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THE PRINCIPLES AND
PRACTICE OF
ELECTRICAL
EPILATION
This book is dedicated to
Peter, a special friend whose
inspiration has been
invaluable; and Rod Fabes,
who sadly died in March 1995.
His support and
encouragement in the field of
epilation was constant
The Principles and
Practice of Electrical
Epilation
Third edition

Sheila Godfrey, FIE, DRE, FBAE,

FBABTAC
Butterworth-Heinemann
Linacre House, Jordan Hill, Oxford OX2 8DP
225 Wildwood Avenue, Woburn, MA 01801-2041
A division of Reed Educational and Professional Publishing Ltd

A member of the Reed Elsevier plc group

First published 1992

Reprinted 1993 (twice), 1994, 1995 (twice)
Second edition 1996
Reprinted 1997, 1998, 1999 (twice)
Third edition 2001

© Sheila Godfrey 1992, 1996, 2001

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any material form
(including photocopying or storing in any medium by electronic means and whether or not
transiently or incidentally to some other use of this publication) without the written
permission of the copyright holder except in accordance with the provisions of the
Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 or under the terms of a licence issued by the
Copyright Licensing Agency Ltd, 90 Tottenham Court Road, London, England W1P 0LP.
Applications for the copyright holder's written permission to reproduce any part of this
publication should be addressed to the publishers

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

Godfrey, Sheila
The principles and practice of electrical epilation. – 3rd ed.
1. Hair – Removal
I. Title
617.4'779

Library of Congress Cataloguing in Publication Data

Godfrey, Sheila.
The principles and practice of electrical epilation/Sheila Godfrey – 3rd ed.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
1. Hair – Removal. 2. Electrolysis in surgery. I. Title.
RL115.5 G64
617.4'779-dc21 2001025554

ISBN 0 7506 5226 8

For information on all Butterworth-Heinemann publications visit

our website at www.bh.com
Composition by Scribe Design, Gillingham, Kent UK
Printed and bound in Great Britain
Contents
Preface
Acknowledgements
1 The skin
2 Dermatology
3 Hair
4 The cardiovascular system
5 The endocrine system
6 Hirsutism and hypertrichosis
7 Natural hormone changes in a woman's life
8 Gender reassignment
9 Needles
10 Electricity
11 Galvanic electrolysis
12 High-frequency treatment
13 The blend technique
14 Non-permanent methods of hair removal
15 Consultation
16 Contraindications
17 Practical application of electrical epilation
18 Incorrect working techniques
19 Hygiene and sterilization
20 First aid
21 Starting and running a business
22 Epilation equipment
23 Advertising and public relations
24 Professional ethics
25 Case histories
Glossary
Bibliography
Professional associations
Examination boards in the UK
Index
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Preface
The purpose of this book is to provide up-to-date information on all
aspects of electro-epilation for both practising electrolysists and
students studying for the following qualifications or affiliations:

• Diploma in Remedial Electrolysis

• British Association of Electrolysists
• Exdexcel
• CIBTAC (Confederation of International Beauty Therapy and
Cosmetology)
• City and Guilds of London Institute (CGLI)
• VTCT Vocational Charitable Trust
• ITEC International Therapy Examination Council

Many changes have taken place in the field of electrolysis during the
past thirty years. The wide range of changes that have taken place
include:

• Health and Safety at Work Act 1974

• The introduction of disposable sterile needles
• Local Government Miscellaneous Provisions Act 1982
• Changes relating to technology in the development and
manufacture of equipment
• AIDS/HIV
• The rising incidence of hepatitis B
• The identification of hepatitis C, D, E and G
• The introduction of the blend epilation technique into the UK
• Computerised electro-epilation machines
• The introduction of the National/Scottish Vocational Qualification
Level 3
• The advent of laser and intense pulsed light systems for long-term
hair removal
• Many changes in legislation with regard to employment of staff

Knowledge of allied subjects such as endocrinology, hygiene,

anatomy, physiology and electricity is essential to a thorough
understanding of why hair growth occurs and how this problem,
which causes distress to very many people, can be treated safely
and effectively.

Companies consulted
Michael Dufty Partnership – Chartered Accountants, Birmingham
Ballet Needles, Arand Ltd, Paris
Carlton Professional, Taylor Reeson Laboratories, Sussex
Continental Trades and Industry (CTI), Holland
E.A. Ellison, Coventry
Hairdressing and Beauty Equipment Centre, London
House of Famuir, Sandy, Bedfordshire
HSBC Insurance Brokers, Haywards Heath, Sussex
International Hair Route Magazine, Ontario
Lloyds TSB Bank plc
Solihull Hospital, Microbiology Department
Acknowledgements
I wish to express my thanks to the friends, colleagues and business
associates who so willingly provided information for the three
editions of this book.
My particular thanks go to Angela Barbagelata-Fabes, the late
Rod Fabes and engineers Paul Atherton and Chris Johnson of
Carlton Professional; Joseph Asch of Ballet needles, Paris for his
valuable input into all three editions, particularly in relation to the
provision of photographs; Romano Scavo of CTI, Holland for his help
with technical information and photographs; James Paisner of
Synoptic Products for information on sterilization
requirements/standards in the USA; and Derek Copperthwaite of
International Hair Route Magazine for providing material for the
history of the epilation needle.
Special thanks and appreciation go to Moira Paulusz, Deputy
Editor, Health and Beauty Salon,for her invaluable help with research
and meticulous attention to detail on checking the manuscript; to
Elaine Leek, the freelance copy editor, for helping me meet the
publication deadline; also to Dawn Ward, Jennifer Cartwright, Janice
Brown (Epilation Trainer, House of Famuir) and Bill Peberdy for their
support and encouragement. Thanks are due also to Correna Lewis
for her help in research and typing of the manuscript, Rita Roberts
for her sympathetic teaching and support throughout the years, and
last but not least, my American colleague John Fantz of California for
sharing his knowledge on the history and development of blend
epilation.
Photographs supplied by:

