Let’s get one thing out of the way first: there’s no such thing as “Indian food” – at least, not really. The subcontinent is vast and varied – the seventh largest nation in the world by land mass and the largest by population – with 1.4 billion residents, many of them discerning foodies with strikingly divergent tastes.
Visit India’s snowy, northern-most regions bordering the Himalayas, and you’ll find hearty noodle soups and pillowy steamed dumplings; go to the humid southern-most tip and you can feast on cylindrical rice cakes, dosas and banana fritters; trek to the country’s rainy eastern edges, where I was born, and you’ll dive into bowls of mild, mustard-infused fish and syrupy, cottage cheese-based desserts.
There’s also the matter of other colonial culinary influences, aside from that of the British: just an hour north of my hometown of Kolkata is Chandannagar, once a French settlement where you’ll find exceptional baked goods; while Goa is, of course, known for its Portuguese-inspired cuisine.
This eclectic reality is a far cry from the familiar staples found in Brick Lane curry houses, though it has to be said that London – home to over half a million British Indians – has massively stepped up its game over the past decade or so, with a host of restaurants which specialise in dishes from particular cities and states, and execute them to perfection.
Below, find the Vogue guide to the best Indian restaurants in London right now.
Jikoni
A firm Vogue favourite, this self-titled “no borders kitchen” from Nairobi-born British Indian chef Ravinder Bhogal serves up some truly mouthwatering dishes in tranquil Marylebone: the prawn toast Scotch egg with banana ketchup and pickled cucumbers is a non-negotiable must order, as are the festive charred Brussels sprouts (with bonito, chestnuts and hot and sour dressing – the much-maligned vegetable has never tasted so good), the crisp kale chaat with yoghurt and tamarind chutney, the wild mushrooms on toast drenched in curry hollandaise, and the roasted hake and Shetland mussels moilee. End with the banana cake with miso butterscotch and Ovaltine kulfi, obviously, and sip a pomegranate negroni as you admire the general splendour of the room: warm pendant lights, cosy seating nooks, colourful embroidered cushions and stunning printed textiles (tablecloths, napkins, wall hangings) that always have me mentally redecorating my flat. It’s a classic for a reason.
The Vogue tip: Visit on weekend mornings for a delightfully unconventional brunch: think the all-day staples alongside Goan sausage rolls, buckwheat dosas and a soothing khichdi with devilled cashew nuts, carrot achaar and papad.
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Dishoom
It’s difficult for me to have an unbiased view of Dishoom, the London institution – now with branches in Battersea and Canary Wharf as well as Carnaby Street, Covent Garden, Kensington, King’s Cross and Shoreditch, not to mention Birmingham, Manchester and Edinburgh – which has operated as something of a living room for me over the past decade. It’s been the site of family reunions, dates, birthdays, goodbye dinners, monthly catch-ups with friends and more languorous solo meals than I can remember, and there’s something deeply comforting about its low-lit, dark wood interiors (the ceiling fans, the Art Deco-style bars, the faded family photos on the walls, the vintage adverts in the loos), the soundtrack of ’60s and ’70s Bollywood hits, the relaxed and never rushed service, the still reasonable prices, the fragrant house chai that’s served in the long queues, and the reliably excellent menu, inspired by the artfully crumbling Irani cafés of old Mumbai. Highlights include the moreish okra fries, the succulent murgh malai, the fiery chilli chicken, the gunpowder potatoes, the impossibly rich, velvety black daal and the chicken berry biriyani, as well as the bun maska, and bacon and egg naan roll at brunch. Naysayers will complain about waiting times (you can actually book for larger groups, or just turn up at 11.45am and you’re sure to get a lunchtime table) and label the restaurant as “not authentic” (to which I’d say: you clearly haven’t been to the likes of Britannia & Co, Yazdani Restaurant & Bakery and Kyani & Co), but trust me – it’s always a good idea.
The Vogue tip: The delectable salli boti, a Parsi classic comprised of tender lamb, thin, crunchy crisps and a buttered roomali roti, is currently the special at the Canary Wharf brunch, and well worth the journey east. Look out, too, for a string of newly added dishes which are destined to become stalwarts, chief among them the crispy, flaky Fish Amritsari.
Multiple locations
Jamavar
For exemplary service (courtesy of restaurant manager Deepak Dubey), exquisitely flavoured and presented dishes (from Michelin-starred culinary director and executive chef Surender Mohan) and a real sense of occasion, snag a table at this sumptuous, gilded Mount Street gem. Co-founded by renowned restaurateurs Dinesh and Samyukta Nair, it offers decadent and sometimes experimental takes on the Mughlai cuisine once found in the royal kitchens of northern India: beef haleem, murgh nihari, a dum tarkari biriyani and a rhubarb chuski falooda that is to die for. It also happens to be something of a celebrity hot spot, meaning you could easily bump into everyone from Sonam Kapoor to Zendaya and Tom Holland.
The Vogue tip: Ahead of Alphonso mango season in the spring, book yourself into the incredible six-course, mango-focused tasting menu: mango lassis followed by an aloo tikki with dried mango, perhaps, or scallops with mango chilli salsa, spiced prawns with mango pachadi and a delicious fish dish with fenugreek, raw mango and coconut milk. Divine.
