Let’s All Stop Underestimating Iowa

Iowa, in many ways, typifies the idea of “flyover country.” Without a metropolis like Chicago, or a resident “Midwest Princess” to sing its praises, it’s a state that mostly gets summarized by corn, caucuses, and breaded pork tenderloin. But as we’ve learned time and again: never underestimate the subtle allure of flyover country.

As Travel Iowa cleverly riffs, this is a state you want to “fly through, not over.” That’s because, if there’s one thing this on-the-nose Midwestern state excels at, it’s debunking stereotypes. Across its vast plains and prairies, from lake to shining lake, and from the gilded sheen of the state capitol to the man-made mounds of the Upper Mississippi River Valley, The Hawkeye State is nothing if not surprising. Long overlooked as topographically challenged monotony, marked by too-wide open spaces and periodic political pandering, this “fly through” country requires more of a stopover to really savor its modest immensity.

Indoors and out, Iowa is a place that inspires pause. It’s the state parks and national monuments you never expected to be stirred by. It’s the convivial ritualism of a football tailgate, or the serene majesty of amber waves of grain. It’s the cities large and small, in an elite class of UNESCO recognition. It’s the endless opportunities here, for lifers and transplants alike, to imprint themselves on a veritable blank-canvas of a state, where the cost of living pales compared to the coasts, and where a growing population and shifting demographics are evolving Iowa into an enticing, inclusive community for all.

Like anyplace, some stereotypes are earned and even embraced. Yes, Iowans have a fondness for slathering things in cheese, and/or serving foods on sticks that don’t really make sense on sticks. And yes, butter sculpting is very much a thriving artform around these parts. Rather than hide from its tropes, though, Iowa leans into them and proudly owns it as the singular kind of Americana it is—all apart of the cultural patchwork, from Des Moines to Dubuque, that makes Iowa the kind of wishful utopia Field of Dreams led us to yearn for.

So the next time you’re considering flying over Iowa, or only paying attention to it during an election cycle, take the time for an extended layover. You might be surprised by what you find.

Hot tip: Buy real estate in Des Moines yesterday. What was once a city lacking housing, retail, and straight-up vitality is now topping lists of the country’s best places to live. The East Village—a hotbed of counterculture growing along the edges of the gold-domed capitol—is the ultimate harbinger of the city’s next era: Grab a “Very Mindful, Very Des Moines” T-shirt at RAYGUN, chow down on baba ganoush at Open Sesame, sit on the floor at Gong Fu Tea, and top it all off with a full-blown tasting menu at Lucca.

Closer to downtown and housed in a historic Art Deco fire station, MALO is a rising star in Des Moines’ Pan-Latin game, serving up all-day eats like Avocado Tostadas, Pork Belly Pupusas, and blackened Mahi Mahi Tortas. To impress your in-laws, snag a table at the Hotel Fort Des Moines, a downtown landmark that has hosted the likes of Johnny Cash and Elvis, and enjoy dinner at Proudfoot & Bird, where Iberico Rabbit Meatballs and Kung Pao Octopus are but a taste. For a strong cocktail, sidle up to Blazing Saddle, a longstanding gay bar (since 1983!) known for its trivia nights, nightly happy hours, and drag shows.

Outdoors, take a quick two-mile jog around Gray’s Lake, just south of downtown, and be sure to walk the Sherman Hill neighborhood—Des Moines’ oldest—come fall for a tree-lined, gold-hued tour of Victorian-era wealth. Hit up the 25-mile High Trestle Trail (technically starting in Ankeny) for your Instagram delight. You’ll know the shot everyone talks about when you see it.

In case you thought Iowa was as flat as a breaded pork tenderloin, know that it’s not even among the 10 flattest states in the nation—and, next to Florida, it’s downright mountainous. Case in point: a quick stint in the Southwestern part of Iowa, home to the Loess Hills region, reveals a realm of unexpected wonder and natural beauty. Rolling formations made from wind-swept loess soil, this is the only place in the Western hemisphere where such landforms exist, ripe for exploration on any number of hiking trails, biking routes, or scenic byways. The namesake Loess Hills National Scenic Byway traverses Iowa’s western border, weaving through hilly terrain that extends 15-miles wide and 200-miles long.

