Sultry summer nights listening to Dalmatian a cappella singers, watching fishermen bring in a catch that will end up on your plate in a few hours, swimming in waters so clear you can count the pebbles . . . I still sigh over the pleasures of holidaying in Croatia nearly 50 years after my first visit.
And my mind still boggles at the sheer variety of places to stay in this relatively small country: tiny pine-forested islands, medieval hilltop villages surrounded by olive groves, limestone cliffs towering over rocky coves, a coastline that rambles for more than 1,000 miles with plenty of detours along the way. Once you’ve narrowed down your choice of destination, the fun begins. How on earth do you choose where to stay?
Croatia’s hotel scene has been booming over the past few years, with a rush of new hotels and refurbishments. Tired old hotels that had seen better days have been not just revamped but reinvented, banishing memories of Tito-era cheap furnishings and indifferent buffets. Historic buildings that had been left in ruins have been given a new lease of life, from former monasteries to old family homes that have been rescued from dereliction.
Now you can choose architectural splendour with captivating views of the Adriatic, or a 300-year-old stone farmhouse high in the karst hills. Stay in a Venetian-style townhouse in the heart of one of Croatia’s most beautiful towns, or on a tiny island in a four-suite boutique hotel with a private pool. Look out over vineyards and olive groves from a restored village house, or enjoy a local tipple beside an infinity pool and the spa of a sleek five-star resort — all the while feasting on fabulous Croatian cuisine that is the taste of the Mediterranean. If you’re on the lookout for a gorgeous and interesting place to stay in Croatia this year, take some inspiration from this collection of the new, nearly new and newly revived.
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Islands
1. Zuviteo Residence, Korcula
A fascinating time in Croatian history came to life in 2020 when the Zuviteo family’s 14th-century stone house was restored and turned into a beautiful boutique hotel within the old town walls on the Dalmatian island of Korcula. It’s an exquisite collection of five rooms, with stylish modern decor framed by exposed stone walls and white ceiling beams. Pick one of the four with balconies or terraces and you’ll be transported into the heart of Korculanski life.
Details Seven nights’ B&B from £1,135pp, including flights and transfers (sunvil.co.uk)
2. Beach Bay Hotel, Hvar
This boutique hotel on the popular island of Hvar already had its location on Hvar Town’s Kriza beach going for it, and its reinvention last summer has made it even more desirable. The 33 nicely understated rooms and suites have balconies and views of the beach and Hvar’s 15th-century Franciscan monastery, while pale rattan furnishings and floor-to-ceiling windows give off beach house vibes. Flop on the fat sunloungers on the terrace while you take in the views to the Pakleni islands.
Details B&B doubles from £220 (suncanihvar.com). Fly to Split, then take the ferry to Hvar Town
3. Valamar Amicor Green Resort, Hvar
Stari Grad, the quieter alternative to Hvar Town, welcomed this new family-focused resort last summer on the northern side of the town’s deep harbour. Its 41 villas have terraces and sunbeds — and a few have plunge pools — to which to retire after larking about in the waterpark, three outdoor pools, playgrounds and sports park. The green in the resort’s name isn’t lip service: 100 per cent of its energy comes from renewable sources.
Details Half-board doubles from £190 (valamar.com). Fly to Split, then take the ferry to Stari Grad
4. Maslina Resort, Hvar
An atmosphere of Zen-like calm pervades this relatively recent arrival, where the slogan is “mindful luxury”. Overlooking Maslinica Bay, about 20 minutes’ walk from Stari Grad, it was built to blend into the surrounding pine forest and olive trees, and combines French and Mediterranean flair with Asian minimalism in 50 rooms and suites and three gorgeous villas. Retreat to the well-equipped spa, chill out by the outdoor pools and pebbly beach, and borrow a wooden bike to explore further.
Details B&B doubles from £435 (maslinaresort.com). Fly to Split, then take the ferry to Stari Grad
5. Zori Timeless Hotel, Palmizana, Pakleni islands
The Pakleni islands, so loved by Hvar daytrippers, have a brand new luxury hotel that lives up to the word “boutique”. The Zori, on Sveti Klement, has four suites, each one luxurious, cosseting and generously sized, with a huge outdoor terrace, hammocks, sofas, dining tables and a private pool and/or hot tub. There’s superb innovative Croatian and international cuisine in the renowned restaurant, which has been in the same family for more than 70 years, and sublime views of Palmizana’s turquoise bay to go with it.
