Chapter 9
Rizal’s Grand Tour of Europe with
Maximo Viola (1887)
Chapter 9: Rizal’s Grand Tour of Europe with Maximo Viola
(1887)
After the publication of Noli Me
Tangere, Rizal planned to visit important
places in Europe. Dr. Maximo Viola agreed
to be his traveling companion. Rizal had
received Paciano’s remittance of P1000
which has forwarded by Juan Luna from
Paris and immediately paid his debt to
Viola which he loaned so that the Noli
could be printed. First, he and Viola visited
Potsdam, a city near Berlin.
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The Tour Begins
May 11, 1887- Rizal and Viola left Berlin by train. Their next destination
was DRESDEN, “one of the best cities in Germany”.
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Dresden
Rizal and Viola visited Dr. Adolph B. Meyer, who was
overjoyed to see them. In the Museum of Art, Rizal was
deeply impressed by a painting of
“Prometheus Bound”.
They also meet Dr. Feodor Jagor and heard their plan
about Leitmeritz. He told Rizal to wire the professor of their
arrival at Leitmeritz.
Rizal and Viola sent a wire to Blumentritt on their stop-
over at Teschen, Czechoslovakia after leaving Dresden for
Leitmeritz. 4
First Meeting with Blumentritt
At 1:30 p.m. of May 13, 1887, the train, with Rizal and Viola on board
arrived at the railroad station of Leimeritz, Bohemia. Professor Blumentritt,
who had received their wire was at the station. He was carrying a pencil
sketch of Rizal which the latter had previously sent him, so that he could
identify his Filipino friend. He warmly received by Rizal and Viola.
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First Meeting with Blumentritt
For the first time, the two great scholars --- Rizal and Blumentritt ---
who came to know each other by correspondence, met in person. They
greeted each other in fluent German.
Blumentritt was a kind0hearted, old Austrian professor. Upon seeing the
talented Rizal for the first time, he immediately took him into heart, loving
him as a son.
Professor Blumentritt, the genial host, helped Rizal and Viola to get a
room at Hotel Krebs, after which he brought them to his home and introduced
them to his wife and family. The two Filipino tourists spent many pleasant
hours at the home of their kind host. They stayed in Leitmeritz from May 13
to May 16, 1887.
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Beautiful Memories of Leitmeritz
Rizal had beautiful memories of his visit to Leitmeritz. He enjoyed the warm
hostility of the Blumentritt family. The professor’s wife Rosa, was a good
cook, and she prepared special Austrian dishes which Rizal liked very much.
His children were Dolores (called Dora or Dorita by Rizal), Conrad, and Fritz.
Blumentritt proved to be a great tourist guide as well as a hospitable host. He
showed the scenic and historical spots of Leitmeritz to his visitor. The
Burgomaster (town mayor) was also amazed by Rizal’s “privileged talent”.
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Prague
After Leitmeritz, Rizal and Viola visited the historic city of Prague. They
carried letters of recommendation from Blumentritt to Dr. Willkomm,
professor of natural history at the University of Prague. The good professor
and his charming wife and daughters welcomed them and showed them the
city’s historic spots.
Rizal and Viola visited the tomb of Copernicus, the famous astronomer;
the museum of natural history; the bacteriological laboratories; the famous
cave where San Juan Nepomuceno, the Catholic saint, was imprisoned; and
the bridge from which this saint was hurled into the river. After saying
goodbye to Professor Willkomm and his family the two tourists went to
Brunn. According to Viola, “nothing of importance happened” in this city.
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Vienna
On May 20, Rizal and Viola arrived in the beautiful city of Vienna, the
capital of Austria-Hungary. Famous in song and story, this city fascinated
Rizal because of its beautiful buildings, religious images, haunting waltzes,
and majestic charm. Vienna was truly the “Queen of the Danube”.
Rizal and Viola, armed with the letter of recommendation from Blumentritt,
met Norfenfals, one of the greatest Novelists in Europe during that time. This
great Austrian novelist was favorably impressed by Rizal, and years later he
spoke highly of Rizal, “whose genius he so much admired”.
Rizal and Viola stayed in Hotel Metropole. They visited the city’s interesting
places, such as churches, museums, art galleries, theaters, and public parks.
They met two good friends of Bluementritt --- Masner and Nordmann,
Austrian scholars. 9
Danubian Voyage to Lintz
On May 24, Rizal and Viola left Vienna on a river boat to see beautiful
sights of the Danube River. As they traveled along the famous river, Rizal
observed keenly the river sights --- the barges loaded with products, the
flowers and plants growing along the river banks, the boats with families
living on them, and the quaint villages on the riversides. We particularly
noticed that the passengers on the river boat were using paper napkins during
the meals, which was a novelty to him. His fellow passenger, Viola,
commented that the paper napkins were “more hygienic and economical than
cloth napkins”.
