Race and Software
Race and Software
000616
Journal of
Textile Science & Fashion Technology
Review Article Copyright © All rights are reserved by Sara Cavagnero and Luca Lazzarini
*Corresponding author: Sara Cavagnero, Department of Business and Law, Received Date: February 25, 2020
Northumbria University, UK Published Date: June 01, 2020
Abstract
The textile and food industries seem worlds apart. One is focused on trend-setting and design, the other on growing, processing, manufacturing
and distributing food, from the farm to retail shops and restaurants. For a long time, synergies and trade-offs between these sectors have been
overlooked. More recently, however, the two industries came together to tackle common challenges, unleashing innovative and sustainable solutions.
Through a theoretical and empirical analysis, this paper investigates emerging methods of treating food waste and by-products to produce
fibres, arguing that cross-industry collaboration can lead to regenerative impacts for the benefit of nature, society, and economy. Orange Fibre,
Piñatex, S. Café are among the case studies scrutinised to illustrate the advantages related to edible innovations. Turning waste into a resource is
essential to increase efficiency and close the loop in a circular economy, improve waste management practices, and limit the use of landfilling, in
line with the EU Framework Directive on waste and SDG 12.3. Furthermore, recycled and innovative fibres do not require any extra farmland, water,
fertilisers or pesticides to be produced.
Fostering cross-industry collaboration, pursuant to SDG 17, can also serve as a source of brand differentiation. As more-sustainable solutions
seem increasingly attractive for a growing customer base, partnerships may open up new opportunities for business, despite the pressures of
resource scarcity.
Introduction
pace with the ambitions of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals
The world is currently implementing the Agenda 2030 adopted
(SDGs), and no country is on track to meet all the targets by 2030
by the UN in 2015 (United Nations, 2015). With unprecedented
in terms of financial resources and political support [1]. In addition,
resources constraints and just 10 years left to the 2030 deadline,
the growing pressure on the planetary boundaries, as defined
the achievement of the SDGs requires immediate and accelerated
by the Stockholm Resilience Center, is generating continuing
actions, as well as collaborative partnerships among stakeholders
deterioration of the biophysical environment – threatening large-
at all levels to go beyond a business as usual scenario. The ways
scale ecosystems collapse [2,3].
societies – at individual, corporate, national, and international
levels – translate this global blueprint into actions vary among the Globally, millions of workers, communities, and businesses are
world’s regions, but it appears that there are still major challenges involved directly and indirectly in the complex and fragmented
to be faced. Indeed, the rate of global progress is not keeping food and apparel value chains. Albeit being considered as worlds
apart, garments and food share many similarities: they are both
This work is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License JTSFT.MS.ID.000616. Page 1 of 9
Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 5-Issue 4
commodity products, which have origins in agricultural systems - characterizes both sectors [7,8].
food in an almost total way, while natural fibers make up 27% of
Acting upon the sectors’ vast sustainability challenges and
the global supply [4]. Apparel and food are typically manufactured
risks in a concerted manner would contribute to the achievement
from little valued and indiscriminately sourced raw materials
of several SDGs, such as ending poverty, adapting to climate
involving hard labour at the beginning of the supply chain, and
change and fostering inclusive growth. The table in Figure 1 aims
intensive commercialization at the end [5]. The price of both food
at highlighting the linkages and trade-offs of acting towards the
and clothing has reduced over the last twenty years, while the
achievement of nine SDGs, where the industries have the most
purchased volume has increased [6]. Over-consumption, as well
direct social and environmental footprint. Partnership is a cross
as linear models for producing, distributing, and disposing goods
cutting issue across these clusters.
Figure 1: Overview of the main impacts of the food and fashion industries, in relation to the SDGs.
Citation: Sara Cavagnero, Luca Lazzarini. From The Trash to High Couture: How Wearable Food Waste is Transforming the Page 2 of 9
Textile Industry In Line with the Agenda 2030. J Textile Sci & Fashion Tech. 5(4): 2020. JTSFT.MS.ID.000616. DOI: 10.33552/
JTSFT.2020.05.000616.
Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 5-Issue 4
For the sake of clarity, it is relevant to notice that although the and fibre) and so on. It thus encompasses political, economic, social
terms are often used as synonyms, the fashion and textile industry and environmental dimensions.
do not coincide. The latter commonly concerns the production
In this regard, the textile and fashion sector seem to lag
of yarn, textiles and fabrics, while the former (also referred to
behind, as the “cradle-to-grave” impact of a product is not being
as the garment or apparel industry) relates to the production of
comprehensively evaluated yet. Life Cycle Assessment (LCA), a
clothing. The textile sector also includes household and technical/
globally accepted and product-oriented method for analysing
industrial textiles, while the fashion industry encompasses shoes,
environmental impacts of a good’s entire life cycle, including
bags, jewellery and other accessories [9,10]. Such considerations
raw material extraction and processing, product manufacture,
are relevant to bear in mind when examining data, as it is often
distribution, use, disposal and recycling [13], is being implemented
difficult to distinguish the garment and textile sectors within their
only by a few brands, notably by the Kering Group through the
complex, multi-layered and fragmented supply chains, although the
Environmental Profit and Loss (EP&L) or by Reformation’s RefScale.
second is broader and includes - among the others - home ware and
When it comes to social issues, comprehensive evaluations are
bedding [11]. Another important consideration is that estimates
even less widespread. The closest tool to LCA is the Social Life
are inconsistent, as no standard method for calculations of either
Cycle Assessment (S-LCA), which is quite problematic in terms
the environmental or social impact has been accepted in the
of data collection [14]. Indeed, regardless S-LCA’s quantitative
industry. However, for sustainability assessment to be successful,
nature, some social issues like health and well-being are difficult
reliable, timely and granular data are needed to emphasise where
to measure against given benchmarks and many indicators depict
the industry is making progress and where it is falling behind.
circumstances related to the manufacturing facilities rather than
System Thinking: Leveraging Interactions Between the the product itself, which producers are much more hesitant to
Food and Textile Industries reveal.
Under pressure from investors, employees, civil society, All in all, the adoption of a systemic approach appears a
consumers, and other stakeholders to become more sustainable, challenging but highly desirable outcome to shed light on non-
the two sectors are starting to recognize the business opportunities linear processes in the textile and fashion industry, and on possible
inherent in cross-industry collaboration, in line with SDG 17. trade-offs between activities and policy objectives. Systemic
However, finding efficient and effective means of addressing thinking also broadens the perspective when seeking solutions for
negative externalities while taking advantage of synergies will the root causes of problems such as labour and natural resources
require the implementation of a systematic and holistic approach. exploitation, acknowledging interactions not only within the
industry but also across different sectors, ultimately linking with,
This is already partially happening in the agricultural and food
and integrating into, innovative and more sustainable value chains.
sector with a progressive shift towards a food system approach: in
2017 the Committee on World Food Security (CFS) embarked on Addressing Common Challenges to Secure Long-Term
a multi-stakeholder policy convergence process which will lead Sustainable Outcomes
to the development of Voluntary Guidelines on Food Systems and
Implementing collaborative programs based on a systemic
Nutrition. Well-known methods like the value chain development
thinking approach enables companies to make significant progress
and the market systems approach are deemed to be, in certain
in a relatively short amount of time. Benefitting from key learning’s,
instances, too narrow. The former evaluates how value is generated
expertise, and best practices generated by frontrunners, companies
and secured not only by producers, but also by other stakeholders -
can enhance their performance in environmental as well as social
i.e. workers, governments and consumers - with a view to improve
areas, while generating proof-points supporting the business case
the value chain efficiency through systemic analysis and integrated
for sustainability.