Details B&B doubles from £1,370; minimum three-night booking (zori.hr). Fly to Split, then take the ferry to Hvar Town before being picked up by boat by the hotel
6. Dunatovi Dvori Heritage Hotel, Ugljan
A 25-minute ferry ride from Zadar, on the north Dalmatian coast, brings you to Ugljan, a sleepy island of olive groves, beaches and biking trails. Since last summer the island has been home to the four-star Dunatovi Dvori Heritage Hotel, in a 1912 townhouse by Preko’s marina and beach. Many of its 14 modern rooms have warm exposed-brick walls, French windows and lovely sea views; the garden room has its own terrace. Lounge around the heated pool after sampling Dalmatian cuisine prepared by the chef and owner Stjepan Dunatov, whose family are from the island.
Details Room-only doubles from £112; minimum two-night stay (dunatovi-dvori.hr). Fly to Zadar, then take the ferry to Preko
7. Villa Nai 3.3, Dugi Otok
This luxurious retreat made waves when it opened two years ago on this otherwise rustic island in the Zadar archipelago. Carved into the hillside, its eight sumptuous rooms and suites fan out in front of olive groves that have been in the owner Goran Morovic’s family for centuries. The infinity pool has serene views, and the hotel’s award-winning olive oils grace dishes at its fine-dining and grill restaurants.
Details B&B doubles from £516 (villania.com). Fly to Zadar, then take the ferry to Sali
Coast
8. Hotel Supetar, Cavtat
Last summer’s renovation has transformed Hotel Supetar from an old stalwart that had seen better days into a stylish boutique hotel in one of Dalmatia’s most appealing towns, 13 miles south of Dubrovnik. Behind the mellow stone walls of a century-old villa are 16 airy rooms with an English country cottage-meets-breezy Mediterranean feel. The location on Cavtat’s waterfront comes into its own when you’re dining in the rooftop restaurant and revelling in the views. A pool terrace, garden and intimate wine bar further ramp up the romance.
Details B&B doubles from £326 (adriaticluxuryhotels.com). Fly to Dubrovnik
9. Hotel Osmolis, Zaton
You’ll need a car to make the most of this modern, family-run hotel, which opened last year in the seaside hamlet of Brsecine, near the Trsteno Arboretum, 13 miles north of Dubrovnik. But you’ll be amply rewarded with peaceful views of the Elaphiti islands, dotted about the Adriatic. The 24 contemporary rooms all have sea-facing balconies, while the four suites each feature a private pool or a hot tub. You see the same glorious views from the outdoor pool, which blends smoothly into the indoor pool and spa. Feast on Dalmatian cuisine in the smart restaurant.
Details B&B doubles from £165, minimum two-night stay (osmolis.hr). Fly to Dubrovnik
10. Aminess Khalani Beach Hotel, Makarska
It was only last year that Makarska got its first five-star offering: this modern, 299-room beach hotel, a 30-minute walk from the centre. When you’re not lazing on its stretch of beach, soak up the sea views from the enormous terrace and three pools. The vistas are even more impressive from the rooftop bar and restaurant, backed by the majesty of the Biokovo mountains. Full-length windows bring light into the spa, which has an indoor pool, a hot tub and sauna.
Details Seven nights’ B&B from £804pp, including flights and transfers (jet2.com)
11. Hotel Milenij, Makarska
There’s more than a hint of art deco to the façade of Makarska’s latest four-star hotel. Splashes of colour liven up the 21 low-key rooms. Book one with a balcony facing the sea. The broad sweep of Makarska’s main pebbly beach is right in front of the hotel, where you’ll also find the attractive restaurant terrace and a selection of Dalmatian specialities.
Details Seven nights’ B&B from £796pp, including flights and transfers (sunvil.co.uk)
12. Veladrion Resort, Sveti Juraj
The wild coastline between the Kvarner Gulf and the Velebit mountains isn’t the first place you would expect to find a five-star resort, but this luxurious outpost opened here this spring, on the shores of an inlet 50 miles south of Rijeka. The stately, adults-only hotel has landscaped gardens, gazebos, indoor and outdoor pools, a spa, a restaurant and a beach bar, and its 19 elegant rooms (including a treehouse) make the most of the wonderful sea views. Veladrion’s boats can also ferry you around the Kvarner islands.