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The Tamil Crown, The Tamil Prince and Tamila
A set of laidback and playful South Indian-inspired restaurants – two in Islington and the newest, Tamila, in Clapham – this trio should be your go-to for generously stuffed dosas, chilli-dusted idlis, flaky rotis, prawn moilee and whole grilled sea bream. Of the three, the Tamil Prince is the best venue for a leisurely breakfast (order the poori masala, the savoury, pancake-style uttapam, and the medhu vadai, soft fried doughnuts with coconut chutney and sambar, alongside a masala tea); The Tamil Crown the place to head for an indulgent mid afternoon Sunday roast (opt for the gliding-off-the-bone lamb shank, with potato and peas masala, deep-fried cauliflower, coconut stir-fried cabbage and plantains); and Tamila a buzzy evening hangout, where you can tuck into crispy onion bhajis, chicken lollipops and the hulking mutton curry dosa.
The Vogue tip: Whichever restaurant you choose, always kick off proceedings with the irresistible, spicy gunpowder margarita.
Multiple locations
Kricket
Between the bhel puri with raw mango and the addictive samphire pakoras with tamarind chutney – and, of course, not forgetting the Jerusalem artichoke samosas, Goan sausage croquettes, Keralan Fried Chicken, Hyderabadi aubergine, the grilled squash with paneer, hazelnuts and puffed wild rice, the Mangalorean chicken gassi, and Chettinad duck leg – it’s basically impossible to go wrong at Kricket, the distinctly modern, vaguely South Indian-inflected chain which now has outposts in Soho, White City, Brixton and Canary Wharf. Even more mouthwatering than the endlessly creative à la carte menu, however, is the recently introduced Sunday lunch, currently available at the latter two locations. Start with a light-as-air tomato rasam pani puri, before slicing into a half charcoal grilled tandoori chicken on a bed of rich, musallam sauce, with a berry pulao, chicken seekh kebabs, laccha parathas and pink fir potatoes, polished off with an indulgent bread and butter pudding with pear and pistachios – a verified knockout. The industrial interiors – clean lines, exposed concrete, cherry red accents – only add to the allure.
The Vogue tip: If you’re visiting the Soho or Canary Wharf branches, drop by Kricket’s adjacent cocktail bar, Soma, for a tipple first – both drinking dens are moodily lit, deeply sexy and feel like a well-kept secret, with inventive, ever-changing menus which ensure they remain among the best cocktail bars in London. Order the Chaat (Tapatio Blanco, Mezcal Verde, chaat masala, gooseberry, kumquat), the Mango (Toki whisky, green mango, honey, Ancho Reyes Verde) or the Carrot (vodka, charred carrot, dill, caraway vermouth).
Multiple locations
Trishna
Another Marylebone hideaway with a well earned Michelin star, this lavish fine dining concept focuses on creating gorgeous plates which reimagine zingy flavours from India’s lush south coast. The nandu varuval, a delicately spiced, fried soft shell crab with a smear of tomato chutney, is exceptional, as are the succulent mustard prawns, and the coconut and curry leaf scallops, all designed to be shared at your candlelit table in the wonderfully low-key dining room, with its exposed brickwork, antique mirrors and polished dark wood. If you’re in the mood for more, though, try the sublime six-course tasting menu, featuring Hariyali bream, a Goan lobster cafreal and the juiciest tandoori lamb chops you’ll ever eat.
The Vogue tip: With so many stunning dishes competing for your attention, you could easily skip dessert – but do so at your peril. From the payesh with saffron rasmalai to the chocolate chikki with pistachio, and the fig and cardamom kheer to the tandoori charred pineapple and coconut, they’re like works of art – and utterly delicious to boot.
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Smoke & Lime
Not a restaurant but rather a gloriously intimate supper club, British Indian chef Sohini Banerjee’s at-home feasts nevertheless deserve a spot on this list for celebrating regional delicacies that are often overlooked in the capital (those which originate from Kolkata and the northeastern state of West Bengal) as well as for its seasonal and zero waste approach. The result is a hearty serving of traditional favourites with unexpected twists: a papri chaat with homemade shortcrust pastry, say, or Schezwan prawns with Indo Chinese sambal, and chicken legs and offal with fennel, green chilli and Kampot pepper. Expect surprise additions as well as a brief personal introduction to each dish, weaving together Sohini’s childhood memories with the item’s significance in Bengali cooking. You’ll also learn about her culture from the thoughtful decor of her Camberwell flat – the artwork, printed fabrics and miniature sculptures reminded me a lot of my own childhood home, as did the gentle soundtrack of ’70s Bengali classics – and the other guests at your convivial shared table, which will inevitably include a smattering of homesick Bengalis. It’s proof that in London, as in Kolkata, the best food is always eaten in people’s homes.
The Vogue tip: If your meal inspires a culinary pilgrimage to Kolkata (and it really should), be sure to ask Sohini for her comprehensive guide to the city’s best street food stalls.
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