interventions. Nonetheless, this approach focuses on one particular
commodity, often neglecting the synergies and trade-offs with In the fashion industry, there is a strong push to make every
other food value chains. Similarly, the market systems approach phase of production more sustainable. In particular, following
considers market linkages to address constraints affecting multiple alarming warnings concerning rising costs of materials as well as
value chains but it is usually limited to one market [12]. The food increased consumer demand for more sustainable products, major
system approach is instead a wider concept and takes into account maisons, companies in the mid-price segment and, lately, even fast
all the subsystems - e.g. input supply, farming, waste management, fashion brands, are adjusting their business models and investing
etc. - of a given food system as well as their interactions with other in innovation [15]. Thanks to the increased visibility connected to
key systems - e.g. energy, trade, health, etc. Food systems also add their own sustainability performance, companies have started to
an overall societal and environmental perspective by considering take specific actions targeting their input materials, and finding
crucial subjects as food security, health, nutrition, employment, less resource-intensive fabrics is now considered as a priority [16].
research, education, protection of the natural environmental, trade- The harvesting and sourcing of natural and synthetic fibers,
offs between the multiple objectives of agriculture (food, feed, fuel as well as their processing, are responsible for a large share of
Citation: Sara Cavagnero, Luca Lazzarini. From The Trash to High Couture: How Wearable Food Waste is Transforming the Page 3 of 9
Textile Industry In Line with the Agenda 2030. J Textile Sci & Fashion Tech. 5(4): 2020. JTSFT.MS.ID.000616. DOI: 10.33552/
JTSFT.2020.05.000616.
Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 5-Issue 4
textiles’ environmental footprint [17] and consume considerable production and pre-harvest up to the consumer stage, on
amounts of resources that are also at the core of agricultural multiple levels and as a result of heterogeneous causes that vary
activities. Cellulose-based or plant-based fibers, such as cotton, significantly among world’s countries. What is important to point
viscose, and lyocell, account for a third of all textile fibers. Despite out in this context is that FLW entail negative effects on each pillar
being renewable, biodegradable, and mechanically recyclable, such of sustainable development - economic, environmental and social
fibres consume large amounts of water and chemicals, especially - at the micro (i.e. individual household or enterprise), meso (i.e.
conventional cotton farming and processing [18,19]. Animal fibers, production chain) and macro (i.e. society) levels. From an economic
such as leather, wool, or silk, entail both ethical issues as well as perspective, FLW is considered by FAO as a global economic
significant environmental footprint. On the one hand, brands are negative externality [27] and the associated direct economic costs
confronted with an increasing number of customers demanding are estimated around 1 trillion USD. If externalities, social and
guarantees for animal welfare. On the other hand, animal fibers are environmental costs are further weighed, another 1.6 billion USD
directly linked to degradation of fertile land, decline in biodiversity would have to be added to the figure [28]. Moreover, FLW, as an
due to livestock overgrazing and overstocking, and high release of expression of the inefficiency of food systems, results in higher food
methane [20]. Synthetic fibers, such as polyester (over half of the prices for consumers as well as in less effective programming and
total textile fiber production), nylon, and acrylic, require less water investment - both public and private (e.g. to enhance agricultural
and land than cellulose fibers and are more durable. However, their production, a key element for poverty reduction in developing
production depends on oil feedstock and is very energy-intensive countries).
[21]. In addition, these fibers are not biodegradable and heavily
In relation to the environmental impacts of FLW, the first
pollutant. It is estimated that approximately half a million tonnes of
aspect to be considered is the ineffective use of scarce resources
plastic microfibers shed during the washing of plastic-based textiles
- such as land and water - as well as all inputs that are required to
end up in the ocean every year. One load of laundry of polyester
produce the food that is lost or wasted. Additionally, the footprints
clothes can discharge 700.000 micro plastic, which release toxins
of transport, packaging, processing, distribution and preparation at
into the environment and can end up in human food chain [22].
