How To Build an Easel

Building a custom easel for your budding artists is an excellent way to encourage creativity and contain artistic messes. This DIY project creates a sturdy, portable easel that’s perfect for children to explore their artistic talents. With two sides, it allows multiple kids to paint and draw simultaneously, making it ideal for playrooms or shared spaces.

In the video above, This Old House expert Richard Trethewey demonstrates how to construct this versatile easel using materials from home improvement centers and stationery stores.

DIY Easel Materials

Before diving into the construction process, gather the following materials:

• Dry-erase boards (two)
• Dowel rod
• Oak or maple 1x3s (three 8-foot lengths)
• Plastic trays for art supplies
• Roll of paper
• Screws (1¼-inch and ¾-inch)
• Strap hinges
• Washers

Project Tools

For tools, you’ll need:

• Bar clamps and spring clamps
• Combination square
• Drill or driver with various bits (3/32-inch, 1/8-inch, and 1¼-inch hole saw)
• Jigsaw
• Safety glasses
• Tape measure

Step 1: Overview

The basic construction of this easel is simple: hinged, square-cut boards make up the legs, while cross braces and side brackets hold it together.

However, since the easel is hardwood, parents will need to do the cutting and drilling. Kids can help out by measuring and marking the parts and, if they are comfortable holding a drill, by driving the screws into pilot holes.

Step 2: Lay out the pieces

Using a tape measure, mark the midpoints (4 feet) of two 8-foot oak or maple 1x3s to make the four legs. Using a combination square, mark a cutline at each of these points.

On a third 1×3, measure out and mark four shorter lengths: two 24-inch sections for the cross braces and two 14-inches sections for the side brackets.

Hey, kids! A combination square helps you make a straight line at a perfect right angle. Just hold the ruler part flat on the wood and brace the square head against the edge while you mark your line.

Step 3: Cut the wood

Put on your safety glasses, and clamp a 1×3 to a worktable, making sure the cut mark hangs over the edge of the table. Using a jigsaw, carefully cut the pieces of the frame, stopping to move and reclamp the boards before each cut.

Note to parents: Leave the sawing to the adults. Kids can help by catching the pieces as they fall. Just make sure they’re standing far from the saw—and don’t let them lift up on the wood as you cut because that can pinch the blade.

Step 4: Mark and drill the brackets

Each side bracket will pivot on a single screw and lock in place with a slot that slides over a second screw.

Clamp a bracket to your worktable. Measure 3/4 inches from each end of the bracket and, using a combination square, make lines at those points. Then, find the middle of each line and make a small cross mark. Make a third cross mark at the center of the whole bracket.

Using a drill/driver fitted with a 3/32-inch bit, make a pilot hole at the center of the cross mark on one end of the bracket.

At the other end of the bracket, extend the cross mark into a 1/4-inch-wide slot that runs from the middle to the lower edge of the bracket. Using a drill/driver and a 1/4-inch bit, make a hole at the cross mark at the top of the slot. Do this for both brackets.

Step 5: Cut the slots

With the bracket clamped to the worktable, use a jigsaw to cut along the slot lines to meet the 1/4-inch hole. Repeat this process with the other bracket.

Step 6: Drill the dowel holes

Clamp the bracket to the table so that the cross mark in the center of the piece hangs over the edge. Using a drill or impact driver fitted with a 1¼-inch hole saw, make a large hole centered on the mark. This space will hold the dowel and roll of paper in the middle of the easel.

Hey, kids! The hole saw cuts out small plugs—don’t throw them away. Paint them with your favorite designs, and glue a magnet on the back. Now, you have decorative magnets for your easel.

Step 7: Attach the hinges

Line up two 4-foot legs end to end. Lay a strap hinge across the butted ends, allowing space for the hinge knuckles, and mark the wood at the hinge holes. Make pilot holes at your marks using a drill or driver fitted with a 1/8-inch bit. Then attach the hinge by driving 3/4-inch screws through the hinge holes and into the wood.

Repeat for the other pair of legs.

Step 8: Attach the cross braces and brackets

Lay down the two hinged sets of legs about 2 feet apart. Find the vertical midpoint of the legs at 24 inches. Line up one of the cross braces across the face of the legs so that the ends are flush with the outer edges of the legs and the top is at the midpoint mark. Drill one 3/32-inch pilot hole at each end, through the cross brace, and into the legs. For the best holding power, position the holes diagonally. Attach the cross brace with 1¼-inch screws. Repeat with the other cross brace.

Stand the easel up and open the legs wide enough so that the ends of the side brackets are flush with the ends of the cross braces. Mark the legs through the two holes in the bracket (pilot and slot holes). Using a 3/32-inch bit, drill pilot holes into the legs at these marks.

To attach the side brackets, slip a 1¼-inch screw through the pilot hole, then slide a washer over the shank at the back. Drive this screw into the leg, leaving it loose enough for the bracket to pivot.

Drive another screw directly into the opposite leg; leave about 3/4 inch of the screw sticking out. The slot on the bracket should slide over this screw.

Step 9: Mount the boards

Position a dry-erase board over the legs, its bottom aligned with the top of the cross brace. Using a 1/8-inch bit, drill pilot holes through the four corners of the board and into the legs. Attach the board through these holes using 1¼-inch screws.

Step 10: Put on the plastic trays

Line up the plastic trays on the cross braces on the front and back of the easel, and mark the trays where you want to attach them. Lay the plastic trays on a piece of scrap wood and, using a 1/8-inch bit, drill through the marks on the plastic.

Use the holes in the plastic to mark the cross braces for pilot holes, then drill them with a 1/8-inch bit. Attach the trays to the cross braces with 3/4-inch screws fitted with washers.

Step 11: Add the paper

Slide the dowel through the hole in one side bracket, through the paper roll, and out the other side. Then, pull the paper up through the opening atop the easel and down over one of the boards. Secure it with the magnets you made, and you’re ready to paint and draw!

Customization Options

While this easel design is versatile, you can customize it to fit your needs:

• Use 1/4-inch plywood covered with chalkboard or magnetic paint instead of dry-erase boards to reduce costs.
• Create a single-sided easel if space is limited or only one child will use it at a time.
• Paint the wooden frame in bright colors to match your playroom decor.

Maintenance and Care

To keep your DIY easel in top condition:

• Check and tighten screws periodically to ensure stability.
• Clean the dry-erase boards regularly with appropriate cleaners to prevent staining.
• Replace the paper roll when it runs out to maintain a fresh drawing surface.

Safety Considerations

When building and using the easel, keep these safety tips in mind:

• Always supervise children when using power tools during construction.
• Ensure the easel is placed on a flat, stable surface to prevent tipping.
• Teach children how to use art supplies properly to avoid ingestion or spills.

Our Conclusion

Building a DIY easel is a rewarding project that fosters creativity in children while keeping their art off your walls, floor, and other household surfaces. This sturdy, dual-sided design accommodates multiple young artists and folds up easily for storage. With some basic woodworking skills and a few hours of time, you can create a functional and fun addition to your home.

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