For a closer look, the 1,268-acre Hitchcock Nature Center protects the state’s most pristine prairie, by offering low-impact recreation activities like hiking, star-gazing, birding, and sledding. If that wasn’t enough, Loess Hills State Forest clocks in at a cool 11,484 acres, with more than 60 miles worth of hiking trails, a variety of terrains, and Preparation Canyon State Park.

The urban and cultural hub of the region, Council Bluffs teems with history all its own. Here, overlooking the Missouri River, and Omaha on the other side, you’ll find a town once trod by Lewis and Clark, and an early epicenter of railroad innovation. The Union Pacific Railroad Museum, housed in a Beaux Arts-style building that formerly contained a Carnegie library, traces the construction of the Transcontinental Railroad, the development of rail travel across the country, and President Lincoln’s role in signing the Pacific Railway Act.

Later, discover a more modern side of Council Bluffs with a pint of Councils’ Kolsch at Full Fledged Brewing Company, a glass of wine (and a cheese board) at Cellar 19 Wine & Deli, and some so-very-Iowa comfort foods—think cheese balls and breaded pork tenderloin sandwiches—at The Porch.

Iowa may not have mountains, but it’s got mounds. And they’re way mightier than you might assume. Perched along the upper Mississippi River, a stone’s throw from Wisconsin, Effigy Mounds National Monument is one of only a couple of National Park Service sites in Iowa, designated by President Truman in 1949 to protect and preserve the rich Native American history of the man-made landforms.

Unlike Loess Hills, formed by wind, these were made by hand. Built as far back as 450 BC, the national monument contains some 200 mounds in a lush, fertile area of the river valley—a natural draw for the 20 Indigenous tribes that first called this place home. For centuries, the Effigy Moundbuilders, as they are called, crafted conical mounds as sacred burial grounds, as well as rectangular mounds for ceremonial purposes. There are even animal-shaped mounds, most notably bear and bird, that are as mysterious as they are majestic. Visitors to the national monument have their pick of hiking trail, or can embark on a guided tour of the mounds with a park ranger.

From mounds to caves, Maquoketa Caves isn’t false advertising for a fancy hole in a cornfield. This region of Iowa—made up of limestone bluffs, forested ridges, deep river valleys, and, in Maquoketa’s case, caves—is known as the Driftless Area. It was spared glaciation 12,000 years ago, left to be a reminder of what the Midwest once was prior to being steam-rolled by ice.

Over a dozen caves are linked by a thorough trail system, some requiring long, grand stairways and some vast, open amphitheaters to practice your best echo. You can get inside most of them—artifacts indicate Indigenous tribes certainly did—though they’re closed in winter to protect the native bat population.

Iowa’s oldest city is arguably its most scenic, whether you’re catching a glance of the red-brick downtown from Highway 61—cathedral spires, giant old-school warehouses, and one gold dome will steal your eyes from the road—or hiking the hills around Pikes Peak (not that Pikes Peak; this Pikes Peak). Dubuque sits right on the Mississippi, a port city with an industrial soul napping in the wooded bluffs of Ol’ Man River.

The Heritage Trail, a wooded 26-mile trail for walkers and bikers, runs from Dubuque, past old mining and mill towns, and all the way to Dyersville, home of that Costner masterpiece, Field of Dreams. After sweating it out on two feet or two wheels, head to Brazen Open Kitchen + Bar or Oolong Asian Cuisine for Spicy Miso Bucatini and Curry French Fries, respectively. When it’s time, hit up the shops on 4th Street or book it south to nearby Codfish Hollow Barnstormers—yep, it’s a barn—for whatever indie artist from around the country is vibrating the rafters that night.

Six glacier-carved lakes form a watery chain over northwestern Iowa, sort of like Minnesota’s cup spilled over. West Okoboji Lake—connected to its sister, East Okoboji—is late-night party central (Iowans love a good lake party); Big Spirit Lake, the state’s biggest, is better for your quieter sunsets and afternoon fishing expeditions.

Smushed between East and West Okoboji Lakes, Arnold’s Park is the area’s heartbeat—it’s technically a town, but it’s better known for its 100-year-old theme park. You’ll find boat rentals and fishing charters here, but more importantly, you’ll find The Nutty Bar Stand. The classic old-school ice cream joint is over 70 years old, and the recipe’s never once changed (much like the vast majority of Arnold’s Park). Grab a namesake Nutty Bar, vanilla ice cream on a stick with chocolate and peanuts, lest ye want to go home sans the true Arnold’s Park experience.