home eventually sum to the aforementioned dissipation, depending
At the same time, a stark contrast currently exists in the on which stage of the food chain FLW happen: that is why a foodstuff
global food system. According to FAO [23] nearly 821 million wasted at the consumer stage will entail a greater environmental
people were undernourished – i.e. facing chronic food deprivation impact than if the same foodstuff is loss during, for example, the
– in 2017, and for the third year in a row, global hunger is rising harvest. Finally, another negative effect on the environment occurs
instead of decreasing. Moreover, FAO, IFAD and WFP [24] consider during the waste disposal phase through methane emissions that
that in a ‘business as usual’ scenario 637 million people will be lead to a significant carbon footprint: it is estimated that globally
undernourished in low- and middle-income countries by 2030: FLW is responsible for 6 up to 10% of anthropogenic greenhouse
a figure that significantly exceeds previous projections and that, gas emissions [29], contributing considerably to climate change.
according to the same report, would entail not fulfilling the SDG 2
FLW negatively affects societies. Greenhouse gases emissions,
target of eradicating hunger by the same year. Yet, there is sufficient
resource depletion and pollution from agriculture potentially
capacity in the world to produce enough food to feed everyone
translate into health costs - born both at the individual and societal
adequately. Moreover, every year, about 670 million tonnes of food
levels. As previously mentioned 80% of the world’s poorest live in
are lost or wasted in high-income countries, and 630 million tonnes
rural areas and rely on agricultural activities for income generation
in low- and middle-income countries – a total of 1.3 billion tonnes,
[30]: it is therefore worth noting that environmental degradation
or one-third of the edible food originally intended for human
is extremely interlinked with poverty as the rural poor are more
consumption [25].
dependent on natural resources as well as more exposed to
Different definitions are being, and have been used to describe environmental threats and degradation. More broadly, FLW also
food loss and waste (FLW). As a result, in 2014 the Food and increase food security risks, loss of livelihoods, likelihood of civil
Agriculture Organization (FAO) of the United Nations proposed a conflict and increases crime due to resource depletion, or loss of
common definition within the “Global Initiative on Food Loss and well-being and societal value due to loss of habitat and landscape
Waste Reduction”. Food loss is defined as the “decrease in quantity amenities or species extinction with related existence value losses.
or quality of food”, whereas food waste is a sub-component of food Developing countries are typically characterised by a high volume
loss and refers “to the removal from the food supply chain of food of food losses - e.g. due to limited financial, managerial and technical
which is fit for consumption, by choice, or which has been left to capacities, poor infrastructure or inadequate storage facilities. This
spoil or expire as a result of negligence by the actor – predominantly, has a direct, negative impact on labour productivity and therefore
but not exclusively the final consumer at household level” [26]. on wages which, in turn, might diminish consumption levels -
whose increase is instead a crucial factor for rural development and
FLW take place all along the food chain, ranging from the
ultimately for poverty reduction.
Citation: Sara Cavagnero, Luca Lazzarini. From The Trash to High Couture: How Wearable Food Waste is Transforming the Page 4 of 9
Textile Industry In Line with the Agenda 2030. J Textile Sci & Fashion Tech. 5(4): 2020. JTSFT.MS.ID.000616. DOI: 10.33552/
JTSFT.2020.05.000616.
Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 5-Issue 4
Against this backdrop, a decrease in FLW would generate outputs with different economic values, environmental and social
positive impacts on the aforementioned pillars. Nevertheless, it is impacts. The waste/non-waste status is crucial to the exploitation
important to point out that the ideal balance for sustainability is not of the material concerned as well as for the enactment of the strict
zero food loss and waste, as beyond a certain point, the additional norms regulating waste management, disposal, transportation,
costs to further reduce or totally eliminate FLW might overtake treatment, and end-of-waste process – which, in turn, impact on
the economic, social and environmental benefits generated by the costs.
