How to Build a Mudroom Storage Cabinet with Cubbies

A well-organized entryway can make a world of difference in managing the daily chaos of coats, shoes, and accessories. Building a custom mudroom storage cabinet with cubbies is an excellent solution for families looking to maximize their space and minimize clutter. This DIY project not only adds functionality to your home but also provides an opportunity to showcase your woodworking skills. 

In the video, This Old House’s Jenn Largesse demonstrates how to construct a freestanding storage cabinet perfect for busy households. It includes a tall cubby with hooks for coats and jackets, plus open shelving for shoes and baskets for smaller items like hats and gloves. Below, we’ll take you through the process step by step, including tools, materials, and a cut list.

Planning Your Mudroom Storage Cabinet

Before diving into construction, it’s essential to plan your project carefully.

Assessing Your Space

These instructions create a cabinet with approximate dimensions of 50” wide by 82” high by 16” deep. This may be too large or too small for your purposes. Measure the area where you intend to place the cabinet. Take into account existing features like baseboards or electrical outlets that might affect the design. The cabinet’s freestanding nature makes it versatile for various spaces, but careful measurement ensures a perfect fit.

Choosing Materials

For this project, you’ll primarily need the following materials.

• Two sheets of 3/4-inch plywood
• 1×2 boards for face frames
• Crown molding
• Wood glue and screws
• Paint or stain for finishing

We’ve included a complete list of tools and materials as well as a cut list for the cabinet pieces at the end of this page.

Preparing the Components for a Mudroom Storage Cabinet

With your tools and materials gathered, it’s time to start preparing the individual components of your mudroom storage cabinet.

Cutting the Plywood

Using a table saw or circular saw with a guide, cut the plywood according to the cut list (also at the bottom of the page). This includes pieces for the backing, sides, shelves, and dividers for both the base and upper sections of the cabinet. 

Creating the Shiplap Effect

To add visual interest to the backing, Largesse demonstrates how to create a shiplap-like appearance. This shiplap effect lends rustic charm and enhances the cabinet’s overall aesthetic. If you’d like to to do the same, follow these steps:

1. Set your circular saw blade to a depth of about 1/8 inch.
2. Use a straight edge or guide to make shallow cuts across the backing boards.
3. Space the cuts 4 inches apart for a consistent look.

If you make a mistake with the cuts, don’t worry. You can fill any unnecessary grooves with wood filler before you prime and paint.

Preparing for Assembly

Drill pocket holes in the appropriate pieces as indicated in the cut list. This creates strong, hidden joints when assembling the cabinet. 

If desired, you can also trace the outline of your home’s baseboards on the back edge of the legs and cut it out with a jigsaw. This will allow the cabinet to sit flush against the wall.

Assembling the Base Section of the Storage Cabinet

The base section of the cabinet provides shoe storage and serves as the foundation for the upper cubbies. The following steps will help you assemble it efficiently.

Attaching the Backing and Legs

1. Connect the backing to the outside legs, recessing it forward to accommodate baseboards.
2. Clamp one of the interior dividers to an outside leg with its front edges aligned to act as a spacer to position the backer. 
3. Repeat this process to attach the remaining outside leg.
4. Use the shelves as spacers to position the remaining legs with equal spacing—applying glue to their back edge and then screwing through the backer board and into the leg. 

Installing Shelves and Bench Top

1. Once all the legs are installed, insert the shelves, adjust their height, and secure them with pocket screws.
2. Attach the bench top with glue and screws, ensuring it’s level and secure as you secure it to the backer board.
3. Before proceeding from the base section, ensure that all parts are flush and level to avoid wobbling or instability. Then, make adjustments as needed.

Constructing the Upper Cubbies for the Storage Cabinet

The upper section of the cabinet provides ample storage for coats and other items. Here’s how to construct it.

Building the Frame

1. With its grooves facing down, attach the first outside wall to the backing, ensuring the bottom edges are flush.
2. Stand the assembly up to install the second outside wall.

Adding Shelves and Dividers

1. Install the top shelf flush with the backing’s top edge.
2. Position and secure the lower shelf using vertical dividers as guides, ensuring that the pocket holes face upward.
3. Repeat this process on the center divider to create two tall cubbies.
4. Stand the cabinet top upright, center the divider, and then screw through the backer and into the divider to hold it in place.