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From Lintz to Rheinfall
The river voyage ended in Lintz. They traveled overland to Salzburg, and
from there to Munich where they sojourned for a short period of time to savor
the famous Munich beer, reputed to be the best in Germany.
From Munich, they went to Nuremberg, one of the oldest cities in Germany.
Among the sights which they saw in this city were the horrible torture
machines used by the Inquisition.
Rizal examined carefully these torture machines. He and Viola were
impressed carefully by the manufacture of dolls which was the biggest
industry in the country.
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From Lintz to Rheinfall
After Munich, they visited Ulm. The Cathedral of this city was “the largest
and tallest in all Germany”. Viola related that he and Rizal climbed its many
hundred steps. He rested twice in the way to the tower and felt dizzy from the
strain upon reaching the top. Rizal, on the other hand, ascended without
resting and was not tired when he reached the top.
From Ulm, they went to Stuttgart, Baden, and hen Rheinfall (Cascade of the
Rhine). At Rheinfall, they saw the waterfall, “the most beautiful waterfall of
Europe”.
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Crossing the Frontier to Switzerland
From Rheinfall, they crossed the frontier to Schaffhausen, Switzerland.
They stayed in this city from June 2 to 3, 1887. They continued their tour to
Basel (Bale), Bern, and Lausanne.
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Geneva
After Sightseeing in Lausanne, Rizal and Viola left on a little boat,
crossing the foggy Leman Lake to Geneva. This Swiss city is one of the most
beautiful cities in Europe, visited by world tourist every year. The people of
Geneva were linguists, speaking French, German, and Italian. Rizal conversed
with them in these three languages. Aside from visiting the tourist spots, Rizal
and Viola went boating on the lake. In this aquatic excursion, Rizal showed
his rowing prowess which he acquired during his boyhood days
in Calamba.
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Geneva
On June 19, 1887, Rizal treated Viola to a blow-out. It was his 26th
birthday. According to Filipino custom. He celebrated his birthday with a
sumptuous meal.
Rizal and Viola spent fifteen delightful days in Geneva. On June 23, they
parted ways --- Viola returned to Barcelona while Rizal continued the tour to
Italy.
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Rizal Resents Exhibition of Igorots in 1887 Madrid Exposition
While Rizal, accompanied by Dr. Viola, was happily touring Europe, an
Exposition of the Philippines was held in Madrid, Spain. Upon reaching
Geneva (Switzerland), he received sad news from his friends in Madrid of the
deplorable conditions of the primitive Igorots who were exhibited in this
exposition, some of whom died, and whose scanty clothing (G-strings) and
crude weapons were objects of mockery and laughter by the Spanish people
and press. Being a champion of human dignity, Rizal was outraged by this
degradation of his fellow countrymen the Igorots of Northern Luzon. In the
Letter to his friend, Blumentritt; dated Geneva, June 6, 1887.
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Rizal Resents Exhibition of Igorots in 1887 Madrid Exposition
In another letter to Blumentritt, dated Geneva, June 19, 1887, Rizal said he
was in favor of holding an exposition, “but not an exhibition of add
individuals, showing out countrymen as a curiosity to entertain the idle
inhabitants of Madrid”.
He emphatically reiterated: “We want an industrial exposition of human
beings who are compelled to live almost outdoors and die of nostalgia
pneumonia or typhus!”
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Rizal in Italy
From Geneva, Rizal went to Italy. He visited Turin, Milan, Venice, and
Florence. On June 27, 1887, he reached Rome, the “eternal city” and also
called the “City of the Caesars”. He was thrilled by the sights and memories
of the Eternal City. Describing to Blumentritt, the “grandeur that was Rome”,
he wrote on June 27, 1887.
On the 29th, the Feast Day of St. Peter and St. Paul, Rizal visited for the first
time the Vatican, the “City of the Popes” and the capital of Christendom. He
was deeply impressed by the magnificent edifices, particularly of St. Peter’s
Church, the rare works of art, the vast St. Peter’s Square, the colorful Papal
Guards and the atmosphere of religious devotion that pervaded the Vatican.
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Rizal in Italy
Every night, after sightseeing the whole day, Rizal returned to his hotel,
very tired. “I am tired as a dog,” he wrote to Blumentritt, “but I will sleep as a
God”.
After a week of wonderful sojourn in Rome, he prepared to return to the
Philippines. He had already written to his father that he was coming home.
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