The state banquet laid on by President Macron for the King last autumn featured blue lobster and crab, corn-flavoured Bresse chicken, a cheese platter and macaroon with rose petal cream, raspberries and lychees.
Some commentators described the four-course meal as lavish, although this is questionable. By comparison with yesteryear, it was frugal.
In 1913, when George V made a state visit to France, for instance, Raymond Poincaré, his presidential host, offered a 12-course meal that included trout, lamb, foie gras, young Bresse chickens with pike stuffing and hams glazed with Marsala.
The shrinkage of state banquets, which has been a trend over the past century, is underlined by a forthcoming auction of menus from meals served to French presidents, British monarchs and other world leaders. The collection, which spans 155 years of gastronomic diplomacy, is that of Christophe Marguin, a renowned chef from Lyons.
“This is part of the history of France and Britain,” said Marguin, whose family has been in the restaurant business for five generations. He has 4,000 or so menus from state luncheons and dinners given by French heads of state, or laid on for them on their travels. In addition, he has more than 600 from banquets in Britain.
A notable item in the collection is a menu from the banquet given by General de Gaulle, then the French president, for President Kennedy at the Palace of Versailles in June 1961. They ate a meal that included Renaissance beef fillet paired with a 1953 Château Cheval Blanc — although no one paid much attention to the food, or indeed to JFK, as his wife, Jacqueline, stole the show.
Marguin, 56, said that he was struck by the dwindling quantity of food consumed. In 1904, for instance, the Entente Cordiale was marked by an 18-course meal given to Edward VII by Emile Loubet, the French president of the day. When Elizabeth II was greeted by President Chirac to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Franco-British agreements, she was rationed to five courses.
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“A hundred years ago, they had nothing else to do but eat so they took their time,” Marguin said. “They blocked four or five hours for the meal. Today, we have smartphones, computers, aeroplanes, private jets and everyone is always in a hurry.” He said that French presidents were now often expected to eat in 45 minutes, with guests who dallied over their food likely to have the dishes removed before they were finished.
Opinions vary as to the merits of the old five-hour banquet. Some observers believe they offered world leaders an unique opportunity to establish a personal relationship. Others suggest that indigestion risked souring the mood. All, however, agree that they are about more than food. Diplomats say they are used to highlight power and prestige, particularly in France, where it is hoped that guests will rise from the table full of admiration for the host country.
Marguin said not all visitors were treated equally, with the wine list providing an indication of their importance. Queen Elizabeth, for instance, was always given the finest possible bottles because “she was highest in the protocol order”. In 2004, the French served her a 1990 Château d’Yquem, a 1988 Château Mouton Rothschild, and a 1993 Dom Pérignon champagne. “It’s as good as you can get,” said Marguin, who added that lesser figures sometimes had to make do with two good but not great wines and no champagne.
The menu collection — estimated to be worth about €150,000 — is to be sold at auction in Paris in May. It features many British royal family menus written in French, the language used by the monarchy at banquets for the best part of 1,000 years. A dinner served to Queen Victoria in 1885 featured potage à la tête de veau (calf’s head soup), for example, while Charles and Diana’s wedding breakfast in 1981 included suprême de volaille Princesse de Galles (Princess of Wales chicken supreme). Prince William and Kate did things differently. When they married in 2011, the menu, which included organic lamb and Highgrove spring vegetables, was written in English.
Marguin is selling his collection because he fears that it could be lost if it remains in his family. He hopes that it will go to a single bidder and kept intact. Asked whether Britain or France had the best banquets, he refused to answer “because I don’t want to upset you”.
