Fabric: A Fabric may be defined as a planar assembly of fibre, yarns or combination of

these by various manufacturing process.

Cloth: Cloth is sometimes used interchangeably with fabric, but it often refers to a
finished piece of fabric designed for a specific purpose.

All woven fabrics are made up of at least two distinct sets of threads, known as warp
and weft. Length wise direction of threads are known as “Warp yarns” which are
parallel with selvedge, also named as “Ends”. Another set of threads, called “Weft
yarns”, runs at right angles to the warp yarns and is also known as “Picks” or “Filler”.
These threads are interlaced with one another according to the type of weave or design.

Weaving: Weaving is the process of interlacement of warp and weft yarns according to
a specific plan for constructing a fabric.

Weave: The pattern of interlacement of yarns in a woven fabric is known as weave.

Loom: A loom is a machine which produces the fabric by interlacement of two sets of
threads, namely warp and weft threads.

Repeat: The pattern or repeat is the smallest unit of the weave which when repeated
will produce the design required in fabric.
Repeat No.: It indicates the number of warp and weft yarns in the repeat.
▪Formula No.: Any structure or interlacement represent as a small
fraction is known as Formula Number.

▪Interlacement Ratio: The interlacing ratio of a fabric is the ratio between the
actual number of interlacing fields and the maximum number of interlacing fields.
The degree of interlacing is the interlacing ratio expressed in percentage.
▪Texture: A term referring to the appearance or hand of a fabric and especially such features as
structure coarseness, openness. This signifies the general quality of fabric, developed by the
interlacement of yarn used weight, bulk, how it feels when handled etc. are also express by the
term texture materials, count of the yarns relative density of threads are its main factors.

Woven Fabric Specification

EPI × PPI
× Fabric Width
Warp Count × Weft Count

Or,
Warp Count × Weft Count
× Fabric Width
EPI × PPI
Warp Density (ENDS PER INCH):
Proper selection of reed count provides perfect EPI as per the design.
Example: 2000 warp ends across a 50 inch width, EPI will be 2000/50= 40.
Weft Density (PICKS PER INCH) :
Example: 1500 wft picks over 75 inches of fabric, PPI will be 1500/75= 20
Fabric weight (GSM):
For a fabric weighing 300 g with dimension (L 1.5 mtr × W 1.2 mtr). GSM will be 300/ (1.5 × 1.2)=166.67
Cloth Cover Factor
Example: If the yarns occupy 0.06 m2 on a 1 m2 fabric. Cover factor= (0.06/1) × 100= 6%.
Warp weight calculation to weave a cloth
Example: For 1000 ends, fabric length of 50 mtr, and yarn linear density 0.0005kg/m.
Warp requirement= 1000 × 50 × 0.0005= 25 kg
Pick Spacing:
For 20 PPI, Pick Spacing= 1/20= 0.05 inches
Loom Production Calculation
Fabric length per minute = Loom speed/ Picks per meter production..
Production = Fabric Length × Fabric Width
Loom Efficiency
Efficiency % = (Actual Production/ theoriticl production) × 100
Utilization Factor & Waste
Utilization (%)= Effective Time/ Total Time) × 100
Yarn Waste%= (Waste Yarn Weight/ Total Yarn Weight) × 100
Beat Up distance = Reed Travel per pick/ Picks per minute
Reed Count
EPI
Reed Count =
1+ Weft Crimp %
Reed Width= Cloth Width × 100+ Weft Crimp%
100
Warp Length – Cloth Length
Warp Crimp% = × 100
Cloth Length
Weft Length – Cloth Length
Weft Crimp % = × 100
Cloth Length
Threads requirement to weave cloth
Warp weight in gms/ mtr = Total ends × 1.0936 × 453.59 × crimp%
× waste percentage
840 × count
Weft Weight in gms/ mtrs = Reed spacing in inches × 453.39 × PPI × Crimp % Waste %

Cloth length in mtrs Weft wt in kgs. × weft count × 1848 × 0.9144

=
with the given weft weight PPI × Reed space in inches

Cloth weight in GSM = [ EPI PPI ] × 25.6

Warp Count + Weft Count
Total no. Of ends into the fabric= EPI × Fabric width (inches)
Reed Count= Total No. Of ends/ reed width (inches)
Reed ensures the equal space between every warp ends in the fabric

Reed Count = The Number of dents in specific length of a reed. It determines the spacing of
warp threads.
❖ Higher reed count leads to a denser fabric with more warp ends per unit area.
Following 2 tables are useful for reed count in weaving.
First one, A system based on the number of dents in a given space.
Name of system Basis of numbering
Stockport Number of dents per 2 inches
Radcliff Number of dents per 1 inches
Huddersfield Number of dents per 1 inch
Metric Number of dents per 1 decm.
Second table, The system based on the number of groups in a given space
Number of System Basis of Numbering
Bolton 20 dents per 24.5 inches
Bradford 20 dents per 36 inches
Blackburn 20 dents per 45 inches
Irish 100 dents per 40 inches
Leeds 19 dents per 9 inches
Macclesfield 100 dents per 36 inches
Example No. 1 Find out the count of 10s Irish reed into the Huddersfield system
As per Irish, 100 dents per 40 inches,
So, 10 Irish means, 10 × 100 =25 dents per inch
40
Now, 1 Huddersfield = 1 dent per inch, so, 10 Irish =25 Huddersfield.

