The West Coast's Coolest Beach Town Is Two Hours South of California
Go to Ensenada for the whale watching, stay for the fish tacos.
California has it all: Vibrant culture, restaurant scenes up and down the coast, tacos, and sunny weather nearly year-round which is perfect for enjoying the outdoors. And that outdoors includes miles and miles of beaches with the chances to spot marine wildlife from whales, dolphins, and sea lions along the Pacific Coast throughout the year.
But what if we told you that you can enjoy similar activities and the same sun-kissed coast, without the California price point? All you need to do is cross the US–Mexico border and drive to Ensenada, a Pacific port famous for its surfing beaches, mouthwatering fish tacos, and La Bufadora, the tallest geyser in North America on the Punta Banda Peninsula.
While prices around the marina are geared toward cruise ship passengers, you can find plenty of budget-friendly options away from the tourist zone. Many vendors around the cruise port speak English, which is within walking distance of tour agencies, restaurants, and street vendors. So, if you're looking for sun, fun, and tacos, these are our recommendations for the best things to do in Ensenada.
Travel Time
2 hours from San Diego
4 hours, 10 minutes from Los Angeles
If You Only Do One Thing: Go Whale Watching
Whale watching season in Ensenada goes from mid-December through early April when thousands of gray whales migrate over 10,000 miles from Alaska to Baja California to mate and give birth. However, the exact start dates fluctuate, and it’s not uncommon for a whale watching season to begin later, toward the end of December.
There are several whale watching tours in Ensenada, including MexGeo Tours and Todos Santos Adventures, but I decided to opt for Sergio’s Whale Watching when I visited just before Christmas. Throughout the ride, local tour guides on board shared fascinating facts about the whales’ journey and taught us how to spot whales from a distance. Seeing a mother whale with her newborn calf near your boat is a humbling experience that leaves you with a deeper appreciation of marine wildlife.
Whale watching tours depart daily from Ensenada’s waterfront and cost $30–$40 per person. While Ensenada has mild, coastal climate with plenty of sunshine, winter is the coldest season when temperatures range from low 50s to mid-60s during the day and can dip into low 40s at night, so be sure to bring layers, a warm hat, and sunglasses for the most comfortable experience. Plus, if you’re prone to seasickness, it’s wise to take some medicine beforehand as the boat rocks side to side when you cruise away from the Ensenada coast.
Fill the Weekend With
Surfing: Ensenada and surrounding areas boast wide sandy beaches. They are not particularly known for swimming because of chilly water temps and strong currents, but some of them have excellent surfing conditions. From Playa Tres Emes north of town to beginner-friendly Las Gaviotas, and aptly named the Killers because of its monster waves, there are plenty of places to cool off in Ensenada.
Geyser Watching: La Bufadora, the tallest geyser in North America and a famous natural attraction 40 minutes from Ensenada, is a big part of the local lore. According to legend, a baby whale got separated from its mother and lost in the Pacific, and was stuck in the cave for days. The calf sought help by blowing water, but no one came to rescue, and he eventually turned into a rock. The geyser, also known as “La Bufa,” is said to be the grown whale that is still crying for help. The natural phenomenon can be seen during the high tide, when big waves crash inside the cavern. As the waves retreat, the air trapped inside the cave pushes the remaining water to the top, resulting in an impressive geyser.
Cultural Activities: Don’t miss the Ensenada Museum of History where you can learn about the key dates from Baja California history or El Parque de la Bandera, which is home to a 300-foot tall Mexican flag. The park is adjacent to Ensenada's Malecón and is a popular place for social gatherings, concerts, and local vendors, who sell everything from typical Mexican snacks to souvenirs and clothing.
Where to Eat and Drink
Breakfast: Head over to Casa Marcelo for delicious, classic dishes like Chilaquiles, Huevos Cazuela, and omelets with beans and queso. You can also dive straight in and grab Baja fish tacos from taquerias like Tacos Fénix and Makuko’s, where you can sample the famous staple for $1 a piece.
Dinner: Latitud 32 is one of the best restaurants in Ensenada that serves a fusion of Mexican and contemporary dishes. La Guerrerense is a popular street food spot that boasts some of the best seafood in town and their tostadas come with many different sauces.
If you want to treat yourself, check out El Restaurante en Punta Morro, where you can enjoy a wonderful culinary experience while watching the ocean waves crash against the rocks right under your table. It’s one of the most popular places in Ensenada to celebrate a special occasion and enjoy a fine dining experience.
Drinks: Baja California boasts a burgeoning craft beer scene with the most breweries of any state in Mexico. Wendlandt is one of the biggest craft breweries in Mexico, and Agua Mala is a popular place with a good social atmosphere and plenty of options for sampling local brew.
Hotels in Ensenada
Ensenada has plenty of hotels in the downtown area within walking distance from the waterfront and many restaurants.
Budget: Capital O Rose Hotel is an excellent budget option that is great if you have limited funds. They serve traditional Mexican breakfast free of charge and also have free onsite parking.
Splurge: If you are looking to splurge, you can stay at an oceanfront property like Estero Beach Resort, Corona Hotel and Spa, or Hotel Coral Y Marina, where you can enjoy spa services, on-site restaurants and swimming pools.
Our Pick: Punta Morro is the best-kept secret of Ensenada. This secluded spot away from downtown Ensenada makes a perfect stay for those travelers who are looking to relax and enjoy friendly service, outstanding food, and wonderful amenities. Although it’s more expensive than other hotels in Ensenada, the experience you get will be worth every peso you spend.