Nonstick surfaces on cookware and appliances can be a dream to use because of their smooth release and effortless cleanup. I’ve been cooking on them my whole life, and in the more recent years of having this job, testing a more-than-average amount, too — including many nonstick pans, of which I’ve found the absolute best. But nonstick can also be controversial, with some calling it “toxic.” So, what even is nonstick coating?
On the market, you’ll find the material touted many different ways: Sometimes it’s with general descriptors like “high-performance nonstick,” “professional-grade nonstick,” “nontoxic nonstick,” or “FDA-approved nonstick.” And sometimes companies trademark completely new names like Multilayer Duraslide, HexClad, and T-Fal. But at the end of the day, a quick Google search of any specific nonstick skillet or electric machine with a nonstick coating like a waffle maker, rice cooker, air fryer, panini press, or pressure cooker will surface the fine print on brands’ websites and tell you that, with the exception of ceramic surfaces (which I get into lower down), they all contain one ingredient: PTFE.
Okay, but what in the world is PTFE?
PTFE, or polytetrafluoroethylene, is a high-density, heat-resistant synthetic chemical compound that — crucially — has nonstick properties. According to the American Physical Society, PTFE was discovered in the mid-1940s and trademarked as Teflon by Dupont (now Chemours). It was introduced into cookware in the early 1960s. Talk of nonstick’s toxicity — and the negative reputation that still lingers — is mostly thanks to a different chemical compound that was originally used to manufacture Teflon: Perfluorooctanoic acid, or PFOA. In the decades since its advent, PFOA has been shown to be harmful to the human body and environment, and was phased out of U.S. production entirely in 2015.
PTFE itself is still very much around, though. Indeed, it’s one of the thousands of types of chemical compounds under the umbrella of PFAs (a class of manufactured chemicals used in industrial and consumer goods) that are common in many different kinds of products, from windshield wipers and catheters to furniture and water-resistant paint. And while the health and environmental implications of PFAs as a whole are still being studied, the EPA says they end up everywhere — in water, soil, food, and air — and that “most known exposures are relatively low.”
Where does ceramic fit into all this?
If you’re trying to stay away from PTFE altogether, ceramic is another nonstick option. Here, the surface is made from a silica- or sand-based coating called sol-gel (or solution-gel) that is treated to provide a similar easy-release effect. That said, it’s far less common to see it used in kitchen appliances (and it’s not something any expert I spoke to for the pieces linked above prioritizes). If it’s truly important to you, you can search specifically for that feature — I just can’t vouch that they’ll work as well as the ones I and many pros use in our kitchens. Ceramic nonstick skillets, on the other hand, are readily available if you’re dedicated to staying away from acronyms — and many experts do love them.
But which is the non-stickiest?
The caveat, no matter the category of cookware, is that ceramic isn’t as nonstick and loses the nonstick quality it does have faster than PTFE. I’ve found this to be true in my own extensive testing, but it’s not just me: You’ll find the same claim everywhere from other sites similar to ours to open community boards like Reddit. As such, it’s not my personal preference. I stick with pans and machines from brands I trust because the more cheaply made the faster they’re likely to wear down. And — per the advice of every professional cook I’ve interviewed over the years — I’m mindful about the way I use and clean them. I only touch silicone or wood utensils to the surfaces (no stainless steel). I avoid supremely high heat (most brands tell you the exact maximum temperature your coating can handle, and though it’s often very high, I do my best to regulate and turn to other skillets when I really want to blast something). I wash them by hand with a non-abrasive sponge. And above all, I keep a close eye. Nonstick — no matter how high-quality — is simply not built to last in the same way cast iron or stainless steel is. Once the surface starts to look funky, it’s time to replace.
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