It wasn’t until I became a beauty writer that I learned sunscreen doesn’t have to be chalky and goopy. I was reminded of that fact when I started to see so much talk this summer about how bad American sunscreens are (especially as compared to those available to our European and Asian friends). But I’ve found that there are plenty of lightweight, pleasant formulas that don’t leave a white cast and still give you the protection you need. The reason it feels like there’s not is they’re a little harder to find.
There are two main issues with sunscreens here. First, formulas that are available in America get their sun-protecting power from a relatively short list of approved filters. Here, sunscreens are treated like over-the-counter drugs, so the standards for testing and approval are high. This tough approval process means there’s little advancement in the active ingredients that actually block UV rays. The last time the U.S. approved a new sunscreen filter was in 1999, so we’re working with fewer filters compared to international brands.
Second is that it’s hard to tell how well our limited filters are protecting us from UVA rays (the ones that penetrate deeper and can cause photoaging). Because we don’t have a reliable labeling system for UVA protection in the U.S., we don’t always know how they stack up to Europe and Asia. The cosmetic chemists I spoke to say they still protect us well, but we only know how they compare to Europe and Asia when the companies voluntarily use the PA-UVA measurement system. But the good news is to keep up with the international market, more American-made brands are doing this. The Japanese PA rating system measures a product’s ability to block UVA rays, and studies show that sunscreens with PA+++ and PA++++ protect the best against sun damage. To find actually good American sunscreens, I sought out chemical formulas with the highest PA rating (PA++++) that guarantee protection. I also included a couple mineral sunscreens. Mineral sunscreens block both UVA and UVB rays handily because they form a physical barrier over your skin. So for these, I was looking for formulas that are lightweight and don’t leave a white cast. The few I’ve included here have been tested by me and other editors I trust.
This chemical sunscreen is SPF 50 and the highest PA rating of PA++++. As for texture, cosmetic chemist Julian Sass says it’s extremely lightweight. “If you’ve tried Supergoop’s Unseen Sunscreen before, this has that kind of silicone base, but it feels a lot nicer. It doesn’t feel nearly as slippery,” he says. It’s also water-resistant for up to 80 minutes.
Naturium also carries a SPF 50 and PA++++ sunscreen recommended by Sass. It has a runnier texture compared to Allies of Skin, but it’s still lightweight and nongreasy. You’ll have to reapply this more if you’re sweating or swimming (it’s only water-resistant for up to 40 minutes), but it’s almost half the price of the above.
All of Murad’s sunscreens use the PA rating system. This one’s the least expensive while still offering high SPF and PA++++. I’ve tried it myself and really enjoyed it. The formula has that slippery silicone feel and is a little heavier than other sunscreens I’ve used, but it doesn’t make my skin look oily.
“I still feel that the gold standard in sunscreen is a mineral- or physical-based sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide,” says cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Blair Murphy-Rose. “In addition to protecting skin from sunburn and skin cancer, physical sunscreens provide the best protection against melasma, rosacea, and other sun-induced skin conditions.” She likes EltaMD’s zinc-oxide sunscreens and calls out the noncomedogenic UV Clear options for acne-prone skin.
Dr. Murphy-Rose’s daily go-to is SkinCeuticals’s sunscreen that uses both zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. “It’s an elegant formulation that is very protective yet feels so light on the skin,” she says.
Barcelona-based company Isdin also makes an elegant tinted mineral sunscreen that beauty editor Crystal Martin recommends. She can attest to its wearability: It sinks in nicely and doesn’t leave a white cast.
This RMS one was recently recommended by Strategist contributor Mbiye Kasonga for ticking all the boxes: It’s formulated with zinc oxide, doesn’t leave a white cast, and leaves a glow-y finish. (And, if you’re looking for more mineral sunscreens, we have an entire round up here.)
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