Scrambled and curried: Romy Gill’s recipes for cooking with paneer
India’s favourite fresh cheese is such a versatile ingredient: try it scrambled and spiced, or cut into cubes, marinated in spices, then smothered in a terrific cashew sauce
Paneer, a fresh, unaged cheese, is a quintessential ingredient in Indian cuisine,particularly in the north of the country. This fresh cheese has always been cherished at my house for its ability to absorb spices and flavours, plus it doesn’t melt when heated, making it ideal for curries, snacks and even sweet dishes. It’s also a staple in Indian vegetarian cookery, not least because it’s a rich source of protein and calcium. According to some, paneer dates back several centuries. Some historical records suggest that paneer was introduced to India during the Mughal period, around the 16th century, possibly influenced by the Persian and Afghan rulers. There is also evidence that a form of paneer existed in ancient India – it’s mentioned in the Vedic texts, where it is referred to as peynir, derived from the Persian word for cheese.Paneer’s popularity grew during the Mughal era, when it was used in the royal kitchens to prepare all sorts of elaborate dishes, but, over time, it became an integral part of the nation’s cuisine. It’s often still made at home by curdling milk with a souring agent such as lemon juice and/or vinegar.
This is the easiest and most delicious paneer dish to make at home, and perfect if you’re trying paneer for the first time. It’s also a great choice for packed lunches or summer picnics: my daughters like to cut a pitta in half, turn each half into a pocket and fill with paneer to enjoy with pickled onions and salad on the side. You could also eat this paneer in a wrap, along with sliced onions and the chutney of your choice.
Prep 15 min Cook 20 min Rest 5 min Serves 4
5 tsp sunflower oil, or any other neutral oil of your choice 1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp mustard seeds
3 banana shallots, peeled and finely chopped 4 large garlic cloves, peeled and grated 20g fresh root ginger, peeled and grated 2–3 green chillies, finely chopped 2 medium tomatoes, chopped Salt
1 tsp ground turmeric 75g frozen peas, soaked in water for 10 minutes or so 225g paneer, grated (if using homemade paneer, which isn’t as firm as shop-bought, just crumble it up) 1 tsp garam masala
1 small handful fresh coriander, chopped
Put the oil in a saucepan on a high heat and, once it’s good and hot, add the cumin and mustard seeds. The moment they start to sizzle, add the shallots and cook, stirring, for three minutes. Add the garlic and ginger, cook for a minute more, then stir in the green chillies and tomatoes, and cook for two to three minutes. Season with salt, stir in the turmeric, then drain the frozen peas, add to the pan and cook, stirring, for another two to three minutes.
When the peas are well coated, mix in the grated paneer, turn down the heat to a simmer, cover the pan and leave to cook for five minutes. Just before the end of that cooking time, sprinkle the garam masala and chopped coriander over the top, and stir in.
Take the pan off the heat, leave to rest for five minutes, then serve with rice, flatbreads or any side dish of your choice.
Shahi paneer (paneer with cashews)
Romy Gill’s shahi paneer, or paneer with cashews.
This dish of cubed paneer covered in a creamy, aromatic gravy is similar to butter chicken, and ideal for non-meat-eaters; if you follow a plant-based diet, you can switch the paneer for cubed tofu. The subtle sweetness of the cashews works beautifully with the tomatoes and spices, so every bite unfolds a symphony of flavours.
Prep 15 min Marinade 1 hr Cook 50 min Rest 10 min Serves 4
400g paneer, cut into 3cm cubes 2 tsp sunflower oil
For the marinade 1 tsp tandoori masala
1 tsp garam masala
1 tsp chilli powder
½ tsp salt 10g fresh root ginger, peeled and grated 2–3 large garlic cloves, peeled and grated
For the sauce 30ml sunflower oil, or 4 tsp melted ghee or 25g butter 1 large onion, peeled and roughly chopped 15g fresh root ginger, peeled and roughly chopped 3 large garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped 2 medium tomatoes, roughly chopped 25g cashew nuts
1 tsp salt
1 tsp tandoori masala
1 tsp garam masala
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp red chilli powder
1 tsp caster sugar 5–6 green cardamom pods, crushed
First make the marinade. Put the spices, chilli powder and salt in a bowl with 20ml water. Mix well, then add the ginger, garlic and paneer, and toss so the paneeris well coated. Cover and put in the fridge to marinate for an hour.
Meanwhile, make the sauce. Put the oil in a frying pan on a high heat and, once hot, add the onion, ginger and garlic and cook, stirring continuously, for five minutes. Add the tomatoes and cashew nuts, cook, still stirring, for five minutes, then add the salt, tandoori masala, garam masala, turmeric, red chilli powder and sugar, and cook for a further two minutes. Take off the heat and leave to cool.
Once the sauce has cooled, tip it into a blender or food processor and blitz to a fine paste. Pour it back into the same pan and cook over a low heat, stirring regularly, for three or four minutes, to heat through.
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Meanwhile, heat two teaspoons of sunflower oil in a second pan and, once hot, add the marinated paneer and cook, turning often, for three or four minutes, until lightly browned all over. Tip the fried paneer into the sauce and cook over a medium heat for another two minutes. Add 200ml water, bring to a boil, then turn down the heat to a simmer, cover the pan and cook for five minutes.
Take off the heat, sprinkle with the cardamom and leave to rest for at least 10 minutes before serving with rice or Indian flatbreads – I like mine with a crisp naan.
These recipes are edited extracts from Romy Gill’s India,by Romy Gill, published by Quadrille at £28. To order a copy for £25.20, go to guardianbookshop.com
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