Details B&B doubles from £325 (veladrion.com). Fly to Rijeka
13. Palazzo Rainis Hotel & Spa, Novigrad
Old and new mingle harmoniously at this elegant, adults-only boutique hotel, which opened last year near Novigrad’s marina in a carefully reconstructed villa that once belonged to a 19th-century Venetian chemist; there’s also a sympathetically designed modern annexe. An overall feeling of serenity extends to the 16 rooms and suites, which mix modern design with mid-century touches, and most have balconies and views over the sea and pool terrace. The restaurant showcases superior Istrian cuisine, while the compact spa has a sauna and a hot tub.
Details B&B doubles from £312 (palazzorainis.com). Fly to Pula or Trieste
14. Grand Hotel Brioni, Pula, Istria
The reopening of this formerly derelict hotel last summer revived a slice of Seventies Yugoslav history. Many of the 227 refined rooms have views of the Adriatic and Brijuni National Park islands as well as the infinity pool and beach. Floor-to-ceiling windows everywhere make the most of the sunlight, including at the spa’s indoor pool. The five restaurants and bars offer variations on Mediterranean cuisine and capitalise on the views.
Details Seven nights’ room-only from £1,140pp, including flights (thomascook.com)
15. Hotel Marinus, Marina, near Trogir
About nine miles west of Trogir is the four-star Hotel Marinus, which opened last year in the small village of Marina. All but three of its 28 modern rooms have balconies where you can chill out and take in the views of this quiet inlet and the hills beyond. Flop on the terrace by the infinity pool, unwind in the spa’s indoor pool or grab a sunlounger on the pebbly beach right in front of the hotel. Order cocktails from the sophisticated Marinus Beach Bar before tasting Dalmatian cuisine in Oblica restaurant.
Details B&B doubles from £214 (hotelmarinus.com). Fly to Split
16. Arena One 99 Glamping, Pomer, Istria
Istria is campsite central, but Arena One 99 Glamping offers a little more luxury. Here, just outside the village of Pomer and a ten-minute drive south of Pula, fully equipped lodge tents are tucked within a cooling pine forest facing its own stretch of pebbly beach. Everything’s set for a relaxing stay in nature: air-conditioned lodges, a spa with hot tubs and saunas, an outdoor yoga platform, ceramic workshops, a windsurfing school, beach bars and a restaurant, as well as clubs for children and teenagers.
Details Self-catering lodge tents from £94; minimum three-night stay (arenacampsites.com). Fly to Pula
Rural
17. Emotheo Heritage Hotel, Imotski
The gorgeous limestone lakes of Imotski are Croatia’s newest Unesco Global Geopark and the most striking of them, Blue Lake, is only 50 yards from this hotel. Inside a smooth structure of creamy Dalmatian stone are smart rooms of warm wood and the same vivid blue as the lake. The restaurant is just as smart and does a modern take on Dalmatian dishes. It’s a 45-minute drive from the coast at Makarska, but you’ll be in the heart of Dalmatia’s hinterland and ten minutes from the Bosnian border.
Details Room-only doubles from £125 (emotheo.hr). Fly to Split
18. San Canzian Village & Hotel, Istria
Deep within Istria’s rugged interior, near Buje, this upscale collection of restored stone houses gives a heady flavour of rural life in this land of medieval hilltop villages and woods teeming with truffles. Surrounded by olive groves, vineyards and pine forests, the houses cluster around a destination restaurant (run by the team behind Michelin-starred Noel in Zagreb) and a beautifully landscaped pool terrace. The 24 rooms and suites have all the understated luxury you want in a chic countryside retreat. Book the two-level Villa San Canzian with its own plunge pool.
Details B&B doubles from £300; minimum two-night stay (san-canzian.hr). Fly to Pula or Trieste
19. Hotel Balatura, Tribalj
High in the karst hills above the Kvarner Gulf, the Croatian-German Godec family opened this rustic-chic hotel in a 300-year-old stone farmhouse in 2008, adding other previously abandoned buildings in the tiny village, along with an outdoor pool and a gallery, along the way. The result is a delightfully bohemian hideaway with exposed stone walls, beamed ceilings, antique furnishings and a convivial garden courtyard. A half-hour drive from Rijeka, it hosts regular cultural events, workshops and yoga retreats and has a vegetarian restaurant — a rarity in these parts.