reduction. The first key message within the context of this paper
The by-products category was first introduced by Waste
is that FLW must be substantially reduced; the second is that the
Framework Directive in 2008, according to a waste prevention
residual FLW - result of the ideal point of equilibrium between
approach. Article 5 provides for a definition of by-products and the
costs and benefits - can be further used as a resource in circular
main conditions which must be cumulatively met by a substance or
economy models.
object to be classified as such, namely:
From Linear to Circular Economy
a. Further use of the substance or object is certain;
In a business-as-usual scenario, both the food and textile
b. The substance or object can be used directly without any
industries will have to deal with scarcity and depletion of key
further processing other than normal industrial practice;
resources, as the current production and consumption patterns
cannot be sustained on the long term. As a consequence, there is a c. The substance or object is produced as an integral part of
compelling need to move away from the linear “take-make-dispose” a production process; and
system and shift to a circular approach focused on greater recycling, d. Further use is lawful, i.e. the substance or object fulfils
restorative, and transformative strategies. What is considered as all relevant product, environmental and health protection
a waste in a linear model becomes a resource in the context of a requirements for the specific use and will not lead to overall
circular economy. Therefore, the loop is closed, ensuring that all adverse environmental or human health impacts
resources are used as efficiently as possible.
In recent jurisprudence, (Palin Granit and following cases)
In the last years, brands, investors, industry initiatives, and the ECJ has further elaborated on such definition and set out a
policy makers have shown a growing interest in circular economy three-part test that a production residue must meet in order to be
models. In 2015, the European Union adopted the Circular considered as a by-product. The court stated that where the further
Economy Action Plan, establishing a set of actions to facilitate and use of the material was not a mere possibility but a certainty,
promote the transition to a system “where the value of products, without any further processing prior to reuse and as part of a
materials and resources is maintained in the economy for as long as continuing process of production, then the material would not be a
possible, and the generation of waste minimised”. To better reflect waste. These requirements are cumulative – all three must be met.
the Union’s ambition to move to a circular economy, reduce the EU’s In addition to this test, the ECJ has noted that the use for which the
dependence on the import of raw materials, promote a prudent, by-product is destined must also be lawful - in other words that
efficient and rational use of natural resources, a revised legislative the by-product is not something that the manufacturer is obliged
framework on waste entered into force in July 2018, amending the to discard or for which the intended use is forbidden under EU or
European Waste Framework Directive [31] (2008/98/EC). The national law (EU Commission, by-products).
main aim of the new piece of legislation is to ensure that valuable
material embedded in waste is effectively re-used, recycled and re- The consequences of such a qualification can vary from sector
injected into the European economy. In addition, the Directive [32] to sector: in general terms, an incorrect classification could be the
(EU) 2018/850 on the landfill of waste requires Member States to cause of environmental damage or unnecessary costs for business.
reduce the share of municipal waste landfilled to 10% by 2035, and Although for food and drinks the distinction between waste
the Directive [33] (EU) 2018/852 on packaging waste introduces and non-waste products must be drawn strictly in order to ensure
targets for the recycling 60% of all packaging by 2025 and 70% food safety, promoting a legislative environment prioritising the
by 2030. Food waste prevention and reduction are specifically classification of substances as products and not as waste should
included among the priority areas of the Circular Economy Action help to allow more materials to remain product or be classified as
Plan. In addition, the new Framework Directive (EU) 2018/851 on by-product and thereby protect their value.
waste, in line with the Goal 12.3 of the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable
As operators of the agri-food and fashion sectors are keen
Development, sets an indicative Union-wide food waste reduction
on identifying new business opportunities and on ensuring an
target of 30% by 2025 and 50% by 2030.
efficient use of resources, industrial biotechnology does already
Against this background, in order to support informed decisions offer effective strategies and tools for keeping such resources in the
for more sustainable restorative strategies, it is relevant to recall system, including the sourcing of synthetic fibres from by-products
the distinction between waste and by-products. Indeed, industrial and waste of the food industry. However, despite relevant advances,
production processes are often complex and can generate several
Citation: Sara Cavagnero, Luca Lazzarini. From The Trash to High Couture: How Wearable Food Waste is Transforming the Page 5 of 9
Textile Industry In Line with the Agenda 2030. J Textile Sci & Fashion Tech. 5(4): 2020. JTSFT.MS.ID.000616. DOI: 10.33552/
JTSFT.2020.05.000616.
Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 5-Issue 4
the potential of food waste and by-products to create new business seen by customers as an add-on, and addressed the main barriers
opportunities, as well as the following the extraction of valuable preventing them from purchasing sustainable fashion: lack of
compounds still seems under-estimated by the new EU framework knowledge and visibility of new materials, the high price attached
[34]. to “green” garments and limited style [38].
Clarifying the abovementioned rules would further facilitate It becomes clear, thus, that focusing on the ethical and
cross-industrial synergies, following systemic life cycle thinking. sustainable mix of core values is a good starting point, but it is not
In addition, consistent policy implementation in EU Member States enough, as other drivers are needed. One of these is undoubtedly
needs to be ensured, especially regarding the “waste” or “non- functionality, which is the main asset of S.Café, a yarn created by
waste” status given to some products, as different regulations combining coffee grounds with polyester obtained from discarded
hamper the realisation of the circular economy in the European plastic bottles and patented by the Taiwanese company Singtex
internal market. Consistency between all policies ensuring an [39-50]. The resulting material – which can already be found in
integrated approach, regular updates to keep up with technical a number of products from leading fashion companies – is multi-
progress should therefore be reached to further boost the circular functional and can be suitable for a variety of uses, from outdoor
economy. and sportswear to household items. The coffee grounds used
to create the yarn are recycled from some of the world’s largest
Edible Innovations: Today’s Trash, Tomorrow’s Treasure
coffee vendors, like Starbucks, as well as from local coffee shops. In
With fashion brands seeking more sustainable innovations and addition, garments made from S.Café can also be composted at the
bio-materials, it is no wonder that envisioning a new life for food end of their life, giving them a circular lifecycle.
waste as a resource for the apparel sector appears as a promising
Other small-scale initiatives using advanced technologies
opportunity for both industries. This kind of recycling is not strictly
can be an important launching pad for experimentation. A recent
speaking “closing the loop”, within the boundaries of the food
example is the use and valorisation of casein through a bio-recycling
industry, but is “open loop” recycling where, under the principles
system which relies on industrial, dairy and cosmetic low value
of industrial ecology, a waste stream from one activity becomes
by-product. Drawing from an Italian invention dating back to the
the source of materials for another [35]. The advantages are two-
‘30s, and with the support of research and innovation, Duedilatte
folded: on the one hand, turning trash into a resource solves the
started to produce a new fibre characterized by moisturizing
waste disposal problem, improves waste management practices,
properties which ensure skin protection and hydration. Its original
and increases resource efficiency, limiting the use of landfilling.
value proposition lies in transforming milk waste in a lever for well-
On the other hand, recycled and innovative fibres do not require
being, while capitalizing on the adoption of natural ingredients and
any extra farmland, water, fertilisers or pesticides to produce. In
innovative bio-production processes. The product, thus, targets a
addition, involvement in sustainability initiatives can serve as a real
new consumer segment looking for a healthy and natural goods,
source of brand differentiation: from new product development
particularly suitable for new-born [51-70].
to innovative campaigns, more-sustainable solutions seem
increasingly attractive for a growing customer base, and especially Another case is that of Blue Fashion, which illustrates the
among Millennial [36]. combined use of drivers such as up cycling, local sourcing,
community collaboration, and artisan crafts. The business
Many technologically sophisticated methods of treating food
model focuses on the use of fish skin, a by-product of the fishing
waste and by-products to produce fibres are already in commerce,
industry, to develop sustainable leather made from fish caught
with other waste-derived creations on the horizon. One of the most
in one of the poorest rural areas of the world, Lake Turkana.
