A tiered planter is a great way to maximize your garden’s space while adding a decorative touch to your patio or outdoor area. Perfect for small spaces, it allows you to grow multiple herbs in a compact, cascading design within easy reach of your kitchen.
In the video above, Jenn Largesse from House One shows how to construct this attractive and practical garden feature using rot-resistant cedar and store-bought planter boxes. We provide step-by-step instructions below.
Building a Tiered Plant Stand: Materials and Tools
Before starting your tiered planter project, gather the following materials:
- 2 cedar boards (7/8 inches by 1 1/2 inches by 8 feet) for supports
- 3 cedar boards (7/8 inches by 3 inches by 8 feet) for legs and crosspiece
- 6 cedar boards (7/8 inches by 4 inches by 8 feet) for planter boxes
- 3 window box containers to line the planter boxes
- 1 1/2-inch stainless steel pocket hole screws
- 1 5/8-inch stainless steel trim head deck screws
- Wood glue (rated for outdoor use)
You’ll also need these tools on hand:
- Miter saw
- Drill with pocket hole jig
- Speed square
- Small level
- Measuring tape
- Pencil
Preparing the Planter Box Pieces
To begin constructing your tiered planter, you’ll need to cut the cedar boards to size for the planter boxes.
- Measure the width and depth of your store-bought planter boxes.
- Add 1/4 inch to each dimension to make sure the planter will fit freely within the box.
- Cut the 1 by 4 pieces to size for the front, back, and end walls of each box, as well as the base.
For each planter box, you’ll need the following:
- Two pieces (24 inches) for the base
- Four pieces (25 3/4 inches) for the front and back walls
- Four pieces (8 inches) for the side walls
Assembling the Planter Boxes
With your pieces cut to size, you can now assemble the planter boxes. This process involves joining boards and creating a sturdy structure for each planter.
“Getting the legs to sit flat on the ground and ensuring the supports run level across them takes some finesse, but standing the assembly upright and using a small level to check your work will yield the best results,” advises Largesse.
Joining the Wall Boards
First, join your wall boards together.
- Stack two 1 by 4 boards for each wall of the planter box.
- Drill pocket holes along one edge of each board pairing.
- Assemble the walls using wood glue and 1 1/2-inch screws, ensuring the pocket holes face downward to prevent water collection.
Attaching the Base
Next, attach the base.
- Drill two pocket holes at each end and two along one edge of each baseboard.
- Attach one baseboard to the front wall, flush with its bottom edge, using glue and 1 1/2-inch screws.
- Repeat this process to attach the remaining baseboard to the back wall.
Completing the Box Assembly
You’re then ready to finish your first box.
- Position the end walls between the front and back walls.
- Secure the end walls by driving 1 5/8-inch trim-head screws through the face of the front and back walls.
- Attach the baseboards to the end walls using a 1 1/2-inch screw driven through the pocket holes at the ends of each baseboard.
Repeat this process to create all three planter boxes for your tiered structure.
Creating the Tiered Structure
You create the tiered design of this planter using carefully cut legs and supports. This section will guide you through creating and assembling these components.
Cutting the Legs and Supports
First, cut your legs and supports using these steps:
- Cut two 1 by 3 back legs to 37 1/2 inches using a miter saw.
- Set the miter saw to 22.5 degrees and cut two front legs to 40 5/8 inches with parallel mitered ends.
- Cut the 1 by 2 supports with the back end square and the front end mitered at 22.5 degrees: two pieces at 10 3/8 inches, two pieces at 15 3/4 inches, and two pieces at 21 1/8 inches.
Assembling the Leg Structure
You can then assemble the leg structure.
- Secure each support to the back leg with two 1 5/8-inch screws.
- Mark the height of the supports on the back legs.
- Position the supports perpendicular to the back leg using a speed square.
- Align the front leg under the supports, ensuring it’s flush with their mitered front ends and even with the top edge of the back leg.
- Drive two screws through each support into the front leg.
Repeat this process to create two mirrored leg assemblies. Stand each assembly upright and use a small level to make sure the supports run level and the back leg stands plumb.
Mounting the Planter Boxes
With the leg structure complete, you can now attach the planter boxes to create the tiered effect.
- Stand the assembled legs and crosspiece upright.
- Place the top box between the legs, aligning the front edge with the front end of the top support.
- Secure the box by driving two 1 5/8-inch screws through the inside of the box and into each leg piece.
- Repeat this process for the middle and lower boxes, ensuring they’re properly aligned and secured.
Adding Liners and Plants
The final step in creating your tiered planter is to add the liners and your chosen herbs or plants.
- Put a window box liner in each planter box. It’s best to do this before adding soil, as you may need to tilt the boxes to fit the liners into the lower planters.
- Fill each liner with potting soil appropriate for your chosen plants.
- Add your herbs or plants, considering their sunlight and water needs when deciding on placement.
When selecting plants, consider separating woody-stemmed herbs that prefer drier soil, such as rosemary and thyme, from moisture-loving herbs such as basil and parsley. This separation will make watering and maintenance much easier. Also, consider planting potentially invasive herbs such as mint in separate containers to keep them contained.