Creating and Attaching Face Frames to the Storage Cabinet

Face frames give the cabinet a finished look and increase its durability. These frames can be nailed in place, but Largesse has found that over time, these joints can separate and crack the finish. She recommends glue and pocket hole screws, as outlined below.

Assembling Face Frames

1. Cut 1×2 boards to size for vertical and horizontal pieces.
2. Mark joint locations and drill pocket holes at each joint.
3. Connect the boards using glue and then screws.

Attaching Face Frames

1. Apply glue to the front edges of the plywood pieces.
2. Position the face frames and secure them with nails.
3. Repeat the process for both the base and upper sections.

Adding Storage Cabinet Finishing Touches

The final steps will elevate the appearance and functionality of your mudroom storage cabinet.

Applying Edge Banding

Edge or veneer banding covers the raw edges of plywood, giving it a finished look without adding extra bulk. For exposed plywood edges, such as on the bench seat, iron on adhesive veneer banding, then trim excess with scissors and a utility knife.

Installing Crown Molding

Crown molding adds a touch of elegance and completes the look of the cabinet. The filler strip ensures a seamless transition from the face frame to the molding.

1. Using glue and nails, add a filler strip to the top of the cabinet to accommodate the face frame.
2. Cut crown molding to size using a miter saw.
3. Attach the crown molding with glue and nails.

Painting and Hardware Installation

Choosing high-quality paint ensures a durable finish that can withstand daily wear and tear. Hooks are optional but provide additional functionality, making it easy to organize and access frequently used items.

1. Apply primer and two coats of paint to the entire assembly.
2. Once dry, install hooks in the cubbies for hanging coats and bags. If you wish, you can wait to do this until the cabinet is in place and anchored to the wall.

Final Assembly and Installation

With all components ready, it’s time to assemble your mudroom storage cabinet in place. We highly recommend anchoring the cabinet to the wall studs, especially if there are children in your home or you live in an earthquake-prone area.

1. Move the base and upper sections to their final location.
2. Connect the top to the base using pocket hole screws through the dividers and backing.
3. Holding a stud finder over the top of the cabinet, locate wall studs.
4. Screw through the backboard, both in the top and base, into the studs to prevent tipping.

Organizing Your Space

Add baskets to the cubbies for smaller items and arrange your shoes on the lower shelves. The open design allows for easy access while keeping everything tidy and organized. A well-organized mudroom not only looks good but also makes daily routines more efficient.

Mudroom Storage Cabinet Cut List

Below are the cut lists for the base, top, and crown of the bench.

Base

• Backing – 1 @ 44 5/8″ W x 19″ H
• Legs (Ends) – 2 @ 12 ¼” W x 19″ H
• Legs (Middle) – 2 @ 9 7/8″ W x 19″ H
• 1×2 Face Frame (Vertical) – 4 @ 19″
• 1×2 Face Frame (Horizontal) – 2 @ 13 5/8″
• Shelves – 3 @ 9 7/8″D x 14 3/8″W
• Bench Seat – 1 @ 14″D x 48″W

Top

• Backing – 1 @ 62″H x 44 5/8″W
• Vertical Sides – 2 @ 10″D x 66″H
• Vertical Divider – 1 @ 9 ¼”D x 49″H
• Shelves – 2 @ 9 ¼”D x 44 5/8″W
• Shelf Dividers – 2 @ 9 ¼”D x 11 ½”H
• 1×2 Face Frame (Vertical Shelf Dividers) – 2 @ 11 ½”
• 1×2 Face Frame (Vertical Sides) – 2 @ 66″
• 1×2 Face Frame (Vertical Divider) – 1 @ 48 ¼”
• 1×2 Face Frame (Horizontal) – 2 @ 43 7/8″

Crown

• Crown Sides – 2 @ 10″ miter one end
• Crown Front – 1 @ 46 7/8″ miter both ends
• Filler strip – 2 @ thickness of face frame overhang x at least 2″ H x 10″ L

Materials

• (2) ¾”x 4′ x 8′ plywood
• (5) 1 x 2 x 8′ boards
• Crown molding – Get at least 7 feet
• Hooks
• Wood filler
• Paint and primer
• Wood glue
• 1 ½-inch finish nails
• 1 ¼” pocket hole screws
• 2-inch screws to attach the assembly to wall studs

Tools