For something a bit more updated, hit up West O Beer for their award-winning CoCo Stout and a game of giant Jenga. Iowans may not be the stereotypical “Iowa Nice” you hear about, but they’ll gladly knock over a few blocks (and brews) with you. Just try not to say, “Wow, Iowa isn’t actually terrible, huh?”

Iowa City was designated one of UNESCO’s first World Cities of Literature back in 2008. The Iowa Writers’ Workshop—one of the most well-known writing programs in the country—has seen the likes of John Irving, Flannery O’Connor, Robert Frost, and Kurt Vonnegut. Most of us won’t get close to the workshop (save a public reading or two), but we can soak in the city’s creative vibes any day of the week.

Start off on the Literary Walk downtown—think two-story brick coffee shops, fancy salad joints, lazy pedestrian streets, the whole Big-10 package—following the poetry engraved in the blocks of cement. Scoot into Prairie Lights, a bookshop that has both cats and (supposedly) ghosts. If time allots, check out the public gallery at the University of Iowa Center for the Book and scout out the Center for Afrofuturist Studies at Public Space One. After all that book worm-ing, make time for Chicken Liver Toast and Duck Egg Tagliatelle at The Webster, and a cold Caramel Apple hard cider at Wilson’s Ciderhouse.

Iowa has its pockets of diversity, but let's be real: Iowa is pretty damn white. It's one of the preconceived notions of the state that actually holds up. But even that's changing, albeit slowly. Those pockets of diversity often butt up against more gentrified, affluent towns, a likely residual effect of the old sundown-town mentality. Those "pockets" of diversity still exist, largely because the strong grip of history that never truly loosens. But today, there's more fluidity between neighboring towns creating something much more exciting, such as with Cedar Falls and Waterloo, both of which are worth a visit, but together make for a true snapshot of modern Iowa.

Cedar Falls is very much a Midwest college town: relatively homogenous, gentrified, and affluent. If It’s a Wonderful Life got a modern remake, Cedar Falls might play the part of Bedford Falls. Walk down the 20th-century Main Street and note homey coffee shop/local institution Cup of Joe; Chocolaterie Stam, which sells chocolates straight from Belgium; Bigfoot Bettys, for its Sasquatch-sized pork tenderloins; and Bar Winslow, slinging Prohibition-inspired cocktails in the historic Black Hawk Hotel. You’ll eventually wind up on the banks of the Cedar River, where trails take you out into the woodlands and where the bluebells rage come fall.

A short drive away is Waterloo, a more immigrant- and art-focused community that offers up a welcome dose of diversity and underdog spirit that's essentially the opposite of what most people think of when they think "Iowa." Don’t miss SingleSpeed Brewing Co., a game-changing brewery shilling sours and other European-inspired beers in an old Wonderbread factory. Check out Rodney’s Kitchen for Rodney’s very own brisket or gumbo, then ogle at gallery/restaurant/lounge Capella Magna’s ceiling, a legitimate spray-painted masterpiece that replicates the Sistine Chapel (created by street artist Paco Rosic). Finally, end on a high note with a round of karaoke and darts at Iron Horse Saloon.

Outdoors, the “Cedar Valley” takes biking pretty seriously. For a beer-to-beer ride, bike the trails between Waterloo’s SingleSpeed and Cedar Falls’ SingleSpeed—it’s 7.5 miles between the two breweries, and a great way to get a feel for both towns.

There isn't exactly a surplus of backpacking opportunities in Iowa, but Yellow River is your best bet to practice your off-gridding and map-reading skills. Hikers should beeline for the Paint Creek Unit: There are 25 miles of trails here, but the 14-mile loop makes for a solid weekend backpacking trip. The trails are marked, giving a good challenge to those new to the backpacking world. You won’t be getting lost in the open prairie, either—Yellow River is densely forested, with steep-walled river canyons and rugged bluffs towering over the water.

Beyond hiking and backpacking (and obviously stellar views), Yellow River has extraordinary trout fishing—you can set up your tent right on the banks—great equestrian trails, and maintained snowmobiling/snowshoe trails come winter.

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