the garden. They're a low-maintenance must-have for spring displays—but you want to plant the bulbs in the fall to ensure successful blooms. (Here are more spring-flowering bulbs to plant now.)

Hyacinths (Hyacinthus orientalis) flower on a single, upright stalk in bright shades ranging from pure white to deep blue, as well as pink, red, and purple. Their striking flowers bloom for weeks, providing early season food to pollinators, such as bees, making them a great part of any pollinator-focused garden.

Hyacinths are some of the easiest bulbs to grow, lasting for several seasons before declining in flower power.

They’re perennial in USDA Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 and typically will come back for many seasons. (Find your zone here.)

If you live in a warmer zone you can purchase pre-chilled bulbs from some nurseries and grow them as annuals. Typically, you'll plant them in December or January.

The bulbs of hyacinths must be planted in the fall because they require vernalization, or winter chilling, in order to bloom in the spring. For the most pleasing effect, we recommend you plant them in groups, not one bulb here and there.

They also make long-lasting cut flowers, although some people find the fragrance very strong and too many can become cloying in enclosed spaces.

I'm a garden writer with more than 15 years of experience growing houseplants, herbs and edibles, and landscape plantings. My houseplant collection includes more than 60+ plants, while my expansive garden includes new annuals, perennials and shrubs that I trial for performance and reliability. I plant approximately 250 bulbs every fall, including purple hyacinths in honor of my grandmother, who taught me to love gardening.

Hyacinth Basic Info:

• Common Name: Hyacinth
• Botanical Name: Hyacinthus orientalis
• Plant Family: Asparagaceae (formerly Hyacinthaeae)
• Type of Plant: Perennial in USDA zones 4 to 8
• Native Origin: Eurasia, Mediterranean, Turkey
• Sun Exposure: Full sun
• Mature Size: 12 inches tall and wide
• Toxic to pets: Yes

Plant the bulbs pointy-side up from mid to late fall until early winter, after the temperatures have started to drop but before the ground has become frozen. As long as the ground hasn’t frozen, you can still plant bulbs. Place them in groupings for best effect, and plant bulbs about 6 inches deep and 5 inches apart.

Light Needs for Hyacinth

Hyacinths need full sun, which is considered 6 or more hours of direct sunlight per day, although it will tolerate some light afternoon shade.

Water Needs for Hyacinth

Hyacinths typically do fine with normal rainfall, but you can encourage root development by watering immediately after planting.

Soil Needs for Hyacinth

Hyacinths prefer well-draining soils and do not tolerate soggy areas, which will cause the bulbs to rot. They do fine in a range of pH levels.

Temperature Needs for Hyacinth

Hyacinths need a chilling period of at least 40°F for a period of 12 to 14 weeks in order to bloom next spring; this is why they do not do well in warm regions. Some nurseries will pre-chill bulbs so you still can plant them and enjoy their blooms in warm climates, but these plants will not be perennial.

Fertilizer Needs for Hyacinth

Most bulb growers do not recommend adding fertilizer when planting because it can interfere with root growth. If you like, you can use a granular fertilizer in subsequent seasons in early spring.

• ‘Jan Bos’: Old favorite with big, bright, hot-pink flowers tightly packed on the spike.

• ‘Blue Jacket’: Gorgeous blue-purple flowers with white edges, this is a good type for forcing.

• ‘Woodstock’: Violet-red flowers with an intense fragrance.

• ‘Aiolos’: Pure white flower, these are typically early-season bloomers.

• ‘Yellowstone’: Unusual creamy-yellow flowers on large flower heads.

Yes. Hyacinths do not need to be pruned, but it is helpful to deadhead them, or snip off the flower as soon as it fades.

Removing spent flower spikes encourages the plant to send energy to the roots, not to producing seeds. However, it is essential that you leave the foliage intact until it withers and fades on its own. The leaves make food for next year’s plant, so removing them too soon will impact your display next year. (Read more on deadheading flowers here.)

You can divide plants if they become crowded. Wait until the foliage dies back, then dig up the entire plant. Look for tiny offset bulbs growing at the base of the main plant. Gently separate them from the main bulb with your fingers, and plant them elsewhere.

One caveat: These smaller bulbs don't tend to produce great plants. It’s actually much easier to buy and plant new, full-sized bulbs for faster and more satisfying results.

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Hyacinths are some of the easiest bulbs to force. Place pre-chilled bulbs in a special hyacinth vase so that water comes to the bottom of the bulb. Keep the bulb in a dark place until the roots develop, then move it into the light. The bulbs should bloom in about 8 weeks.

Hyacinths are easy to grow and don’t need any special care. In colder climates, a light layer of mulch will protect the bulbs over the winter. The most important factor is to ensure you are planting them in full sun—where they'll get 6 or more hours of direct sunlight per day.

If you plant in a region where your winters are too warm (not enough chilling time), your plants will not bloom.

Hyacinths don’t do great in outdoor containers because they experience temperature spikes and repeated freeze/thaw cycles. This is the worst thing for bulbs, which often will not bloom when planted in pots.

However, if you are determined to try, then keep the pots in a semi-protected area such as an unheated garage, so the bulbs don’t freeze. When you see green shoots, bring the pots outdoors.

Alternatively, you can plant in pots, then sink the entire pot in the ground for winter. When spring comes and they start sprouting, remove the pot and place it in your desired location.

According to the ASPCA, both the bulbs and foliage of hyacinths are toxic to pets when ingested.

If you suspect your vet has eaten any part of the plant, but especially the bulbs, which contain higher levels of toxic alkaloids than the foliage, contact your vet ASAP. This is an emergency.

In addition, be aware that the bulbs may cause skin irritation in some people, so wear gloves when handling and planting.