Example No. 2 Find the Number of ends per inch in a reed of 3/108 Bradford
As per Bradford, 20 dents per 36 inches.
108 Bradford,
108 ×20 , 60 EPI 3 ends per dent, so, EPI will be 60 × 3 =180
36

Heald Count
The no. Of heald eyes per inch across the healds in a set expresses the count of the healds.
When a set contains 4 shafts, it is called a plain set.
Example Find the count of the healds that will be required for weaving a 6 shaft satin fabric
using 72 s stockport reed. Drawn 3 ends per dent.
Stockport system means, No. Of dents per 2 inches.
72 s stockport means, 72 dents per 2 inches, 3 × 72
Now, No. Of ends per inch in the reed, = = 108 ends (3 ends drawn per dent)
2
6 Heald shaft is there, 108
So, no. heald eyes per shaft per inch= = 18 healds per inch .
6
So, For plain set =18 4= 72, thus we require 6 healds of 72 plain set.
GSM (grams per square meter)

(EPI × 39.37 × 0.59) × (100 +Crimp)

Warp weight (gram) / square meter in fabric=
Warp Count (Ne) × 100
PPI × 39.37 × 0.59) × (100 + crimp)
Weft weight (gram)/ square meter in fabric=
Weft Count (Ne) × 100
GSM of Cloth/ Fabric = Warp weight/ square meter + weft weight / square meter

Weight of 1 square meter fabric in gram is known as GSM.

EPI × PPI
Fabric Specification: Fabric Width “ ×
Warp Count × Weft Count

❖Find out the original length and weight of warp yarn from fabric length
100 + Crimp %
Length of each end in meter = Total length of fabric in meter ×
100
Total length of all warp yarn in meter, for producing the cloth,
= total no. Of ends × total length of each end in mtr.

Total length of all warp yarn in meter × 1.1

Total Weight of warp threads in kgs =
840 × warp yarn count (Ne) × 2.205
❖ Find out the original length and weight of warp yarn from fabric length
Total Length of all weft yarn in meter × 1.1
Weight of all weft yarns in Kgs,=
840 × weft yarn count (Ne) × 2.205

Total No. Of picks in a fabric = PPI × Length of fabric in meter × 39.37

Total length of all weft yarn in meter= Total [Link] picks × fabric width in mtr100
× + weft crimp %
100
• Selvedges refer to the edges on both
sides of the woven fabric along its
length.
Selvedges
• Generally, selvedges are more stronger
and thicker than the rest of the fabric.

• The warp yarns in the selvedge are

placed more closely together, resulting
in a denser construction compared to the
rest of the fabric.

Function of selvedges
Type of Selvedges
The function of selvedges is to secure the outer
1. Plain Selvedges threads of the fabric, preventing them from fraying.
2. Tape Selvedges
3. Split Selvedges To prevent weft contraction of fabric.
4. Fused Selvedges
5. Leno Selveges To provide extra strength at the edges of the fabric s
6. Tucked-in Selvedges o that they canwithstand the tensile & gripping
forces during transportation through machines.
1. Plain Selvedges
Plain selvedges are constructed by using plain weaves with the same specification of yarns as the
rest of the fabric, but the threads are packed more tightly.

Weft Threads count, diameter, thickness, twist

for both warp and weft and selvedges

Plain Selvedge
Warp and rest of the part

Plain Selvedges or
Without Conventional Selvedges
selvedge part of
fabric
Selvedge warp ends are thicker than normal
warp ends or it can be ply yarns. And it is
constructed with basket weave.
2. Tape Selvedges:
❑ This type of selvedge is
constructed with plain, basket or

Selvedge
twill weave.
❑ This type of selvedge makes a

Tape
flatter edge and it is made of
heavier end yarns or ply yarns,
which provides greater strength.
3. Split Selvedge
These are created by weaving a narrow fabric
that is twice the usual width, with two
selvedges in the middle.
The fabric is then cut between the selvedges,
and the cut edges are finished with a chain
stitch or hemming.
Split selvedges are commonly used when items
like towels are woven side by side and later
separated after weaving.

4. Fused Selvedges

These selvedges are created on fabrics made of

thermoplastic fibers, such as polypropylene,
nylon, and others, by applying a hot
mechanical element to the fabric edges. The
fibers melt and bond together, effectively
sealing the edges.
[Link] Selvedges
The leno selvedges are created by binding the weft
threads with strong supplementary threads woven in a
leno or gauze pattern, and by cutting off the exposed
weft ends. Fabrics made with half cross-leno weave
exhibit exceptional resistance to shear. These fabrics
are produced using specialized leno weaving
harnesses. The leno selvedge is employed on certain
shuttle-less looms.

6. Tucked-In Selvedges
The tucked selvedge is a method
employed on certain shuttle-less looms. A
device is used to tuck and secure the cut
ends into the fabric edge. In a tucked-in
selvedge, the fringed edges of the weft
yarns are woven back into the fabric body
using a special tuck-in mechanism. This
process results in a doubled weft density in
the selvedge area. While the tucked-in
selvedge was originally used only for
projectile weaving machines, it is now also
Tucked In Selvedges applied to other shuttle-less weaving
machines.