How to Strengthen Nails

Strong fingernails don’t start in the supplement aisle. Even though for the better part of two decades, biotin, a common name for vitamin B7, was an incredibly popular nail-growth aid, in 2017, the FDA issued a statement that underscored the lack of scientific evidence to this end. There is no “miracle supplement” to strengthen our nails, emphasized board-certified dermatologist Dr. Dana Stern, who specializes in nail health. Mostly, the best way to strengthen our nails is to stop doing the things that many of us unwittingly do to weaken them.

Overexposure to water, as well as any number of the routine steps in your local salon manicure, are among the culprits that compromise the bonds between the nail’s tiny cells, or oncocytes. By simply stopping the bad habits, it’s possible to see increased strength in about three months, which is the typical duration of the fingernail-regrowth cycle. Here, we’ll go through the bad nail habits to break, along with one good one you can start for stronger nails.

Aside from washing your hands, you should try to avoid too much exposure to water. Why? Because nails are “1,000 times more absorptive of water than the skin,” says Stern. “They are essentially like sponges.” You’ve probably noticed how your nails become soft after taking a bath: When water is absorbed by the nail’s cells (or oncocytes), “it puts a strain on the bonds between the cells,” explains Stern, “and this can lead to weakness, peeling, and breakage.” So, if you want to work toward stronger cells, you’re going to need to take fewer baths. And for the water that’s less easy to avoid — like in doing the dishes — throw on a pair of rubber gloves, which will help protect nails from those harsh cleaning chemicals, too.

Lots of nail products, especially nail-polish removers, are formulated with abrasive solvents. “Acetone is extremely harsh to nails and causes weakening of the keratin bonds and dehydration to the nail, cuticle, and surrounding skin,” Stern says. In place of acetone, she suggests looking for products that have conditioning formulas, like propylene carbonate, which she says is “a much milder solvent for polish removal. Nails will finish hydrated and nourished, not stripped and dehydrated like with most removers.” If you’re looking for specific recommendations, Stern’s product line includes a Hydrating Non-Acetone Polish Remover that aims to nourish the nails and cuticles with the help of grapefruit-peel oil and rosemary-leaf extract. Another highly reviewed acetone-free option is Dermelect’s Extracts 3-in-1 Soy Nail Polish Remover, which is nontoxic, vegan, and free of fragrance.

Wood can give us splinters — and traditional cardboard emery boards (a.k.a. nail files) are no exception. “These files create microscopic tears in the nail that lead to splits, peeling, and breakage as well as premature polish chipping,” says Stern. A safer alternative is a glass nail file (Stern offers one in her product line too). And if you don’t have a glass file on hand, clippers or even nail scissors are preferable to emery boards.

The next time you’re in the salon, politely decline to have your cuticles trimmed. Cuticles act as the nail’s “natural protective seal,” according to Stern. “It’s like the grout in your shower between your tiles — it keeps water, moisture, and organisms out of the nail unit.”

According to this study published by the National Library of Medicine, which associates frequency of professional manicures to the likelihood of having brittle nails, taking salon breaks is very important. Too much use of gel and acrylics will lead to nail damage, like dehydrated nails, and even the removal of nail cells. “A risk of acrylics and gels is that in the process of removal, you may inadvertently remove some of the superficial layers of nail cells causing a keratin granulation,” Stern explains. And if you’re noticing your nails look and feel extra-brittle, that’s likely due to prolonged acetone soaks, which Stern says “can lead to considerable dehydration to the nail, surrounding cuticle, and nail fold, leading to brittleness, dry cuticles, and hangnails.”

Across the board, derms seem to love Aquaphor for all manner of skin concerns. And it turns out it’s also especially effective for those with brittle nails. “Aquaphor, Aquaphor, Aquaphor!” was the No. 1 nail-strengthening recommendation from Dr. Anne Chapas of Union Square Dermatology: “I put it on my nails every night because a lot of nail weakness stems from dryness.” That’s because some ingredients in the formula, like panthenol and glycerin, work together to moisturize and hydrate the nails.

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