Angela Barbagelata-Fabes, Carlton Professional, Figures 13.5

(middle), 22.1 (top), 22.2 (bottom) and 22.6 (top)
Ballet Needles, Figure 9.10
Cosmetronic UK Ltd, Figure 22.4
Hairdressing and Beauty Equipment Centre, Figures 19.8 and 22.6
(middle)
John Fantz, Figures 11.1, 13.1 and 13.2
Joseph Asch, Figures 13.15, 13.16, 13.17 and 14.1
House of Famuir, Figures 22.1 (middle) and 22.7
E. A. Ellison, Figures 9.6(b), 9.8, 19.7, 22.1 (bottom), 22.2 (top), 22.3
and 22.5 (top and middle)
Continental Trades and Industry (CTI), Figures 9.6(c ), 9.9, 13.5
(top), 22.5 (bottom) and 22.6 (bottom)
1 The skin
The skin is the largest organ of the body and is vital to the health and
well-being of the individual. It has a number of functions that must be
fully understood in order to obtain the maximum benefits without side
effects when applying electrical epilation.

The skin provides shape and an outer, waterproof covering for the
body. Functions include:

Sensation – touch, heat, cold, pain.

Heat regulation – blood vessels, perspiration.
Absorption – of certain medications via creams and patches
such as hormone replacement therapy (HRT).
Protection – acid mantle against bacteria and micro-organisms,
waterproof, against ultraviolet (UV) light, against knocks and
blows.
Excretion – of toxins and waste products onto the skin's surface
in perspiration.
Secretion – of sebum onto the skin's surface which combines
with perspiration to form the acid mantle.

The practising electrolysist should be conversant with the anatomy

and physiology of the skin, and should be able to recognize the
differences between a healthy skin and one suffering from disease or
disorders.
The skin consists of three main layers:

• Epidermis – the outer layer, composed of several layers of dead

keratinized cells.
• Dermis – consists of two divisions: (a) the reticular layer and (b)
the papillary layer.
• Subcutaneous layer – found immediately below the dermis.
Structures contained within the skin include:

• Hair follicle.
• Hair.
• Apocrine and eccrine sudoriferous (sweat) glands.
• Exocrine glands.
• Blood and lymph supply.
• Nerve endings.
• Sebaceous glands.

The thickness of the skin varies from one part of the body to another,
being thickest on the soles of the feet and palms of the hands and
thinnest on the lips.

The epidermis
The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin and consists of
flattened, keratinized cells that shed, or desquamate, on a regular
basis. The speed of desquamation depends on a number of factors:

• Faster in young skin – slower as we age.

• Smoking.
• Exposure to the elements, such as wind, extremes of temperature,
central heating.
• Skin care routine.
• Health of the individual.
Figure 1.1 Cross-section of the skin

The epidermis is non-vascular and consists of five layers:

• Stratum corneum – horny layer.

• Stratum lucidum – clear layer.
• Stratum granulosum – granular layer.
• Stratum spinosum – prickle cell layer.
• Stratum germinativum – basal cell layer.

Stratum corneum
This layer is also known as the horny layer and forms the outer layer
of the skin. It consists of flattened, horny, hard, keratinized cells
without a nucleus. These outer cells are constantly being shed and
replaced from the lower layers. Air gaps found between cells in this
layer make it a poor conductor of heat and light.

Stratum lucidum
This layer, which is present only in the palms of the hand and soles
of the feet, consists of flattened, closely packed cells. Traces of
flattened nuclei may be found. The cells are transparent, which
allows the passage of light to the deeper layers.

Figure 1.2 Layers of the skin

Figure 1.3 Appendages of the skin

Stratum granulosum
This is the third layer of the epidermis, and consists of granular cells.
The granules contain keratohyaline, which is an intermediate
substance in the formation of keratin. Nuclei and other cell contents
begin to disappear. (The granules consist of a substance called
eleidin which is the intermediate substance in the formation of horn:
Gray's Anatomy, page 1138.)

Stratum spinosum
This layer is often referred to as the prickle cell layer (or the stratum
aculeatum) and is situated immediately under the stratum
granulosum. The cells are covered with numerous fibrils that connect
the surfaces of the cells. These cells are known as prickle cells.
Between the cells are fine intercellular clefts that allow the passage
of lymph corpuscles. Pigment granules may be found here. Cells
have flattened slightly.

Stratum germinativum
This is the deepest layer of the epidermis and is known as the basal
cell layer. This layer, together with the stratum spinosum, is known
as the Malpighian layer or stratum malpighii. The germinativum is
closely moulded onto the papillary layer of the dermis below. The
cells are keratinocytes, contain nuclei and are capable of cell
division. They are larger than cells in the upper layers and are
columnar in shape. The contents are soft, opaque and granular.
Cells contain melanocytes which are responsible for producing
melanin. The basal cell layer surrounds the hair shaft and bulb.

The dermis
The dermis, also known as the corium or cutis vera, is situated
immediately below the epidermis. Blood vessels, lymph vessels and
nerve endings together with collagen and elastin are contained
within the dermis. The dermis forms the bulk of the skin and consists
of two parts: the papillary and reticular layers.

The papillary layer

This is situated on the free surface of the reticular layer and consists
of a number of small, highly sensitive projections known as papillae.
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