prominent examples is represented by Orange Fiber, the first fabric
Kenya’s northernmost region can count on skilled “skinners”,
in the world made with cellulose extracted from the by-product
whose livelihood could be strengthened, while reducing waste and
of citrus juice production. Adding value to waste not only entails
offering sustainable alternatives to the fashion industry, though the
lower environmental footprints, but also generates an additional
innovative fish skin material [70-80]. Such potential was recognized
stream of income for rural communities. This is the case for Piñatex,
by FAO, which partnered with the Nordic Atlantic Cooperation and
an innovative leather-like material made from the pineapple leaf
the Commonwealth Fashion Council on a Blue Fashion show that
fibre by Ananas Anam, a by-product of the fruit industry which is
unveiled signature realized with Kenyan fish leather by African
traditionally discarded or burned [37].
fashion designers. Drawing from the locally sourced driver, huge
It is worth noting that even the world’s second biggest producer potential in Kenya and the neighbouring countries, offering higher
of disposable fashion products, H&M, relied on the abovementioned prices to the fishers and creates alternative local employment for
materials for its last Conscious Exclusive capsule. Despite the the community [81-90].
limited number of premium pieces, this collection has the merits
Conclusion
to showcase the increasing possibilities of mainstreaming
innovative fibres, through beautiful garments at affordable prices. So far, the relation between the textile and food industries has
The fast fashion brand built upon the fact that sustainability is been pictured in negative terms, with a strong focus on trade-offs
Citation: Sara Cavagnero, Luca Lazzarini. From The Trash to High Couture: How Wearable Food Waste is Transforming the Page 6 of 9
Textile Industry In Line with the Agenda 2030. J Textile Sci & Fashion Tech. 5(4): 2020. JTSFT.MS.ID.000616. DOI: 10.33552/
JTSFT.2020.05.000616.
Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 5-Issue 4
rather than positive interactions. Quite the contrary, more recent of information, paradoxically, the society simultaneously suffers
developments show that cross-industry collaboration can lead to from a scarcity of “smart” data, i.e. information that is traceable
regenerative impacts, originally recombining different approaches, and therefore reliable, trust-worthy, and ultimately verifiable. The
resources, and competencies with synergic effects. As provided for potential of new technologies such as Internet of Things (IoT),
by SDG 17, a successful sustainable development agenda requires Blockchain, 3D manufacturing as well as Artificial Intelligence
partnerships built upon principles and values, a shared vision and – embodied in smart labels or apps - should further be explored
goals that place people and the planet at the centre. The joint efforts to facilitate increased transparency of the production chain and
outlined above are moving in this direction, and seem particularly traceability of materials.
encouraging given that the textile and food industries are tackling
In light of the above, it becomes clear that taking innovations
similar challenges in a number of impact areas along their value
global, fostering cross-industry collaboration and encouraging
chains, from raw material production to end-of-life disposal [91-
supporting regulatory action may open up new – and more
100].
sustainable – opportunities for business, tackling the pressures
Within this process, main challenges still need to be addressed. of resource scarcity. Today’s scattered, and fragmented array of
initiatives, collaborative cross-industry approaches appear as
A stronger legislative commitment on optimisation and reuse
promising but consolidation is inevitable to focus time, energy and
of resources is needed, to allow new business models to emerge
money. The joint efforts of the food and fashion sectors an agenda
and to enhance the competitiveness of both the textile and agri-
for change, could drive the needed systemic change and work
food value chains, as well as resource savings. The drive to foster
jointly on disruptive innovation.
circular economy should also lead to a business environment where
sustainable production initiatives can be measured and compared Acknowledgement
to each other with the help of a harmonised methodology and up-
None.
to-date data [101].
Conflict of Interest
At the same time, research and innovation should be fostered
and encouraged, to boost the circular approach by generating new None.
ideas and by scaling up existing ones. This, in turn, will require
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