Details Room-only doubles from £98 (hotel-balatura.hr). Fly to Rijeka
Cities
20. Zonar Hotel, Zagreb
What used to be the old Hotel Panorama has been transformed into the sleek four-star Zonar Zagreb, which opened this year near the Botanical Garden. Its 285 modern rooms maximise views of the city, some featuring standalone baths and even an indoor swing. The star of the hotel is the rooftop pool 19 storeys up, along with the Cherry Pop bar, where the views over the Croatian capital are spectacular. Refuel at the Skinny Pig à la carte restaurant or Skinny Pig steakhouse after a workout in the amusingly named Cheeky Buns Fitness Studio.
Details Room-only doubles from £108 (maistra.com). Fly to Zagreb
21. Palace Natali, Dubrovnik
From its lofty position below Mount Srd, the new Palace Natali lords it over Dubrovnik old town. Which is apt, really, because the hotel was originally the 16th-century summer home of the aristocratic Natali family. Now this scrubbed-up stone residence looks out over Renaissance-style gardens that frame the Adriatic, with fabulous views from the restaurant, outdoor pool and hot tub. The 20 contemporary rooms are in four separate buildings, the most desirable featuring balconies with sea views. There’s a gym, a library and a games room, and the zigzagging footpath to Mount Srd is only a few minutes’ walk away.
Details B&B doubles from £335 (palacenatali.com). Fly to Dubrovnik
22. The Byron, Dubrovnik
This relatively new addition to Dubrovnik’s boutique hotel scene is tucked away in a lane by the Old Town’s cathedral. The Byron has only four rooms in this lovingly restored 17th-century townhouse (although three more are coming next year), each one a light and airy space with echoes of a French country cottage. The elegant communal room, with its old piano under beamed ceilings, sets the tone for the other rooms, three of which have handcrafted kitchenettes. The unfailingly helpful service sets the Byron apart — it’s run by the same couple who ran the much-missed Fresh Sheets Kathedral B&B.
Details Room-only doubles from £234 (thebyrondubrovnik.com). Fly to Dubrovnik
23. Hotel Ambasador, Split
The new incarnation of the original 1937 Hotel Ambasador is a sleek, classy affair with an enviable waterfront location in Split’s port at the foot of Marjan Hill. Opened last September, this glossy white tower of a hotel offers beautiful city and sea views from 101 contemporary rooms on six floors. The pool and terrace bar — one of the dreamiest spots to watch life go by — is on the third floor, while the underground spa has saunas and fitness equipment, and the ground-floor restaurant serves refined Mediterranean cuisine next to trendy Bar Split.
Details B&B doubles from £218 (ambasadorsplit.com). Fly to Split
24. Hilton Rijeka Costabella Beach Resort & Spa, Rijeka
Hilton created its own world on this relatively quiet stretch of coastline between Rijeka and Opatija two years ago when it opened the enormous Hilton Rijeka Costabella Beach Resort & Spa. Six restaurants (including Michelin-starred Nebo), a massive spa with an indoor pool and health club, an infinity pool looking out over the sea and a pebbly 200m beach invite lazy days soaking up the Adriatic sunshine. Its 132 refined minimalist rooms and 62 villas and suites have either balconies or terraces.
Details B&B doubles from £230 (hilton.com). Fly to Rijeka
25. Armerun Heritage Hotel & Residence, Sibenik
Underrated Sibenik got a new boutique hotel a couple of years ago when Armerun Heritage Hotel opened on the site of a former Dominican monastery on the city’s attractive waterfront. Behind a pleasing façade of creamy Dalmatian stone and green shutters, 21 modern rooms and apartments are warmed by exposed stone walls and views either of the Adriatic or Sibenik’s old town, including its magnificent cathedral. Push the boat out by booking one of the spacious apartments and spoil yourself with a hot tub on the sea-facing terrace.
Details B&B doubles from £130 (armerun.com). Fly to Split
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